Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Weathering'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Calendars

  • Community Calendar
  • Group Builds
  • Model Show Calendar

Forums

  • Site Help & Support
    • FAQs
    • Help & Support
    • New Members
    • Announcements
  • Aircraft Modelling
    • Military Aircraft Modelling Discussion by Era
    • Civil Aircraft Modelling Discussion by Era
    • Work in Progress - Aircraft
    • Ready for Inspection - Aircraft
    • Aircraft Related Subjects
  • AFV Modelling (armour, military vehicles & artillery)
    • Armour Discussion by Era
    • Work in Progress - Armour
    • Ready for Inspection - Armour
    • Armour Related Subjects
    • large Scale AFVs (1:16 and above)
  • Maritime Modelling (Ships and subs)
    • Maritime Discussion by era
    • Work in Progress - Maritime
    • Ready for Inspection - Maritime
  • Vehicle Modelling (non-military)
    • Vehicle Discussion
    • Work In Progress - Vehicles
    • Ready For Inspection - Vehicles
  • Science Fiction & RealSpace
    • Science Fiction Discussion
    • RealSpace Discussion
    • Work In Progress - SF & RealSpace
    • Ready for Inspection - SF & RealSpace
  • Figure Modelling
    • Figure Discussion
    • Figure Work In Progress
    • Figure Ready for Inspection
  • Dioramas, Vignettes & Scenery
    • Diorama Chat
    • Work In Progress - Dioramas
    • Ready For Inspection - Dioramas
  • Reviews, News & Walkarounds
    • Reviews
    • Current News
    • Build Articles
    • Tips & Tricks
    • Walkarounds
  • Modelling
    • Group Builds
    • The Rumourmonger
    • Other Modelling Genres
    • Britmodeller Yearbooks
    • Tools & Tips
  • General Discussion
    • Chat
    • Shows
    • Photography
    • Members' Wishlists
  • Shops, manufacturers & vendors
    • Air-craft.net
    • A.M.U.R. Reaver
    • Atlantic Models
    • Bernd.M Modellbau
    • BlackMike Models
    • Casemate UK
    • Copper State Models
    • Creative Models Ltd
    • DACO Products
    • Freightdog Models
    • Hannants
    • Hobby Colours & Accessories
    • Hobby Paint'n'Stuff
    • Hypersonic Models
    • Iliad Design
    • Japan:Cool
    • Kagero Publishing
    • Kingkit
    • L'Arsenal 2.0
    • Modellingtools.co.uk
    • Maketar Paint Masks
    • Marmaduke Press Decals
    • MikroMir
    • MJW Models
    • The Hobby Shack
    • NeOmega & Vector Resin
    • Parkes682Decals
    • Pheon Models
    • Pocketbond Limited
    • Precision Ice and Snow
    • Radu Brinzan Productions
    • Red Roo Models
    • RES/KIT
    • SBS Model - Hungary
    • Scale-Model-Kits.com
    • Small Stuff Models
    • Sovereign Hobbies
    • Special Hobby
    • Sphere Products
    • Starling Models
    • Thunderbird Models
    • Tiger Hobbies
    • Tirydium Models
    • Topnotch - Bases and Masks for Models
    • Ultimate Modelling Products
    • Valiant Wings Publishing
    • Videoaviation Italy
    • White Ensign Models
    • Wonderland Models
  • Archive
    • 2007 Group Builds
    • 2008 Group Builds
    • 2009 Group Builds
    • 2010 Group Builds
    • 2011 Group Builds
    • 2012 Group Builds
    • 2013 Group Builds

Categories

  • New Features
  • Other

Found 47 results

  1. Hello dear friends. I present you with my latest build that has been completed for the float plane group build that can be found here. (link to add) I ended up taking quit a lot more pics than needed hence this post but I though I'd share anyway. Hopefully you'll like them. We have for you today the.... Catalina PBY-5 "BLACK CAT" by Academy. She has been a venture into black paint schemes, salt weathering and many more new techniques that I'll strap in the old brain box for future builds. The WIP can be found here. WIP And the Gallery for the GB can be found here. Gallery I have also managed to squeeze in an RFI for my last build of the HPO400 "Last Days" that can be found here if you're interested. HP O/400 RFI Without further annoyance from my jabbering here she is. AAAAAnd there you go. Thank you fellow Britmodellers for letting me once again indulge my flights of fancy and post about a zillion pics of my latest endeavours into plastic and lead shot. Hope you have a great Sunday. I need to choose a new kit to build over Chrimbleton. Merry Christmas to you all. Johnny Cat.
