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Found 57 results

  1. Turkish Infantry 1915-1918 ICM 1:35 This set brings us four figures. Two troops running, with one kneeling firing his rifle, and one officer kneeling with his pistol out. In the period leading up to WWI the Ottoman Empire decided to modernise its Army, but did so by buying equipment in, instead of arranging for domestic suppliers to do this. A German Army mission was invited to advise on this, and surprisingly they favoured German Army weapons, and German manufacturers. The standard infantry front line rifle was the M1903 Mauser bolt-action rifle, and the side arm the Mauser C96. This set from ICM brings us two sprues of caramac coloured plastic one for the figures, and one for the equipment with a selection of the the M1903 with and without a bayonet. The C96 holstered, and out of the holster with the holster separate. Other items on the sprues are Helmets, Bayonets, ammunition pouches, water bottles, grenades, a map case, and even binoculars and their case. A box with two sets of the equipment is also available here from ICM. Conclusion This is a good set which provides for any WWI Turkish diorama, or even a small stand alone vignette. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  2. WWI Russian Maxim MG Team ICM 1:35 The set from ICM brings us a Maxim 1910 and a crew of two. 58 Maxims were purchased by the Imperial Russian Army in 1899 but then they contracted Vickers to make them in Russia. Even though the contract was signed in 1902 manufacturing only started in 1910. Due to these delays and the war with Japan in 1904 an additional 450 guns we purchased from overseas. The gun was supplied on a wheeled carriage. There is one sprue for the gun crew, two small sprues for the gun and carriage, and one sprue of Weapons & Equipment. This is one sprue from ICM 35672 WWI Russian Infantry Weapons and Equipment. Conclusion This is a good set which provides the gun and crew, it will make a nice little model/diorama in its own right, or can be used as part of a larger diorama. Its good to see ICM producing kits slightly out side the normal westen countries for WWI. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  3. Eduard's now OOP 1/48 Fokker E.V, built mostly OOB save for the gorgeous Master turned brass MG cooling jackets and barrels. Lovely little kit, although getting the wing straight & level was a PITA. Constructive criticism welcome! Cheers, Tony Bell
  4. WWI Turkish Infantry Weapons & Equipment ICM 1:35 In the period leading up to WWI the Ottoman Empire decided to modernise its Army, but did so by buying equipment in, instead of arranging for domestic suppliers to do this. A German Army mission was invited to advise on this, and surprisingly they favoured German Army weapons, and German manufacturers. The standard infantry front line rifle was the M1903 Mauser bolt-action rifle, and the side arm the Mauser C96. This set from ICM brings us two sprues of caramac coloured plastic with a selection of the the M1903 with and without a bayonet. The C96 holstered, and out of the holster with the holster separate. Other items on the sprues are Helmets, Bayonets, ammunition pouches, water bottles, grenades, a map case, and even binoculars and their case. Conclusion This is a good set which provides weapons and equipment for any WWI Turkish diorama, or even a German one given that most of the equipment is German. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  5. STEEL Seatbelts (Various) 1:48 & 1:72 Eduard Here's the latest batch of the newish STEEL seatbelts from Eduard. In case you don't already know, they are Photo-Etch (PE) steel, and because of their strength they can be etched from thinner material, which improves realism and flexibility in one sitting. Coupled with the new painting method that adds perceived extra depth to the buckles and other furniture by shading, they are more realistic looking and will drape better than regular brass PE. Seatbelts Italy WWII Fighters (FE826) Contains two sets of belts including the twin shoulder and single lap belt, with optional rear section. Seatbelts Italy WWII Fighters (SS594) in 1:72 Confusingly labelled as both 1:72 and 1:48 on the package, when in fact the 1:72 labelling is correct. This set contains three sets of belts including the twin shoulder and single lap belt, with optional rear section. Seatbelts France WWII (FE839) Three sets of four-point harnesses are included, with an optional central fifth point with buckle and alternate left lap strap minus the buckle found on the 4-point version. SE.5a Seatbelts Early (FE843) Two sets of belts for the famous WWI fighter, with diagrams showing where the laces attach on the airframe. Seatbelts Soviet Union WWII Fighters (FE846) Two sets each of Yakovlev and Lavochkin designed seatbelts for their respective fighters, each with four-point harness and buckles. Seatbelts France WWI (FE852) During WWI three types of belt were used up until 1916, with two of each type supplied. Two other types were used throughout the war, and again, two of each type are included, totalling 10 sets of belts, which is quite generous. You will need to supply the thin wire that connects the belt loops to the airframe, which is described in a scrap diagram in the instructions. Review sample courtesy of
  6. Eduard Fokker E.II

