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    • Mike

      Ongoing DDoS Attack causing Forum Slowness   26/04/17

      In case you have missed the announcement, the reason that the forum has been slow at times since the minor version update the other day is due to a Denial of Service attack, brute force attack on our email, and judging by the lag with our FTP response, that too.  If you're feeling like you're experiencing a glitch in the Matrix, you're not wrong.  This is the same MO as the attack in September 2016 that occurred when we transitioned to the new version 4 of the software.  We're currently working with US and UK cyber-crime departments, who specialise in this sort of thing, and we're hopeful that we'll be able to track them down this time by using the accumulated evidence already held.    We are pretty certain that it's a continuation of the same attack last year, only at a reduced intensity to deter people from using the site "because it's terribly slow", rather than taking it down completely, and we're also sure of the motivations of those responsible.  Spite.   Please bear with us in the interim, and wish us luck in dealing with these.... "people".

Work In Progress

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  1. They've corrected the name! Good. I wouldn't mind if they did an actual Yak-54, as well
  2. Obviously you know you would have to change the engine and find a Harvard retracting undercarriage and some wheel wells and doors. I believe also that the wing itself is also different in some ways, though I am not enough of a type expert to give you definitive chapter and verse on all the visual differences. The wingtip is certainly different and looks like a half-way house between the original rounded type and the late T-6 type. The pic here will show you clearly
  3. I don't know why they're calling that a Yak-54, because it isn;t. It's a Yak-52B. A Yak-54 is one of these: completely different airframe, zero commonality with the Yak-50/52/52 family apart from the engine.
  4. You;re welcome to build whatever you llke, however you like. There are people who try very hard to make a faithful 3D image of a specific moment in history, and that's probably the dominant culture of scale modellers on the internet. There are people who like to make reasoned estimates of what a given undocumented moment in history probably looked like, in the absence of reliable evidence. There are people who like to make speculative, what-of kind of things. There are people who care little for the historical facts and just want to make something that pleases them visually. Some people (including me) are in different categories on different days, according to mood and the purpose I have for the individual model. All of these are branches of model-making and in general the ony time an exponent of speculative or imaginary modelling will be criticised is if they misrepresent a speculation or re-imagining as historical fact.
  5. Here's the C-47 end, under the fin, which is why a C-47 doesn't have the DC-3 tailcone tapering off to a point.
  6. Good question. The kit is a long wing variant so without serious modification can only form the basis of a late B, or a C or later. Late B models had the long wing, according to this:
  7. Just buy one from Halfords and get a couple of cheap bagged-shot kits from any major model show (anything really) for a couple of quid each and practice. It's not difficult. Main thing for beginners to any kind of paint spraying, whether airbrush, full size spraygun or aerosol can, is be patient. Most people at first try to put on too much paint too quickly and get runs. If that happens stop immediately. Just mist on the first couple of fine coats moving the spraycan fairly quickly, and then when they've flashed off try a slightly slower-moving, heavier coat. Move your whole arm left and right across the job maintaining a constant distance, rather than pivoting left and right from a central point. Don't depress or release the button while the nozzle is pointed at the model, in case it spits. Start each spray pass an inch or so to one side, and finish it an inch or so to the other side. Let each coat flash off before you re-coat. Sometimes it's helpful to hang whatever you're painting on a couple of wire hooks suspended from something like a stepladder. For small things like a 1/72 aeroplane or a collection of undercarriage doors etc you might want to secure them down to a block of scrap wood with blu-tack on the other side. Otherwise the blast of the nozzle may blow your wet-painted part away. It's best done outdoors in calm dry warm weather, in inside a dust-free heated garage with good ventilation. It helps to warm the can in a basin of warm water for a few minutes, and let it rest in the warm water while the coats flash off. Shake the can for a long time before starting work, and for a minute or so between coats.
  8. That's been my favourite tank forever, mainly because of having the Dinky one as a small child.
  9. I never paint anything white using model paint except for the smallest brush painted details e.g. on figures and cockpit details. Everything of any size on a model that needs to be white I do with aerosol car primer (usually including the entire airframe and any other relevant major components such as a prop that needs yellow tips), and then I paint any other colours needed over the top. Sometimes I even do that to part or all of a whole sprues before taking parts off. That approach has never given me the slightest difficulty, whereas brush painting white over any sort of area using mdel paint has always been difficult and led to unpleasant-looking results.
  10. And do it over white primer.
  11. It is VERY easy to burn through the paint with any sort of Dremel: the rotational speed is rather too quick even at the slowest setting, so T7's pal must be very delicate in his touch.
  12. Yes, I think the variations on the B-17 and other recently-introduced kits are "new versions of still-new kits" rather than attempts to extend the life of genuinely "old Airfix" kits.
  13. That Hasegawa BMW 2002 is something I'll look forward to.
  14. Very attractive models, especially the turretless prototype
  15. The fading and wear on the markings is very nicely done. So many people age the basic camo colours and then leave the markings relatively unscathed.