  2. Make your own panel washes?

    So... I've been trying to find a stockist of Tamiya Panel Line Accents, both black and brown, and MIG Streaking Grime in the UK that doesn't charge mouth watering prices. The prices abroad seem to be far cheaper (e.g. Passion132 do MIG streaking grime for just under €4 as opposed to over £7, but unfortunately you have to factor in shipping which then kills the saving). Then I had a thought; can I not just buy a tin of Humbrol gloss enamel and thin down as required? Are the panel line washes not just extremely thinned down ordinary enamel paints? If so, then I just need a tin of Humbrol gloss black 21 and gloss tan 9 for the two Tamiya panel line accent colours above? Does anyone know how to make an equivalent of MIG Streaking Grime?
  3. Mig Ammo restock.....

    Hi, We've just received a restock from Mig.Ammo. There are a number of new products in with the general restocks. 20 new oil brusher colours, plus seven oilbrusher sets. Mig.ammo oilbrushers  - Sets & individual colours. Will hopefully have the 2 new RAF, muds and waters on the site tomorrow. Paul
  4. Hi guys. This will be my first ever Group build. I'm very excited as this will be the closest thing to the Gloster Meteor dual build I did with @TheBaron last year. I have some ideas on what I'm going to do but I need to finish of my HP o/400 first. (next few days) I'll pop a pic of the box here as a kind of popping my flag in the sand. Hopefully you can join along with this and help an old dog (or should that be cat? ) out here and there along the way. I'll pop a bit more info and some pics once the old "page turner" is done and dusted. Take care y'all and Happy Modelling. Johnny. ps. this will be my little companion through this build, seems rather apt.
  5. I've been interested in N Gauge railway modelling for many years but never really had the time or space to build a layout. It hasn't stopped me building up a good stock of rolling stock. I enjoy weathering and here is a selection of some that I've completed over the last few years. Thanks for looking. Cheers
  6. Hello I have been trying to get a bottle of Tamiya Panel Line Accent brown or black here in the UK but with no luck. Is there an alternative to this for highlighting panel lines?
  7. Ok so I am building this machine and if you look at the wing tanks they are somewhat weathered! I want to do likewise and wondered how I did this? Hair spray method? If so how do I do it? thanks Chris
  8. Extreme Weathering Show - 21st May 2017

    Now all the discussions about the show are complete, this is the show as we have it today..... EXTREME WEATHERING is our new show and replaces AUTOMODELLISMO that has run for the past six years. The date is Sunday 21st May 2017 at the usual HaMeX Events venue. Hanslope Village Hall, Newport Road, Hanslope, Bucks MK19 7NZ Start 10.00am The new show will concentrate on finishing your models - using weathering, texturing, washes, and airbrushing techniques, all demonstrated by a number of invited experts in their field. This detailing will apply to the models themselves, and also to finishing bases and dioramas. We aim that most modelling subjects will be covered – aircraft, military, cars and vehicles in general, plus space, science fiction and fantasy. Currently we plan six Demonstration Stations in the Main Hall, with space in front for people to sit or stand to watch the action, and we hope, to ask questions and maybe take part in the demos. Each base will have examples of the work on display.... and may be a few things for sale. There will also be a traders present, with a range of weathering materials, and maybe to tempt you with a kit of some new modelling subject! The Small Hall will feature a display and demonstrations from the New City SMC. There is also the possibility of fitting a couple more Demo Stations in there. The line up of demonstrators is currently as follows - although may change if people are not available due to professional commitments. Richard Franks (Valiant Wings ) : Airbrushing and weathering aircraft Mike Tucker [Provisional] : Finishing SFX miniatures. How the professionals weather, distress and generally ‘dirty down’ models for filming. http:// http://www.themodelunit.co.uk/ Kev Green : Airbrushing basics and using masks in airbrushing http:// https://www.facebook.com/kevgreen.images/posts/10154556379564171 