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Found 46 results

  1. Hi guys. This will be my first ever Group build. I'm very excited as this will be the closest thing to the Gloster Meteor dual build I did with @TheBaron last year. I have some ideas on what I'm going to do but I need to finish of my HP o/400 first. (next few days) I'll pop a pic of the box here as a kind of popping my flag in the sand. Hopefully you can join along with this and help an old dog (or should that be cat? ) out here and there along the way. I'll pop a bit more info and some pics once the old "page turner" is done and dusted. Take care y'all and Happy Modelling. Johnny. ps. this will be my little companion through this build, seems rather apt.
  2. Oil Brusher Paints AMMO of Mig Jiménez Using oils for weathering effects is hardly a new technique, but it has been occasionally hit-and-miss if you happen to buy the wrong oils with gritty pigment, or forget to let the oils "breathe" on a piece of card to wick away the excess oil that slows down drying and makes it harder to achieve certain effects. The lead foil tubes and their caps can also be an impediment, as they are prone to sticking in place if not used frequently, and we have all probably twisted a tube badly whilst trying to undo it at some point. Then there's finding a good brush to apply the paint, cleaning it afterward etc. etc. It can all be a bit of a faff. You know what's coming next, don't you? Let me introduce you to the new AMMO Oil Brusher system. Not the most exciting brand name, but very descriptive. These tubular pots of oil paint have been formulated not to need any oily residue wicking away, and the long black cap has a captive brush with a stiff set of bristles that works rather well. There is a scraper-lip inside the neck that removes the excess paint, and leaves the brush with just about the right amount of paint for the job in hand. The body of the bottle is clear so it's easy to see which bottle you have hold of, and there are 21 shades in the range at launch, with more on the way I'm sure. The screw cap coupled with the rigid body should prevent any clogging down the line, and if the lid does seize, there's plenty to get hold of to apply your massive forearm strength to. If that doesn't work, just run some hot water over the lid to soften any residue. Below are the available shades at launch: A.MIG.3500 Black A.MIG.3511 Red Primer A.MIG.3501 White A.MIG.3512 Dark Brown A.MIG.3502 Yellow A.MIG.3513 Starship Filth A.MIG.3503 Red A.MIG.3514 Earth A.MIG.3504 Dark Blue A.MIG.3515 Ochre A.MIG.3505 Olive Green A.MIG.3516 Dust A.MIG.3506 Field Green A.MIG.3517 Buff A.MIG.3507 Dark Green A.MIG.3518 Sunny Flesh A.MIG.3508 Dark Mud A.MIG.3519 Light Flesh A.MIG.3509 Medium Grey A.MIG.3520 Basic Flesh A.MIG.3510 Rust Following the initial releases, the intended subject matter has broadened with the colour range erring toward Sci-Fi, as evidenced by the Warhammer 40K and Gundam themed names of some of the more recent colours, which meshes with the (fairly) recent book and paint set releases that have firmly placed AMMO in the Sci-Fi miniature and modelling arena. This should attract a larger customer base from the widening of genre, although the Warhammer 40K guys are used to everything being available from their own shops, so that may be a tougher market to crack. To save you craning your neck due to the increased slant of the bottles in the picture, and risking injury, the colours are as follows: A.MIG.3523 Dusty Earth A.MIG.3531 Mecha Dark Green A.MIG.3525 Red Tile A.MIG.3532 Starship Bay Sludge A.MIG.3526 Space Purple A.MIG.3538 Silver A.MIG.3527 Marine Blue Clearly my test wasn't exhaustive, but was enough for me to get an idea of how the pigments would work. I experimented with streaking, shading, and "general grime", and considering the unsympathetic base colour white, the results were promising. Thanks as usual to my 1:72 He.111 wing for putting up with my experimentations. The thinners I used was some old stuff I had lying around but should give a fair representation. You will (as mentioned) need some high quality low odour thinners to blend the oils once applied, whether it is to shade an area, or to effect the oil-dot technique, but if you don't already have some on hand, AMMO have a 100ml bottle that is specifically designed for use with their products here. In use the pigment is dense, and finely ground so that gritty finishes aren't a concern, allowing you to streak, blend and paint without worry, whilst applying only as much as you wish to. Oddly, there is no fill level noted on either the bottle or the accompanying literature, but I found that they hold 10ML whilst rooting around their site. You can buy the full set or individually as you need them, but you may want to consider getting one of the new organisers that have been designed to fit the full 21, and has been laser cut from fine MDF with a white surface finish and the AMMO logo at the front. Highly recommended. Oil Brushers Organizer Enamel Thinners Review sample courtesy of
