TheRealMrEd

I'd go with IG overall, with black console tops and IP, certainly for the P-80 A and B, and most of the "C" Models. Some of the later "C" models may have had black above the console tops. Ed

For the FS number, the first digit denotes level of gloss, ie. 3xxxx = flat, 2xxxx = semi-gloss and 1xxxxx = glossy. For example 15042 is glossy, while 35042 is flat, but they are both Dark Navy Blue. Ed

Hi Martin, Got it to a point where I was ready to paint. Ordered some paint from an on-line hobby store. Over two weeks, still hasn't shipped. Opened a dispute via PayPal today, and have ordered the paint from another source. Hopefully, will post up some more pics in a week or so. Been a tough couple of weeks! Even a couple of other projects I'm playing with are fighting me! Later, Ed

Fotki is also very reasonable. Ed

Hi Admiral --- My P2V-3 Neptune article had some talk about needed mods to the Pavla cockpit for the P2V-3 variant :Link Here I can't help you with any info about other variants. Best of luck, Ed

Thanks Roger! Here I am, chipping away... When last we visited, I had posted a photo showing some of the plastic shims used to widen the fuse -- at the top seam only--as the bottom seam was glued up "stock". Here is the result of that effort: Note that a piece of plastic card has been added to blank out the rear cockpit opening of the fuselage, and that another strip has been added to the top of the nose, to sort of emphasize the fairing a little. Not shown here is the plastic card added to the bottom of the fuse nose, to allow the nose to fair into the fuse st the point where the fuse was sawn in half. I found this photo on line, of some needed mods for the F-100F Wild Weasel mods. It was also posted somewhere here on Britmodeler a while back, but when I just went to point to it, I couldn't find it. Is there any "universal" website search for Britmodeler? I have a lot of time going back and finding things I read earlier, but can't remember where, looking forum by forum. Anyone with better search ideas, please help. ALSO, anyone with F-100F either standard, Misty Fac or Wild Weasel builds, feel free to post a link here, so that folks can readily find the info they need to build the aircraft. One of the things I try to do, in my limited way, is to assemble ALL the salient info on a certain craft, so that the next builder can just build, rather than have to hunt for info for months or years like I did. That being said, they would still have to research individual markings, load-out, etc. However, in the above photo, I'm not real certain that they didn't just "make up" the rear APR-26 mount on the tail fairing. Mostly, I've only found two types, the first type (shown below) seems to be the earlier type, and the type flown on Wild Weasel F-100F's: Note that in the right side photo (above) the little circles of the actual antenna are staggered; that is, the left-side circle is higher up than the right-side circle. This is also true of the nose-mounted APR-25 antenna. This style of antenna mount was used because apparently, the original aircraft had a rather thin tail fairing, and the APR-26 mount needed two tapered side panels added to the original fairing, to make the whole thing wide enough to mount the APR-26. The later type antenna mount occurred because the original fairing by that time (mostly on "D" models) was already wide enough, and the just stuck the antenna on the back of what was already there. The later type is shown on this Air Guard F-100D : I began by cutting out two pieces of perhaps 20 thou card to this shape. It matched the front of the existing fairing, is s little shorter in height, and curves at the bottom, as shown: One piece was glued to each side of the existing tail fairing, aligned at the front and top edges. Next, masking tape was added in front of the fairing, to help protect against excess sanding damage: Next is shown the left side sanded to a taper at the front: Then (I forgot to take pictures), I added a small square of card the the rear of the three sanded fairing part, The edge of the card were sanded to a taper toward the rear. Then, a final piece (sort of an elongated pyramid) was added for the antenna itself. When I get around to sanding the hand-brushed Mr Surfacer 500, it will look better. Next, comes the nose-mounted APR-25 antenna. It looks like this: I started by laminating three small strips of card together. I used three vs. one solid piece, to provide a better center line, to help keep the shaping even on both sides. It looks more or less like this. (Just realized it's mounted too far back. Should be right at the edge of the intake). Again, please disregard Mr Surfacer 500 globs. It all looks better than this in real life! Next, taking an advance look at the fit of the Rob Taurus canopy, I found that either I cut/sanded the front windscreen part a little to much, or the part -- intended to fit the Italieri/Esci/whatever F-100F, didn't fit the Trumpeter model exactly. How unkind of Rob Taurus not to see into the future and realize that I would need to use their canopy this way. Such inconsideration! Anyway, I added a couple of plastic strips where shown at "A", which also helps keep the vacuform canopy aligned on the fuse. The area marked "B" shown where to fill the two vents, not needed on the Wild Weasel variant: Note that the strips are back from the outer edge of the fuse. Either the canopy will fit to the outside of the strips, or atop these strips, where filler will be added to blend them in,. We'll see. And as to your inquiry Martin, I assume you mean the space marked "A" on the next photo: I will just fill this in with plastic card and sand. My biggest disappointment is actually at the rear, marked "B", where the correct amount of space is no longer available! There was just no place to shorten the kit cockpit, and still fit all the parts (seats, I.P., etc.), so these two areas are where I shall have to fake it. There are no aftermarket parts in this scale, and I was too lazy to scratch build and seats, etc. particularly given the fact that NO ONE apparently has photos of the back seat area of the WW F-100F's. So, I went with the kit stuff all the way. My quandary now is to decide whether to model the canopy opened or closed. It would be simpler in most respects to close it, but I could hide the rear discrepancy by modeling it open. On the other hand, I had fits with the P2V-2 Neptune and the F-100C with getting the vac formed canopies to stay in lace despite using CA, etc., and I'll confess, I'm a little gun-shy! This is my current hold-up. While I'm making this decision, and until next time, comments and opinions are welcome, as well as hints, tips and donations...? Later, Ed