    I will join if I may. I have a couple of kits in the stash that qualify and having done some research I now know the difference between a rotary and a radial engine (yes I admit it I didn't know before but you live and learn). I am going to build the Eduard 1/48 WWI Fokker E.II. I should point out (a) I have never built a WWI plane before, (b) I have never done rigging on a plane before and (c) this looks quite fiddly. Fingers crossed. The kit. I understand its one of Eduard's older offerings but hopefully that doesn't mean problems. I will be building it OTB and have some E Z Line to try out for the rigging. The sprues. So far so good. And finally some photo etch and a very very small clear sprue. Thanks for looking. As always all comments very welcome. Cheers Dave
  7. Sopwith Pup - Airfix - 1/72

    Alright I'm in with a second build for this one, could be a risky proposition as quite often I don't finish one build in the time let alone two! I'm doing the old Airfix Sopwith Pup in 1/72. Picked it up for $5 on Ebay, only slightly more than the 99c price tag still on it. Lovely little kit, will be adding details, either scratch build or spares box. I would love Airfix to update this but not sure that would happen in the near future, HR do a very nice looking tool of the Pup in 1/72, it's little pricey and not very common on this side of the pond. Anyway, I have the warpaint book, Pheon decals set and the Wingnut Wings instruction sheet, one of the best references out there I think! Cheers
  8. Been enjoying watching the great builds in this GB and realised there's no plucky Tommies in the mix yet! So I'm going to jump in with a Sergeant, Royal Welsh Fusiliers, Ploegsteert 1915 by Tommy's War. I've made one of their figures before, for the Non-injected GB, and they are lovely, beautifully sculpted and molded. Not a huge amount to the construction, most of the work will be in the painting and I think I'll do a nice little base. Got some suitable reference material and am raring to go! Cheers Segan
  9. A nice simple little build with a fairly terrible kit! Full album here:
  10. SE.5a Upgrade Parts (for Eduard) 1:48 Eduard Eduard's new tool kit of this famous WWI fighter is a little beauty and you can see our review here, but you can always itail, or budget. As usual with Eduard's resin sets, they arrive in the familiar Brassin clamshell box, with the resin parts safely cocooned on dark grey foam inserts, and the instructions sandwiched between the two halves, doubling as the header card. The Photo-Etch (PE) set arrives in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. Two Blade Propeller (left 648296 Right 648297) Available in two flavours, spinning left and right, the clockwise rotating prop being applicable to the (at this time unkitted, although I believe the parts are in the box) Hispano-Suiza 8b engine, and the other for the Wolseley Viper engine variant. Pick your two-bladed prop and marvel at the detail, with a separate boss and spinner plate provided in PE. Left – Anti-Clockwise (648296) Right – Clockwise (648297) Radiator – Wolseley Viper (648298) This highly detailed resin replacement for the kit part consists of five resin parts and four PE parts, the former making up the body of the radiator, the latter providing the mesh detail for the panels for maximum detail. It is a straight-forward drop-in replacement for the kit part. SE.5a Guns (648299) Another drop-in replacement set for the kit, which consists of both the Lewis and the Vickers machine guns, plus the tripod mount for the cowling Vickers, and the over-wing mount for the Lewis gun, which also has two spare magazines of two different capacities. A small PE sheet includes a rack for a spare mag under the gun mount (over the instrument panel), the firing handle, sight and trough for the Vickers, plus blade sight for the Lewis gun. You will need two lengths of 0.2mm wire to complete the firing mechanism for the Lewis, which you will have to provide from your own stocks. SE.5a Stretchers (48915) This is the solitary PE set in this review, and at first the term "stretchers" might seem a bit obscure, but on reading the instructions it becomes clear. They are what I would call the turnbuckles that the aircraft's rigging is attached to, either in single runs, or doubles. As well as including three runs of thirty eight single loops, twenty seven of the double loops, there are also two templates provided to assist you in drilling the twin 0.3mm holes at the wing roots and the opposite ends under the upper wing. Turnbuckles are a handy short-cut for rigging, allowing the modeller to glue their chosen rigging material of choice in place without having to repair the paint-job after. The stretchers are glued into their holes during the build, after which the aircraft can be painted, and (with care) the rigging can be attached when main painting is completed. Review sample courtesy of
  11. So my great adventure with the best kit I`ve built so far is over. I think Edgar and the whole CSM team has done a great job. My model depicts the G.4 used for artillery spotting in C.74 Franco/Belgian unit. Several modifications have been made such as Chauviere propellers, Colt machine gun, different gun mount. The superb quality decals with cowling numbers and different serial were printed by Melius Manu. As far as I know all these will be available at CSM soon. The colt gun is greatly detailed with a small PE.