  3. Make your own panel washes?

    So... I've been trying to find a stockist of Tamiya Panel Line Accents, both black and brown, and MIG Streaking Grime in the UK that doesn't charge mouth watering prices. The prices abroad seem to be far cheaper (e.g. Passion132 do MIG streaking grime for just under €4 as opposed to over £7, but unfortunately you have to factor in shipping which then kills the saving). Then I had a thought; can I not just buy a tin of Humbrol gloss enamel and thin down as required? Are the panel line washes not just extremely thinned down ordinary enamel paints? If so, then I just need a tin of Humbrol gloss black 21 and gloss tan 9 for the two Tamiya panel line accent colours above? Does anyone know how to make an equivalent of MIG Streaking Grime?
  4. Mig Ammo restock.....

    Hi, We've just received a restock from Mig.Ammo. There are a number of new products in with the general restocks. 20 new oil brusher colours, plus seven oilbrusher sets. Mig.ammo oilbrushers  - Sets & individual colours. Will hopefully have the 2 new RAF, muds and waters on the site tomorrow. Paul
  5. I've been interested in N Gauge railway modelling for many years but never really had the time or space to build a layout. It hasn't stopped me building up a good stock of rolling stock. I enjoy weathering and here is a selection of some that I've completed over the last few years. Thanks for looking. Cheers
  6. Extreme Weathering Show - 21st May 2017

    Now all the discussions about the show are complete, this is the show as we have it today..... EXTREME WEATHERING is our new show and replaces AUTOMODELLISMO that has run for the past six years. The date is Sunday 21st May 2017 at the usual HaMeX Events venue. Hanslope Village Hall, Newport Road, Hanslope, Bucks MK19 7NZ Start 10.00am The new show will concentrate on finishing your models - using weathering, texturing, washes, and airbrushing techniques, all demonstrated by a number of invited experts in their field. This detailing will apply to the models themselves, and also to finishing bases and dioramas. We aim that most modelling subjects will be covered – aircraft, military, cars and vehicles in general, plus space, science fiction and fantasy. Currently we plan six Demonstration Stations in the Main Hall, with space in front for people to sit or stand to watch the action, and we hope, to ask questions and maybe take part in the demos. Each base will have examples of the work on display.... and may be a few things for sale. There will also be a traders present, with a range of weathering materials, and maybe to tempt you with a kit of some new modelling subject! The Small Hall will feature a display and demonstrations from the New City SMC. There is also the possibility of fitting a couple more Demo Stations in there. The line up of demonstrators is currently as follows - although may change if people are not available due to professional commitments. Richard Franks (Valiant Wings ) : Airbrushing and weathering aircraft Mike Tucker [Provisional] : Finishing SFX miniatures. How the professionals weather, distress and generally ‘dirty down’ models for filming. http:// http://www.themodelunit.co.uk/ Kev Green : Airbrushing basics and using masks in airbrushing http:// https://www.facebook.com/kevgreen.images/posts/10154556379564171 Chris Simmons : Figures and SF Michelle Edwards : Basic AFV weathering techniques Mat Irvine : Cars and vehicles – with an emphasis on materials for diorama bases http:// http://www.matirvine.com/ New City SMC will be based in the Small Hall, with displays and demos. This is the first time we have run this show, so we have tried to leave things as open as possible, so we can get dialogue between attendees and the demonstrators. If you come along, speak up if you want to know about a specific technique, or how to solve a weathering and finishing problem you have. We will be producing a form, so people can give us feedback on the show and what they would like to see on the demo menu for the next time we run the event. We have free parking as normal, (the side car park is newly paved), and the K-9 Café will be open as usual. There will also be a raffle with the main prize being £50 of weathering materials. As we have demonstrators’ expenses to pay, entry will be a little more than for a standard HaMeX show, to reflect the extra costs. Entry is £5 per person, but this will include one ticket for a free tea or coffee from the K-9 Café and one free raffle ticket for a bundle of weathering materials. (more tickets can also be purchased.) More to be added when we have it. Thanks, Paul
  7. Hello I have been trying to get a bottle of Tamiya Panel Line Accent brown or black here in the UK but with no luck. Is there an alternative to this for highlighting panel lines?
