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About Filler

  • Birthday 10/16/1975

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    Late cold war aircraft and modelling them in 1:48

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  1. Is dipping a canopy into a jar of Klear not the done thing? I presume that by 'drift' you will be using an airbrush to apply? I've been actually dipping it into a jar of the stuff and letting it sit and dry after wicking excess away with tissue. I liked the idea of dipping as I have always been frightened of clogging the airbrush and struggling to clean it. I now wonder if dipping is adding a lot of extra thickness to the clear part and even to the point of creating a fit issue.
  2. It was Mr Surfacer 1500 white, thinned for airbrushing with Mr Levelling Thinner. A droplet fell from the tip of a pipette. I could see from the inside of the canopy that it had found its way through. I pulled away the tape and wiped with a tissue, but of course that just left a smudgy mark. I'm sure I can recover this quite easily, especially that I now know what to try and what definitely not to try. I will dip in Klear to dissolve and immediately wash the part in soapy water and dry. Then I'll give it a quick polish with Tamiya compound if necessary and then start again. Thanks again for all the advice everyone.
  3. Not sure where I got the acetone idea from. I have a vague recollection of hearing it can be used to clean Klear from an airbrush in nail polish remover form. Or was that ammonia in the form of window cleaning products? But then I seem to also think that I've some of these can damage the airbrush too. I will just go with the Klear to clean and Klear to re-coat.
  4. Thanks gents. I think I’ll use @Mike’s suggestion of dipping again to clean and I guess once again to re-Klear. I’ve definitely learnt a few things. Other than what to do in these circumstances, I learnt not to prep paint over parts and that if you mask a canopy, it’s best to paint it soon and not leave it weeks until the tape starts to lose its adhesion.
  5. I somehow dripped a drop of thinned Mr Surfacer onto a canopy part that was masked ready for painting. Clearly it wasn’t masked well enough (and quite a while ago in truth) and it got under the Tamiya tape. The part had been dipped in the original Klear before it was masked. What’s my best course of action? Some liquid removal technique like IPA or acetone? Or should I just sand back and polish and re-Klear it? Any advice is greatly appreciated.
  6. Amazing photos as always. As an aside, I can't seem to figure why these aren't green though. They are the new-ish 'Junglies' aren't they?
  7. I feel bad because whilst I do look at the exhibitors stands, I do rather see shows as a rare opportunity to do some old fashioned shopping with browsing, impulse purchases and not having to pay a small fortune in combined p&p.
  8. I don't have a problem paying a few quid to get in to a show - although the chance would be a fine thing around here!!!! Thank you Bolton and Huddersfield. As a punter and not a club member, the under the table thing is part of the attraction of shows as there is always the hope you might pick up a nice bargain of something a bit less common. But a no UTT stuff rule wouldn't stop me going, as my primary motivation for going to shows is that they're the nearest thing we have now to a bricks and mortar model shop. Lovely to pick up a variety of paints and tools and maybe a kit or two without clocking up 10, 20, 30 quid in post and packaging charges.
  9. We’ll your kit bashing definitely paid off. I think I’ll just make do with Tamiya’s effort for what would be a mid 80’s aircraft. And sorry to bombard you with questions, but did you use Archer rivets? They look very good compared to running a rivet wheel thing about.
  10. That is amazing work. Very impressed! A Tamiya A-10 is next up on my build list, and I was interested by what you said below. I have read before that the Monogram kit is still believed to have the most accurate shape of all A-10 kits in this scale to date. But what about the skin made you use the Monogram tail parts in place of Tamiya's but still retain the rest of Tamiya's kit?
  11. I suspected that would be the case. Oh well. Thanks for answering my question.
  12. Having seen @spruecutter’s brilliant build of a Belgian Sea King from the 72nd Revell kit, I was wondering if it’s possible to produce one from a Hasegawa kit in 48th. The prices for the UK versions tend to be a little high, and as the Belgian looks the best in that camo and orange scheme, I thought maybe one of the US versions might be usable. Or is the Mk.48 much closer to the UK Westland aircraft?
  13. Excellent work again @bar side. Getting all that electronics in there is very impressive. Do you have any other red and white trainers built? You were doing a scratch Dominie weren’t you?
  14. That’s an absolute beauty. And I agree that it’s probably the best looking scheme a Sea King has ever worn (although I did like the Royal Navy’s SAR choppers too).
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