Chris Simmons : Figures and SF Michelle Edwards : Basic AFV weathering techniques Mat Irvine : Cars and vehicles – with an emphasis on materials for diorama bases http:// http://www.matirvine.com/ New City SMC will be based in the Small Hall, with displays and demos. This is the first time we have run this show, so we have tried to leave things as open as possible, so we can get dialogue between attendees and the demonstrators. If you come along, speak up if you want to know about a specific technique, or how to solve a weathering and finishing problem you have. We will be producing a form, so people can give us feedback on the show and what they would like to see on the demo menu for the next time we run the event. We have free parking as normal, (the side car park is newly paved), and the K-9 Café will be open as usual. There will also be a raffle with the main prize being £50 of weathering materials. As we have demonstrators’ expenses to pay, entry will be a little more than for a standard HaMeX show, to reflect the extra costs. Entry is £5 per person, but this will include one ticket for a free tea or coffee from the K-9 Café and one free raffle ticket for a bundle of weathering materials. (more tickets can also be purchased.) More to be added when we have it. Thanks, Paul
  9. Weathering Aircraft Magazine - BASE Colors Ammo by Mig Jimenez I have now seen a few weathering magazines from AMMO and it is good to see the quality of both the printing and content is not falling off in any way. This issues deals with the BASE colour used on a model and how that effects the overall weathering process. It also helps when you have a model that is all over one colour, or a couple of major colours. Models covered in this issue are an F-117A, Bf 109, Red Arrows Hawk, F-14, Zero, Horten 229, P-38J; and Star Wars Starfighter N-1. The volume shows how important the base coat is to achieving the final look, and to what may go on top, and how that affects things. The various authors give a good account of the techniques used to achieve the required look. The pictures are clear and the accompanying text lays out the processes used to accomplish the finished models. Its up to the reader how far they take things. If nothing else the magazine give food for thought on how far the modeller wants to go with weathering. Conclusion This looks to be a very useful publication, although in magazine format the print quality is more like a book. Dealing how a base coat affects your final model it shows you what can be achieved in miniature. Overall a high quality publication. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  10. Hi all, I have just finished doing some streaking (paint, not naked) with artist's oils and I still have more to do. I want to do some final weathering with pencils, pastels, etc. The question is how long do you need to wait before applying a top coat? The coat I have been paining over is gloss. The terpenoid thinner I have been using has dulled a lot of it but I am not finished yet and need to apply a final dull/matte coat.
  11. Tamiya Weathering Master Powders

    Hi all! I'm new to this - can the areas to where I have used this product then be masked with Tamiya tape for airbrushing? Or do I need to "fix" the weathering - jet pipe burns and "blue" in this case - with a varnish coat before masking? Thanks as always. Martin
  12. Sun bleached weathering

    Hi all, I looking to the collective for advice a guidance. I've been modelling on and off since the mid 1960s but I've not really considered weathering until much recently. I practice and bit and then try it out on my builds. I am now wanting to portray a Super Sabre in standard US two greens/tan/grey but where the paint has been bleached by the sun. What techniques work best for this? I am considering the following: 1. standard paint pattern but all upper paints with a dot of white or sand added, just to lighten it slightly, 2. using a flory sand to accentuate certain areas 3. use a Tamiya weathering paste set to again accentuate Would that work? I wondered about a very very light dust with a weak sand paint mixed? I'd appreciate your guidance and thoughts. Thanks. Martin
  13. Hello My friends, Here is my Hasegawa's F-14D Tomcat with markings for VF-2. Its for an article about weathering on the Naval Jets. Hope you enjoy.
