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Kitchen Modeller

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Kitchen Modeller last won the day on October 11 2021

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  1. No worries If you're going to give this technique a try, I'd say to try it out on a paint mule first - this will give you a feel for it and practice what you're going to do on the model itself
  2. Thanks Sam I’ve been trying different techniques with the Alclad to see if I could achieve a more weathered varied look. I guess the main difference here was using a version of the black basing technique where you marble on the Alclad instead of spraying it evenly onto the black gloss base. In stages: once the model is ready for paint, I polished the plastic with Tamiya polishing compounds- trying to get the surface as smooth as possible. Then the black gloss goes on. I used mr color gx2 which I think is the best option out there in terms of ease of use. Thinned 50:50 with mr leveling thinner. Once this was dry I did some more polishing on any spots that needed it. Then the Alclad goes on - marbled on at first followed by more even coats - this creates the variation in the paint. Airframe aluminum was the base colour. Certain panels were masked off and painted with different shades - polished aluminum and duralumin mixed with airframe aluminum to lessen the contrast. The model then got a coat of Aquagloss to seal in the paint and protect it from the many weathering layers to come. Hope this helps
  3. Thanks guys Thanks Jackson - I applied the rivets after the paint on a coat of Aquagloss - think the instructions say to put them on to the primer before paint but I was afraid they would get eaten by my paint and clear coats. I think this was the right call as they came out nicely. Thanks Andres I’d recommend them - I used mr mark settler (nothing else) and they worked a treat Thanks mate
  4. Hi ho - here’s most likely my last completion for 2021 - the venerable Tamiya P-47. Had this in the stash for quite some time so great to finally knock it out. It’s an old enough kit but still top notch. Added HGW seat belts and raised rivets - both of which worked out quite well. I used Eduard’s “look” instrument panel drop in which didn’t impress tbh. Very plastic looking in spite of my attempts to flatten it with clear coats. Used resin wheels from eduard also which were very nice. Painted with Alclad and mr color paints. Weathering done mostly with oils - some enamel washes used.
  5. Lovely stuff - very nicely done. It’s a beautiful scheme and you nailed it. Great work
  6. Sorry for the late reply - I drew up the plate in photoshop, printed it off on my cheapie inkjet and pasted it on to the styrene sheet. You could use Microsoft word or something similar to do this. Easy as.
  7. Nice work Mike - really like that you went with the light grey panel line wash - really makes that detail pop.
  8. Thanks Fuad for your kind words. Regarding your comments on the technical condition of my model - I agree but also disagree. You didn't mention anything specific on my model that you particularly disagree with so I'll have to make some assumptions. I'm guessing that the wing root chipping is a little egregious to you - this I agree with and as stated in my original post, I wasn't happy with how this turned out. I have a few reference photos of chipping that occurred in this area (see below) but the effect on my model isn't very convincing to my own eye - however this is the danger of hairspray chipping - it's very easy to over do. I probably should have stripped the paint and started again. I stand by the rest of the weathering however - I wanted to depict a front line machine on a mucky field. Even after one day of multiple sorties over an active war zone, it's absolutely conceivable that the aircraft would have been covered with dust, stains and dirt. The engines as you say were only rated for 50 hours - and were also extremely inefficient - so oil leaks, fuel leaks and exhaust stains were very common - which is typical of all aircraft from the period. There were periods when up to 10 sorties a day were completed. It makes no sense that a crew would spend time cleaning the aircraft after every mission. Even for the squadron commander. They would have been far more concerned with engine checks, refueling and re-arming. Hypothetically they could have cleaned the aircraft at the end of the day but I didn't want to portray this version of the airplane. The images you provided were used as references in this build - but to me these are obviously propaganda photos. So it makes sense that they would have made the special effort to clean the aircraft for the occasion. These might have have been taken on the day he was presented with the re-painted version of the aircraft. There is no way to tell. Here are some of the other references that I used - you can see plenty of examples of very dirty and chipped Yak's; A note about how I weather aircraft models - I love making and painting plastic model airplanes - and my favorite part of it is the weathering - I just get the most enjoyment from this part of the process. So invariably, I'll probably "over weather" most of my models. It's my artistic choice to do this along with colour choices and what kit I choose to build. Building a model airplane and not covering it with dirt and stains is not very appealing to me. This is my own taste - everyone is free to build, paint and weather their models as they see fit. I am not trying to recreate a 100% historical accurate model. For one thing, this is near impossible - you can get close to it but it will never be 100%. I'm in it to have fun - I only have to please myself. Making a historical accuracy argument about someones model can be tenuous. There are always exceptions to the rule and unless you have indisputable evidence to the contrary, there is always an argument to be made. You are however allowed to criticize the model itself - the paintwork and even the weathering if you feel it could be better or improved. I feel like alot of models cop criticism for being 'over weathered' when really the opinion is 'I don't think your weathering is convincing'. This is a valid argument but can be hard to express without seeming over critical. I hope you will accept this explanation as to why I made the choices I did on this model - it's not my intention to prove you wrong in any way but rather explain why I did what I did. I'm happy to have a discussion on this as I know alot of folks have strong opinions on this topic - ie weathering on models but I think there is room in the hobby for both camps. Regards John
