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Tail-Dragon

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Tail-Dragon last won the day on April 9 2014

Tail-Dragon had the most liked content!

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About Tail-Dragon

  • Rank
    Established Member
  • Birthday 10/23/1954

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
  • Interests
    W.W.2 Aviation, Armour, Naval and Helo's

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  1. I would recommend the BarracudaCast rocker covers, they are a great improvement, and the cowl fasteners on the rocker covers can be continued all around the cowl with a beading tool (a perfect match). I used them on my Spit XIV and was very happy with the result.
  2. Thanks, I'm not sure if the prop exterior surfaces were wooden, this excerpt is from the Smithsonian Museum on the Rotol 5 bladed prop in their collection ... "Rotol Spitfire Propeller Blade, Constant-Speed, Wood and Metal - A British shortage of duralumin material during World War II led to application of the Schwarz process, where special machinery pressed a hard metal mesh coating and cellulose sheet over the entire propeller primarily consisting of soft wood, usually pine or fir, to produce very hard composite wood blades." I'm following the wear patterns on photos of the actual aircraft, and they do seem to show a metallic sheen, possible from the fine mesh screening surface.
  3. Thanks very much! I know of your conversion, as I was following it at the time with jealousy, and have it saved on my computer. Your excellent work inspired me to attempt mine. Cheers, Colin
  4. Here's my 1/48 Spitfire Mk XIVe highback completed as 'Blackie' MacConnell's mount at the end of the war. I believe he was flying this aircraft when he downed an Arado AR-234 in April, 1945. It started life as an Airfix PR XIX, and was modified extensively to become a Mk XIVe. Decals are from XtraDecal, and Aviaeology stencils. Paints are Tamiya acrylic's, with weathering using Humbrol enamels and pastel chalk. Hope you like, Colin Build log -
  5. Thanks, I used the Rob Taurus Spitfire Mk IX canopy. I had to add an interior framework on the windscreen and sliding canopy, build up the aft fixed canopy sill, also a fillet below the windscreen.
  6. Thanks, I used Tamiya acrylics (XF81 to XF 83) gloss coated with Future and weathered with Humbrol enamels and pastel chalk, flat coated with Tamiya acrylic XF86.
  7. My Spitfire XIVe highback is complete, still finishing the bubbletop. Here's a few photo's of the highback (as a teaser), I'll post more photo's 'ready for inspection' when I get a chance, and photo's of the bubbletop when complete. Hope you like, Colin
  8. Oh, that's looking good! The resin plugs blended in seamlessly! Are you going to add the refueling probe seen in your photo's? That will make it a challenge to find display cabinet space.
  9. I see my error, it's the U.S. props that rotate opposite, the Beaufighter props have a narrower blade! Just trying to figure out what to use when I descend into the madness of my F.M. Halifax. (I should read the previous more closely!)
  10. I'm just wondering … the Beaufighter used Bristol Hercules XVII or XVIII with 1600HP and a prop that rotated clockwise when viewed from aft, yet the Halifax used a Bristol Hercules XVI with 1615HP and the prop rotates counter-clockwise when viewed from aft (from Wikipedia and photo's). Is that correct, and any idea's why the change in rotation for only a 15HP increase? Just curious if anyone knows. Colin
  11. Looking good so far ! On mine, I found it necessary to add 3 large fishing weights to the forward bulkhead with brass wire (where they wouldn't be seen) to prevent a tail sitter, about 43 grams.
  12. I'm looking forward to this build - it will be a challenge. If I may be allowed, a couple of suggestions ... I would consider putting some kind of wing spar in to prevent flexing of the long wing from cracking the upper fuselage seam, I would also suggest bracing the fuselage halves vertically, the Italeri plastic being so thin, it will be easy to squash slightly the fuselage as you handle it and also crack those seams. I can highly recommend the Arma hobbies engines, they are great, just remember to trim 2.5MM off the inboard nacelles on the wing to straighten out all 4 engines (Italeri molded to inboards too far forward). Also you might consider getting resin wheel set as the kit wheels are not good or accurate. They are BIG when finished, hope you have lots of space!
  13. My dual Spitfire build continues, with the decaling done (at last) I've used Xtradecals 48130 Spit Mks XIV-XVIII, X023-48 Squadron codes, Aviaeology A0D48C05 Serial No.s, andA0D48009m Stencils. Flat coat, weathering, and final construction next ... Hope you like so far (link to build -) Colin
  14. Beautifully done, and an outstanding result! Would you be willing to share your files for the 3D printed engine nacelles and the home printed decals so that others could benefit from your excellent work? Thanks, Colin
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