  14. Hello! After finishing my third model as part of the P-51 Mustang Group Build (link), I have decided to take some "risk" by taking one of the kits on my stash and try a few things I've been researching during a few months on the web and youtube related to painting and weathering techniques. I know that there are many other ways of finishing a model, but the ones I'm interested on are the following: - Priming - pre shading - post shading - chipping - oil washes - pastels The victim for this little project is a Focke-Wulf Fw190A-8 from Airfix in 1/72. Nice kit so far, not the best fit to say the least but it will serve the purpose. The paints I'll be using are only Tamiya acrylics, and I'm fully aware of the need of mixing these to approach to the RLM colors, but that would exceed the purpose of what I'm trying to do here. So I will only use the closest colors to my references, but I'm not trying to achieve any historical accuracy on this one. The primer is Tamiya grey and the silver for the chipping will be AS12 decanted and airbrushed. Clear coats will be future, X22 and XF86. For the chipping I plan to use liquid mask from Microscale products. Please feel free to correct me or suggest other ways and alternatives to do things at any moment. My intention posting this here is to have the chance to keep learning and I'm willing to know your opinions and ideas. So here are some shots of the process so far: Dry fit test and cockpit parts ready for painting: cockpit painted After first coat of primer So there she is so far, I'll update as soon as I have some progress. Thank you, Jorge
  15. Oil Brusher Paints AMMO of Mig Jiménez Using oils for weathering effects is hardly a new technique, but it has been occasionally hit-and-miss if you happen to buy the wrong oils with gritty pigment, or forget to let the oils "breathe" on a piece of card to wick away the excess oil that slows down drying and makes it harder to achieve certain effects. The lead foil tubes and their caps can also be an impediment, as they are prone to sticking in place if not used frequently, and we have all probably twisted a tube badly whilst trying to undo it at some point. Then there's finding a good brush to apply the paint, cleaning it afterward etc. etc. It can all be a bit of a faff. You know what's coming next, don't you? Let me introduce you to the new AMMO Oil Brusher system. Not the most exciting brand name, but very descriptive. These tubular pots of oil paint have been formulated not to need any oily residue wicking away, and the long black cap has a captive brush with a stiff set of bristles that works rather well. There is a scraper-lip inside the neck that removes the excess paint, and leaves the brush with just about the right amount of paint for the job in hand. The body of the bottle is clear so it's easy to see which bottle you have hold of, and there are 21 shades in the range at launch, with more on the way I'm sure. The screw cap coupled with the rigid body should prevent any clogging down the line, and if the lid does seize, there's plenty to get hold of to apply your massive forearm strength to. If that doesn't work, just run some hot water over the lid to soften any residue. Below are the available shades at launch: A.MIG.3500 Black A.MIG.3511 Red Primer A.MIG.3501 White A.MIG.3512 Dark Brown A.MIG.3502 Yellow A.MIG.3513 Starship Filth A.MIG.3503 Red A.MIG.3514 Earth A.MIG.3504 Dark Blue A.MIG.3515 Ochre A.MIG.3505 Olive Green A.MIG.3516 Dust A.MIG.3506 Field Green A.MIG.3517 Buff A.MIG.3507 Dark Green A.MIG.3518 Sunny Flesh A.MIG.3508 Dark Mud A.MIG.3519 Light Flesh A.MIG.3509 Medium Grey A.MIG.3520 Basic Flesh A.MIG.3510 Rust Following the initial releases, the intended subject matter has broadened with the colour range erring toward Sci-Fi, as evidenced by the Warhammer 40K and Gundam themed names of some of the more recent colours, which meshes with the (fairly) recent book and paint set releases that have firmly placed AMMO in the Sci-Fi miniature and modelling arena. This should attract a larger customer base from the widening of genre, although the Warhammer 40K guys are used to everything being available from their own shops, so that may be a tougher market to crack. To save you craning your neck due to the increased slant of the bottles in the picture, and risking injury, the colours are as follows: A.MIG.3523 Dusty Earth A.MIG.3531 Mecha Dark Green A.MIG.3525 Red Tile A.MIG.3532 Starship Bay Sludge A.MIG.3526 Space