  8. Ok so I am building this machine and if you look at the wing tanks they are somewhat weathered! I want to do likewise and wondered how I did this? Hair spray method? If so how do I do it? thanks Chris
  9. Weathering Aircraft Magazine - BASE Colors Ammo by Mig Jimenez I have now seen a few weathering magazines from AMMO and it is good to see the quality of both the printing and content is not falling off in any way. This issues deals with the BASE colour used on a model and how that effects the overall weathering process. It also helps when you have a model that is all over one colour, or a couple of major colours. Models covered in this issue are an F-117A, Bf 109, Red Arrows Hawk, F-14, Zero, Horten 229, P-38J; and Star Wars Starfighter N-1. The volume shows how important the base coat is to achieving the final look, and to what may go on top, and how that affects things. The various authors give a good account of the techniques used to achieve the required look. The pictures are clear and the accompanying text lays out the processes used to accomplish the finished models. Its up to the reader how far they take things. If nothing else the magazine give food for thought on how far the modeller wants to go with weathering. Conclusion This looks to be a very useful publication, although in magazine format the print quality is more like a book. Dealing how a base coat affects your final model it shows you what can be achieved in miniature. Overall a high quality publication. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  10. Hi all, I have just finished doing some streaking (paint, not naked) with artist's oils and I still have more to do. I want to do some final weathering with pencils, pastels, etc. The question is how long do you need to wait before applying a top coat? The coat I have been paining over is gloss. The terpenoid thinner I have been using has dulled a lot of it but I am not finished yet and need to apply a final dull/matte coat.
  11. Tamiya Weathering Master Powders

    Hi all! I'm new to this - can the areas to where I have used this product then be masked with Tamiya tape for airbrushing? Or do I need to "fix" the weathering - jet pipe burns and "blue" in this case - with a varnish coat before masking? Thanks as always. Martin
  12. Sun bleached weathering

    Hi all, I looking to the collective for advice a guidance. I've been modelling on and off since the mid 1960s but I've not really considered weathering until much recently. I practice and bit and then try it out on my builds. I am now wanting to portray a Super Sabre in standard US two greens/tan/grey but where the paint has been bleached by the sun. What techniques work best for this? I am considering the following: 1. standard paint pattern but all upper paints with a dot of white or sand added, just to lighten it slightly, 2. using a flory sand to accentuate certain areas 3. use a Tamiya weathering paste set to again accentuate Would that work? I wondered about a very very light dust with a weak sand paint mixed? I'd appreciate your guidance and thoughts. Thanks. Martin
  13. Hello My friends, Here is my Hasegawa's F-14D Tomcat with markings for VF-2. Its for an article about weathering on the Naval Jets. Hope you enjoy.