  12. SE.5a Wolseley Viper Profipak (82131) 1:48 Eduard The SE.5 was a huge improvement on early WWI fighters, although it originated in 1916 as an experimental scout aircraft, designed by Henry Folland amongst others, who went on to found Folland Aircraft. After some rather serious design problems that resulted in the death of one of the designers, the kinks were ironed out, and coupled with the powerful Hispano-Suiza engine, it became arguably the most capable fighter of the Great War. After a short run of the original SE.5, the A variant appeared with a more powerful engine with geared prop, but that led to more issues, including detachment of prop, gearbox or both whilst in flight. Wolseley were at this time producing an upgraded version of the engine that they named the Viper, which instead used a direct drive-shaft for the prop, which as well as resulting in reversed rotation, made for a more robust and reliable engine that was more prone to staying attached to its propeller. It became the de facto standard for the type due to its availability and reliability. There were a number of aces that flew the SE.5a, and coupled with the Camel, the aircraft helped the Allies to gain air superiority over the battlefield, with more American built aircraft scheduled to join the fray that were cancelled by the Armistice reducing their usefulness to nil. After the war many were sold into private hands and the type continued to be seen in the skies for years to come. The Kit This is a new tooling from Eduard, and that shows in the details that are immediately apparent when perusing the sprues. Arriving in one of their smaller kit boxes with the familiar orange Profipak branding, inside are two sprues in medium-dark grey styrene, a circular clear sprue, a fret of Photo-Etch (PE), a sheet of kabuki-style pre-cut masks, a large square decal sheet an A5 portrait colour instruction booklet with painting guide to the rear, printed on glossy stock. If you're not used to handling WWI aircraft, particularly fighters, you might forget just how small and delicate they were until you see the fuselage parts, which are scarcely 12cm long on the sprues (minus rudder etc.). There is no deficiency in detail on these small parts however, with lots of crisply executed stitching, ribs, hinges and fasteners depicted in a mixture of engraved and raised forms. The cockpit is also well detailed, with additions in PE bringing a level of realism that can seldom be achieved by us mortals otherwise, with PE belts and instrument panels, which are pre-painted with fine details to enhance the finish. The cockpit framework is inserted into a representation of the inner structural framing along with the seat, fuel tank, controls and cross-braces, which once painted in your preferred manner to simulate wood, are laced with bracing wires to further enhance the detail, but you will need to provide the necessary wires/thread. The cockpit floor is moulded into the lower wing, and here additional ammo cans are stored for the overwing Lewis gun, with another above the instrument panel, which has its plastic details removed before installation of the improved PE version. The dials are raised, so individual PE faces have been supplied on the fret, and great care will be needed to ensure these don't ping off into oblivion. The use of a pick-up pencil, fine tweezers or one of those little rubberised sticky-pads would be advisable, along with some careful positioning. With the cockpit installed in the lower wing, which is a one-piece arrangement by the way, the fuselage is then closed around the assembly, trapping a number of formers within the front section under the engine bay. The Viper engine is then built from parts, beginning with the sump, banks of pistons, rocker covers and exhaust manifold, to which some additional plug wires and other details could be added at your whim. There are two cowling choices for the engine, one of which is standard, with a bulkhead added, the other made up from the standard one with a scoop cut from a spare, and added after cutting the corresponding section from the original. This is only for the first markings option. The pilot's cockpit decking is also built up at this time, with a clear access panel on one side that is fitted with a PE surround, and a small winder with a PE handle at the joint with the main fuselage. These are both installed later after the upper fuselage section between them is added, and the separate ailerons and elevator fins are glued into their positions. At this point a number of clear triangular inspection windows are inserted into the wings and elevator fins, to show off the moulded-in control detail that will need painting beforehand. A choice of two types of elevator are offered, and the fuselage mounted machine gun is installed just prior to the top decking being closed up. A choice of curved or straight windscreen glass is given, and a simple sighting device with PE mounts is fitted to the top after filling in the slot for a simplified styrene version of the mount. The radiator is mated with the cowling as it is fitted, after which the upper wing is prepared for fitting. There are a few methods to successfully paint and rig your biplane, so I'll leave that decision up to you, but another set of clear inspection panels and PE surrounds are fixed into the wing before it is lined up with the struts and glued in place, usually after much of the painting and rigging is already completed. The ailerons are repeated on the upper wings, and PE arms are fitted, replacing the simple styrene pegs