Purple A.MIG.3538 Silver A.MIG.3527 Marine Blue Clearly my test wasn't exhaustive, but was enough for me to get an idea of how the pigments would work. I experimented with streaking, shading, and "general grime", and considering the unsympathetic base colour white, the results were promising. Thanks as usual to my 1:72 He.111 wing for putting up with my experimentations. The thinners I used was some old stuff I had lying around but should give a fair representation. You will (as mentioned) need some high quality low odour thinners to blend the oils once applied, whether it is to shade an area, or to effect the oil-dot technique, but if you don't already have some on hand, AMMO have a 100ml bottle that is specifically designed for use with their products here. In use the pigment is dense, and finely ground so that gritty finishes aren't a concern, allowing you to streak, blend and paint without worry, whilst applying only as much as you wish to. Oddly, there is no fill level noted on either the bottle or the accompanying literature, but I found that they hold 10ML whilst rooting around their site. You can buy the full set or individually as you need them, but you may want to consider getting one of the new organisers that have been designed to fit the full 21, and has been laser cut from fine MDF with a white surface finish and the AMMO logo at the front. Highly recommended. Oil Brushers Organizer Enamel Thinners Review sample courtesy of
  16. Using oil paint for weathering...

    Hey guys - I want to try using oils for weathering washes. Any tips? Doesn't the oil take an age to dry? Do you just use 'standard' oil paint from the tubes? Thinners?
  17. Weathering Aircraft Magazine - Chipping Ammo by Mig Jimenez This is now the second Weathering Magazine from Ammo that I have seen, and this seems to be of the same high quality. There are 66 pages of glossy high quality paper in an A4 format, all in colour. As the title would suggest this edition concentrates on paint chipping seen in various degrees on aircraft. In addition to photos of the real thing there are models from different eras and genres showing off the techniques. These include a French Navy Corsair, Russian operated Hurricane, Japanese Ki-84; and a Star Wars Y-Wing among the builds featured. The different authors show different styles of chipping, though as the title suggests Ammo products feature. Conclusion This looks to be a very useful publication, although in magazine format the print quality is more like a book. Overall a high quality publication. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  18. Morning all! I've always rather liked the Gulf War Tornado ZA465- otherwise known as Foxy Killer and so it would have been absurd if I was to pass up the opportunity to model this fabulous example of British aviation. Kit: Revell 1:72 Tornado Gr.1 (From my LMS- Mike's Models) Extras: Print Scale- Tornado Gr.1 Gulf War nose art (From Hannants) -Scratchbuilt RBF tags made from paper and FOD covers made from tissue paper. Paints Used: Vallejo: Black, White, Medium Olive, Barley Grey, Red. The "Desert Pink" colour was created from a variety of Vallejo paints mixed together. AK Interactive Dust Wash used for weathering the wheels *Note: I can't guarantee that this model is entirely accurate: Thanks for having a look! Kind regards, Sam
  19. Weathering Magazine - What If Ammo by Mig Jimenez This is the first Weathering Magazine from Ammo that I have seen, but I have had sight of some of their other publications and this seems to be of the same quality. There are 77 pages of glossy high quality paper in an A4 format. These cover 3 Tanks, 2 aircraft, 1 flying saucer (well it is what if!), a Tie Fighter; and one Mech alternative history idea. There are also 5 pages of "What if" ideas to spark some imagination. The pictures are clear and the accompanying text lays out the processes the contributing modellers used to accomplish the finished models. Conclusion This looks to be a very useful publication, although in magazine format the print quality is more like a book. Even though dealing with "what if" subjects the techniques are equally at home with other subjects. Overall a high quality publication. