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    • Mike

      PhotoBucket are no longer permitting 3rd party hosting   01/07/17

      As most of you are now painfully aware, Photobucket (PB) are stopping/have stopped allowing their members to link their accumulated years of photos into forums and the like, which they call 3rd party linking.  You can give them a non-refundable $399 a year to allow links, but I doubt that many will be rushing to take them up on that offer.  If you've previously paid them for the Pro account, it looks like you've got until your renewal to find another place to host your files, but you too will be subject to this ban unless you fork over a lot of cash.   PB seem to be making a concerted move to another type of customer, having been the butt of much displeasure over the years of a constantly worsening user interface, sloth and advertising pop-ups, with the result that they clearly don't give a hoot about the free members anymore.  If you don't have web space included in your internet package, you need to start looking for another photo host, but choose carefully, as some may follow suit and ditch their "free" members at some point.  The lesson there is keep local backups on your hard drive of everything you upload, so you can walk away if the same thing happens.   There's a thread on the subject here, so please use that to curse them, look for solutions or generall grouse about their mental capacity.   Not a nice situation for the forum users that hosted all their photos there, and there will now be a host of useless threads that relied heavily on photos from PB, but as there's not much we can do other than petition for a more equitable solution, I suggest we make the best of what we have and move on.  One thing is for certain.  It won't win them any friends, but they may not care at this point.    Mike.