  14. Hello! After finishing my third model as part of the P-51 Mustang Group Build (link), I have decided to take some "risk" by taking one of the kits on my stash and try a few things I've been researching during a few months on the web and youtube related to painting and weathering techniques. I know that there are many other ways of finishing a model, but the ones I'm interested on are the following: - Priming - pre shading - post shading - chipping - oil washes - pastels The victim for this little project is a Focke-Wulf Fw190A-8 from Airfix in 1/72. Nice kit so far, not the best fit to say the least but it will serve the purpose. The paints I'll be using are only Tamiya acrylics, and I'm fully aware of the need of mixing these to approach to the RLM colors, but that would exceed the purpose of what I'm trying to do here. So I will only use the closest colors to my references, but I'm not trying to achieve any historical accuracy on this one. The primer is Tamiya grey and the silver for the chipping will be AS12 decanted and airbrushed. Clear coats will be future, X22 and XF86. For the chipping I plan to use liquid mask from Microscale products. Please feel free to correct me or suggest other ways and alternatives to do things at any moment. My intention posting this here is to have the chance to keep learning and I'm willing to know your opinions and ideas. So here are some shots of the process so far: Dry fit test and cockpit parts ready for painting: cockpit painted After first coat of primer So there she is so far, I'll update as soon as I have some progress. Thank you, Jorge
  15. Here’s my second RFI on Britmodeller, and my second model since taking up the hobby again. A 25 Year Falklands Anniversary boxing of the venerable Airfix 1/72 Avro Vulcan finished as XH558. Have been working on it for ages – I didn’t really appreciate what a big bugger it was until it started to come together – it was entertaining trying to shoe-horn it into my extractor booth! The tool is 80’s vintage, dating back to just after the Falklands War and it’s really showing its age with nasty raised panel lines and more flash than Gordon! Also the fit of the wings was the worst I’d experienced, taking an awful lot of filling and sanding. I discovered Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty and happily ditched my nasty smelly Squadron White Putty. I syringed in the new filler with one of their Pin Point Syringe thingys and then smoothed it with a wet finger or paintbrush – hardly needed sanding. Pity I’d already sanded off most of the surface detail by then getting rid of the blobs of rock hard Squadron! Airfix really should do a new tool for this aviation icon. Loads more firsts for me with this build: First airbrush camo and so first time with yards of white-tac worms and Tamiya tape. I had to choose the largest surface area for a 1/72 model and both sides in camo for my first try. Should have tried a Spitfire first! First resin – Freightdog tail pipes – see below. And isn’t resin dust horrible! First panel line rescribing – again, I had to pick this model! More little bits of scratch building rectifying mistakes or lost bits. More confident weathering I’m quite a fan of Vulcans so have lots of reference materials. The VTTS’ own books were the most useful with hundreds of great images along with the Haynes Manual and Aviation Classics magbook. Postings on this forum were also a great assistance. Finishing off a 1/72 Airfix Control Tower next as part of a diorama build and then onto the Dambusters Lanc! So happy looking and thanks to anyone who cares to comment! Laying down the camo Time to play dirty! Flory Grime all over my pride & joy, sloshing into my laboriously scribed panel lines. And underneath, with loads of nasty raised lines ... The Grime wash gave the model a nice 'used' look. I know they keep XH558 nice & clean but you can't disguise the wear & fading of a rather elderly airframe. I finished it with a gloss topcoat as it always seems to be gleaming in the pictures! Didn’t have much fun with the decals. I don’t know what vintage they were in my 2007 25 year Falklands anniversary box, but they pretty much all suffered from silvering around the edges that no amount of MicroSol/Set could cure. Irritatingly some of the decals broke up on handling even after a coat of Humbrol Clear so there was a bit of patching needed. From photos, I noticed that there was some discolouration around the front cockpit windows so I tried to replicate that. You can just see the face of the co-pilot through the side window! Only noticed quite late in the day that there are two small side windows for the other crew shown as a recessed circle. Had I noticed earlier, I would have drilled them out & shoved some clear plastic in. I think I read somewhere that there’s a Deluxe Materials product you can brush on from the inside to imitate glass – would have been perfect for here. The numerous hours spent rescribing the panels lines on the top surface were worth it in the end. I wonder what that white/silvery panel along the spine at the top is for? Not sure what the odd shaped discoloured panel at the bottom of the tail fin is for – I saw it removed in a picture when they were doing servicing. Any ideas? I tried to replicate the fading seen on today’s airframe. For the rivet counters amongst you, I followed the instructions from my 2007 pre VTTS kit which told me to put the pod on the side of the taper behind the tail fin. Not sure what it is or what it’s for, but subsequently I saw from photos that XH558 doesn’t have it. Rather than prise it off and have more filling to do, I’ve left it as a tribute to other Vulcans and even adorned it with the appropriate decal! It also told me to paint the air intake interiors white so had the joys of trying to paint them in camo once assembled. The Freightdog Models tail pipes. I bought them after I’d assembled the wings to the fuselage but soon realised that they should have put in during assembly so my first experience of resin was a bit scary! Lots of sawing, hacking, sanding, filling, sanding etc. But I’m really happy with the result – much better than the originals. I retro-fitted some extra nose weight just in front of the bomb bay after fitting the resin tail pipes as per the Freightdog instructions but it’s still a bit tail happy & will tilt back with a bit of a nudge! I scratch built a sort of coffin with one half of a Blue Steel missile, filled it with lead shot and glued it under the front wheel well. It’s not quite forward enough and also partially melted the roof of the well! Couldn’t face the idea of rescribing the under-surfaces – would have taken me weeks! Apart from giving the surface a nice ‘used’ patina, hardly any of the grime wash stayed on the raised panel lines. The bomb bay was a big disappointment on this model – the doors were really thin & flimsy. I built some ribs out of sprue which helped but in the end they were held in place with filler more than anything else! After it was all sealed up I found that you can get after market bomb bay detailing – will save that for my next Vulcan build! Would have loved to have added some extra detail to the wheel wells – will save that for a subsequent build! Just a bit of dirty goo for this one. Thanks for looking!
