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TheRealMrEd

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  1. Yup Andwil, tried masking and painting that little bit 3 times and then just gave up. Ran out of time as this trip was coming up, so I may touch it up after I get back. Good eye! Ed
  2. For those of you who may not know what a "squadron hack" is, it's usually a certain aircraft used by various personnel to make short trips to other locations, for various reasons, such as one squadron/wing/base commander visiting another for whatever reason. In case of it being an actual unit commander, then squadron, etc. pride comes into play, where the visiting commander wants to show off the maintenance and discipline characteristics of his/her command. Sometimes they are really polished to the hilt. (For some reason, Col George Laven, Jr comes to mind...) Anyway, when highly polished, they are meant to show unit pride. After finding that I had no T-33 in my collection, I decided, why not go the extra distance... For those interested, pictures of the actual aircraft, the build thread (and art work) are HERE Other than saying that this Platz kit is the best-fitting model that I've ever built, I'll let the pictures do the talking: Thanks for looking, Ed
  3. Hello again. Considering that this model is probably the best-fitting model I've ever built, you'd think that the build would be "duck soup". But, I forgot to filter in the "Ed" factor! It all began where I left off earlier, by coating the model with Krylon Black Enamel, decanted from a spray can, then the Alclad II Polished Aluminum, and then a coat of Alclad II Aqua Glass clear. Next, most of the decals, and then another coat of Aqua Gloss to protect them -- which thankfully -- does not obscure the metal shine. No pictures of this mundane stuff were taken. Next we start to add the landing gear, which in this kit, are little jewels, including the airbrake (only one shown): And here is where the "Ed Factor" rear's it's ugly head! While looking at the photo to double-check (kit instructions sometimes get it wrong) the orientation of the main gear, I noticed two things that had, for some inexplicable reason, escaped me -- that the inside side of the wing-tip fuel tanks were black (duh!), and most unexpectedly, most of the undersides of this particular aircraft were white! Why, I have no idea. Also, as seen later in the tail decals, I had no idea that Washington, DC had it's own Air Defense Command HQ. Silly me... Anyway, I had a dilemma. Everything was painted, the decals on, and now I find that all the paint work was still not done. Nothing to do but re-mask and paint the needed parts. For those out their who think that decals cannot me masked over, let me show you how it's done. First, the tip tanks are masked in half with a .04mm strip of masking tape, thanks to the device shown earlier. Then, a 2mm strip of tape was affixed, overlaying the edge of the first strip. Then Parafilm "M" was used to mask everything else, as seen below. Also, the main gear were removed, using more liquid cement, to soften the previously-installed glue: Notice the Parafilm "M" covers the wing decals, top and bottom, as well as the tiny decals on the wing-tip tanks. I will lose the ones on the lower wing, as they will be painted over, as will a portion of the red turbine warning line on the bottom of the fuse. When dry, the tip-tanks are masked, and the fuselage taped and masked for painted the needed white areas on the underside of the aircraft: Above right, masking removed, landing gear added. I actually did also lose the roundels on the aft fuselage sides, as I had apparently forgotten to Aqua Gloss them after installation. (I usually apply decals in several sessions, one area at a time). Despite having seen many pictures of shiny squadron hack aircraft in the past, when it came time time to build this model, the only one I could find is the one enshrined at the NASM in Washingto, DC. I had to make two custom sets of decals: These are two separate decals, both will print at 1/72 scale. The one on the left needs to print on clear decal sheet, and the one on the right prints on white decal sheet, which then needs to be carefully trimmed to leave a tiny white outline, as seen on the real aircraft. I thought I had some ANG shields in stock, but none were of the correct type, so I had to do a little work in Photoshop to get the correct image. As always, these images are free to use for any non-commercial project. Here, we're getting closer. The decal end missing on the left wing walk was a bad decal, not removed by the masking process. A tiny replacement will be added later: The rest of the decals were all from the spares box. Next, some comparison pics: Couldn't figure out what the object was that is pointed to by the arrow (above), so I didn't model it. Perhaps a sort of luggage carrier? Anyway, she's finally done, and I will post up a couple more photos in RFI HERE I'm leaving tomorrow for a few days, so I'll respond to any comments or questions when I return. Thanks for looking in, Ed