moulded into the parts. The fixed landing gear consists of an aerodynamic triangular frame on each side of the lower fuselage with an axle between them with an aerofoil section, but one markings option has simplified structure, to which you will need to add two lengths of 1mm stock to complete additional bracing struts, which isn't included in the kit. Once complete, it can be installed on the underside of the fuselage in sockets that should hold it firmly in position, and a similar attachment scheme is used for the tail bumper at the rear. The rudder is also fixed at this late stage, with a PE actuator rod replacing the styrene nub that is moulded in. Tail-wheel steering is the order of the day, and another actuator is added under the tail, again replacing the nub on that part too. For some reason the instructions then show more of the inspection windows and PE arms added at the end of the build, so feel free to skip to that point to avoid any issues. The Lewis gun and its mount is added to the upper wing right at the end with the circular magazine receiving a PE carry handle and outer face, while the muzzle gets a tiny iron sight. As one decal option doesn't carry the wing mounted gun, it should be filled, but as early in the build as possible to make life easier. A two blade prop is fitted to the Viper engine, and under the nose the SE.5a could carry a small rack of four bombs, which has been supplied on the included PE sheet as an extra. Happily for any Great War modeller, a full page of wiring diagrams are included on the last page of the instructions, with the wires picked out in blue against the airframe to make spotting them easier. Markings The basic colour scheme of most SE.5as was green/olive drab with a linen colour underside, and whatever personalisation the pilot applied to his ride. There are quite a variation on the theme with the provided options, partially because a couple of post-war airframes have been chosen. From the box you can build one of the following: SE.5a Wolseley Viper C1096, flown by Lt. H.J. Burden, No. 56 Squadron, Valheureux, France, Spring 1918 SE.5a Wolseley Viper F8146, 27th Aero Squadron, 1922 SE.5a Wolseley Viper F8953, flown by 2nd Lt. S.C. Elliot, No. 85 Squadron, Ascq, France, December 1918 SE.5a Wolseley Viper F8038, 25th Aero Squadron, November 1918 SE.5a Wolseley Viper C1149, flown by Cpt. D Grinnell-Milne, No. 56 Squadron, Béthencourt, France, Ascq, France, January 1919 Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion This is a lovely little model, and even though I'm not really a WWI modeller, which some of you might have picked up on already, this one appeals to me greatly, as it comes from a time when aircraft were starting to look more purposeful, and less like a bundle of twigs with wings! Superb detail and some really nice decal options, plus the PE and masks round out the package to a rather appealing whole. Very highly recommended. If you can't resist the lure of some of the other decal options, or can't decide which you'd prefer to model, then the Overtrees that are available directly from Eduard might well be for you. Supplied in an anonymous white box with only a sticker on the end to tell you what's in the box, the kit contains just the plastic you see above and nothing else. Not even the instructions, as you've already got them in the Profipak kit anyway, or you can pick them up from their site here. What about the PE though? Not a problem – Eduard have you covered there as well, and you can buy the PE separately too. Overtrees Overtrees Photo-Etch That's not all! Watch out for reviews of some additional aftermarket sets by Eduard to fit their kits, such as a super-detailed radiator, props, guns and the turnbuckles and tensioners for the rigging that they describe as "Stretchers". Coming soon to a forum near you. Well, right here actually. Review sample courtesy of
  13. Hanriot HD.1 Questions HR Models 1/72

    As I finished with Ansaldo, I'm concentrating my focus on finishing another long-standing project, another Italian bird Hanriot HD.1. I'm building a plane that was flown by Mario Fuchi, the plane has two machine guns and here are my questions: What type of synchronization mechanism might it have? I mean did it have "horn" on top of the muzzle or not? Also what about scoop underneath of the muzzle (I think it was a protection from shock wave from the gun)? I also have seen pictures where they present and absent as well. And final question did his plane had a sight, if yes what type? Thank you for any help. Alex
  14. Here is the progress of my build of Ansaldo SVA 5 by Fly 1/72
  15. Krupp 21cm Mörser 10 in 1:35 scale from Takom. Finished with Ammo of Mig and Vallejo acrylics; MIG and AK Interactive enamels, 502 Abteilung oils, and MIG and Vallejo pigments. This model represents a German piece captured by Canadian soldiers of the 27th Battalion (City of Winnipeg) during the legendary Battle of Vimy Ridge in April 1917. After my Whippet build last month, I've definitely fallen in love with these First World War kits. When I started deciding which kits I would buy, this howitzer was definitely on the top of my list. I find subjects like this rather interesting; it's a niche (artillery), within a niche (First World War subjects), within a niche (armor modelling). I can honestly say that this is one of my favorite builds out of all the stuff I've done in my short time in the hobby. Like any build, there's things I like and things I don't like, but overall I think it turned out rather well. Comments and criticism is welcomed as always!
