Jump to content

If you're one of the gradually reducing number of folks that aren't currently receiving notifications to topics you've subscribed to, or PMs you're receiving, first check you've got the correct address in your profile, then drop in and post your experience in this thread, remembering to tell us your email provider's details, which is the part after the @ in your email address.

This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)


Gold Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

188 Excellent

About CarLos

Profile Information

  • Gender

Recent Profile Visitors

3,135 profile views
  1. Selling only engine kits would be a good idea! There is a great gap to cover since Aeroclub closed.
  2. Letov S-16.1 colours

    Thank you very much, Panoz! I already spent some time in the Czech forum, with the help of Google translator. Meanwhile I found an extensive article on the S.16 in my library, in numbers 47 to 49 of Avions. Carlos
  3. Letov S-16.1 colours

    I received today the Brengun kit of the S-16 and I think it is a good candidate for a quick, OOB build. I want to make the aircraft of the (intended) Prague-Tokyo-Prague raid but I'm puzzled with the colours indicated in the box: khaki for the upper surfaces and silver for the undersurfaces - and this is the same for an operational aircraft. Also the interior is indicated as silver. I don't think this can be correct. Why would someone paint the undersides silver? Not for camouflage purposes, and certainly not for UV protection. And why use a paint that weights more than any other because of the mixed aluminium powder? A Google search by "Letov S-16 kit review" makes me think that these are the colours indicated also in the old KP kit (please someone confirm). But I also saw a Tuskish decal (Blackbird Models) that suggests the same Czech colours of Dark Green upper surfaces and Light Blue under surfaces - and that seams more reasonable. Comments, please? TIA Carlos
  4. He70/He170 camera location?

    Hi Larry, This may help: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1bhCJSwr5cEBGcKXEjUQWeBZEO8K60cwB There's a ventral hatch just behind thr wing's trailing edge. Carlos
  5. Hudson to Lodestar conversion?

    PM sent on the subject... Carlos
  6. 1/36th scale prize winning models, but who was he?

    The name you are looking for is Tony Woollett. I still have buried in one of my backups photos of most of his models. I wish I could find them. One of the Greats, sadly not with us any more.
  7. My plan was to enter this GB with the Humming Bird and enter another model only after the first almost finished. But I doubt the I ever started this one without the extra stimulus of this Group Build, so here we go... Aircraft in Miniature offers a lot of very interesting kits of the Golden Age, but we were almost always mismatched; Or the kits were available and I had no money or I had some to spend and they were out of production. So I felt very lucky to acquire this one second hand (from here in Britmodeller if I remember well) but the anticipation of the work needed always made me return it to the stash every time I opened the box. Until some days ago. I forget to take a picture of the contents before starting it, but you may have a look at it with only a few work done: The kit is composed of vacuformed fuselage halves and cabin transparent parts (in double), resin flying surfaces and metal detail parts. A bit of 2mm thick plastic card is included as well. Decals are included for three aircraft - you may see profiles at AiM's page: http://www.aim72.co.uk/page174.html The fuselage parts were pre-cut and pre-sanded, although I had to finish the task. (I think that this was done by AiM, but I don't exclude the previous owner). I would have preferred the more common white plastic and parts not cut, so I could control better the sanding process. The black plastic doesn't help either. The canopy plastic yellowed a lot and will not be used. As you may see, the engine nacelles, wheel pants and wheels are all in one piece. I don't like that, as it makes detailing and painting more difficult, so I will take the wheels off and will open the wells. (The nacelle fronts were included but I already took them apart - they are probably hidden bellow the instructions in the photo above). All the outer panels were warped. The white metal parts are still in their bags and will need a lot of cleaning. As for accuracy, the kit is good enough. Scale drawings are included both in an article by Graham Simons in Wingspan #63 (April 1990) - drawings by Alf Granger - and in a booklet published by GMS Enterprises (the publisher of older books of Arthur Ord-Hume). The quality of the photos printed in this one is truly awful but the plans are very similar to Granger's with a few differences. I scanned, printed and measured granger drawings and they are on the spot on span dimension but 2 to 3 mm larger in length. As you may see bellow, the wings have a good dimension (with some difference at the tips) but the fuselage is way to small, about 6 mm less than the drawings, or 3 mm less than the true dimension. The fuselage is a little short comparing with the drawings in the booklet, that are themselves more than 1mm short. The kit was probably produced having these drawings as a basis. I will not worry myself with the small difference in length and I still must decide if I will correct the wing tips. * * * I began cutting the engine nacelle fronts to open the intakes and place inside the first cylinder but I think I will cast copies of the Airfix Tiger Moth part instead. This is work for later. Then I straightened the warped wings. I confess I was a little worried about that, but it was fast and simple. I just put some boiling water in a mug and put inside the warped portion for a few seconds. When the resin was soft enough I placed the part in a plan surface (my faithful mitter box) and let it cold under cold water. In one case I had to repeat, but it worked well and fast. Sorry, no photos of the warped parts. Probably because there was not a clear definition between the inner end of the outer wing panels and their casting blocks, both inner and outer wing panels had a very noticeable misalignment taking the leading edge as a reference. It was tricky, but I managed to solve the problem this way: * first, I measured and drilled holes for two spars made of steel rod. I used started with a thinner drill and enlarged the hole until the rod diameter, 1.2 mm, taking care to alight the drill with the leading edge in plan view; * Then I glued the pins in the inner panels, using super glue; * When I offered the outer panels to the inner ones there was some misalignment, but then I could enlarge the outer holes with the drill until both panels were aligned against the edge of the mitter box. This time 5 min. epoxy was used to join the wings, which game me time for adjustment and filled partially the gaps. This was much easier to do with the upper wings, as I could place both panels against the edge. With the lower ones I had to trust in my eyeball... I managed to swap upper and lower panels! I knew that the aileron actuators were in the upper surface on the upper wing and the contrary on the lower... but I only noticed after gluing! No big deal, as they were a little rude and the only other difference were the flaps in the upper wing that were in the wrong position anyway. Next I opened the windows. This is problematic to me, as I previously almost ruined a few vacs because of careless cutting, so I decided to be *very* careful this time. I scanned and printed the frames from the decals, cut them carefully by the upper and lower line of the windows. The windows must be correctly aligned between two stringers, and have as reference the port door. I put a spot or two of tube glue to fix the paper to the plastic and then put scotch tape over. Then I cut the paper by the inside of the frames, drilled some holes conveniently away from the frame and took a looong time to cut, replace dull blades, and finish with files. I must confess that aligning the wings and cutting the windows were the main tasks that put this kit far from my workbench for so long. Now that this is solved, the rest should be a walk in the park! Carlos
  8. Thank you very much for watching, guys! Some little progress... I made a mold out of balsa for the upper part of the fuselage. I planned to crash mold, but instead I decided to give another try to my Mattel vacuformer. After several trials the output was not good, as both the valve and the piston gasket needs replacement. It is usable anyway, but it still needs some work. As you may see I almost managed to ruin the molding and I must be very careful when opening the cockpit. I promised to progress on the wings but I am making some experiences about the better option to represent the ribs. Strips of decal, bare metal foil or simply stretched sprue are the candidates. What do you think? Also I became distracted by another De Havilland project...
  9. Amodel 1/72 Li-2p