  4. Hi Bob, welcome aboard. Nice T-33! My Dad was stationed in Formosa, as it was called then 1952-53. He was with the U.S.MAAG . My family still has some pretty slide pictures of your beautiful country! Ed
  5. Hello again. Next up, time to glue the wings. This is about the only time I use tube glue anymore, for holding flat wing halves with no locating pins together. I run a medium-sized bead of glue all around the periphery of the flat sections, about 3-6 mm from the outer edge. Then, I take a forefinger and smear the glue right up close to the edge, taking care that it is very thin right at the edge. Then, taking care not to use the finger with the glue on it, I line up the pieces and clamp together for a while. Later, if necessary, I'll add bits of thin liquid glue here and there. The whole purpose for this exercise to avoid squeezing out excess glue/plastic, which mars the wings, and also, to avoid any chance of runs or drips with the liquid glue that would also mar the wings. For me, it has been a successful technique: Above right, I'm now ready to assemble the front and rear sections of the model. Note all the internal detail on the inside, that on my model, will never be seen again. This suggests (along with the odd two-holed round bulkhead pointed to earlier) that Platz originally intended to offer a scale engine for the aircraft, and perhaps even intake trunking. Imagine that! Pity they haven't yet, but I suppose one could do a diorama of the T-33 split apart, using one of the aftermarket early British, American or Russian engines, since they all had the same blueprints. This was, of course, a "gift" from the British to their Allied friends during the war, for better or worse... As far as I know, such a diorama would be the first in this scale, showing an engine change on a T-33! Below, the halves are joined together: Here I have to pay due homage. This is the first (and only) kit that I can ever remember, that fit perfectly, AND NEEDED NOT ONE DROP OF FILLER! WOW!!! Next, the horizontal stabilizers have been added, and the areas where the canopy will sit have been painted flat black. I prefer the MM Interior Black for these areas, as it is not as dead black as the regular flat black: Above right, the canopy is installed with liquid glue and masked for future priming with decanted Krylon de-canted Gloss Black spray can enamel. One tool I use constantly for masking work is the Infini tool shown below. It has tiny grooves, varying from .04mm to 1mm in width, so it is simple to use a sharp #11 XActo blade to cut just the width of tape needed, by just letting the knife blade follow along in the groove. It is a little pricey, but I find it beyond value: Now, if I can manage to paint this great little model as well as it deserves, I'll be a very happy camper! We'll see... Ed
  6. Yeah, Bill, I sometimes use something similar, maybe even white glue topped with a transparent color. I was just curious to see how this would work for these tiny lights I try and learn something new with each model -- or at least, most of the time! Ed
  7. Well, the next thing is the spin recovery chute. One of the linked model builders made his 'chute out of putty and some added straps. Being the lazy sort that I am, I went to the scrap pile and retrieved a 1/72 scale US infantryman's back pack, that I had sawed of a war-game figure eons ago. I rounded out the back with a rasp to improve the fit a bit, glued a cut length of acupuncture needle into the bag, stuck the other end through the eye already added to the fuselage, and into the cable housing, also previously added under the fuselage: Above right, the gear and doors have been added, and the bottom side is more or less done. The last thing I want to experiment with on this model, a different way of making the two tiny light lenses on the tip of the tail end. I used a candle to stretch a couple lengths of white and amber Lite Brite pegs, from long ago. Here I should point out that there is a difference in the plastic characteristics between the new style (top) and the old style (bottom). The older ones can be recognized by the longer "peg" part on the older pieces. If you can find the old ones, they work much better, whether for my purpose here, or when sanding down for inset wing-tip lights: Let me state here that I have no idea what color these tail lights really are, but I felt that white (clear strand) on the top, and amber (on the bottom would be a fair bet. Above right, I used some of the Loctite gel mentioned earlier to glue the ends of the strands onto the tail light fixture created earlier. When these had set, I trimmed them off closely with a sprue nipper: Forgive the poor picture. I tried 10 times to get a clearer shot, but no luck! Anyway, it's barely visible to the naked eye, but all in all, I'd say the technique itself was a success. That said, probably a couple of tiny drops of paint might have done better here... Anyway, that finishes her up for my purposes. I will just post a few pics here, rather than RFI, because she's not a contest winner, but still, a nice add to the collection, particularly when an old, not-very-exciting kit that had languished partially completed in the box for decades was finally resurrected! In addition, she was like a paint mule to play with toning down the bright colors, and using weathering powders, which I have used sparingly before. The next time I do one in florescent colors, I may try washes. We'll see. Meanwhile, here are a few pics: Oops. forgot to shrink the pic. Sorry! While she'll never be a silk purse, at least she's no longer just a sow's rear! Thanks for looking in, Ed
