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Tail-Dragon

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Tail-Dragon last won the day on April 9 2014

Tail-Dragon had the most liked content!

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About Tail-Dragon

  • Rank
    Established Member
  • Birthday 10/23/1954

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
  • Interests
    W.W.2 Aviation, Armour, Naval and Helo's

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  1. There seems to be a recurring myth that the JU-87 was covered in domed rivets and was as 'warty' as a DC-3. When I looked at the Stuka at the RAF museum (admittedly a JU-87G) was that it wasn't that crude. It stretches credulity to think they changed from dome rivets to flush with the development of the 'D ' or 'G' variants.
  2. The ICM Dornier DO-17 has a couple of issues to be addressed if accuracy is your thing - they got the engine/cowl braces wrong (not even close), and the horizontal tail is inaccurate - the 'beaver tail is way to wide, and they completely missed the variable incidence tail plane. I built the Classic Airframes kit a few years back and found it to be a challenging but rewarding experience. I had an ICM kit, but dealt it away, as there seemed to be almost as much work require on it as the Classics kit, but at 3 time the price. (IMHO) I can give the mods required, if your interested. I've also built (back dated to an H-2 BofB) the Monogram kit and quite enjoyed it - as an aside, it can be had for 1/3 the price of the ICM kit here. The Monogram has a couple of quirks, but builds up nicely - it doesn't have all the interior that the ICM does, but most can't be seen anyhow. I have never built the ICM for comparison, but never felt the need. I'm not trying to be contrary, just saying don't completely discount the older kits.
  3. Ultracast does one that is excellent, and will happily airmail to the U.K. at a reasonable price. https://www.ultracast.ca/product-p/ult48074.htm
  4. Sorry if I intruded, but I was just trying to show my agreement that Tamiya's 'Dark earth' does seem too red, in my humble opinion. The main purpose was to show the Tamiya color against the RAF Museum's paint chip.
  5. I was experimenting with various Tamiya acrylic mixes to get an acceptable 'flat earth' - this is the mix I most favor - Tamiya 2:XF-49 Khaki and 1:XF-52 Flat Earth Tamiya Acrylics - RAF Dark Earth paint mix - comparison For comparison, I'm using the paint chips in the RAF museum's book "British Aviation Colors of World War Two". Photos were taken under natural cloudy sunlight and incandescent light. (The tops and bottom of the test card are brush painted, the center darker portion is after a coat of Future.) A is Tamiya XF-52 Flat Earth B is Gunzie H72 Dark Earth C is Tamiya custom mix that appeared in Hyperscale, of 1:XF-72, 1:XF-49, 1:XF-55 D is my mix of Tamiya 2:XF-49 Khaki and 1:XF-52 Flat Earth E is Tamiya XF-81 RAF Dark Green Natural cloudy sunlight Incandescent light I think the Dark Earth (D) is close enough for a simple mix (there is a lot of variation in the original batches of WW2 paint), the Tamiya green seems just a touch to dark under future. More importantly, the colors "look" right to the eye, without the jarring red/green contrast of Tamiya's XF-52 alone.
  6. Thanks SimonT, upon further research, I'm thinking I'll go with the Vector resin set. While it doesn't address the cockpit floor, it does include better spinners and correct exhaust https://www.neomega-resin.com/junkers-ju-88a-5-radiatorspinner-set-icm-932-p.asp#
  7. Has anyone used Aims AIMSP48001 - Junkers Ju-88A-5 update set for the ICM JU-88 A-5 yet? It looks good but the photo's are so poor I can't see any of the detail. I'm specifically interested if the eng. radiator faces have enough detail (i.e. the concentric rings of the radiator itself) http://www.aimsmodels.co.uk/Resin/1-48-Resin/1-48-resin/1-48-resin_3.html Thanks in advance, tail-dragon
  8. Canopy masking What I did that made it easy is I cut thin strips of tape with a sharp #11 blade and a steel ruler, masked and painted one diagonal of the brace, then masked and painted the other. Now you have a perfect, symmetrical 'X'. It's then a simple matter to mask the square window - out line with thin strips, then fill in with chunks of masking tape. The biggest mistake (IMHO) is trying to mask with a single piece of tape. It's much better to outline with thin strips, and then piece in the rest. The other advantage is with thin strips of tape, you can follow curves easily and accurately.
  9. Far easier and quicker than trying to get decals to fit, just mask the area, give one coat of a tan or light yellowish brown ( I use panzer yellow) and, when dry, one coat of the yellow of your choice - done! Yellow is fairly translucent and need an opaque base, but the tan or panzer yellow gives a perfect base without making the final yellow to bright.
  10. Very nicely built and finished (and the camo colours look bang on!) - you've made me want to add a /U12 to my collection.
  11. Very interesting - I had not known that the Mk XIV wing was based on a Mk VIII wing. I now wonder if the Otaki upper wing and canopy can be used on a Mk XIX. ( I know I keep harping on the Otaki kit, but I have one in my 'don't bother to build' pile, and I'm reluctant to cut up a buildable kit for parts - I'm cheap)
  12. I had been planning on using an old Otaki Mk IX upper spine for this, now I'll wait until I see what Paul Budzik has come up with. He is the King of scratch building and modifying! (as an afterthought, the Eduard Mk IXc early comes with a spare set of IXc late - narrow blister wings. I wonder if they could be used for an initial Mk XIVc ?)
  13. I meant to add this, a ref drawing of the lower surface
  14. I built one recently from the 1/48 Airfix kit, and listed some of the mods required (if your interested) Note the shell ejection chute, and the reinforced flaps Note the armor plate band around the nose Note the bulged, late style canopy - some had the bulge on only the right hand side for some reason
  15. This is Otaki's 1/48 FW-190A-8 that I originally started as just a 'paint mule' to try out a paint mix. One thing lead to another and, well, here you are. I added details to the cockpit, belts from aluminum tape and solder, and a scratch built gunsight. Bulged canopy is a spare from Hobbyboss, with scratchbuilt headrest and bulkheads. For the gear, I added a strip to the landing gear doors to widen them, shortened the legs and added brakelines, spare wheels from and Eduard kit, cut out the make believe gear well and added a spare 'dimpled' panel from Eduard's, and scratch built the rest of the well. Tailwheel is an Eduard's spare. Outboard lower canon breaches are spare bombs with plasticard shell chutes, and canon's are brass tube. Drop tank and mount are also Eduard's spares. Decals are spare Hobbyboss, old letraset applied to clear decal paper (to get close to the proper style, I had to use the top half of a '2' and the bottom half of a capitol 'L'), and the werke numbers are actually decal sheet item numbers made into decals by painting them with Microscale liquid decal film. Paints are Tamiya acrylics RLM 74 is XF 24:3, XF 27:1, and the RLM 75 is XF 75:8, XF 07:1 - the whole reason for the build! Applied over Tamiya Titanium silver and haispray, and then chipped with water and a toothpick. Hope you like. Just for comparison, here's Eduard's FW-190A-5, and the Otaki kit from the 1970's ... … and the 'Wulf' pack!
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