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Kitchen Modeller

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Kitchen Modeller last won the day on June 16

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  1. Very nicely done - a very realistic finish from top to bottom. Can I ask how to achieved the chipping effects? Hair spray or sponge or brush.? Or all of these? They look great
  2. Thanks - the colour is mr color interior green C27 with a little zinc chromite mixed in. Thanks Tony. I did dig into this some what - An American friend who’s Dad flew Sabres in Korea said that 3 colours were used during the war - black, green and grey - so I went with grey as it was apparently more common mid war. But I wouldn’t bet my life on it or anything. It seems to be a ‘what color were spitfire wheel wells’ kind of situation- everyone has their own opinion
  3. Thanks zigomar - My mistake - thought they were used for fuel thanks Bruce - probably- the plastic there is not thin but I think it just doesn’t mate v well - if I was doing it again I’d use CA glue and fill it with CA too Thanks sir - corrected Thanks for the kind comments all
  4. Hey all - here’s my completed Zero from the recent new tool from Eduard. I’ve wanted to do a zero for ages so jumped into this as soon as the kit arrived. It’s a very nice kit, typical from Eduard. The fit is excellent in most places though there are some minor issues. Nothing that can’t be easily dealt with. I had ghost seams constantly reappearing on the alt section of the fuselage so I had to do spot repair them a number of times. I know others have had the same problem so I think this is an issue with the kit. The landing gear was also tricky with no way to get a positive fit so a bit of manual alignment is required. Other than that, it’s pretty solid. The details are great especially with the rivets and cockpit. I added eduard resin wheels and fabric seatbelts from hgw. This aircraft flew from dirt airfields in New Britain near the Solomons so I wanted to portray a dirty worn airframe. The dirt is quite empathized in the photos as I tend to over expose my pictures- it’s not as pronounced in reality. But it’s not a Pearl Harbor airplane which were very clean. Painted with mr color paints with oils and enamels for the weathering - main markings were masked and used hgw wet transfers for the stencils.
  5. Here’s my completed F-86 from the Hasegawa kit. The paint scheme on this turned into a bit of a mission - turns out Alclad chrome is v delicate and would chip easily so I spent a huge amount of time doing spot repairs and touch ups throughout the build. Masking and painting yellow on top of that made things even more difficult- I got there in the end but wouldn’t consider it one of my best builds. There are a few issues with the model including decal film showing and minor seams. That said it’s still nice to have a shiny Sabre in the collection. The kit is okay for its age and probably the best option for a Sabre in this scale. I used aftermarket decals some eduard photoetch in the cockpit and a resin seat replacement.
  6. Recently finished up what is my 2nd armour build. I’ve been modeling aircraft for a while now but recently got into armor and I’m having a blast. I’m still trying to get the hang of the various weathering techniques, especially dust and mud but I made an improvement on my last attempt. The kit is pretty good especially for the cost. I added metal tracks and some stowage. I also added the 2 resin figures.
  7. No worries If you're going to give this technique a try, I'd say to try it out on a paint mule first - this will give you a feel for it and practice what you're going to do on the model itself
  8. Thanks Sam I’ve been trying different techniques with the Alclad to see if I could achieve a more weathered varied look. I guess the main difference here was using a version of the black basing technique where you marble on the Alclad instead of spraying it evenly onto the black gloss base. In stages: once the model is ready for paint, I polished the plastic with Tamiya polishing compounds- trying to get the surface as smooth as possible. Then the black gloss goes on. I used mr color gx2 which I think is the best option out there in terms of ease of use. Thinned 50:50 with mr leveling thinner. Once this was dry I did some more polishing on any spots that needed it. Then the Alclad goes on - marbled on at first followed by more even coats - this creates the variation in the paint. Airframe aluminum was the base colour. Certain panels were masked off and painted with different shades - polished aluminum and duralumin mixed with airframe aluminum to lessen the contrast. The model then got a coat of Aquagloss to seal in the paint and protect it from the many weathering layers to come. Hope this helps
  9. Thanks guys Thanks Jackson - I applied the rivets after the paint on a coat of Aquagloss - think the instructions say to put them on to the primer before paint but I was afraid they would get eaten by my paint and clear coats. I think this was the right call as they came out nicely. Thanks Andres I’d recommend them - I used mr mark settler (nothing else) and they worked a treat Thanks mate
  10. Hi ho - here’s most likely my last completion for 2021 - the venerable Tamiya P-47. Had this in the stash for quite some time so great to finally knock it out. It’s an old enough kit but still top notch. Added HGW seat belts and raised rivets - both of which worked out quite well. I used Eduard’s “look” instrument panel drop in which didn’t impress tbh. Very plastic looking in spite of my attempts to flatten it with clear coats. Used resin wheels from eduard also which were very nice. Painted with Alclad and mr color paints. Weathering done mostly with oils - some enamel washes used.
