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TheRealMrEd

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About TheRealMrEd

  • Rank
    Established Member
  • Birthday 06/04/1944

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Marietta, Georgia USA
  • Interests
    1/72 US military aircraft and small scale r/c aircraft.

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  1. Spitfire Mk22/24.***Finished*****

    Steve, it certainly looks the part. Well done! Ed
  2. "Keepers of the Flame."

    Outstanding!...Well done! Ed
  3. Matchbox RF-101B Voodoo

    Thanks gents! She really came out far better than I thought it would in the beginning. I surprised myself with how well this oft-forgotten kit turn out. She was prettier than I would have guessed! Ed
  4. Matchbox Gallery

    As promised in the build thread, here are the finished pictures of my Matchbox RF-101B, from kit PK-411. It depicts a bird from the 192nd Tactical Reconnaissance Squadron, Reno Nevada, around 1972, more or less. The kit itself was not a hard built, and it is reasonably accurate. It mostly just lacks detail. If you add a little here and there, it dresses up pretty nicely! Thanks for looking! Ed
  5. JohnR! Save your pennies and get it! I paid far more for this on in a bidding war on E-bay, but I was glad to get it! Sadly, a lot of the resin fighter-sized kits are in that price bracket today. The exact same molding were selling under $50.00 just a few years back... Ed
  6. Matchbox RF-101B Voodoo

    The tape seals worked out okay, I think. Next time, I'll try and make them a bit more narrow. In any event, I added a few more small antennas here and there, touched up a little paint, and then decided she's probably about as good as she;ll ever be, so I'll call this one done. Since there was no place to set the model down on it's back without breaking off antennae to show the underside, please excuse the hairy hand in the photo! Now, as I read and understand, the finished photos are supposed to be posted in the GB Gallery, so here's one more teaser, and I'll post the rest over there! Thanks for all kind comments, and for stopping by... Ed
  7. Matchbox RF-101B Voodoo