  8. Hi folks! Whilst browsing through my now fairly extensive P-80, etc. and F-94 derivatives collection, it suddenly dawned on me that I did not have a single T-33 trainer in the whole works. I had built a few, many years ago, from Heller, Hasegawa, and I think maybe even Airfix, but these had all been sold off anon. What to do? Just so happens that I had a newer Platz T-33 in the stash, so I figured, what the heck, a quicky build, keep the mojo up, etc. After all, how hard could it be to build a T-33 model? Little did I realize how prophetic those thoughts were to be..... But I digress. Let's start at the beginning, with the makin's as they say. First up, the kit, as well as a couple of resin F-94 seats from the stash, as lack of seat detail is one of the very few knocks on the kit: Here are the front end parts, the fuselage halves, the IP's, the cockpit, etc. Here they are all shown having been painted FS 36231 Dark Gull Grey, as was the custom sometime beginning around 1953: Above right, the rear end parts, a tailpipe and two fuselage halves. The front wheel well and 3 grams of lead are glued to the fuselage halves before assembly: Above left, the cut-in-half fishing sinker is shown, along with my new favorite glue for dissimilar materials, Loctite Super Glue. Much like my former favorite, Loctite Go2. It's thick enough to hold tiny parts like gear doors and pitot tubes until they quickly dry, and has a great little pin-point tip for precise application, and well as q quarter-turn lid, which seals so well that despite using around half of my first ever bottle, it has yet to clog! I usually scuff the inside of the fuselage to give the glue more grip, and I always use this or Formula 560 canopy glue for these tasks. In the past, I have depended up other glues, such as thin CA, etc., which has sometimes led to disaster later. Epoxies would work, but take longer to dry. This model is unique in that ALL the join lines, etc. have been engineered to fit virtually perfectly together, not the least of which are the intake inlets shown below, which actually snap into place, necessitating only the tiniest amount of liquid glue to hold them into place. However, before adding the inlets, one must glue the little boundary layer fences (teeth side in) into the squarish cutouts provided in the intakes: Above center, a very interesting item to be added after the front fuselage halves are joined is the round bulkhead pointed to by the arrow. While it acts to support the lower fuselage/wing area, it is interesting that there are two shaped holes in the bulkhead. More on that later. Above right, the assembled front fuselage half. I just used the kit-supplied decals for the side consoles and IP's as they provide enough details in this scale for my purposes. Scale detailing fans could easily do much more, if it matters to them. However, again please note the extremely good fit of the components, and note THE TOTAL LACK of any filler whatsoever! Well, that's it for this time. Back after I finish the T-33 Twin Tail I've been working on in the other posts... Ed
  9. Well, a small update, but after a LOT of work! After studying the few pictures of the real thing, as well as the pictures in the two builds linked to above, I added a small box (A) to the underside, as well as a long tube (B) to house the spin recovery parachute activation system: Above right, I also added a small wire loop behind the tube (to route the 'chute release cable through). I also filled a couple of tiny holes, where I was going to mount a tiny U-shaped loop, but that didn't work out (white dots). Next I drilled some random holes in the thinned out part of the tail underside. On the left side shown here, I used a #80 drill. On the right side, I used just the tip of a new #11 XActo blade, which looks more scale-like to me. If you ever build one of these in this scale, I would just recommend that you start there! After everything was given a coat of Alclad II Grey primer, the aircraft was shot overall with a coat of Alclad II Duralumin. No particular reason; I just wanted to see how it looked. Next the black, huge rear anti-glare panel (?) was painted flat black. When that had dried, everything but the wing tanks and ailerons were protected with Parafilm "M", then the wing tanks and ailerons were painted with a white primer, as an underlayment for the fluorescent red to follow later: Above right, when all the painting was done, she looked showroom bright! However, that is not what I needed. The few black and white photos of this bird seem to show a bit of wear and I think, a lot of sun-fading. Also, there is some difference of thought over the colors of the wing tip tanks and the ailerons. One modeler in the other linked builds chose to paint only the tip tanks florescent, while the other chose to paint both the ailerons and the tip