Hi all, Been very busy, not much time for modeling last couple of weeks, but here is a brief update. After gluing the the fuse halves together, and when trying on the Esci intake copy for fit, I found that the angle was a little of on the intake trunk, which in turn, forced the intake itself to sit higher than desired. To solve this, I installed a small wedge of plastic scrap between the upper fuse and the intake trunk, to force the trunk downward a bit: When dry, I trimmed off the excess part of the plastic wedge. Next a view showing the intake in place (some filling required), as well as the doppler cooling intake, at "B". Next, I began shimming the upper fuse seam to fit the width of the Esci/Rob Tauras canopy, as I did for my earlier-built "C" model. I have actually made a little more progress than this, but haven't had time to process the photos.Have also been researching the "Wild Weasel" F-100F variant, and was surprised to find that only seven aircraft were purpose-built for this mission. No wonder photos and cockpit details are scarce! More coming soon. Thanks for looking, ED

Gaz, You could use "Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty". It's a powder that you add very small amounts of water to, then mix. Pour into your mold (has to be liquid tight) and let dry. Will have about same consistently as hardened plaster when done, so not as tough as resin. You may also have to glue it on with canopy glue or the like. Play around with the water/mix ratio and see what happens. Good news is, it won't stick to plastic, so no mold release needed. The Durham's is carried by the big box lumber stores in the US, can't say where you might find it in UK. Good luck, Ed

Hello all, just my $.02 worth: First off, I use CR900 resin from Micro Mark both because of it's longer pot and working life, but also because it is super thin AND extra hard. (I cast a lot of thin pieces, and many other resins won't stand up.) If you are casting larger thicker pieces, then the strength part is not as critical, but then the resin will also catalyze more quickly. Second, plus one to JeffreyK, about using pressure, instead. Third, I use a hybrid design set-up, wherein I can first pull a vacuum and then switch to the pressure quickly: This process is described in an article I wrote earlier in this forum. Linky Fourth, when used vacuum, the molding "gate" (or hole you pour into, or casting "stub") has to be large enough to contain the "overflow", otherwise the bubbly resin will just overflow the mold rather than being returned to the mold when the bubbles collapse. You might contact Micro Mark and see what info they'll give you about their CR-900 (or at least elicit some specs if shipping is too expensive). Warning -- the CR-900 itself is expensive! My feeling is that "if I just gotta have it" and no one else make a resin part for me, then I'll just have to make one myself. At that point it's a matter of desire vs. expense. My other feeling is "budget restraint first and foremost -- unless it revolves around modeling"! Good luck, Ed

God bless you, James! I wish I'd had these pics when I was building the beast! I have already poached them for my research/modeling archive! Also, thank you for the fact that your link led to an explanation of how/why the Neptune was sunk. Now, I can stop hating the Florida Air Museum, et al. Pity it couldn't have lasted a few more years; I bet a modern day Go Fund Me drive could have saved. Oh well. Again, my heartfelt thanks, Ed

Hello all, As promised, here are the rather poor remaining photos of the last P2V-3 Neptune. Some are ones that I previously posted in the build article. Anyone is free to use these photos in any manner whatsoever, and to re-post them elsewhere for reference, etc. Moderator, feel free to move them if desired! Sorry that they are so bad, but as I said in the beginning, I had always intended to return and do a better job. That day never came. They aren't great photos, but there won't ever be any more, unless someone uncovers a stash... If you can't grab these photos, may I suggest SnapaShot Pro. Enjoy, Ed

Nice build, especially the aged paint effect! Ed

Hi Lokidog and everyone else, Was interested to hear that you are trying a -3. I tried to oast the 19 photos (rather poor ones!) of the (then) last surviving P2V-3 in the walkaround section here, but the moderator never posted them. I queried him, and he said he'd check his email, but I never heard back. Therefore, within the next few days, I will post all my personally-taken P2V-3 photos here, as they show some details not readily available elsewhere, despite their amateurish appearance. I would really love to see a nice -3, and really hope someone will show mine up. I won't be the least bit hurt, as long as I helped them make theirs better. Ed

Hello, John Your "E" turned out beautifully. Was glad to see that some parts found their way to an excellent home. Keep crankin' 'em out, I like watching as I may build another myself, one day. Best wishes, Ed Ellickson

Thanks, Martin. Now to continue with a brief update... There are several things that needed to be added to the F-100F to make it a Wild Weasel variant, shown in the next photo. This photo is available on-line, but in a smaller, hard-to-read size. I can't remember where I found this larger one, so I will post it rather than a link. I will also take it down, if anyone objects. I would suggest that to those who want it, grab it now! The first thing that I'll add before closing the fuse is the cooling intake for the Doppler Nav, located on the rear fin. I began by using a tiny flat file to file small openings at the correct location, on both vertical stabilizer (fin) halves: In the above pic, "A" represents the filed openings, and "B" represents the small pieces of 5 thou card that will be used to make the outsides of the intake. In the next pic, "A" shows one of these pieces glued into place, while "B" shows a part positioned near it's final resting place: Then, the next pic shows it's result as the fins are glued together: I'll try to remember to post a side shot of this area later on, as I forgot to shoot a pic before this update. That's all for now, more next time. Ed