    Hi all, Back for more flogging... The main thing about many Matchbox kits is their lack of detail. Ergo, one would imagine that the way to up the Matchbox game would be to add more detail. At least that's my theory, so here goes: The first thing is, I'd like to pass on a little tip. I'm not certain where I heard about it first, or when, but it's been a while. Kudos to it's original inventor, whomever they may be! Ending with the immediate loss of one of the add-on pitot tubes, as I was trying to install it. I had it grabbed with a pair of tiny tweezers (is one arm only a "tweeze"?), and of course, "bo-ing" -- off to neverland! I'd finally had enough. I dug out my trusty tin jar of Liquid Electrical Tape, and dipped the tips of three pair of my finest tweezers into the black sticky goo. I then took a scrap of typing paper, and wiped off all but the thinnest coat of goo. After it had dried, it looked like the picture below. The arrow points to a scrap of stretched sprue less than half a millimeter thick, that I was easily able to pick up with the treated tweezers, but it has the additional property of having a very faint grip, to help hang onto the part! Suddenly, no more lost little bits flying off into space. Of course, this fis is about 60 years too late, but better late than never, etc. This trick came in handy as I have managed to "pop-off" and lose both of the original pitots, and I've had to make new ones, from bits of this card and spruce -- and THEN reattach them to the model. The next thing was, for me, a new experiment. Making canopy seals for a model. You know, the often yellow or tan weatherstripping stuff that goes between the canopy glass and frames on some aircraft, particularly on the CENTURY series one like this one. Years ago, I had bought a set of masks and seals from Canuck models in 1/72 scale, put aside for my Revell F-101B, that I will surely someday build! Anyway, I sat down last week and tried to order 4 more sets from Canuck Models, and the website says they were not currently available. So, I used the contact on the website and asked whether they would be available in future. To date, I have received zero response. So, their loss is my learning gained,. as you will see. I cut some thin strips of Tamiya tape stuck to a piece of glass, and cut into tiny strips with a metal ruler and new #11 X-acto blade. I was originally going to do tape masks and then spray the seals with paint, but then I thought "What the heck... on the real aircraft they are sort of tape-like -- certainly not paint, so what if I made them OUT OF TAPE?" The windscreen was a little harder, but I had been using a (for me) new technique off cutting out my own tape canopy masks on recent builds, I started with doing the same thing -- sticking a piece of tape to the model on the toughest part of the windscreen to mask, and then I burnished it down with a toothpick, after which I traced the really prominent canopy frame edges with the pencil. Then, I took the marked up piece of tape off the model. I had a piece of thin plastic card that I had stuck Tamiya-like tape to either side for another project, so I stuck the marked up tape to that, as seen below: The card is the white part, old tape and newer tape are yellow, and the grey card is simply for contrast ( and it happens to be a photographic neutral grey card to help set the correct white balance for the camera). With a new #11 blade, I carefully cut thru all layers of tape and the card, following the outside of the pencil line. This was done in several shallow passes, making sure that the blade followed the same line each time. After the plastic card with tape on both sides had been cut away from the rest of the plastic card sheet, I then pried off the right side masking panel from the plastic card, put the tape onto the glass sheet, and cut inside the edge of the mask, leaving a continuous piece of tape, which was then applied to the model's windscreen, as shown by Figure "A" below. That is to say, I cut out the unneeded center part: : This was then poked and prodded into place, and then finally, burnished onto the model. Figure "B" above shows the other side mask ready to separate from the plastic sheet pattern, which I will save for the next VooDoo variant that I build, where I will only have to place the plastic onto some tape and then cut around it, rather than fitting on the model itself. Figure "C" shows the tape seals laid individually on the rest of the canopy with individual strips of tape. When all done I will dip the canopy in Future again, and paint more Future onto the widescreen, to seal the tape to the model. If I didn't like the outcome I could simply remove the Future with Original Windex (ammonia), and start over. In my case, even though the tape is a hair wide, I remind myself that this is a Matchbox kit, and it looks a lot better than when it started, so I'll quit with some improvement, and declare a personal Holiday! It will look okay in the final pictures, I think. Next, another detail. This shot of an F-101B (left, below) shows a double-bladed antenna that mounts just ahead of the afterburner, on the bottom of the right side: On the real RF-101B as shown on the right above, they have removed the two vertical antennae and their thin base, leaving only the thicker mounting base on the aircraft Also, please note the wing-tip tape or "slime" lights on the real aircraft. These, I believe, were always used whenever the fuselage tape lights were present. Below, on the model, Figure "A" shows where I added the same antenna base, of about 30 thou card, approx. 9mm x 4mm, then beveled at the edges: Figure "B" above shows my wingtip slime lights, probably a hair long, and because of the decal film and the curvature of the wing tip, impossible to get to lay as close side-by-side as they should. The arrow shows the small little gear door from the Hasegawa kit (omitted in the Matchbox kit). In reality, this door should be just proud of the wing, but because my added Hasegawa gear doors had no positive attachment points, these are glued to the wing and the gear door next to it, to strengthen the whole area. In real life, the gap would be maybe two inches. Below, a top view of the wing tip tape lights. Again, not perfect, but better than nothing: Next, a view of the nose: Figure "A" shows the windscreen tape in place. Again, a hair too wide I think, but better than nothing! Figure "B" shows the replaced pitot tube, while "C" shows the nose boom , constructed of tiny tubing and wire. The arrow points to the tiny radar warning sensors, added to the camera housing on both sides of the nose. Next, a little detail on the aft end: Figure "A" above shows another sensor, just a piece of sprue. This will be cut to length when dry. Figure "B" shows the clear rear nav light housing, added and faired into the vertical stabilizer, above the rudder. This will be polished, then masked off, and the whole area repainted. Well, that's if for now. Just a couple more details, a little touch-up and this puppy will be D-Dog-Dead-Done! Later, Ed
  8. Hello folks, Introducing my first completed build of 2018, the 1/72 Nostalgic Plastic resin rendition of the Convair YF-102 prototype. It was a chore and a challenge, and had languished to become a shelf queen for a long while. In fact, the build thread for it is over in ARC's "Shelf Queens II" Group Build: YF-102 Build Thread Some of my problems with this kit, as well as crying and gnashing of teeth, may be found there. But, here are the pics: Now, if someone would come out with a good plastic version! Ed
  9. Humbrol Silver Plate

