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Tail-Dragon

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Tail-Dragon last won the day on April 9 2014

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About Tail-Dragon

  • Rank
    Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 10/23/1954

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
  • Interests
    W.W.2 Aviation, Armour, Naval and Helo's

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  1. ... a bit more on the Hudson. The wing slots are coming along ... ... and some more structure on the cockpit/navigator positions. There was so much wrong or missing that I might have been farther ahead to scratch build the whole thing. I had to notch my wing spar to clear the radio operator's floor, and add a doubler for strength. I couldn't move the wing spar any farther back, or it wouldn't clear the wheel wells. Now that I have the basic shapes, I can start adding the details. Colin
  2. I know this discussion is about Gunzie, but when it became unavailable where I live, I had to switch to Tamiya. I have been tried different mixes to get an acceptable Dark Earth color with Tamiya Acrylics, and have come up with one that satisfies me. A is Tamiya XF-52 Flat Earth B is Gunzie H72 Dark Earth (original version) C is Tamiya custom mix that appeared in Hyperscale, of 1:XF-72, 1:XF-49, 1:XF-55 D is my mix of Tamiya 2:XF-49 Khaki and 1:XF-52 Flat Earth E is Tamiya XF-81 RAF Dark Green The tops and bottom of the test card are brush painted, the center darker por
  3. More progress. I thought the easiest way to deal with the slots on the wing was to cut out the leading edge at the slots, build up the interior, and re-attach the leading edge. Should work (I hope) ... bit more on the engines, ... and, while everything else was setting up, I've started on the cockpit. The panel was so out of whack, the undersized throttle quadrant would have only been reachable by the Bombardier/Navigator - so the panel was rebuilt, and a new quadrant made (levers to be added later). And the bottom pedestal intruded way to fa
  4. Your right, the codes should be the same size (at least for 7*T) ... . Here's how you can do it with that sheet ..
  5. Is this not what you are looking for? https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/ML48118?result-token=Rh0DT
  6. Thanks for the offer of help!  About the Revell Ventura II,  It's discontinued and not available anywhere around here, and the few that are still in stock seem to be in the U.K. or Europe. With the shipping, they would cost over $100 CDN just for the turret! I have one that I intend to build as an RAF version, so I'm thinking I'll use it's turret as a master to cast a blank, and then vacuform off that. (I have ruined clear parts in the past by trying to vacuform off kit parts!)

     

    P.S.  When I try to PM you, I get a notice saying "Tonyot can not receive messages"

    1. tonyot

      tonyot

      No worries mate,.... I`ll delete a few messages,... the inbox might just be full,.... or you could just reply to this with your e mail addy?

      Cheers

                 Tony

  7. Thanks, It's the Airfix 1/48 ... Tse Tse Mosquito build Tse Tse Mosquito RFI
  8. There is an alternative method that I have used ... get a set of red codes and numbers of the appropriate size (Xtradecal, Aviaeology, Kitsworld etc make them) measure carefully the width of the letter strokes, and add 1/16" per each side and, with good (Tamiya) masking tape on a piece of glass, with a fresh blade cut out the oversized letter. Paint the fuselage white, and apply the tape letter. After all the camo is done and decaling starts , apply the red code letter on top. It works, and with applying a red decal, you can shift it around to get the borders even. As you can see, y
  9. Yes, the Revell Ventura RAF has the correct BP turret. Unfortunately the kit is out of production, sold out on all the vendors I look at, Revell Germany says they have no spare or replacement parts available, and the kit, used, on EvilBay commands absurd prices (far more than you would pay for just the turret). It's a shame, as with that release, Revell had corrected the wrong props on the US release.
  10. I'll probably be doing the Wireless operators position when I get to the fuselage, any help would be appreciated. What is going to give me a headache is vacuforming a Boulton Paul turret. The Classics offering looks kind of like a mushroom!
  11. I just thought I'd share a method I have for creating ignition harnesses for radial engines. I use .030" plasicard and scribe through a hole sized for the crankcase - for a 1/48 Cyclone, I use an 8mm scribe sheild ... ... then I wrap 2 pieces of .032" brass wire around a paint brush handle, on either side of my plastic ... ... sand across, down to the wire, and you have an ignition loom (?) ... next, I'll cut out a small section for the oil tank, and drill #80 holes along the edge to take .010" copper wires, for the ignition wires. You can also s
  12. Nacelle's and wheel well's are almost ready for paint. I decided to split the gear leg in order to add the gear after the nacelle. Makes life a lot easier, especially adding the small tri-angular plate and the leg cover.
  13. That is looking lovely, I still have a hard time believing you brush paint!
  14. After re-reading some of my reference material, I realized that the ‘mottle’ on the spinner was most likely “Italian sand”, not RLM 70/71. So, I’m in the process of stripping and refinishing the spinner. … Oh well …
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