  16. Fresh off the heels of my Whippet build, I decided to stick with the First World War theme and build this interesting little kit from Takom. The kit gives you two options for construction: the short-barreled 1910 model and it's replacement, the long-barreled 1916 model. I opted for the 1910 model because the color guide shows a piece captured by Canadian soldiers of the 27th Battalion (City of Winnipeg) during the Battle of Vimy Ridge in April 1917. Overall, this kit goes together well with no major issues. The biggest problem is the photo etch rifling for the barrel; it's kind of a pain because it's too large and rolling photo etch can be troublesome, but after trimming a couple of ridges off it went it much better. The two pins under the barrel housing snapped while I was attempting to remove them from the sprue, so they were replaced with brass rod. The support rods for the gun shield didn't quite fit so I cut them off and will replace them with styrene rod after assembly (the gun shield was left off for ease of painting). I also added a few extra bolts taken from the spares provided in the Whippet kit plus pins for the wheels and gun mount. I used Alclad grey primer and then preshaded with Tamiya German Grey (XF-63). The main color is Ammo of MIG Yellow Grey and the green is Pale Green mixed with Yellow Grey. A different green is listed in the color call-out, but the Pale Green is closer to the pictures provided. All of the chipping was done with Yellow Grey (over the green areas) and a mix of some Vallejo dark browns and black over everything else. The track pads were also painted with XF-63 separately from the wheels. After a brown filter was applied over the entire model to tone everything down and bring the colors together, the rivets and details were given a wash with Dark Green Grey panel line wash from Ammo of MIG's aircraft line and some streaking was applied with MIG Streaking Grime. After gluing the track pads to the wheels, I sponged on some Yellow Grey to simulate worn off paint. With a majority of the weathering done, the model was given a coat of gloss varnish to seal in the enamels and prep the surface for the two decals representing graffiti applied by Canadian troops to claim their prize (these are applied after weathering to show fresh paint). After the decals go on, I'll add more dirt buildup using oils and more enamels on the lower areas of the model.
  17. Takom's 1/35 scale Medium Mark A Whippet, completed as tank A321 serving near Achiet-le-Petit, France, in August 1918. Finished in Vallejo & Tamiya acrylics; MIG enamels; Abteilung 502 oils; and MIG, Secret Weapon Miniatures, and Vallejo pigments. This was my first entry into armor modeling and there are some things I don't like about the finished product and some things that I think turned out great, but overall I'm pretty happy with it. I've always been fascinated by the First World War and I think this will serve as a nice springboard into more models in this subject. (I've picked up this kit, the Meng Whippet, the Meng Renault FT, the Takom Krupp 21cm Mörser, and the Takom Mark V heavy tank kit in the last month!) Please feel free to tell me what I can approve upon as comments and criticism are always welcomed!