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  20. Hi everyone, I have been lurking on here for a while now looking for tips and pointers; so I finally decided to register and ask questions. I am about to return to modelling after a major 35 year hiatus, but having said that, I am really more of a newbie. I used to build airfix kits and add the water slide transfers and that was pretty much it, any painting was done with a cheap brush and humbrol enamels (and not often at that) I more enjoyed the building. Anyway, looking on here has inspired me (especially the work of Andy Moore; I mean WOW). What I do need is advice. I have been bought the bandai 1/12 scale R2 and BB8 kit and I'm wondering where to start with weathering. The kit is still on its sprues so I have yet to make any kind of start, as for materials I have some Sprue cutters, craft knife and diamond files from some of my day job tools (I'm an engineer - mainly in the aircraft and submarines industries; 3 colour smoke pod in the red arrows hawk is some of my work). So, where do I start - I want to build the kits and start to introduce some grime to each droid, bit of dust for bb8 and some oily type grime for R2. Help?
  21. Liquid Pigment Sets LifeColor I've been a LifeColor user for some years now, and I really like their handy boxsets that include pretty much all you need to accomplish a task. These new sets are a bit of a new thing however, as they profess to be "Liquid Pigments", which is a new term to me. They are odourless, and can be washed off with water if wet, or removed using a special Remover liquid once dry. This gives the modeller a lot of leeway in weathering their model, applying effects here and there, or all over and then cutting any over application back as needed. They apply on a satin or gloss surface for best effect, and there is no stipulation of enamel or acrylic paint, so they're good to go for all surfaces. Each set contains six bottles with green lids containing 22ml of product, which I suspect will go a long way if used sparingly, and can be thinned with water if a more subdued effect is required. You can apply the liquid with a paintbrush or airbrush to achieve different effects, so their usefulness is quite varied. They are also able to be used as filters if diluted, and you can mix the colours together to obtain new shades for a specific use. If you decide to put a different colour over the original application, you'll need to fix it with a coat of varnish so that the shades don't bleed together, so you'd better be happy with the original coat before you fix it! The Remover is included in each set, and is a clear almost odourless liquid with just a faint hint of the chemicals that make it up. This is probably best used with a brush or cotton bud to remove any excess pigment after it has dried. The sets are themed for a particular subject, and are aimed primarily at Armour modeller, although like so many modelling techniques they would be equally at home on a heavily weathered aircraft, ship, vehicle or diorama. Brief instructions are given on the back of each box in Italian and English, with a few colour photos of the process to assist you in understanding their use. Detail Emphasiser (LP01) Contains: LPW01 Burnt Umber, LPW02 Black Umber, LPW03 Burned Olive Green, LPW04 Black Grey, LPW05 Colonial Dark Sand, RE Remover. Rust Wizard (LP02) Contains: LPW06 Deep Rust, LPW07 Eroding Light Rust, LPW08 Eroding Dark Rust, LPW09 Orange Marks, LPW10 Yellow Marks, RE Remover. Rain and Dust Makeup (LP03) Contains: LPW11 Rain Marks, LPW12 Road Dust, LPW13 Light Earth, LPW14 Dark Dust, LPW15 Soot, RE Remover. Hulls & Wooden Decks (LP04) Contains: LPW16 Fouling Green. LPW17 Surfaces Shadower, LPW18 Wooden Deck Darkener, LPW19 Wooden Deck Shadower, LPW20 Dried Salt, RE Remover. Wings & Fuselages Detail Emphasizer (LP06) Contains: LPW26 Black Liner, LPW27 Grey Liner, LPW28 Paynes Grey Liner, LPW29 Landing Gear Dust, LPW30 Blue Burned Exhaust, RE Remover. You can purchase the sets, or get individual colours to either suit your needs or top-up your sets after use, as well as getting the Remover separately in case you run out. Conclusion I haven't had chance to use these yet, so will report back when I have. That said however, LifeColor do make some good products, and I'm not expecting to be disappointed. I'm actually looking forward to using them – now where did I put that Jagdpanzer IV? Review sample courtesy of