    I have the Japanese version (Tabby) and I think it's the same plastic. It's a good kit, that compares well with plans, but (from memory) has no locating pins and is less easy to assemple than, for example, the Airfix DC-3. Nothing wrong about it. Carlos
  10. Veeday 1/72 Flycatcher

    May be the Boeing P-12? I didn't refer it because this one is American (and the Seafox is not a fighter...).
  11. Opinions on Amodel kits

    In my opinion Amodel is one of the most interesting manufacturers out there, offering subjects that nobody else does. The earlier kits surely needs good modeller skils and a tube or two of putty. But at the end a very satisfying result can be achieved. Take a look at Matt Bittner's one: http://www.internetmodeler.com/2004/january/aviation/meb_spad.php (The same issue of Internet Modeler offers three build articles of the pulpit SPAD! http://www.internetmodeler.com/2004/january/contents.php )
  12. Opinions on Amodel kits

    In my opinion Amodel is one of the most interesting manufacturers out there, offering subjects that nobody else does. The earlier kits surely needs good modeller skils and a tube or two of putty. But at the end a very satisfying result can be achieved. Take a look at Matt Bittner's one: http://www.internetmodeler.com/2004/january/aviation/meb_spad.php (The same issue of Internet Modeler offers three build articles of the pulpit SPAD!)
  13. De Havilland MEGA Group Build Chat

    I can't believe no one is entering a Chipmunk!
  14. Veeday 1/72 Flycatcher

    J-W, the Broplan Gamecock II is not a vac but a short run injected kit. The only British biplane fighters made by Matchbox were the Fury, the Siskin and the Gladiator. Other than Veeday, Flycatcher kits were made by Aeroclub (injected), Esoteric (vac) and Karaya (resin) and the Gamecock was produced by Aeroclub and Pegasus (inj.) and CMR (resin).
  15. De Havilland MEGA Group Build Chat

    I may consider to enter my Swallow, but only after the Humming Bird! Here are a few other interesting kits I could enter in a GB extending for one year: Both the Vami Leopard Moth and the Kiwi Resin Fox Moth are chalenging kits. The Albatross is a beauty, but it's not something to make in a hurry. Carlos