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    • Mike

      Ongoing DDoS Attack causing Forum Slowness   26/04/17

      In case you have missed the announcement, the reason that the forum has been slow at times since the minor version update the other day is due to a Denial of Service attack, brute force attack on our email, and judging by the lag with our FTP response, that too.  If you're feeling like you're experiencing a glitch in the Matrix, you're not wrong.  This is the same MO as the attack in September 2016 that occurred when we transitioned to the new version 4 of the software.  We're currently working with US and UK cyber-crime departments, who specialise in this sort of thing, and we're hopeful that we'll be able to track them down this time by using the accumulated evidence already held.    We are pretty certain that it's a continuation of the same attack last year, only at a reduced intensity to deter people from using the site "because it's terribly slow", rather than taking it down completely, and we're also sure of the motivations of those responsible.  Spite.   Please bear with us in the interim, and wish us luck in dealing with these.... "people".

Dave Swindell

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  1. Hi there, nice to see another one of these being built, my attempt is here. Corrections 1) definately, I think the hull should taper less / be a little wider at the forward sponson as well. Didn't attempt correcting this on mine. 2) didn't really notice this one, you may be right, but it's quite subtle if it is there. 3 & 5 corrected on my build, plus a couple of other minor changes as well.
  2. On a whim after seeing clipper's post above, I ordered this one, just over £7 with free postage and it arrived today, seller was Speedyhen, and lived up to her name! Small A5 softback, 76 pages published 2015. A quick flick through shows a potted history of dazzle camouflage in WW1 and the people involved, well illustrated throughout with contemporary colour illustrations/paintings and B&W photos of personalities etc. Looks like interesting background reading, but isn't going to solve Ray S's puzzle or mine. Bedtime reading this week, will report back when finished.
  3. Hi Steve Just an educated guess. Don't know what damage was done during the accident, but it was more than deemed repairable on squadron. As they were looking for airframes for remanufacture into LF V's, this looks like it was a prime candidate. From accident to reissue to service was just over 3 months, which I'd say was a reasonable timeframe for assessment, remanufacture, and testing. I'd suggest the damaged airframe was trucked in bits to AST, and as mentioned above by others, the fuselage emerged with other reconditioned components attached as the next incarnation of W3834.
  4. From Morgan/Shacklady Spitfire the History Supermarine Aviation (Vickers) Ltd Contract No. B19713/39 Second order for 450 Spitfire F Mk I dated 22 March 1940, built as Mks VA, VB between April and October 1941 includes serial batch W3814-W3853 W3834 2033 EA Holt XII FF 2-9-41 38MU 5-9 266S 13-9 154S 23-2-42 FAAC 12-4 ASTE M45M install 5USA 6-8 421S 10-3-43 416S 23-5 401S 1-6 126S 10-8 HAL 12-11 1659CU 5-1-45 SOC 17-9 Translates as:- W3834 - RAF Serial No 2033 - Supermarine construction no EA - Manufactured at Eastleigh Holt XII - Presentation name, one of the fourteen Spitfires presented to the RAF by the Canadian Holt family FF 2-9-41 - First Flight 38MU 5-9-41 - to 38 Maintenance unit for checks/equipment installation 266S 13-9-41 - to 266 Squadron 154S 23-2-42 - to 154 Squadron FAAC 12-4-42 - Flying Accident category AC (repair on site by contractor) ASTE M45M install - Air Service Training Exeter, Merlin 45M (medium supercharged, low level engine similar to 45 with cropped supercharger) installation 5USA 6-8-42 - 5th Squadron of the 52nd Fighter Group, USAAF at Eglinton, Northern Ireland 421S 10-3-43 - to 421 Squadron 416S 23-5-43 - to 416 Squadron 401S 1-6-43 - to 401 Squadron 126S 10-8-43 - to 126 Squadron HAL 12-11-43 - to Heston Aircraft Ltd 1659CU 5-1-45 - to 1659 Conversion Unit SOC 17-9 - Struck off Charge 17-9-45 Re-engining at Exeter looks the most likely source of odd wings More here
  5. Ahh, I see what you're getting at now. Yes' I'd agree with most of what Troy said. Rather depends on how well they were stuck on in the first place (a used patch would generally have to be removed before a new one was fitted). Blown off by the blast from the guns - possible. Ripped off by the slipstream after bullets had punched through - highly likely. Came off in the belly landing - unlikely I think in this case, this looks like a very good controlled belly landing with minimal damage to the airframe, the badly worn paintwork appears to predate it's arrival in the field. Looking at the port outboard gun that has fired, there appears to still be a portion of the patch still attached in the lower outboard corner?
  6. Depending on how you're viewing the site, it isn't always immediately obvious which forum a post is in. As you don't mention any store by name in your post or subject line, I suspect Panzer Vor!!! missed that you'd posted in the Wonderland forum. As you're bigging them up anyway, an extra shoutout for them in the subject and post wouldn't do any harm :-)
  7. The patches over the gun ports were used to keep dirt out of the ports and gun barrels, and to help keep the guns warm and prevent them freezing by stopping cold air whistling down the port and out the ejection chute. They also served as an indication to armourers that the guns had been fired. The patch therefore sealed the gun port, and the first bullet fired would punch through the patch. The photo on the previous page shows the outboard and inboard guns of the group of 4 on the port wing have for some reason not fired, whilst the two in the middle and all 4 on the starboard wing have fired. All 8 should have operated together, so there's been some sort of problem with the 2 guns that didn't fire.