  22. My wife got me P-47, in the pipeline there are also mustang and mig-21. All require part- or all- natural metal finish. I often see good models made this way. I wonder, how to make them this good. Standard paints allow to apply camo->acrylic clear gloss->decals->gloss again->oil/enamel pinwash and other oils etc. I will probably use alclads II since the choice of colours is quite big and I know the quality is good. There are some questions I'd like to ask. 1. Should I coat alclad with clear paint (clear gloss I assume)? how to apply decals? Directly onto alclad? Should I secure decals with another layer of clear? 2. How does alclad react to oil wash and white spirit? I tried it on model master metalizers and I cannot say it was a success - white spirit was washing away metalizer with the excess of the wash. 3. If oil washes are not good, should I look for something else? I was recommended a water wash - but I cannot find this kind of wash in Polish shops... Maybe I'll try to do a water wash myself - out of water, dishwashing fluid and paints used by kids in school (no idea how are they called in English;))? 4. The same questions as regards weathering. I guess what I'm trying to establish is how to make good natural metal finish, with wash and weathering, without loosing the natural metal look, using alclad (or maybe other metalizers are better - like gunze's super metallic). I do have sealer for metalizer from model master (and their metalizers). It looks ok but to be honest you loose "metal" look after spraying. It is good enough for exhausts, but to make a whole model this way - you could use reguar paint instead I think...
  23. Weathering a cockpit floor

    Hi all ... I'm starting my second build and I'd like some advice on how to achieve the required result. I'm building an EE Lightening and I'd like to achieve a wethered / worn effect on the cockpit floor. This is the first time I've tried this (learning as I go) so any advice appreciated. Here's a link to an image I'm working from And here is the basic coat on the sprue Any help appreciated on how to achieve the "worn floor" effect. It won't be easily seen in the finished model but it's a good excercise for me to start with in learning new tips and tricks. Thanks for looking
  24. Hello Britmodeller, In April 2015 I decided to find out what would happen to a model if it was weathered naturally. So I set to converting an old table into a runway, took one of my lesser models and mounted it, then left it out in a garden for just over seven months through a British spring and summer. In that time it experienced all the weathers that one would expect in this climate and a few unexpected ones. Having no real idea of what would happen it seemed a worthwhile experiment. I chose this.. This is my model of XM655 as it appeared on the day the experiment began. All in all it is not a very good Vulcan but I was very new to modelling when I built it so I thought it would be an ideal test subject. Each month or so I visited and took some pictures, if you missed that then here's the link below. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234979698-vulcan-xm655-a-natural-weathering-experiment-with-completed/?hl=xm655 The original idea was to leave it outside for a year or perhaps more, but I decided to end the experiment a little early due to concerns over it passing from weathered to destroyed. Yesterday it was brought back home, or rescued if you like and some photos were taken. Looking at the above images I wouldn't blame you for wondering if I was mistaken that it was passing from weathered to destroyed, but as we look closer you will see where my concerns came from. My main concern was the paint work, the peeling in places was starting to get quite bad. Below you can see some of the smaller problems areas... All of these on their own aren't so bad, but there were areas suffering a little more... Here you can see where the roundel used to be it is peeling quite badly.. And on the left airbrake. But all over the Vulcan it can be seen that the Humbrol Matt-Cote has made it very spotty and in places it is letting go altogether... Here on the nose, patches missing. Around and above the intake.. The wing leading edges. The tail cone.. A curious pattern just near to one of the antennas All over the top... As you've seen from these images, not many of the decals have survived on the upper surfaces but on the belly it's a different story. No decals have been lost from the underside at all. But still the same pattern of deterioration in the Matt-Cote can be seen (plus the brown varnish which the whole thing was covered in at it's build time). Since this paint is light aircraft grey and it's quite dirty it's not completely clear, so below you can see some shots