tanks white, probably due to this photo: I have no way of knowing what colors they should be, but I could think of no reason to paint them both white. The ailerons, maybe, given the naval use intent. However, the grey scheme with white control surfaces was still a few years down the road. Looking at the picture above, I'm fairly certain that both the ailerons and tanks are the same color, whatever they were. So the only thing I have ever seen that would account for both of these things to be a light color, was a badly-faded florescent red or orange, or perhaps international orange, Since I only had florescent red on hand, that's what I went with. Still, I had to try and age both the airplane as well as the painted surfaces. (Here, I was trying to imagine an old ugly-duckling airplane that nobody wanted, just setting around in the desert sun, baking it's life away. Not too far off the mark, because it eventually, someone took off the twin-tail, restored it to a standard T-33, where it is now said to be a Gate Guard, but I forget where. NO glory in being the guinea pig for a failed project, I suppose...) Anyway, I gave the entire model a coat of flat clear, and when that dried, I began the weathering process with some Doc O'Briens Weathering Powders, on the theory that I could always wash it off with soap and water, if I didn't like the effect. Since I've never seen anyone try to fade these bright colors, I had no guidance but instinct, so here goes. First, I brushed some white powder over various areas: Above left, the tip tanks have been given a dusting of white, but not the ailerons. Above center, both the ailerons and the tip tanks have been dusted with a little yellow powder as well, to sway the color toward a bit more orange-ish color. Above right, a little white powder had been added to the rest of the aircraft, here and there, and she seems to be coming along... Decals have been added, all from the spares box. Moire later, Ed
  10. I'll take some post if you'll take some of MY excess kits.... Ed
  11. Actually had not thought of asking Tommy about this one, as I'm not sure that it ever made it to the Navy at all... Ed
  12. Mike, I don't know what "reputation" means, but my posts were right around 2500 before, and should be around 2600 now. Ed
  13. True Pete. Had it been around a few years earlier, they might have even tried to make a bi-plane with it! Ed
  14. In 1/72, many of the F-101 series a/c have the 450-gal tank,with a straight taper on the rear end, which seemed most often used on F-101, But there is an identical 450 gal tank, except that the the rear taper is an ogive curve (think olive)... I had to make a couple of these for my Geo Laven F-100D build. Ed
  15. You're right on that Bill, but I was thinking I should have used the PPP type to fill the tiny joint seams -- definitely I use the Bondo for more structural type stuff. Ed
  16. Don't think so. I had maybe 3 post total in buy/sell and zero posts in chats... Ed
  17. FWIF, just noted that as my number of posts status (the little yellow circle) was upgraded just now, my "community reputation" just dropped from 4K to 1K, and my total number of post dropped to 1K vs. at least the 2500+ formerly shown BSM (before Site MOD). Is this the new "fuzzy" math? Ed
  18. Back yet again... Next up, a bit of very thin plastic card is glued to the back of the new "boat-tail"?: Trying to get close to the real thing: Which reminds me, I never posted a picture of the real thing! (Above right). But it still isn't quite right. The real thing appears to be flat along the whole rear end of the fuselage (I think!), while mine still has a couple of bumps: Above right, the little "cut-out" also is not yet correct. After some more work, it's getting a bit closer: When I got everything reasonably well-shaped, I attached the wing: Above right, the ancient Heller kit still fits very well, with only a very slight gap at the front of the wing at the bottom. Now, I can add the vertical stabilizers/rudders to the horizontal stabilizer/elevator part. Before assembly, a pencil line is made, marking the horizontal line where the verticals stabs need to be mounted, and a vertical line is shown to denote the hinge line, which of course, is where the rudder would need to swing. The biggest thing here is to make sure that the horizontal line drawn is perpendicular to the rudder hinge line, and that, when mounted to the horizontal stab, the rudder hinge line is perpendicular to the aircraft's fuselage: When all is done, she now looks like so (above right). I just used a good amount of Weld-On #3 liquid glue, no pins to attach these, as they are relatively thin. Still some more fiddly bits, and she's almost ready for the paint shop. Don't touch that dial! Ed
  19. Just a poor ol' plastic slasher tryin' to muddle through... Ed
  20. Beautiful job on this bird! I'm going to give a shot at the old Airfix kit one of these days. I can only hope that mine turns out half as well as this one! Ed
  21. Good job Bill! Glad the servo tape is working out great for you also. Sure wish I could remember the guy that posted the video that I learned it from! Ed
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