  11. Lovely stuff - very nicely done. It’s a beautiful scheme and you nailed it. Great work
  12. Sorry for the late reply - I drew up the plate in photoshop, printed it off on my cheapie inkjet and pasted it on to the styrene sheet. You could use Microsoft word or something similar to do this. Easy as.
  13. Nice work Mike - really like that you went with the light grey panel line wash - really makes that detail pop.
  14. Thanks Fuad for your kind words. Regarding your comments on the technical condition of my model - I agree but also disagree. You didn't mention anything specific on my model that you particularly disagree with so I'll have to make some assumptions. I'm guessing that the wing root chipping is a little egregious to you - this I agree with and as stated in my original post, I wasn't happy with how this turned out. I have a few reference photos of chipping that occurred in this area (see below) but the effect on my model isn't very convincing to my own eye - however this is the danger of hairspray chipping - it's very easy to over do. I probably should have stripped the paint and started again. I stand by the rest of the weathering however - I wanted to depict a front line machine on a mucky field. Even after one day of multiple sorties over an active war zone, it's absolutely conceivable that the aircraft would have been covered with dust, stains and dirt. The engines as you say were only rated for 50 hours - and were also extremely inefficient - so oil leaks, fuel leaks and exhaust stains were very common - which is typical of all aircraft from the period. There were periods when up to 10 sorties a day were completed. It makes no sense that a crew would spend time cleaning the aircraft after every mission. Even for the squadron commander. They would have been far more concerned with engine checks, refueling and re-arming. Hypothetically they could have cleaned the aircraft at the end of the day but I didn't want to portray this version of the airplane. The images you provided were used as references in this build - but to me these are obviously propaganda photos. So it makes sense that they would have made the special effort to clean the aircraft for the occasion. These might have have been taken on the day he was presented with the re-painted version of the aircraft. There is no way to tell. Here are some of the other references that I used - you can see plenty of examples of very dirty and chipped Yak's; A note about how I weather aircraft models - I love making and painting plastic model airplanes - and my favorite part of it is the weathering - I just get the most enjoyment from this part of the process. So invariably, I'll probably "over weather" most of my models. It's my artistic choice to do this along with colour choices and what kit I choose to build. Building a model airplane and not covering it with dirt and stains is not very appealing to me. This is my own taste - everyone is free to build, paint and weather their models as they see fit. I am not trying to recreate a 100% historical accurate model. For one thing, this is near impossible - you can get close to it but it will never be 100%. I'm in it to have fun - I only have to please myself. Making a historical accuracy argument about someones model can be tenuous. There are always exceptions to the rule and unless you have indisputable evidence to the contrary, there is always an argument to be made. You are however allowed to criticize the model itself - the paintwork and even the weathering if you feel it could be better or improved. I feel like alot of models cop criticism for being 'over weathered' when really the opinion is 'I don't think your weathering is convincing'. This is a valid argument but can be hard to express without seeming over critical. I hope you will accept this explanation as to why I made the choices I did on this model - it's not my intention to prove you wrong in any way but rather explain why I did what I did. I'm happy to have a discussion on this as I know alot of folks have strong opinions on this topic - ie weathering on models but I think there is room in the hobby for both camps. Regards John
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