    Thank you sir Knight, I'll c heck them out. Has anyone used either? Ed
  10. Humbrol Silver Plate

    Need a little help. Year ago, Humbrol made a color called Silver Plate, possibly HM20. It was a very bright, shiny silver, not quite chrome, that could be hand painted onto tiny details to look like silver buttons ( or aircraft hydraulic cylinders). Does anyone have any idea of a modern equivalent? The Silver Metallic #11 most recently sold by Humbrol is more like a semi-gloss aluminum shade, not silver. I'd prefer an enamel, but will entertain options. Thanks, Ed
  11. Matchbox RF-101B Voodoo

    Thanks, Dermot! Finally got some decals on her. The kit decals actually work very well, but I used an old Microscale sheet for the stars and bars, and fortunately, had a sheet of ancient Detail & Scale Formation Light Panels, which are the correct scale and color for the formating lights. (Word checker is determined that I'm misspelling "formatting" rather rather than "formate - ing"-- lol). I hope I don't forget to add the tape lights on the wing-tips, which were used along with the fuselage lights -- not provided in the it decals. Also, the kit decals are too "yellow" versus the correct "slime" green: Here she is (still in glass -- will be flat-coated later (or possibly mid-sheened)). And the bottom side. Not sure about the correct wheel well colors. Most late-war F-101C's in camo usually ended up with the overall grey color used on the underside. Since these CF-101B's were returned from the RCAF and refurbished as RF-101B's, I don't know how they ended up. The inside of the doors will be red. Some of the detail parts are shown below: I elected to use the wheel bay doors from the old, scrapped Hasegawa F-101C kit, as they are thinner and well detail. The kit own gear doors are pretty bad, fat and zero detailing. I will use, however, the Matchbox gear legs and wheels, as they are good enough. The wheels (above) have been given a wash of dark grey to pop out a little detail, without being overly dirty. Finally, a rather poor shot of the afterburners, which look much better in reality: Now, off to the landing gear, and more details! Later, Ed
  12. Matchbox RF-101B Voodoo

    Thanks Stevej60, just trying for a decent representative type ... Well, the model has been wending it's way through the paint booth. Shown here after bottom grey and free-hand airbrushed tan colors added: My go to colors for the Vietnam era are now Colourcoats. I like the very tiny pigment; after a slight thinning, they spray very well. Also, the metallic areas on the rear end are masked with Parafilm "M". Next, the medium green has been added, also airbrushed free-hand: Next, the dark green has been added, using home made paint masks: After a little touch-up here and there, she'll be ready for a couple of coats of Future, prior to decals being added. Right now, there are some "hot spots" from the airbrushing (I'm still not good enough to avoid these!), but hopefully, they'll all but disappear with the Future layers, and the final flat topcoat. We'll see. Below starting to look better after two coats of future -- and the touch-ups. Next, it'll be off to decals! Later, Ed
  13. CorsairFFU year of builds ... Added photo’s

    Great job on all these! My favorite is the Glenview -5. Very sharp! Ed
  14. Me Too, Calling 2017 modelling Finito!

    Great job on all these! My favorite is the Bison... Ed
  15. Here are my 2017 model airplane completions, from probably my best year ever! B-45A Tornado, Mach2 kit mods B-45A WIP Trumpeter F-100C, Col. Geo. Laven mods F-100C WIP Maj Geo Laven, RS P-38E, Aleutians P-38E WIP F-100F Wild Weasel, Trumpeter, mods F-100F WIP Ryan FR-4, MPM FR-1 Fireball kit, modded FR-4 WIP Academy A-37B A-37B RFI YA-7F Stretched Sluff", Fujimi A-7D, modded YA-7F WIP SBD-2 Marines At Modway, Hasegawa SBD-3,RFi XAD4-1 Skyhawk Conversion of Airfix Kit, RFI A few of these were started before 2017, but I finally got them done. Ed
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