  18. Here's the Spin Sage 2; I have a 'work in progress' article on this unique aircraft in the 'wip' area. Rigging done with fishing line and ceramic wire. Am thinking for the moment I 'might' have the only one of these built in Omaha. Here's a history of the Sage 2. http://www.aviastar.org/air/england/sage-2.php
  19. Group Build Dates: 21 July to 11 November 2018 --- I'm a little surprised that I haven't seen this suggested already... but, we'll be commemorating the end of the Great War in 2018, and I feel we should think about a group build, so... Land, sea and air, models of any military or support equipment or personnel used by any country involved in the Great War, 1914 to 1918. Standard Group Build rules, and No what ifs What do you think guys? {edit 12 Mar 2017} Title changed from 1918 - 2018, 100 years after the end of WWl to Eleventh Hour GB: 1918-2018, commemorating the end of WWl Thanks to TigerTony66 for suggesting the Eleventh Hour {/edit} Yes, I know it's the armistice, and the war didn't end until 1919, but ... General Theme GB Robert Stuart - host Wyverns4 - co-host Arniec Kallisti Blastvader Murdo JackG Ozzy CliffB Basilisk Wez whitestar12chris Blitz23 Jb65rams charlie_c67 PlaStix jrlx stevehed Grey Beema Sgt.Squarehead 825 TonyTiger66 Sabre_days limeypilot Bonhoff alancmlaird SleeperService stevehnz Ray S Plasto Corsairfoxfouruncle krow113 sampanzer planecrazee Peter Lloyd John D C Masters
  20. Mk 1V

    Hi Any ideas on colour schems for these tanks?? Seen Grey from factory and painted Dark Brown in the field Camouflage??? Russian colours?? Ta D
  21. STEEL Seatbelt Sets German WWI, British Late, IJN and Soviet 1:32 Eduard Eduard are continuing their build up of the steel seatbelt range with the release of these four sets. As we have found with the previously released sets, these are also pre-painted and appear to be remarkably flexible, and even with quite rough handling the paint adheres to the metal really well. They are still made from 0.1mm sheet with the resulting etch is thin at around 0.06mm and have the same details printed on them, such as the webbing, stitching, and shadowing. Unlike some sets, all the buckles and clasps are etched as part of the strapping, so there is no fiddly work required to assemble each belt. [32874 – IJN Fighters] – There are six complete sets of belts in total on the single sheet. There are two for Mitsubishi late war, two for Nakajima and two for Kawanishi aircraft. All the lap straps are included but it appears that only the Mitsubishi and Kawanishi aircraft that used a shoulder strap arrangement. [32875 – Soviet WWII Fighters] – There are four complete belts included on the single sheet. Two of the belts are for Yakovlev aircraft and two are for Lavochkin aircraft. The Yakovlev shoulder straps are joined at the top, whilst the Lavochkin are separate, The instructions are nie and clear which set to use. [32878 - Late RAF WWII] – This sheet contains three complete seatbelts, all in a beige colour and with separate lap straps. All three shoulder harnesses are of the same type, naturally, and I believe they are meant to attach to the armoured bulkhead. [32879 – German WWI ] – The single sheet in this set contains enough belts to fit out at least six aircraft, if I have counted them correctly. There are just two variations with shoulder straps, the rest being just lap straps. With these you can detail your Fokkers, Albatros CIII, Hanover CI.II and other multi seat types. Conclusion Whilst many modellers are able to make their own seatbelts if they are not happy with the kit items, even if they are included, there are those who like the ease of using these style belts. The pre-painted look is, perhaps a little clinical, although there is some shading around the straps and clasps, but they can be weathered to your own personal taste. Review sample courtesy of
  22. WWI and Luftwaffe Instruments 1:32 Eduard Whilst Eduard are renowned for their cockpit sets and the like, now they are introducing a new line of etch sets containing individual instruments. Each is pre-painted and are direct replacements for kit parts. [32865 – Luftwaffe WWII Instruments] – This also contains a single sheet of what looks like etched steel/nickel, on which there are one hundred and nine separate instruments. Most of the instruments are attached to either single or triple bezel layers that need to be folded carefully into position, whilst the rest are are just single piece items. All are nicely pre-painted, and although small, you can make out which instruments which, admittedly under a magnifier. Some of the instruments are provided with separate adjustment knobs. [32866 – WWI Instruments] – This single sheet sets contains forty two individual instruments in three styles. There are ten British, nine French and thirteen German. You will need to do some research to define which instruments you will need to use. You will also need to remove the styrene parts before fitting. Conclusion These are very well etched and printed instruments that would look great when mounted in a nice cockpit. They would also be very useful for those who wish to scratch build their own instrument panels. Review sample courtesy of
  23. Hullo all, very much hoping someone is able to help me on this front. I play naval wargames, because obviously I'm a pretty cool guy, clearly, and I've decided to do some WWI stuff. Dreadnoughts, the salt air, thick choking clouds of coal, etc. For reasons of space and cost, I use 1/6000 scale ships by Figurehead (and also because I have tons of them already for WWII naval gaming), but I simply don't know a lot about either WWI ships or the miniatures for them. Is anyone able to answer a few questions for me? I'm trying to play out the Battlecruiser action/run to the south at Jutland; for the British I believe this requires the following packs: 1B27 5xQE 1B33 3xLion, 1xTiger 1B32 3xIndefatigable 1B61 Boadicea (represents the visually similar Active-class scout cruiser HMS Fearless of the 1st Destroyer Flotilla) 1B62 Bristol (1 ship) 1B63 Weymouth (2 ships) 1B64 Chatham (2 ships) 1B65 Birmingham, Chester (2 Birminghams, 1 Chester/Birkenhead) 1B66 Arethusa (3 ships) 1B67 Caroline (1 ship) 2 x 1B75 H/I Classes x8ea (9 I-class) 2 x 1B76 K,L,M&R x8ea (12 M-class, 4 L-class) 1B79 Botha, Swft, Talisman, Marksman (2 Talismans) But I simply don't know enough about the German ships to know what packs I need -- is anyone able to advise?
