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Scott Hemsley

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  • Gender
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  • Location
    SW Ontario, Canada
  • Interests
    1/72 WW2 and post-war RCAF

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  1. PM sent explaining the codes should be the standard RAF dull red & the original issue of that decal sheet was incorrect. I know that, at least in 1/72, Zotz revised the sheet with corrections to not only "Sugar's Blues" (they omitted the stbd nose art all-together), but to "Picadilly Princess" as well. I was one half of the pair that alerted Zotz to the sheet's errors - at least when it came to the two featured RCAF aircraft. Scott
  2. It may sound cynical and I'm far from an expert of WZ*T, but scrutinizing the photo, I'd place my vote for it being overpainted on the aircraft. IMO, it's far too neat for a wartime censor. Usually in all the censored photos I've come across, anything they wanted to censor was basically scratched out on the negative. This definitely looks painted directly on the airframe. Maybe others more familiar with this particular airframe, at this particular time .... will chime in soon. Scott
  3. AK make a post-war Luft. colour ... Silver-Grey (RAL 7001) with the ID number RC210 (AK Real Colours), that may be what you're looking for. While the last 3 photos in the original posting, appear more silver, the first two (a/c 240 and 757) appear much closer to the AK paint when sprayed. Scott
  4. Back when Modeldecal enjoyed a percentage of the hobby market, the staff at my LHS mentioned that they had staunch 48th modellers come in & buy the Modeldecal sheets (they were exclusively 72nd) just for the references. Like Moggy said, "Modeldecals have the most complete instructions I have ever seen" and IMO, that still holds in today's market. Scott
  5. I've got remnants of several of their generic RAF roundel and code letter/number sheets (purchased back in the 70's and 80's) still in my decal stash and have had no issues with them after all these years. I must admit, thought ... contrary to Black Knight's mention of decal setting solution, I've never found one that works on them ... but what I did find is just plain 'warm' H2O - the stuff you just used to separate them off the backing sheet. Once in position, just add a drop or two onto the decal, let it sit for a moment & then press down with a soft tissue. The process may have to be repeated a couple of times, but so far, I've not encountered any surface detail, raised or scribed, that the decals didn't conform to. Scott
  6. Intakes were black, including the splitter plate while the l/e of the splitter plate was silver. Even though the photo is in shadow (the last photo in Ron's [f111guru] last posting, above), you can make out the colouring of the intakes. The angle of that photo also clearly shows how far down the intake the black went. Scott
  7. I've never seen it re-issued nor heard the rumour that it would be., but I always could use another one if it did re-appear at a price that didn't require a mortgage. Scott
  8. I can only echo Scooby's words, so if you do decide to sell them as a set, I'll certainly take a pair. Scott
  9. A beautiful recovery, Alistair! I have one in the stash and I can only hope my finished results turn out half as good as yours did. Scott
  10. Going by the photos in Slogin57's reply, it looks as if the intakes on the Javelin F(AW) Mk.9R are indeed larger than the early Javelin Mk.1 delivery photo. It may be just me, but if you set aside the actual dimensions of the nacelles, etc., the illusion(?) of a larger intake may be caused by the reduced thickness of the intake lips. Those on the F(AW) Mk.9R do appear to be much thinner than intake lips of the early Mk.1 Scott
  11. All in 1/72 .... an accurate Britannia 'accurate' being the key word here. The Mach 2 kit has some dimensional issues (I've seen data showing the span is too short which may through off cowling placement & wheelbase dimensions. an accurate CL-44/CC-106 Yukon (not the AIM resin conversion & the Mach 2 Britannia) an accurate CP-107 Canadair Argus. (same comment as for the Yukon) an accurate 1/72 DHC-Otter covering wheels/skies/floats & the amphibious floats (the Hobbycraft kit is total mash-up - being a mix of 1/72 & 1/76 dimensions) DHC-3 Caribou (the Hobbycraft kit can build into a nice kit, but it needs a fair bit of TLC ... assuming you can even find one) DHC-5 Buffalo CF-100 Mk.3/4/5 ... with options for the -5C & -5D (Hobbycraft? ... Really? There's the much superior Astra Models vac, but like Hobbycraft, it's long-time OOP) CT-114 Canadair Tutor (same comment as for the CF-100) a buildable & accurate Dassault Falcon 20 (ever tried the Mach 2 kit?) Canadair Sabre Mk.2 - a dedicated kit ... one not requiring 2 separate conversion packages mated to a base kit & a lot of additional TLC. Canadair North Star/Argonaut - a dedicated kit .... not the OOP Revell C-54 with the AIM resin Merlin engine conversions. Scott
  12. Tbolt ... i agree with you. I'm starting to think that by the time I can get my proposed PR.XVI conversion (Hasegawa and CMK) out of storage with the rest of my stash, we may well have a choice of PR's in 72nd. Both Special Hobby and AZ have made such an announcement, some time back. Question now is, will we even see a PR.XVI from either of them? Priorities could change between then and now. Scott
  13. John.... in my experience, never brush out AK colours with the goal to compare them to a colour chip ... airbrush them! You'll find the results quite different and much closer to what is advertised. Unfortunately, I've found that they're only one of the paint mfgrs I've tried over the years that I've been modelling (some 55+) that have a problem with colour matching of their paints ... brushed vs sprayed. Maybe I should try 'lightening' them and matching to the adjacent sprayed portions, prior to any touch-up work up with a brush? Case in point, I've a jar of RAF Ocean Grey (RC288). In the jar, it looks to my eye, more like Dark Sea Grey or 'seaweed green' as I sometimes refer to it. It brushed out like that to the point where I thought I got a mislabelled jar. Upon spraying it onto a paint mule, my opinion of the AK Ocean Grey changed dramatically. At this point in time, it's the best flat RAF Ocean Grey I've come across (your opinion and that of the colour police, may vary). Either way, it just looks right to me To a lesser extent, I've made a similar discovery with their RAF Dark Green (RC286). Some may claim the brushed colour is much closer to the RAFM chip that many here are familiar with, but when brushed ... it is decidedly darker than the sprayed version. I've a RFI that features a Sabre Mk.6 here on BM (A look back - A tail of two Swords - Ready for Inspection - Aircraft - Britmodeller.com). If you look on the extreme front of the port side nose of the Mk.6, you'll see where I had to touch up the Dark Green with a brush after I finished decaling, so spraying wasn't an option. Moral of story? I now withhold judgement of my AK paints until I test them out with the airbrush because what it looks like in the jar (or how it brushes) isn't necessarily how it dries when sprayed. Scott BTW, since we're discussing colour, the Sabre 5 is Model Master's RAF Dark Green and Compucolour (old but still perfectly good) or Model Master's Extra Dark Sea Grey - I forget which with AeroMaster PRU undersides. The Sabre 6 is done up in AK's RAF Dark Green, Compucolour (old but still perfectly good) or Model Master's Extra Dark Sea Grey - I forget which and Model Master PRU Blue.
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