  16. Using oil paint for weathering...

    Hey guys - I want to try using oils for weathering washes. Any tips? Doesn't the oil take an age to dry? Do you just use 'standard' oil paint from the tubes? Thinners?
  17. Weathering Aircraft Magazine - Chipping Ammo by Mig Jimenez This is now the second Weathering Magazine from Ammo that I have seen, and this seems to be of the same high quality. There are 66 pages of glossy high quality paper in an A4 format, all in colour. As the title would suggest this edition concentrates on paint chipping seen in various degrees on aircraft. In addition to photos of the real thing there are models from different eras and genres showing off the techniques. These include a French Navy Corsair, Russian operated Hurricane, Japanese Ki-84; and a Star Wars Y-Wing among the builds featured. The different authors show different styles of chipping, though as the title suggests Ammo products feature. Conclusion This looks to be a very useful publication, although in magazine format the print quality is more like a book. Overall a high quality publication. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  18. Morning all! I've always rather liked the Gulf War Tornado ZA465- otherwise known as Foxy Killer and so it would have been absurd if I was to pass up the opportunity to model this fabulous example of British aviation. Kit: Revell 1:72 Tornado Gr.1 (From my LMS- Mike's Models) Extras: Print Scale- Tornado Gr.1 Gulf War nose art (From Hannants) -Scratchbuilt RBF tags made from paper and FOD covers made from tissue paper. Paints Used: Vallejo: Black, White, Medium Olive, Barley Grey, Red. The "Desert Pink" colour was created from a variety of Vallejo paints mixed together. AK Interactive Dust Wash used for weathering the wheels *Note: I can't guarantee that this model is entirely accurate: Thanks for having a look! Kind regards, Sam
  19. Weathering Magazine - What If Ammo by Mig Jimenez This is the first Weathering Magazine from Ammo that I have seen, but I have had sight of some of their other publications and this seems to be of the same quality. There are 77 pages of glossy high quality paper in an A4 format. These cover 3 Tanks, 2 aircraft, 1 flying saucer (well it is what if!), a Tie Fighter; and one Mech alternative history idea. There are also 5 pages of "What if" ideas to spark some imagination. The pictures are clear and the accompanying text lays out the processes the contributing modellers used to accomplish the finished models. Conclusion This looks to be a very useful publication, although in magazine format the print quality is more like a book. Even though dealing with "what if" subjects the techniques are equally at home with other subjects. Overall a high quality publication. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  20. Hi everyone, I have been lurking on here for a while now looking for tips and pointers; so I finally decided to register and ask questions. I am about to return to modelling after a major 35 year hiatus, but having said that, I am really more of a newbie. I used to build airfix kits and add the water slide transfers and that was pretty much it, any painting was done with a cheap brush and humbrol enamels (and not often at that) I more enjoyed the building. Anyway, looking on here has inspired me (especially the work of Andy Moore; I mean WOW). What I do need is advice. I have been bought the bandai 1/12 scale R2 and BB8 kit and I'm wondering where to start with weathering. The kit is still on its sprues so I have yet to make any kind of start, as for materials I have some Sprue cutters, craft knife and diamond files from some of my day job tools (I'm an engineer - mainly in the aircraft and submarines industries; 3 colour smoke pod in the red arrows hawk is some of my work). So, where do I start - I want to build the kits and start to introduce some grime to each droid, bit of dust for bb8 and some oily type grime for R2. Help?
