Welcome to Britmodeller.com

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to contribute to this site by submitting your own content or replying to existing content. You'll be able to customize your profile, receive reputation points as a reward for submitting content, while also communicating with other members via your own private inbox, plus much more! This message will be removed once you have signed in.

This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

  • Announcements

    • Mike

      Switched Identities   18/06/17

      If you are still having problems logging in and remaining under your own username following the DDoS attack last week, you need to log off, clear your browser's cache, and restart your browser to ensure you clear all the old files from your temporary area.  Then you should be sorted.

Tail-Dragon

Members
  • Content count

    201
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Tail-Dragon last won the day on February 25 2014

Tail-Dragon had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

639 Excellent

1 Follower

About Tail-Dragon

  • Rank
    Established Member
  • Birthday 23/10/54

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
  • Interests
    W.W.2 Aviation, Armour, Naval and Helo's

Recent Profile Visitors

375 profile views
  1. Hm ... Very interesting! I'm working on a 1/35 CyberHobby Porsche Maus V2, and thought I'd just do a size comparison with a Churchill Mk VII in the same scale. My goodness, that think is huge!
  2. I use a mix of 1/3 isopropyl alcohol (99%), 1/3 household cleaning ammonia, and 1/3 windshield washer fluid. Its powerful enough to dissolve dried paint buildup inside airbrushes, or if sprayed through and airbrush, washed acrylic paint off like it was watercolors.
  3. That is beautiful! Please, please give us more photo's and details.
  4. There are no photos of McKnights lower nose that I know of. The references I had seemed to indicate a possibly higher demarcation line, while the photo is of McKnight and Bader in front of Bader's machine (note the black spinner) There doesn't seem to be a hard and fast rule as to the demarcation line at that time, some on the panel line, some above, and some WAY above! Even the kit and decal manufacturers are split ...
  5. Thanks, everybody. I've been on kind of a Hurricane kick, lately ... I haven't tried the new Airfix kit, yet, but I'm looking forward to it! Colin
  6. I've just completed Italeri's Hurricane Mk I. Loads of improvements, alterations and scratchbuilding, but it's done. Paint is Tamiya's acrylics (custom mix for the dark earth), Mix of kit and IPMS Canada "Canadian Aces" decals, and weathered with oils and pastels. Hope you enjoy ... Colin
  7. I matched Tamiya acrylics to the paint chips in "British Aviation Colours of WW2" and came up with the following mix for Dark Earth. Tamiya XF-49 - 4 parts, XF-52 - 1 part, with XF-81 for the Dark Green A is Tamiya XF-52 Flat Earth B is Gunzie H72 Dark Earth C is Tamiya custom mix that appeared in Hyperscale, of 1:XF-72, 1:XF-49, 1:XF-55 D is my mix of Tamiya 4:XF-49 Khaki and 1:XF-52 Flat Earth (lower, darker version is under a coat of Future) To my mind, it has a good balance with the Dark Green, and definitely doesn't have that red hue that Tamiya's Dark Earth has. Colin
  8. Here's a Techmod set for the Battle of Britain on sale at Hannants - https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/TM48009 I have used them on my CA DO-17z and been very happy with the quality of the decals
  9. This is a Tamiya 1/35 Churchill Mk VII backdated to an early WW2 era tank. The changes were removing the high bustle (post war) commanders hatch, and scratchbuilding a low bustle hatch. Removing the armour plate on the intake covers and adding the lifting lugs, removing the front and center section fenders, replacing all handles and tiedown loops with brass wire and strip, making periscope covers from brass strip, tow cable from fine solder and paint with Tamiya acrylics and wethering with oils and pastels. Hope you like, Colin
  10. Thanks, everybody. I had no idea this was such an issue. Sounds like sky lowers with a duck egg blue spinner and band is the way. Would anyone have any insight into the radiator inlet and outlet area colors? Thanks, Colin
  11. I'm working on Willie McKnight's aircraft from 242 Squadron, and I'm hoping someone here can help clarify a few points. I'm looking at doing the Nov-Dec 1940 period and planning (?) on a "Duck egg blue" lower surface, with "Sky" spinner and tail band, and a black port wing. Is the "Duck egg blue" lower surface correct or should it also be "Sky', and would the lower colors (black and blue/sky?) be painted inside the radiator intake and the radiator exhaust area's, or would they be solid blue, or aluminum? Thanks in advance, Colin
  12. The original issue Airfix Mosquito builds up very nicely (with a bit of work), every bit as impressive as the Tamiya kit (IMHO) - For the entry door, Ultracast do a resin replacement that is very nice. http://www.ultracast.ca/products/48/035/default.htm
  13. Nice to see this - but what about a 1/48 Spitfire Mk XIVe ? Come on Airfix, your almost there with your Mk XIX ! Colin
  14. Question for the Hurricane experten out there - would Karl Kuttelwascher's Hurricane II JX*E (the grey/green over black scheme) have the yellow outboard leading edge I.D. marking, and would the wheelwells, inside surface of the doors, struts, and wheel hubs remain aluminum (silver) or be painted black? I'm about to start Hasegawa's Mk II, I have Eaglestrike's set 48126, which seems to indicate NO leading edge yellow, but does not address the gear color ... Any help would be appreciated, Thanks, Colin
  15. I had the same oil cooler issues with mine, it was the only area where I had to use any putty and do any sanding (now that I reread this - are we getting Spoiled!?) It took a lot of careful trimming and trial fits to get it seated, but once done, it left a nice panel line that required no fill. Are you going to reduce the chord on the slats? Its a simple enough fix and makes a noticeable difference later. Colin