  8. I think you're right there John, and doing anything now would risk spoiling a great model. I've got a couple of Frsin ones in the stash, I think i'll put one of those together and see how it compares before investing in the Welsh kit.
  9. Hello Kev I'm quite surprised at your reaction to my post last night, and apologise that my wording of what I thought of as a friendly heads up to a potential inaccuracy, at a point where it could (and has been) easily rectified, has been perceived as something else. This was not my intent, and neither is this post. The first part of the post was a question to alert you to a potential problem and give you the opportunity to educate myself and others as to why this arrangement was chosen if my observations were incorrect. I based my orientation on the colours of the Kelvin's balls on the binnacle; as you modelled it originally, this put the binnacle at the rear of the wheelhouse, whereas the plans you posted on page 1 show the binnacle at the front of the wheelhouse, as do the photo's in the link I included of VIC32's wheelhouse interior. As the first photo you posted was of VIC32, I made the assumption that this was at least in part being used as a reference for the model. As you've now rotated the binnacle through 180 degrees, this now gives the correct orientation within the wheelhouse. The photo's, and the David Hayman program linked to on p1 also show, that on VIC32 at least, the gearing is forward of the wheel and the helmsman has enough room around the wheel to steer from either side, in front of or behind the wheel (and the program shows this being done whilst manoevring and on passage) I'm well aware that there were other arrangements for the layout of Clyde Puffers, and as it's your model, the wheelhouse design is entirely up to you. I've done my research, and I've done 37 years in the Merchant Navy, for the last 10 years I've been sailing as Chief Engineer. My advice was based on this and was, as far as I can see, factually correct. You are free to take or disregard my advice, it was offered with the best intent, and I apologise again that this was percieved otherwise. You're making a lovely little model, I've enjoyed watching it progress, and I wish you every sucsess in completing it. Best Regards Dave Swindell
  10. Before you put the roof on the wheelhouse Kev, are you sure you've got the relative positions of the binnacle and wheel correct? By my reconning, the binnacle should be hard up to the forward bulkhead in the centre, and the wheel should be directly behind it, with room between the aft bulkhead and the wheel for the helmsman to stand and steer, and room in front of the wheel to take bearings using the azimuth ring on the top of the compass. You've got the wheel hard up against the forward bulkhead and the binnacle directly behind the helmsman, it's neither use nor ornament there if you're trying to steer a compass bearing! Some useful photo's here of VIC32 with a couple of shots on the bridge, binnacle position is clearly shown, wheel less so, but the relative position of binnacle, wheel and helmsman is shown.
  11. Oil Cooler, same as on the Gladiator.
  12. Good start there Ray. Strange they went for the offbeat 1:300 scale rather than the much more popular 1:293rd ;-) I think i'd have checked the frame widths on their stations on the baseplate, then marked and cut the waterline before attaching the frames, purely for ease of cutting, but it shouldn't make much difference. Don't forget mast rake, the foot of the mast on the waterline will be slightly further forward than on the main deck, but you knew that anyway, didn't you?
  13. An airbrush, once you've learnt how to use it, can give you an excellent finish, but that finish is dependent on the quality of the surface it is being applied to. Check some of the airliner build threads on here, there's a lot of very good models that have been finished with aerosol paint cans ( eg Halfords car paints) and small details brush painted. Again surface preparation is key to a good finish, but there's no need for a big outllay for an airbrush and compressor. The paint seems a bit more expensive initially, but each can wiil cover several models. With good brushes and a bit of practice, it is possible to get a good finish brush painting, but this is easier with matt paints than with gloss. You've made a very good effort with this 195, and my advice for your next couple of models is to concentrate on improving your basic skills, you should get maximum results with minimum outlay. Look at other peoples builds an see how they assemble the model, eliminate the join lines and prepare the surfaces for paint. Get yourself a spray can of primer ( I would suggest Halfords ordinary white primer) and the basic colours for your chosen scheme ( Halfords Appliance White, Nissan Silver and Racking Grey will cover the basics for a lot of modern schemes, with the decals or maybe one other colour covering the rest, cost £30-35) Pick your next model, then start a Work in Progress thread before starting the kit. There'ĺl be plenty of people on here willing to give help, suggestions and advice at each step of the way. When the build is complete you can look back through the build log and see which elements worked well, and which didn't work quite as planned, and take these lessons forward to improve your next model. Take your time and enjoy the build, learning new techniques and ending up with a model better than the last one can give a lot of satisfaction. Throwing a lot of money in tools and products at a kit without mastering the basics will usually end in disappointment when the results don 't meet up to expectations.
  14. Wot Troffa sez- green glass = NVG compatible
  15. Excellent job as always, John. Got a few of these to build myself one day, incuding Dan Dair and early BEA Peony scheme.