  21. Liquid Pigment Sets LifeColor I've been a LifeColor user for some years now, and I really like their handy boxsets that include pretty much all you need to accomplish a task. These new sets are a bit of a new thing however, as they profess to be "Liquid Pigments", which is a new term to me. They are odourless, and can be washed off with water if wet, or removed using a special Remover liquid once dry. This gives the modeller a lot of leeway in weathering their model, applying effects here and there, or all over and then cutting any over application back as needed. They apply on a satin or gloss surface for best effect, and there is no stipulation of enamel or acrylic paint, so they're good to go for all surfaces. Each set contains six bottles with green lids containing 22ml of product, which I suspect will go a long way if used sparingly, and can be thinned with water if a more subdued effect is required. You can apply the liquid with a paintbrush or airbrush to achieve different effects, so their usefulness is quite varied. They are also able to be used as filters if diluted, and you can mix the colours together to obtain new shades for a specific use. If you decide to put a different colour over the original application, you'll need to fix it with a coat of varnish so that the shades don't bleed together, so you'd better be happy with the original coat before you fix it! The Remover is included in each set, and is a clear almost odourless liquid with just a faint hint of the chemicals that make it up. This is probably best used with a brush or cotton bud to remove any excess pigment after it has dried. The sets are themed for a particular subject, and are aimed primarily at Armour modeller, although like so many modelling techniques they would be equally at home on a heavily weathered aircraft, ship, vehicle or diorama. Brief instructions are given on the back of each box in Italian and English, with a few colour photos of the process to assist you in understanding their use. Detail Emphasiser (LP01) Contains: LPW01 Burnt Umber, LPW02 Black Umber, LPW03 Burned Olive Green, LPW04 Black Grey, LPW05 Colonial Dark Sand, RE Remover. Rust Wizard (LP02) Contains: LPW06 Deep Rust, LPW07 Eroding Light Rust, LPW08 Eroding Dark Rust, LPW09 Orange Marks, LPW10 Yellow Marks, RE Remover. Rain and Dust Makeup (LP03) Contains: LPW11 Rain Marks, LPW12 Road Dust, LPW13 Light Earth, LPW14 Dark Dust, LPW15 Soot, RE Remover. Hulls & Wooden Decks (LP04) Contains: LPW16 Fouling Green. LPW17 Surfaces Shadower, LPW18 Wooden Deck Darkener, LPW19 Wooden Deck Shadower, LPW20 Dried Salt, RE Remover. Wings & Fuselages Detail Emphasizer (LP06) Contains: LPW26 Black Liner, LPW27 Grey Liner, LPW28 Paynes Grey Liner, LPW29 Landing Gear Dust, LPW30 Blue Burned Exhaust, RE Remover. You can purchase the sets, or get individual colours to either suit your needs or top-up your sets after use, as well as getting the Remover separately in case you run out. Conclusion I haven't had chance to use these yet, so will report back when I have. That said however, LifeColor do make some good products, and I'm not expecting to be disappointed. I'm actually looking forward to using them – now where did I put that Jagdpanzer IV? Review sample courtesy of
  22. Hello Britmodeller, In April 2015 I decided to find out what would happen to a model if it was weathered naturally. So I set to converting an old table into a runway, took one of my lesser models and mounted it, then left it out in a garden for just over seven months through a British spring and summer. In that time it experienced all the weathers that one would expect in this climate and a few unexpected ones. Having no real idea of what would happen it seemed a worthwhile experiment. I chose this.. This is my model of XM655 as it appeared on the day the experiment began. All in all it is not a very good Vulcan but I was very new to modelling when I built it so I thought it would be an ideal test subject. Each month or so I visited and took some pictures, if you missed that then here's the link below. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234979698-vulcan-xm655-a-natural-weathering-experiment-with-completed/?hl=xm655 The original idea was to leave it outside for a year or perhaps more, but I decided to end the experiment a little early due to concerns over it passing from weathered to destroyed. Yesterday it was brought back home, or rescued if you like and some photos were taken. Looking at the above images I wouldn't blame you for wondering if I was mistaken that it was passing from weathered to destroyed, but as we look closer you will see where my concerns came from. My main concern was the paint work, the peeling in places was starting to get quite bad. Below you can see some of the smaller problems areas... All of these on their own aren't so bad, but there were areas suffering a little more... Here you can see where the roundel used to be it is peeling quite badly.. And on the left airbrake. But all over the Vulcan it can be seen that the Humbrol Matt-Cote