  24. Britsh Heavy Tank Mk.V Female 1:35 Meng Models The British Mark V tank was an upgraded version of the Mark IV tank, deployed in 1918 and used in action in the closing months of World War I, in the Allied intervention in the Russian Civil War on the White Russian side, and by the Red Army. Thanks to Walter Wilson's epicyclic gear steering system, it was the first British heavy tank that required only one man to steer it; the gearsmen needed in earlier Marks were thus released to man the armament. The Mark V had more power (150 bhp) from a new Ricardo engine (also ordered by Stern). Use of Wilson's epicyclic steering gear meant that only a single driver was needed. On the roof towards the rear of the tank, behind the engine, was a second raised cabin, with hinged sides that allowed the crew to attach the unditching beam without exiting the vehicle. An additional machine-gun mount was fitted at the rear of the hull. Production of the Mark V started at Metropolitan Carriage and Wagon at the end of 1917; the first tanks arrived in France in May 1918. Four hundred were built, 200 each of Males and Females; the "Males" armed with 6-pounder (57 mm) guns and machine guns, the "Females" with machine guns only. Several were converted to Hermaphrodites (sometimes known as "Mark V Composite") by fitting one male and one female sponson. This measure was intended to ensure that female tanks would not be outgunned when faced with captured British male tanks in German use or the Germans' own A7V. The Mark V was first used in the Battle of Hamel on 4 July 1918, when 60 tanks contributed to a successful assault by Australian units on the German lines. It went on to take part in eight major offensives before the end of the War. Canadian and American troops trained on Mk Vs in England in 1918, and the American Heavy Tank Battalion (the 301st) took part in three actions on the British Sector of the Western Front in late 1918. The Canadian Tank Corps, however, did not see action and was disbanded after the war's end. Approximately 70 were sent to support the White Russian forces in the Allied intervention in the Russian Civil War and in the British North Russia Campaign. Most were subsequently captured by the Red Army. Four were retained by Estonian forces, and two by Latvia. The Model The last year or so has been great for those who have been hankering for some new British WWI tanks. What with the Mk1’s from Takom and IV’s from Takom and Tamiya. Meng have previously released a Mk.V Male with full interior which has been reviewed HERE, they have now followed that up with the Mk.V Female, unfortunately without the interior. The kit comes in a deep box with a depiction of the vehicle on the battlefield. Inside there are seventeen sprues of beige styrene, four in black styrene ad sheet of etched brass and a small decal sheet. The kit has been designed with the co-operation of the Bovington Tank museum and there is evidence of this tie-up on the boxtop and on the beautifully laid out instructions. Naturally, being a Meng product the parts are all superbly moulded, with no sign of flash or other imperfections, just gorgeous detail. It is interesting, having built the Takom Mk.IV, to see the way different companies design, what are very similar vehicles. In a way the Meng kit is quite a bit simplified in comparison to the way Takom went about it. That’s not to say that the Meng kit is inferior, just different. The simplified points in the build are mostly concentrated around the areas that won’t be seen, such as the rhomboid structures and wheel fittings. Talking of wheels, that is where the construction of this kit begins. The idler, sprockets and two variations of road wheel are each made up from two parts, with the sprocket drive chains, including a section of chain and the chain box, are made up from five parts. The ammunition storage racks, which make up the internal angled faces of the gun compartments are each fitted with a pair of fire extinguishers. The track runs between the two faces of the rhomboid structures are much simpler than in the Takom kits with each of the top and bottom runs being single lengths, with just the end plates being separate. The drive chain assemblies are then attached and the road wheels slid onto the axles moulded to the rhomboids outer half. There is a small hatch fitted just in front of the sponson opening and an internal grille to the inside rear. The rhomboid halves are then closed up and fitted with a chain oiler and shackle mounting. The armoured fuel tank is made up from seventeen parts, but this does include the rear bulkhead of the tank and the ball mounted Vickers machine gun. This assembly is then