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Found 9 results

  1. Revell

    Fw 190D-9 1:48 Revell The Fw.190 was designed by Kurt Tank, and initially gave the RAF a bit of a fright when it first appeared. The D, or Dora, was often known as the "Long nose" due to the elongated nose cowling to accommodate the liquid cooled Jumo 213A engine. It came into production in late 1944, and over 1800 examples were manufactured before the end of the war. The Kit Even though this is a Revell box the plastic inside is from Eduard. There are 5 sprues of grey plastic, one clear sprure and a small decal sheet. Construction starts with the cockpit. Instrument panels sides are added to the cockpit tub along with the control colum, side parts and then the main instrument panel. The seat is added along with the rudder pedals. Forward of the cockpit is the nose machine gun bay, which can be detailed with a large number of parts if it is to be left open, or with the omission of the MGs and their ammo boxes, the bay can be closed up with the use of a pair of MG stubs that glue into the bay cover. As the engine ancillary units (including the super-charger and engine mounts) are in the same bay as the MGs, it may be as well to leave open the MG bay, to show off the nicely rendered parts. The main part of the engine is not depicted in this kit, but the exhaust stacks are mounted from the inside of the fuselage in their own boxes, and are held in place by the front bulkhead of the MG bay. The detailer will need to open up the exhaust stubs to add a little realism here. Once these are installed, the modeller can close up the fuselage. The wing underside is a single piece unit, with a long spar running along the back of the landing gear bay, to which additional ribs are added to detail the gear bays themselves. The wing mounted cannons go through the bays here, and must be added at this point due to their tapering shape. It may be wise to chop off the last section and replace it later in the build with a piece of fine tubing if you are a tad clumsy like this reviewer. The upper halves of the wings can have the cannon bays left open to expose the breeches of the 151/20 cannons, or if left closed, a blanking section can be substituted. The flaps are moulded integrally, but the flying surfaces can be posed at an angle to give a little extra visual interest, and are added after the wing halves are joined. The whole wing is then offered up to the underside of the fuselage, so plenty of test fitting would be sensible here. The rear empennage is standard, irrespective of which tail you have opted for, and the rudder is pose able, while the horizontal tails fit to the fuselage with a large attachment tab, so should stay horizontal with very little trouble. The landing gear on the 190 is long and canted in slightly, which is shown by the helpful diagram, and the modeller has a choice of two wheel types here with either smooth or treaded tyres. The wheels themselves should be installed at an 8o angle to the oleo strut, which would be fun to measure, if it weren't for the 1:1 scale drawing that is provided - good idea, Eduard! The retraction jacks fix within the bay to large contact points, so a strong landing gear should be the result. The modeller can choose to pose the cowling flaps open or closed, which are provided as separate rings that slot in behind the main cowling onto a large cylindrical spacer. The super-charger intake is installed at this point, as are the gun troughs on the forward fuselage. The nose gun bay cover is installed, along with the wing mounted gun bay covers, which if modelled closed, receive a nice set of PE piano type hinges once installed. Although the clear sprue includes four canopies, only two are actually used, with the choice being open or closed. The head-rest & armour is installed in the canopy, as well as a tiny PE grab handle, and a standard windscreen mounts over the coaming to complete construction, other than choosing to mount a bomb or fuel tank on the centre line pylon. Decals The smallish sheet is printed in Italy for Revell and should pose no problems. As it is Revell no swastikas are provided. There are two decal options provided; Werk Nr 500666, II./JG 301, Erfurt-Nord, May 1945 Werk Nr 210194, I./JG 2, Aachen, 1 January 1945 Conclusion Quality plastic from Eduard, and quality decals from Revell so you cant go wrong. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  2. Hi everyone, So 2/3rd through my Fieseler Storch build I started work on my first Dora. The main thing I was experimenting with, was post shading in a multiple colour camouflage scheme as I had never done this before. Nothing added to this kit, out of box, only opened up the gun barrels on the nose and replaced the wing barrels with stainless steel rod. Paint used was Model Master enamels for the camo and Tamiya for the interior and wheels, Vallejo for the "Defence of the Reich" bands....oh and I forgot to put a wash on after I clear coated it! Doh!!! Things I learned: 1) Yellow paint takes a gazillion coats to cover.... 2) There is a reason why you have to wait for a Dora's wheels to dry after you stuck them on, otherwise they turn out all wonky like mine. Please criticize away, especially about the post shading.
  3. Hi everyone, So 2/3rd through my Fieseler Storch build I started work on my first Dora. The main thing I was experimenting with, was post shading in a multiple colour camouflage scheme as I had never done this before. Nothing added to this kit, out of box, only opened up the gun barrels on the nose and replaced the wing barrels with stainless steel rod. Paint used was Model Master enamels for the camo and Tamiya for the interior and wheels, Vallejo for the "Defence of the Reich" bands....oh and I forgot to put a wash on after I clear coated it! Doh!!! Things I learned: 1) Yellow paint takes a gazillion coats to cover.... 2) There is a reason why you have to wait for a Dora's wheels to dry after you stuck them on, otherwise they turn out all wonky like mine. Please criticize away, especially about the post shading.