has made it very spotty and in places it is letting go altogether... Here on the nose, patches missing. Around and above the intake.. The wing leading edges. The tail cone.. A curious pattern just near to one of the antennas All over the top... As you've seen from these images, not many of the decals have survived on the upper surfaces but on the belly it's a different story. No decals have been lost from the underside at all. But still the same pattern of deterioration in the Matt-Cote can be seen (plus the brown varnish which the whole thing was covered in at it's build time). Since this paint is light aircraft grey and it's quite dirty it's not completely clear, so below you can see some shots deliberately underexposed with a strategically placed light source.. It isn't as extensive as the upper surfaces, just happening a little slower I suspect. So the underside could have survived a year for sure, maybe more. One thing I was hoping for was paint fade but this didn't really occur, but one thing I did notice when taking these pictures - In one place the tone has changed slightly... Have a look at the green paint on the tail and compare. The tone seems a little warmer compared to the upper wing surfaces. Finally some points of interest... Dirt has made it all the way into the intakes. ..And all the way under (or above) the ECM plates.. Also in one intake, a non-scale web... All in all a successful first test I think. When I began this experiment I did rush it a little. I decided to re-coat the Vulcan in Matt-Cote before I sent it to the garden but I didn't give it enough time to fully dry or cure. On top of that I later found out the the materials added to it to make it a Matt finish are actually porous. This probably accounts for why it deteriorated so quickly. I had hoped that it would make it to a year at least, for the first month or so it went quite well. Now this Vulcan will sit with pride rather than being a poorly finished early attempt of mine and will be protected from nature. I may at some point attempt a replacement of the wing roundel decals, but other than that I won't be doing anything further. Since this experiment was ended early I've decided that another Vulcan will take the weathering test, and so when I removed this one from its mount I put another one in its place but this time with a gloss finish, properly dried. Look out for that in the Work In Progress section soon. In the meantime, thanks for looking.. Adam
  23. Hello Britmodeller, It's been a while since I posted a WIP and this will not be a typical WIP, but it is something I hope will interest some of you out there. Weathering; It's something that I plan to do in the future, but for now it got me thinking about something. Yes, you can weather a model with washes or power or any other method that one might try. But what would happen to a model if you weathered it naturally? This is my model of XM655, looking glorious in the morning sun. Back in the early days I didn't plan much ahead, I just wanted to build Vulcan's. Originally this was to be XM594 but due to some technical errors on my part I flipped and made it XM655. Technically it's neither really. This model is just a bit above crude, there's minimal sanding, no filler, panel gaps and the paint job is questionable. But it's still pretty, after all it's a Vulcan. Anyhoo, it's now time to replace it with a more accurate Vulcan from the same period but what to do with this one? It represents quite a few hours of stress and pleasure and I don't have the heart to do with it as the RAF did with all their Vulcan's they no longer wanted (i.e. Bulldozer). Experiment time! Which I shall call, Natural Weathering Part 1. Over a year after completion, XM655 is back on the bench for some modifications... Still wet with fresh Varnish... When I originally built this model I wasn't really aware of the importance of Varnish and basically I just threw it on, taking little or no care to make sure it was well spread, in fact you can see areas of brown on the belly where evidence of my ignorance can be seen. On top of that, the Varnish was never applied to the Decals. For this experiment, I have re-coated the whole thing with Humbrol Matt Cote, with an additional extra layer on the topside. I have to say the Matt Cote is much better than the brown Humbrol stuff I've used previously on this model, it's completely changed the finish for the better. Natural weathering means outside, obviously.. So I need to stop the thing from blowing away. Since this is a wheels down Vulcan I've used the U/C bays as a mounting point. Three holes, three nuts and some superglue. As unpredictable as British weather is, we can be certain that there will be wind and some of it quite strong. With the amount of surface area on the Vulcan it will almost certainly blow off the table so it needs to be secured. Putting the nuts in place did create a new problem, the centre of mass is too far aft, or more so I should say - It will sit on it's wheels but only just. To solve this little problem I've