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About TheRealMrEd

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    Established Member
  • Birthday 06/04/44

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  • Location
    Marietta, Georgia USA
  • Interests
    1/72 US military aircraft and small scale r/c aircraft.

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  1. Hello, John Your "E" turned out beautifully. Was glad to see that some parts found their way to an excellent home. Keep crankin' 'em out, I like watching as I may build another myself, one day. Best wishes, Ed Ellickson
  2. Thanks, Martin. Now to continue with a brief update... There are several things that needed to be added to the F-100F to make it a Wild Weasel variant, shown in the next photo. This photo is available on-line, but in a smaller, hard-to-read size. I can't remember where I found this larger one, so I will post it rather than a link. I will also take it down, if anyone objects. I would suggest that to those who want it, grab it now! The first thing that I'll add before closing the fuse is the cooling intake for the Doppler Nav, located on the rear fin. I began by using a tiny flat file to file small openings at the correct location, on both vertical stabilizer (fin) halves: In the above pic, "A" represents the filed openings, and "B" represents the small pieces of 5 thou card that will be used to make the outsides of the intake. In the next pic, "A" shows one of these pieces glued into place, while "B" shows a part positioned near it's final resting place: Then, the next pic shows it's result as the fins are glued together: I'll try to remember to post a side shot of this area later on, as I forgot to shoot a pic before this update. That's all for now, more next time. Ed
  3. Hello again! Having slightly healed from my previous incursions into the modeling arena, I shall once again throw my body into the breach, too see whether I have yet bitten off more than I can chew! My efforts this time will center upon flailing away at the 1/72 Trumpeter F-100F offering, trying both to make it look a little more accurate, and at the same time, trying to alter it into something resembling an F-100F "Wild Weasel" version of Vietnam War vintage. There are several items involving these two goals; some of which I will treat, and -- as is my custom -- others, which I will ignore. That being said, here goes... To begin, a little comparison is in order; primarily some comparison between the Trumpeter kit and the Esci kit, which has a long and oft' renamed history. Since I had both laying about, these were my only choices. Side-by-side, the Trumpeter kit is a bit long in the cockpit area: In the above photo, the Esci kit behind, the Trumpeter kit in front. Next, a better angle on the problem: Next, comparison to drawings; the Detail and Scale offering is what I had lying about. First, the Esci kit: As you can see, the Esci kit isn't bad, most notably a disagreement about the fuse depth, as well as the rail height. Next, the Trumpeter kit, same drawing: Here, the fuse depth is right on, but the cockpit is way too long. The tail is about the same as Esci's. The red line indicates where the rear edge of the nose intake cone should line up. From above: BTW, the comparison of the two kits' wing can be found on the WIP for my F-100C.HERE Yup, the cockpit length is definitely a problem, so let's get started trying to fix that little puppy! First, let e state that either kit option required a new canopy. The Esci has the bogus center frame at the third forward, vs correct center point of the cockpit. The Trumpeter canopy (and kit) are much too narrow. I have ordered a Rob Taurus, and I sure hope that it's the same length as the ESCI, caused that's what I used to determine the cutting points! After a lot of study and burnt offerings, I finally decided that the best place that would let me remove the excess length, and damage everything else as little as possible, would be along the slanted panel line thoughtfully provided by Trumpeter, and show here enhanced by a marker: I determined that a piece about 21 scale inches or 8mm would need to be removed -- MEASURED ALONG THE HORIZONTAL DATUM LINE, NOT PERPENDICULAR TO THE CUT LINES! Next, showing the left fuse pieces joined, and the amount that needs to be removed (along with the location of same) on the intake trunk: In the pic above, "A" denotes the part to be removed from the intake; "B" shows where the intake mounting lugs need to be shortened on each side, to fit the shortened fuse halves; and "C" shows that the bottom of the nose no longer aligns with the rest of the fuse, and will have to be filed, later. In