  9. Thanks That green is Mr Color 122 RLM 82 - which was a call out on the instructions but a good match I think. Thanks Gary - the plumbing is just some copper wires that were added after painting the wheel bay - then painted silver - the "tape labels" were just painted on with a detail brush. Not a huge amount of work and not very accurate - the real thing had a ton of pipes down there so really it's just a nod as opposed to a recreation. It's amazing how adding a few little details like this can lift it up
  10. Thanks Andrés I used scratch effects from Mig - so the hairspray technique - so masked off the stripes, sprayed the scratch effects - let that dry, then the black - then wet the area and the paint flakes off with a brush. I used tooth picks to chip certain areas. I sure did it's a very nice kit - so nice I bought another
  11. Thanks Pete - working with oils is a huge topic but I'd readily recommend giving them a go - there are truly limitless applications with them. In terms of how you use them, you can thin them with odorless thinner which is a type of turpentine that is much more gentle. I use odorless enamel thinner from Ammo for mig but there's lots out there - and you can buy it in art supply shops. But there are lots of ways to use them without thinners - straight from the tube. I also use them to make washes. I learned most of the techniques from watching youtube videos - if you type "oil paint rendering" into youtube, you'll get heaps of very good tutorial videos which should help you on your way. Things to watch out for are the surface you're putting the paint on - makes a huge difference to the effect you get. I put washes onto gloss clear coats, and do modulation and effects on semi gloss and matt coats. The brushes you use are very important too - you'll need a good blending brush. The main thing is practice - I was using oils for about 2 years before I starting getting good with them (though washes are pretty fool proof) As long as your work is protected with clear coats, you shouldn't get any adverse effects and the best thing is, if you're not happy with what you've done, you can easily wipe it all off and start again. Thanks Andre - huge fan of your work too Thanks for all the kind comments guys
  12. Thanks Jeff - if you're keen to do a Yak1 in 1/48 it's probably your best bet - it's not terrible but I'd look at getting some aftermarket decals and some resin wheels if you can find them - otherwise go for it Thanks Opus
  13. Just completed this one at the weekend - Eduard's p-51 Mustang. I built the old tamiya kit a couple of years ago and although that is still a great kit, the new Eduard does bring a new level of awesomeness to the table. I really enjoyed this build - it does have plenty of flaws but makes it up for it in terms of detail. Most of the issues can be dealt with easily enough - however the Tamiya kit had a much better approuch to the upper nose section - supplying a one piece component which give you a perfect result - the eduard version has the traditional split fuselage approach which means you need to sand off alot of detail in this area - and it's quite challenging to put the detail back, Other than that, I'd have little to complain about. The cockpit is fantastic oob - surface details are lovely. Another great kit from Eduard. Painted with Alclad and Mr Color paints - Oils for the weathering. Thanks for looking Cheers John
  14. Hi all - been a while since I posted here so I've got a couple of new builds - First is the Zvezda rebox of the Accurate miniatures tooled Yak-1b. The kit isn't too bad considering the cost - and has some nicely engineered components - especially like the one piece upper fuselage which negates the need to deal with the top fuselage seam. It does have fit issues however - on the wing roots and the landing gear assembly was a nightmare. Or at least I found it to be a nightmare - I'd probably do a better job next time but I found it impossible to align the structs correctly this time round. The Zvezda decal set wasn't great - the print was out of register and the colours seemed to be quite off. I'd recommend getting after market decals if you do this kit or check the decal sheet before you buy. I added some Eduard photo etch landing flaps and cockpit detail - both of which were quite good. It was painted with Mr Color lacquers with oils for the weathering effects. Overall, I'm happy enough with the result - I'm not too happy about the wing root chipping which didn't really 'come off' in my opinion. I probably would have gone with a different scheme given the choice now - I found the red nose difficult to do. I really like the Yak and there are plenty of great schemes available for it. Thanks for looking John
  15. Easily one of the best Viggens I've seen - it's a beautiful aircraft and you've really done it justice here - beautiful paint and weathering - did you have many issues with the kit? I've heard mixed reports.
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