dropped many brass stand-offs, usually used when putting a PC together, into the nose. Aside from these mod's, that's all I plan to do with this Vulcan for the experiment. Since my garden doesn't get much sun, I am borrowing some space in my Nan's garden. As far as she is concerned she is getting a new garden ornament as she has much love for the Vulcan. She also kindly let me borrow/destroy an old table. So props to Nan! So now the mount. A table was the obvious choice but just a table would look a little out of place, so.... ...A makeshift runway (not to scale, sadly). As you can see the mount points are drilled for the Vulcan in the centre. I have to admit, I wish I'd spent a little more time on the table, the lines aren't as good as they could have been but that's what happens when you try to get it all done in a day. On the plus side, the excessive amount of black I seem to have used does give the runway a wet look. Let see what she looks like... As you can see the jet pipes are covered, I don't want creepy crawly's making a nest in there. So, some protection from the birds etc... You may have noticed from an earlier picture that the table has four holes, one in each corner.. Here you see four canes in the holes, the idea being some netting will be attached to protect the Vulcan from birds and other wildlife that might damage it. I thought it best to give sink the table into the ground a little to help stop it blowing over in high wind, although the table is quite heavy anyway it wouldn't hurt. Now that the table has (literally) been hammered into the ground and the four canes are in place for netting, it's time to screw the Vulcan down. Screwed into the nut in all the U/C bays and nearly up to the top of the model, it is also secured by two more nuts one on top of and the other underneath the table. All the wheels are raised about 1mm up from the table/runway surface so whatever weather gets thrown at it the bolts will take all the strain rather than the wheels, which are a bit marginal. So here the experiment begins; For at least one year this Vulcan's wheels will not touch ground and will be exposed to every form of British weather. This is how she looks on Day 1 (05-04-2015). Predictions: Since the model is made of plastic I don't expect the standard weathering that a real Vulcan would experience, but what I do hope to achieve is some paint fade and I would imagine a layer of dirt build-up should be expected. These are the two things I expect but what else might happen? I'm not entirely sure. I plan to visit and take a new picture or two each month and I will post on this WIP. For now, this is how I leave her... Do you have any predictions? Post below. I'm curious as to how this will turn out. Stay Tuned! p.s. Expect some night shoots to appear.
  24. My wife got me P-47, in the pipeline there are also mustang and mig-21. All require part- or all- natural metal finish. I often see good models made this way. I wonder, how to make them this good. Standard paints allow to apply camo->acrylic clear gloss->decals->gloss again->oil/enamel pinwash and other oils etc. I will probably use alclads II since the choice of colours is quite big and I know the quality is good. There are some questions I'd like to ask. 1. Should I coat alclad with clear paint (clear gloss I assume)? how to apply decals? Directly onto alclad? Should I secure decals with another layer of clear? 2. How does alclad react to oil wash and white spirit? I tried it on model master metalizers and I cannot say it was a success - white spirit was washing away metalizer with the excess of the wash. 3. If oil washes are not good, should I look for something else? I was recommended a water wash - but I cannot find this kind of wash in Polish shops... Maybe I'll try to do a water wash myself - out of water, dishwashing fluid and paints used by kids in school (no idea how are they called in English;))? 4. The same questions as regards weathering. I guess what I'm trying to establish is how to make good natural metal finish, with wash and weathering, without loosing the natural metal look, using alclad (or maybe other metalizers are better - like gunze's super metallic). I do have sealer for metalizer from model master (and their metalizers). It looks ok but to be honest you loose "metal" look after spraying. It is good enough for exhausts, but to make a whole model this way - you could use reguar paint instead I think...
  25. Weathering a cockpit floor

    Hi all ... I'm starting my second build and I'd like some advice on how to achieve the required result. I'm building an EE Lightening and I'd like to achieve a wethered / worn effect on the cockpit floor. This is the first time I've tried this (learning as I go) so any advice appreciated. Here's a link to an image I'm working from And here is the basic coat on the sprue Any help appreciated on how to achieve the "worn floor" effect. It won't be easily seen in the finished model but it's a good excercise for me to start with in learning new tips and tricks. Thanks for looking