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Robert Stuart

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About Robert Stuart

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    South Bucks
  • Interests
    Sticking stuff together.

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  1. Pz IV STGB

  2. Pz IV STGB

    Hmm, I could be tempted to build a Hummel. But, that's a PzIII/IV chassis, like a Nashorn with a 150mm artillery gun.
  3. PK-1 Hawker Fury

    The first of the Furies, and the first of the Matchbox kits, if by no means first in this GB - Matchboxs Hawker Fury. My entry here is an earlyish boxing of the kit (1975 according to Scalemates) I've built the kit before, a long time back, and can not recall any problems. Looking at the plastic now, all I can comment on now is a coulple of ejector pins on the underside of thw top wing, and some sink in the undercarriage legs. Nothing that can't be sorted out... Depending on mood, I may try to do something about the cockpit - the seat is an unbelievable bench, there is no joystick, nor instruments. Matchbox suggest this whole area is painted black, which would hide a wealth of sins (this is a 1972/3 kit, released before Tamigawa began to up the game). After market stuff - I have Model Alliance's Wings of Silver Part 1 decal set. That contains one Fury I (RAF Cranwell), and two Fury IIs (25 and 41 Squadrons), and a Yahu instrument panel. The Matchbox transfers (decals) look as if they have survived well, so I may stay with their 43 Squadron offering. Even with camera shake, the Yahi IP looks stunning: If I 'improve' the 'pit, that will go in.
  4. Casting with plaster

    I hope this isn't too late for you Different plasters have different mixing ratios. Even then, standard weight ratios depend on how the plaster was stored, and how much water has been absorbed by the powder. I make plaster moulds, mixing the plaster by eye. Wearing a plastic glove is a good idea, I generally use one nitrile glove on my working hand (right in my case). Not essential, but ... Avoid breathing plaster dust! Flexible bowles are easier to clean up afterward, the dried plaster will crack off, and any residue can be wiped. Failing that, use a throw-away pot (e.g. old yoghurt pot), but watch out for unreachable corners. Put about as much water in your bowl as you want to fill the mould - maybe a little less. Have a plan incase you mix too much plaster - use it to form tree trunks or to support piles of rubble. Never mix plaster in a dirty bowl, it just makes life harder. Sprinkle the plaster in, a small handful at at time. Keep adding until the plaster forms a dome above. I'm told you should see it absorbing water and collapsing down under water - I never see that myself. I generally add a bit more plaster at this stage Let the plaster sit for a short while (30seconds, maybe a minute). Then, with your gloved hand, start mixing it, feel for any lumps, and rub them smooth between your finger and thumb. Again, let it rest again (not too long), before putting it into your moulds. The more you mix plaster, the quicker it will set. Heat (e.g. warm water) helps speed up setting too. If the plaster is getting stiff, it can still be moulded, but you may trap air bubbles on the surface. Pour your wet plaster into your moulds. After a short while you may see water forming on top of the mould. If that worries you, you can pat it off with a paper towel. Leave it to set some more. Gently test the back of your cast, the plaster should start getting harder after about 10-15 minutes. If it takes 1/2 hour, then there was probably too much water/not enough plaster in your mix. When the cast is hard, demould. If it feels slimy, use less water next time. If it feels crumbly, use less plaster. The plaster will get harder overnight. If you want to carve it, the carving will be easier when the cast is fresh. Setting plaster gives off heat. In small volumes that is an indication the plaster is starting to set. In large volumes (e.g. body casting) that can cause burns. HTH
  5. 4th HMS Ark Royal

    I'm not sure, but this article might be of help: http://www.carrierbuilders.net/element/element.php?id=569
  6. Matchbox II GB Chat

    Thanks John. It is an unusual looking aircraft, and the complete model would look good on the table. I've opened the box, and feel it would (just) pass the 25% rule, so not really a collectable Thanks Enzo, what surprises me is that some are still in their plastic wrappings - I didn't know I could resist looking at the plastic with my fingers...
  7. Airfix 1/48th Walrus

    Great to see this is out, it's a great looking kit, and I'll follow your build with interest.
  8. Matchbox II GB Chat

    I have a small stash of Matchbox kits ... I have fond memories of converting the Siskin to MkIII standard (different fuselage and, maybe, tail skid), but it might be good to build one of the others?
  9. One of the comments in that RAF Museum Stranraer history is a mention that the surviving aircraft has a door from a DC3. This was probably added c. Nov 1961 (p.6). Looking at period photos, there was a window that was lost when the door was added. The door is still present on the museum example, and has been included in the Matchbox kit Changes Still needs work
  10. I stumbled on this note: https://www.rafmuseum.org.uk/documents/collections/70-AF-645-Stranraer.pdf The individual aircraft history for the RAF Museum's Supermarine Stranraer 920/CF-BXO. I'm interested to see that the aircraft apparently retained wooden propellors up until this time, and hadn't been converted to use deHavilland propellors. I have a M/Box Heyford in the loft, wonder what the props on that are like {edit} .... Well, I had a look at the Heyford - the props are about the same diameter as the Stranraer's, but rotate the opposite way {/edit}
  11. Curtiss Racer #3

    This is a very interesting build, and read. I'm in admiration of your rebuilding of those floats- excellent
  12. I'm not sure if this came up in chat but ... https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_seaplanes_and_amphibious_aircraft ... a list of seaplanes by country of origin then by manufacturer and type
  13. I think they invented water bound aircraft? That's a good looking 'pit you have there Peter, very 'robust'
  14. That's a nice looking kit pabbi, I'll watch with interest.
  15. I couldn't resist starting today ... Traditionally, we start with the cockpit, and that's what Machbox suggest in their instructions, so I started with the tail plane - what could go wrong there? Well, I only dropped it in my glue puddle - and this is the upper side. Easy enough to clean up later, but ... the first component, with a whole room full of carpet to find, lands in 1/4" of glue Ok, that can be dealt with that later. There is other progress to report. The beaching gear location holes have been plugged - my intent is to build a sea base for the Stranrarer later, and those holes are blind on the real thing. The Mushroom book about the Walrus and Stranraer (p104) shows a photo of "a half door fitted in the bulkhead to divide the fuselage into watertight sections". There is more detail in the photo, but this will be OK in normal light. I don't intend glazing the windows at this stage, the plan is to deal with them later.