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JasonC

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About JasonC

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bath, UK
  • Interests
    1/48 props, WW2 & onwards.
    Occasionally armour.

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  1. Not to my knowledge. In both 1/72 and 1/48, your best bet may be to buy two sets of the Quickboost 5-stack exhausts, and cut up the second set for the extra stacks. cheers, Jason
  2. I find the IPMS Stockholm 190 guide very useful as well. It may just be my simple mind, but I like the fact that it has pictures. http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2004/11/stuff_eng_fw190_01.htm
  3. Indeed, though Lennie's is sadly no longer an option! Not doing too badly here, but struggling to find time to work on my Mossie. My paint stinks the place out, so I need to wait until other half and mini-me are safely away... Hornet is looking smart under the primer; look forward to the paint scheme going on. J.
  4. The apparent framing (note the different colour) around the front panes of the windscreen are the result of the sealing compound at the edges of the glass. A very thin, dark line might be appropriate I suppose. cheers, Jason
  5. I always think sprue cutters are a risky option with resin. They tend to force material aside, and this runs the risk of the resin cracking and snapping. IMHO a safer option is to use a fine razor saw (e.g. a JLC saw) to gently cut through the attachment point. Since the saw actually removes material there is generally less risk of damage. cheers, Jason
  6. The quality of ingredients has definitely come a long way since the early days of home brew. You can now, relatively easily, make a beer at least as good as one you'd buy in the pub or supermarket. And it can be tailored to your own taste.
  7. Black Knight and EE have given some useful pointers on where to get equipment. Unfortunately it's one of those things that need various bits of kit before you can do much of anything. In term of the economics, you need to look at the longer term costs. After you've done a couple of batches, the basic kit will have paid for itself. Assuming of course that the beer is drinkable! One issue with wanting to just brew "a few pints" is that generally ingredients are packaged to support batch sizes of 35-40 pints or so. Some (e.g. yeast, hops, malt extract) will be difficult to find in quantities suitable for, say, 5-10 pints. If you're still interested, then a decent book will give a better idea of the process. Wheeler offers a good, basic summary. Palmer's 'How to Brew' is also good but offers a lot more detail. The 1st edition is also available (legitimately!) for free online. cheers, Jason
  8. Anyone else make their own? The stout below was made last year - full grain & mashed in a converted drinks cooler. I was going to call it Special Night, but it would have been equally esoteric and slightly more seedy to the uninformed. The IPA was done for a friends' wedding; the groom was a Star Wars fan. This was a part grain brew, with some of the hops coming from our garden. (Ingredients in background unrelated to beer making!)
  9. Eduard

    Is there a dedicated G-2 fuselage sprue? Or is there some sort of filler part to deal with the recesses for the cowl bulges? cheers, Jason
  10. Yes, the trick with using any masking method for chipping is not ending up with large, rounded, unconvincing chips. I don't know how you applied your Maskol, but one method is to use a coarse sponge that can give smaller, irregular application of the fluid. If you're not averse to a bit of brush work then you might try going around the chips with the camouflage colours to reduce the size and break up the outline somewhat. J.
  11. You might be thinking of me, but mine are in 1/48. Link in sig. regards, Jason
  12. Well, one solution is to order an extra set and cut off a single stack to build a six stack unit from the existing fives. If there's no dedicated aftermarket then that's likely your best option. J.
  13. I have the same kit unbuilt, with the same shade of yellow to the canopy! You've done a great job on this one. When it comes time to do mine, I'm sorely tempted by a what-if scheme. regards, Jason
  14. Or press in the spline slots using a scalpel blade. Still fiddly work with a rod that's less than 1.5mm across! J.
  15. Just been and measured a Merlin 22 (36 splines). Error is probably about +/- 0.5mm. Diameter over the splines: 95.2mm I would estimate the splines are about 2-3mm deep. Diameter over the narrower, threaded portion at the front: 75.3mm The latter over the tops of the threads. This particular shaft was not castellated at the front. Best of luck carving 36 splines in 1/72! regards, Jason