deliberately underexposed with a strategically placed light source.. It isn't as extensive as the upper surfaces, just happening a little slower I suspect. So the underside could have survived a year for sure, maybe more. One thing I was hoping for was paint fade but this didn't really occur, but one thing I did notice when taking these pictures - In one place the tone has changed slightly... Have a look at the green paint on the tail and compare. The tone seems a little warmer compared to the upper wing surfaces. Finally some points of interest... Dirt has made it all the way into the intakes. ..And all the way under (or above) the ECM plates.. Also in one intake, a non-scale web... All in all a successful first test I think. When I began this experiment I did rush it a little. I decided to re-coat the Vulcan in Matt-Cote before I sent it to the garden but I didn't give it enough time to fully dry or cure. On top of that I later found out the the materials added to it to make it a Matt finish are actually porous. This probably accounts for why it deteriorated so quickly. I had hoped that it would make it to a year at least, for the first month or so it went quite well. Now this Vulcan will sit with pride rather than being a poorly finished early attempt of mine and will be protected from nature. I may at some point attempt a replacement of the wing roundel decals, but other than that I won't be doing anything further. Since this experiment was ended early I've decided that another Vulcan will take the weathering test, and so when I removed this one from its mount I put another one in its place but this time with a gloss finish, properly dried. Look out for that in the Work In Progress section soon. In the meantime, thanks for looking.. Adam
  25. Good day all, I'm just about to start my second model and I've been reading the forums to try to figure out in what order to do things while building a model. However ... it seems that there are a number of ways of doing things and a multitude of techniques and products. So for us new or returning to the modelling game I'd like to see if we can produce something like a modelling 101 ... the basics. Sticking with things more readily available in your local HobbyCraft, for example, is one way to get people started and to a good finish on a model without being overwhelmed by the options out there. So ..... Here's where I'm at before I start my next model. Can some of you more experienced modellers (most of you lol) help guide me through my thinking and advise on where I'm missunderstanding various steps. Step 1 - Priming. I'm using Humbrol Enamel Paints on Airfix kits. Is priming needed or will the enamel paints adhere well to clean plastic? Step 2 - Painting detailed parts. As stated I'm starting with Humbrol Enamel paints. Shaking the paints to death seems to be needed a lot but does work. I'm applying the paint by hand with various brushes but how many coats of enamel should be needed ? Also if the paint seems to be running a little thin is this just a case of needing to shake a little more ? Avoiding painting the surfaces where glue is to be applied is also a must or components won't fit. Step 3 - Assembly. I've worked out that glasswork needs to be added after the exterior painting is completed so the bits under the glasswork are the right colour. So slow assembly of the model needs to take place. Humbrol filler can be used to fill in any imperfections in the joins and then smoothed off. Fine emery boards are good for smoothing away the bits left after removing the parts from the mouldings. Step 4 - Paint glasswork Step 5 - Coat glasswork in Humbrol Clear Step 6 - Add glasswork decals Step 7 - Again coat glasswork in Humbrol Clear to seal Step 8 - Paint assembled bodywork Step 9 - Seal bodywork with Humbrol Clear Step 10 - Apply decals Step 11 - Seal decals with Humbrol Clear Step 12 - Apply weathering effects using weathering powders watered down with some Humbro thinners. Build up effect slowly and wash down with thinners and a cotton bud. Step 13 - Have a coffee Now the above is where i'm currently at as a basic walk through on how to get your modelling restarted but I'm open to comments and suggestions. I'll also try to add the next build into the work in progress thread so I can pick up advice along the way. I'm trying to keep things simple but effective for starters so if I'm way off on something then please let me know. Would appreciate the help/advice Thanks Dave.
×