  4. Gosh I had trouble figuring out what to build for this GB, it's safe to say I have changed my mind many times, right up to the stage where I had almost finished this starting thread. I had been already to build an Hs-129B-3 (75mm version) and full AM bits and pieces including vector resin engines! But I was doing some final research as I was writing up the thread when everything changed. For some reason I was never quite sure if the Fw-190D’s were used against the Soviets and to what level and thought it would be a bit hard on the research side…..but I was wrong (there were actually even some of the big wing Ta-152H’s were used as well!). So with this new info at hand I can happily go back to what I had really wanted to build, a Dora! So the base will be Tamiya’s lovely Fw-190 D9, excluding the Su-7, this will be my third Tamiya fighter in a row, I love these models. I normally like to throw lots of AM stuff at my builds but this time I’ll only use just one….. …and what an AM kit it is! Full engine, cockpit and gun bay detail kit…that should keep me busy for a while. The for the scheme I’ll probably do “White 12” from JG301 using the Cutting Edge decal sheet........ ....................though I am very tempted to build one flown by one of the following Russian front aces; Oberleutnant Oskar Romm IV/JG3 – 92 kills Oberleutnant Gerhard Michalski Geschwaderkommodore JG4 – 14 kills (73 in total) Oberst Hans-Ulrich Rudel Geschwaderkommodore SG2 (Legendary Ju87 pilot) - 9 kills Major Gerhard Barkhorn Geschwaderkommodore JG6 – 301 kills
  5. I'm calling this one complete, my 1/48 Hobbyboss FW-190D-9 of II/JG6 in May 1945. using Ultracast's seat and exhaust, Aeromaster decals,and some scratchbuilt detailing. Paint is Tamiya acrylics with oils and pastel weathering. Hope you like, Colin Link to build: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234996206-148-fw-190d-9-and-d-11-double-build-hobbyboss-re-painted-yet-again-march-18th/ Thanks for looking, Colin
  6. I've decaled both the FW-190D-9 and D-11 and clear coated them. Just the final weathering and the flat coat left. Hope you like, Colin link to build: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234996206-148-fw-190d-9-and-d-11-double-build-hobbyboss-re-painted-yet-again-march-18th/
  7. Well folks....here it finally is. If anyone has followed the WIP you'll know how ridiculous this build has been! Things I tried.. Freehand camo RLM colours from Testors Aftermarket decals (spinner spiral OMG!) Metal tubing to replace the plastic guns I am really thankful for the kind and supportive suggestions during the WIP from many many contributors... Even if sometimes the support was just comedic relief! LOL So here you go ... Not perfect ...the spinner spiral does not belong on the build but it was the last of four attempts available on the decal sheet! Stuffed the angle on the internal canopy back plate thingy......should slope forward with the canopy in the closed position Couple of marks on the model have shown up on the images but I'll clean those up no big deal so....I present the Dopey Dora!!! spinner spiral number 4 finally worked Cheers!
  8. Hey guys! Here's my latest completion, Eduard's Fw190D-9 with the Ta152 tail. WIP here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234941449-148-eduard-fw190d-9-late-the-infamous-brown-4/ Okay, a quick rundown of the build: Cockpit: - Ultracast seat - Quickboost control column - Various scratch details - Color PE instrument panel repainted to match cockpit - Coaming pad built up with Mr.Surfacer Exterior: - MDC spinner/prop blades - Quickboost exhaust - Ultracast wheels - Quickboost pitot tube - Aires cowl gun barrels - Hypo tubing for wing root gun barrels - Exhaust shield and wing root stiffeners added from styrene - Tamiya canopy/headrest/armor - Tamiya morane antenna, end replaced with wire - Staple used for DF Loop antenna - Wire used for FuG25 antenna and gear indicators - EZ Line used for aerial antenna wire - Brake lines added from wire - Gun camera drilled out and filled with Krystal Klear for lens - Additional rivets added Paint: - Mr.Color lacquers thinned with Mr.Color Leveling Thinner - Alclads for metal surfaces - Exhaust stain done with Tamiya acrylics - Crosses and swastikas painted on with Montex masks - EagleCals #126 used for remaining markings - Vallejo Matte Varnish for flat coat - Prismacolor colored pencil for light wing root chipping You can also see more here: http://www.facebook.com/BrewerModels
  9. Well this one was ten years in the making. I started it and then went to university, New Zealand etc. and only finished it last month! I must have had a very relaxed approach to sanding and filling back then as the seams are awful but I painted it up anyway. I did attempt a scratchbuilt engine rear/oil header in place of the incorrect 'dimply' wheel wells. Historical accuracy is out of the window - I had some EagleCals decals for a D-11/13 and I really liked the scheme so did it despite the kit being a D-9. Paints are all humbrol/xtracolor enamels and some oil wash, with white for the fabric control surfaces. Radio mast long broken off in storage and haven't bothered to replace it! The decals sheet reckoned top colours of Dunkelgrun and Grauviolett on the wings although I reckon that is rubbish considering the fuselage colours so went with Grauviolett and Lichtgrau. Feel free to correct my wild guesses! Thanks, Chris