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Calum

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About Calum

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  • Birthday September 19

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  1. Looking good Dave. I agree the F-16 looks good in that camo
  2. Nice start there and a challenging scheme you've chosen. I've built this kit and I can echo the others who say you need to dry fit every piece - twice. But it can be built into a good model
  3. Looks great Mick. Good to see it completed
  4. Unlikely.. it's a bit beyond him Mick... He's struggling with a 1/72 glider !!!!!!
  5. Decals are on First was gloss coated with 2 light coats of Gaianotes clear lacquer. Main markings are from Cartograph and went down without any issues although I did use Mircosol and set. The stencils are Eduard and I'm a bit vary of these so I applied then directly into a pool of future. After the decals had set I sealed them with another coat of Gaianotes. The next day I gave the model 2 coats of Tamyia flat. Flat coats are my nemesis , I still haven't found one I really like. Everyone I've used I still,from time to time get the old little white spec. I also like to weather with oils so I need one that'll be imperious to mineral spirits etc. .... I haven't found one that truly meets my requirements as yet. I've got Gaianotes flat coming so I'll try that once it arrives. Anyway , the images
  6. These are the ultracast bits I used http://www.ultracast.ca/products/48/264/default.htm http://www.ultracast.ca/products/48/260/default.htm Thanks they look useful.
  7. Go to see it back on the bench
  8. This is my third Eduard Spitfire and as usual there was no real problems putting things together, as long as you follow instructions. Even with the resin cockpit the wing assembly was a click fit to the cockpit assembly. I find you do have to bend the wing assembly down a little to get the fuselage to click into it's spot. I always end up with a little gap in the leading edge of the left wing root but this is easily solved with a bit of filler. The only flaw in this kit is the two piece upper cowl. Cleaning up this seam means you lose a fair bit of he nice detail. A resin cowl form either Ultracast or Barracuda is well worth the $8 to save this pain. First colour was Dark earth. This is decanted from the Tamiya Spray Can . It's a bit chocolatey in colour at the moment (sometimes I like it, sometimes I don't, this time not so much). Hopefully some weathering later will tone that down. I painted the black in step lines on now as Peter's Malones book says when the foliage green was applied it was painted over the middle stone and stencils (makes sense to me). I then made a couple of masks for the roundels and painted a slightly darker shade of brown where the RAF roundels were over painted. Wish I'd have done this a bit darker but it's to late now.. Making masks. I simply downloaded the PDF from the Eduard site, snipped out the 3 views of the aircraft and using Paintshop pro cropped an resized them to the correct size. Then I print them out on A4 self adhesive label paper. Cut out and stick on the model. I like to de-tack the label paper first as it is quite sticky . This works well for flat surfaces but a little adjustment is needed for sharp curves like the top of fuselage. After removing the masks and carrying out a few touch ups I masked out the lower colour. Then after using a ton of masking tape I sprayed the white leading edges and fuselage band. Eduard give you a decal for the fuselage band but I figured I'd paint it. Now to let all that go off for a day or so and put a wash over it.
  9. Fair point but I've found that even if the real aircraft is glossy, a glossy or even semi gloss coat doesn't work on a small model. You don't know what that means coming from you Bruce (actually you probably do )
  10. Yeah I enjoy. I especially love stencils as they really bring the subject to life IMHO. Having good decals certainly helps though. I'm always happy when I see decals printed by Cartograph
  11. Another one for my cold war RAF/RN Collection. I remember the Falklands war as a kid in school, and was always fascinated by the "Jump Jets" on the TV. So I was pretty happy when Kinetic released a Sea Harrier, noting that the only other options in 48 were the horrible Airfix and Tamiya kits. I'm also looking forward to Kinetics Harrier Gr.3. I've chosen to do XZ457 - "14" of No 800 Naval Air Squadron onboard HMS Hermes in the South Atlantic in 1982. XZ457 was the highest scoring Sea Harrier with 2 IAI Daggers and 1 A-4Q Skyhawk. accredited to her. As I've chosen to depict her on in the Hermes during the conflict the kill markings have been left off. The Kit 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS.1 You do need to take a bit of time with this kit as many of the pieces needed a little clean up / dry fitting etc. But if you do that it will build up into a nice model. I've gone for a lighter shade Extra Dark Sea Grey to try and get a more scale looking colour, this meant I ended up with a bit to much paint on the model, which filled some of the nice recessed detail. The kit has some nice weapons, so much so I didn't bother with arfermarket weapons. Aftermarket Used Eduard Big Ed Set which has an interior PE set, exterior PE set and a Mask set. Dr Pepper AIM-9 Seaker head covers. Eduard PE RBF tags Fantasy Printshop Paper RBF tags Aerobouns Sea Harrier pilot J's Modelworks Carrier base (I know it's not accurate for a RN carrier but it'll do) I didn't use the Pavla seat as it didn't fit the kit being to large. Decals Kit decals. Probably the best kit decals I've used. Printed by carotgragh and it seams you can do pretty much every Falklands Sea Harrier. These are better than any aftermarket options I've seen. Paints Mr Color Lacquers - adjusted to TLAR for the Extra Dark Sea Grey. I tried to lighten the lower fuselage as this was over-painted white by brush on the way down to the Falklands and darken the areas on the tail where the squadron markings and "Royal Navy" were over painted. I didn't totally pull this off. Various Tamiya Colours Vallejo Acrylics for details . Clear Coats Testors Glosscoate, which was over coated with Gaianotes gloss lacquer as the testors stayed tacky, Testors Dullcoate and Tamiya Flat. Weathered with Oil paints for a wash an filters Pastels, pigments and coloured pencils More photos at my blog
  12. very nice work. great photos as usual.
  13. Yeah I should have said all the Draken Single seaters were originally RAN A-4G's . They now only have 1 ex RNZAF T bird (ex NZ6252) with ex NZ6251 crashing earlier this year/late last year. I wonder if they'll want to purchase some more T birds for conversion training.
  14. Here's the fuselage halves already to go. Painted with Mr Color Lacquers and Vallejo acrylics for the details. Gloss coat was Tamiya and I even bothered to apply the tiny decals for the various stencils - not sure I'll bother doing that again as, most won't be seen. Wash was oil paints and flat coat is dullcoate. The Seat is painted with Vallejo model air rust and other Vallejo paints. I used Tamiya tape for the foot straps (again another waste of time ). As I'm using the weekend edition parts, (no PE) I used the decal for the panel. IMHO this looks as good as the PE especially as it's in a dark spot so the light grey edges will make the instruments pop a little. I flat coated it and used a drop of the UV activated glue for the instrument glasses. As long as they fit I'm a big fan of decals for instrument panels, and this one fits well. Now to see how it's going to fit with the resin seat....