the above pic, the right fuse side nose end has not yet been cut off to fit the Esci intake copy that I will use, but the right side has been cut and shortened like the left side. HOWEVER, you will not that I screwed up when cutting the left side and had made the cut poorly. This resulted in the left nose half being too short at the top (near the cockpit), which resulted in the whole left nose half being rotated upward, and to be short. The fix was to re-open the left side seam and insert a wedge of kit sprue, to fill the gap as well as align the nose halves properly: When cleaned up later, this will fix the problem. Next is shown the completed right half, with the nose part joined and the resultant shortening of the intake trunk mounting lug holes, marked "A", and the shortened mounting lugs, marked "B". Also not the shortened intake trunk assembly, itself. Next, we move on to the cockpit itself. Let me state here that the single largest problem in trying to depict an accurate F-100F Wild Weasel aircraft is that there seems to be zero, zip, nada available on what the Weasel cockpit looks like. Many searches on other forums, etc has been fruitless. If ANYONE has a copy of an original Weasel manual, or photos of the real deal, please chip in. (Of course, they're very likely still Classified, and for good reason!) In the pic above, "A" denotes where the front of the cockpit assembly sets too low, and "B", where it sets too high. The solution for me was to saw off the upsweep at the rear of the intake trunking, and to sand the bottom of the cockpit, to allow everything to sit flat. Results are shown below: Next, we start installing parts into the fuse halves, starting with some lead in front, atop the intake trunking. Then the tailpipe (painted inside) was installed into the tail. Note also the wedges of plastic card inserted into the edges at the front of the inake trunk, to cause the trunk to better fit the Esci intake front that I'll be using, as per my F-100C build. In the above photo, I take special care to see that the two mating surfaces pointed to by the arrow are flush with each other. Well, at least that's a start, and, as promised, it is a bit "whacked-up"! If you're interested so far, please feel free to tag along. Later, Ed
  4. Thanks to all for the kind comments. This model was a learning experience on all fronts! The mass balancers are the little teardrop-shaped-thingies-on-a-stick that attach to the top and bottom of the elevator to counterbalance the weight of the elevator. Mine broke off numerous times. Refer to Cookies link in the WIP for how they are SUPPOSED to look. BTW, Cookie was also right about needing to tone down the yellow decals. I sprayed overall with light white and grey to sort "dust" the model, and while it helped a little more is needed. Any tips out there? Ed
  5. Thanks for posting your link, Cookie! By each of us posting our wins and loses, perhaps the next guy up can beat ALL the issues. We'll see. Ed
  6. Just a few pics to show my recently completed 1/72 RS P-38E, in the marking of the second P-38E flown by then Major George Laven during the Aleutian campaign: Markings are a little speculative, as discussed in the WIP here: P-38E WIP One thing to note -- if you build the RS P-38's, leave the mass balancers off till the very last step. I knocked mine off many time and finally lost them both. Have another kit on order and will try to copy and re-install them later on! Thanks for looking, Ed
  7. Hello everyone! This will not be a "normal: WIP, because the model is already built. However, I feel that certain aspects of the model deserve some comment. Without further ado... I was researching the colorful aircraft flown by Col George Laven (mostly his F-104C and F-84E and F-100C aircraft), when I began to uncover more of his interesting story. While he didn't get the first kills in the Aleutian campaign, he did get two early ones, in 1942, flying in his P-38E "Itsy-Bitsy", buzz #76. (His F-100C had the same buzz #, which is why he "adopted" it as his own). He also had two additional Aleutian kills, I think in his second P-38E, also named "Itsy-Bitsy", which featured rather "unusual" markings. I believe he had the next two kills in the second aircraft, because there is a press clipping on-line showing his first P-38E #76, on the runway at Dallas, Texas, where he had flown it home for repairs. I do not know whether this first aircraft ever returned to the war. Interestingly, Laven got the last confirmed P-38 kill of the Pacific campaign, flying a P-38L-5-LO, named "Itsy-Bitsy II" -- the subject of the Hobby Boss 1/72 P-38L kit. See a pattern developing here? Also of curiosity, he is often left