glued to the rear portion of the hull floor before being sandwiched between the two rhomboid assemblies. The two top mounted cabins are each assembled from separate plates, to which the pistol port covers are attached. The forward “command” cabin also has a ball mounted machine gun fitted to the front plate and separate viewing hatches. The completed cabins are then fitted to the top hull plate, along with two more hatches, and the unditching beam rail attachment points. The exhaust and silence, which are of a completely different design compared with the earlier versions, is made up of six parts, whilst each beam rail is made up from four parts. The kit has the option of fitting the semaphore mast, which is positioned just aft of the rear cabin. The mast is fitted two rings from inside, allowing it to rotate should the modeller wish. With two semaphore arms attached on the top of the mast and two handles on the inside the completed top deck can be fitted to the rest of the hull, followed by the beam rails and exhaust assembly. The build then moves onto the sponsons. Each side having two dustbin style mountings with a machine gun in each mount. Each mounting comprises of eleven parts and each pair is fitted into the nice piece fixed sponson. Alternatively the modeller has the option of build the kit with two separate sponson ends which are then able to fold into the hull. Beneath each sponson there is a large panel with two hatches fitted to the outside and two crew seats fitted to the inside. The hatches can be posed open if required, although with no other internal detail there doesn’t really seem much point. With the armament fitted the rest of the hull is detailed with various pieces of PE to make up strengthening beams, brackets and intake grille shields. The rest of the parts, such as access panels are also added at this point. Coming to the end of the build and the tracks can finally be tackled. Each link is attached to the sprue by four gates which will take a while to clean up, but when they’re done it’s just a matter of clicking them together to make each ninety one link length. With the tracks fitted, the unditching beam with added chains is attached to the beam rails, followed by the large fascine, made up from fifteen parts and attached to the front of the tank, above the command cabin, with another pair of chains. Decals The smallish, well printed decal sheet provides markings for three vehicles, all of which are painted in brown, which I still have yet to see any definitive proof of use, except at the Tank Museum. Still, Brown it is, for now. The three vehicles depicted are:- Mk.V Tank A6 of the 1st Battalion, tank corps, British Army, France 1918. This vehicle has the red and white stripes on the outside front of each rhomboid. Mk.V Tank, of the 10th Battalion, Tank Corps, British Army, at the Battle of Amiens, France, August 1918. Mk.V Tank found in use by the German Army, Berlin 1945 The decals are well printed, with good register. Conclusion Well, they’ve been a long time coming, and now modellers have a raft of British WW1 tanks to choose from. Fortunately the modelling companies only seem to have clashed on the Mk.IV, thus giving the other versions a fair crack of the whip. This is an excellent looking kit, which looks like it will go together without too much fuss and will look great in a diorama or amongst its sisters in a collection. Very highly recommended Review sample courtesy of
  25. Sopwith Camel Eduard 1:48th

    Hello, First, excuse me for my mistake english, i am writing from France. I want to build the Cpt Arthur Roy Brown’s plane. Brown who is a possible candidate to have involved in the Manfred Von Richtofen’s death. Here are the photograph of the men and the plane (find on the net) : « Rentrons dans le vif du sujet » !, Here is the work i made on the two alf parts of fuselage: I completed the structure behind the seats with squarred plastic profiles. I used aluminium alclad painds for the metallics parts, the fabrics parts are paint in Gunze H85 and the wood parts in H37 Gunze. For the wethering i used some black oil paint on the metallic parts. For the wooden parts i used differents shade of yellow and brown oil paints. I build some reinforcement cable with streched sprue. I painted them with gunmetal from aeromaster. For the instrument panel after paintjob on the wooden part, i used the decals from the box, some rhodoid cut with a punch and die and instrument dials from Aeroclub. The seat’s structure received the same painjob as the two parts of the fuselage. The seat from the box as been replace with a Barracuda studio one.L That’s all folk for this day. Best regard’s from France.