off the list of P-38 aces, even though he clearly had 5 confirmed kills! But, I digress. Back to the subject of THIS story, the RS Aleutian P-38E Lighting kit (which has parts to build the P-38 E,F,G,and H models, if you are so inclined. You'll have to furnish your own decals for other marks). The RS kit conveniently provided the decals for BOTH of then Major Laven's P-38E's, #76 AND #80, which is the subject of current discussion. The kit looks like this: As would be expected, the detail on this kit are finer than those of the venerable Airfix kit of yore, but that kit is still very presentable. For me, the deal sealer was the decals. I plugged along, and the first thing to be aware off, if you're a beginner, is that there are NO locating pins anywhere on this model, so nothing snaps together. You must hold the pieces in alignment and apply very thin cement, to the inside of the parts where possible, and on the outside, where not. This resulted for me, in virtually every seam needed a little (but only a little) filler: Here, let me put in a plug for the Montex Mini masks #SM 72208, for the RS P-38 model. It says it's for the G/H models, but worked fine, as you can see in the photos. They are black, as shown above, and sturdy enough that I'm going to attempt to use them twice, being the cheap sort of miscreant that I am. These are particularly useful for the canopy side windows, as trying to otherwise mask the tiny frame would be maddening. They also give you wheel masks which are not perfect, but okay, and you really don't need them anyway, as the wheels aren't that hard to paint otherwise. In any event, I had struggled along to this point, when I discovered that Cookenbacher had built one last year or so for the WW II group build. (I saw that thread one time, and wish I had had it to start with, but didn't. Also, after seeing it once, I couldn't find it again! Cookenbacher, if you see this, please feel free to post a link to your work, as there is no need to duplicate it here, when your work is certainly worth seeing! There was also another workup of an RS P-38D, but all the pictures had gone away, so it wasn't very useful -- pity. I had two major problems with the kit. One that Cookie described -- the fit of the cockpit was pretty bad. I managed to straighten out most of it, except the seat, which despite much sanding to lower it into the cockpit, still prevented the canopy from fitting down properly. I finally laid it back a bit, somewhat like a recliner! RS makes a resin cockpit for this kit, and I have acquired on for the other P-38E that I hope to eventually build, and will see whether the resin kit solves that problem. The other major problem I had was the fit if the wheel wells into the booms. I never did quite get that right. One other thing -- this aircraft has props that rotate counter to each other. On many forums, I have read of the problems that many modelers have when trying to align propeller blades that simply don't "snap" together nicely. I have therefore decided to put forth my own method, which is both cheap and certain. (Some of you have already seen this on my P2V-3 Neptune thread, so you can just skip this part! My method requires a piece of cardboard with a tiny hole in the center of a circle that is divided into four, and also three parts. You could go crazy and draw 5 parts too, for those of you who might use such things (You know who you are!) Anyway, my cardboard in the side of my Doc O'brian's Weathering Powders box, on the theory that I'll probably not lose the poders, and so therefor might not lose the propeller jig! To the left, above, are shown the box with pattern, and the props, painted and with decals installed. The second pic shows the prop hub installed into the hole in the cardboard, which fortuitously, happens to lie approximately in the center of the alignment pattern. Also shown is one piece of plastic card glued on it's edge, and on either side of it, more scrap card; these both to raise the tip of the prop, to keep it in the same plane as the hub. This is, of course, so the the prop blades lean neither for nor aft from their arc of motion. The edge-glued (all white glue) piece is simply to establish the angle-of-attack or "thrust pitch" of the prop blades, as shown i picture 3 above. You can add the extra bits and do all blades at once, or do as I do, glue up one blade at a time, let dry, then rotate the glued prop and glue up another blade, etc. End result looks like this: Since the blades are "handed", just use the opposite side of the alignment lines on the jig for the "other" sided prop. Duck Soup! The last point of interest for this project is the rather unusual marking of the aircraft, hence the "Mystery" title of the thread. There was a cover of a 1943 issue of Life Magazine that featured this aircraft: Discussion thread here: 3-toned lightning If you read the thread you will probably determine that the most likely meaning of this photo was than supplies being hard to come by in the Aleutians (The Forgotten War), maintenance crews used whatever they had on hand, probably Neutral Grey to paint surface badly eroded by the volcanic, pumice-like dust of the Aleutian Islands. I preferred to imagine that this photo depicted a trial of the "Haze" type paints, originally used on the F-4 Lightning reconnaissance type, and rumored to have been tried (and liked) by some fighter groups. Not sure we'll ever know for certain, but until/unless we do, my guess is as good as anybody's.; though probably not as informed! Lastly, by way of a teaser photo, and as a way to show the results of the canopy masks as well as the result of my first attempt at the "salt" technique of depicting paint weathering, I present the following photo of the completed model: If you want to see more, RFI is here: RFI Link Thanks for looking, Ed Insert other media
  8. Hi, Jack109, Been busy for a few days and I didn't see your query. The Aqua Gloss (ALC 600) is readily available at Amazon and E-Bay, and also at pretty much any hobby shop that carries the Aclad II line. Average price I'm seeing is around $8.00 U.S. plus shipping, or about $10.00 U.S. total. I found it in Australia for slightly more. It is certainly not as cost effective as as Future, but as I've said, I like it a little better. One thing to be aware of the the Aqua Gloss -- do NOT shake it, stir it or thin it! I use my Aztek brush with a .4mm tip, as my Iwata with the .3 mm tip causes a little graininess, which the larger orifice does not. Lastly, turn the air pressure UP to about 20-30 psi. Ed
  9. Hi Matt, I would recommend that you give this method a try. It's for aircraft, but I see no reason it shouldn't solve your problem. Ed
  10. Having used Future/Klear for decades, I just tried (for the first time) Alclad II Aqua Gloss Clear (ALC 600). It is thinner than Klear, works even better on canopies and can also be used over hi-shine Alclad finishes without killing the shine. It is said to also prevent the canopy from fogging up when using CA, but I have not tried that yet. It seems to be a tougher finish than Klear, and cleans up with water -- BEFORE it dries. I HIGHLY recommend this product! Ed
  11. Thanks Dana, I thought that as well when I saw the on-line copies of this photo, precisely because of the "blue" scattered about on the hardstand. However, the photo in the book is a better copy, so I assumed the author knew what he was talking about. Ed
  12. Sorry to dig up this past thread, but new evidence (at least to me) has come up that changes my opinion on the matter. On my recently observed birthday, my wife gave me a copy of a book "WWII American War Eagles 1937 - 1942" , subtitled "America's Arsenal of Democracy - Vol 1", featuring all original Kodachrome color photos, by Mr Warren M Bodie. A beautiful book of photos, many of lesser-seen types of aircraft in U.S. (and some British markings). I highly recommend it. In any event, one of the photos was relevant to our discussion here, about the odd coloring on the P-38E, and single P-38F on a LIFE magazine cover. The photo and the page are reproduced here, which is only fair, given the plug for the book. This photo is readily available on-line, but the book has a better copy: This, for me, is clearly the same as the type of markings on the Life cover aircraft. I present it here FWIW. Ed
  13. Not sure what's next, Roger. Am working on several things simultaneously, and I'll have to see whether any might make a good WIP. Will certainly have a few RFI's. Want to clean up a few hangers one before the next long build. BTW, should have mentioned that I used Alclad II Aqua Gloss Clear (#600) to overcoat the entire model to protect the decals over the years. I would say that it didn't obscure the metallic shine at all. Also, I dipped the main canopy into some of this, and I think my days of using the old Future or Pledge MFC are about over. This stuff is great! Ed
  14. Thanks for the kind words, everyone . There were times when I wasn't sure I'd get this one built! Ed
  15. John, A classic example of old school "kit-bashing" that I am very happy to see. I wish more modelers would give a try at chopping up some plastic! The look of the model is so unique, that I wouldn't worry about the finish that much. After all, you can always ask any critics to compare it to their XF-104.... Best wishes, and can't wait to see your next effort! Ed