1/35 Tamiya Sturmgeschutz IV

[math-x]

I would like to present another model which I finished recently. This is an oldish Tamiya's Sturmgeschutz IV (STUG IV). As many of you know the kit itself is far from being great. It lacks details, rubbery tracks are gently saying "rubbish". Because the kit itself was cheap, I bought it mostly for training purpouses

The model is made out of box. The only thing which was replaced are side skirts (schurzen), because original one from Tamiya are too thick (in real life it had just few milimeter thickness) and these were replaced by custom made from BULMERS can which in my opinon looks way better and more realistic. The rubber tracks should be replaced as well but I am not sur if it makes much sense to byy tracks 2-3 times expensivier than whole tank. As I said I have used it for my training purposes.

The one thing which should be corrected are painted view-finders on commenders coupola. They should have different colour. I found it after I took a pictures

For weathering I have used a 'salt' and 'hair' chipping' techniques. Waterstain as well as ruststain are made by use of oil paints (mostly burn umber and burnt siena). For dust effect I have used an ordinary dry pastels set on matt coat.

Anyway, I have tried to squeeze everything I could out of this kit and here it is. I hope you will like it.

All comments/critique are very welcome.

Before painting: - original schurzen has been replaced

Finished model:

[sinnerboy]

v nice

[gcn]

That's a very nice build. I love all the different effects you have going on there.

[Andy K]

Looking rather good. I think you are getting the hang of this weathering lark. This proves that those old kits from decades ago still have thier uses, even if for something to practise on.

One bit of constructive criticism...don't blacken the end of gun barrels too much as the propellant in the shells was cordite,not gunpowder. The effect is suitable for Napoleonic cannons but not armour.

[Muller]

You made a plastic kit look like a big heavy lump of metal, great build! The skirts look the business.

[ExRAF]

Just when you think you have seen good weathering, something like this comes along and beats it. That's the best weathering effect that I can recall seeing on any model (and the standard on here is pretty high). Well done!

[Basosz]

Colour me impressed. That is very good. How did you get the ends of the plates right above the tracks (8th picture down, don't know the name) to look so bent out of shape? I need to replicate the same effect on a Sd.Kfz.234 I've been working on but I have no idea how to start. Can I steal/borrow/adopt your technique?

[Mikey58]

Stunning!!! One of the best models I've seen,well done!!

Mike

[Natter]

Jeez that's nice. Really good.

[AnonymousDFB1]

Mmm I like that

[Derbyeomanry]

Great build - well done

[Paul A H]

Great work!

[Enzo the Magnificent]

The skirts look the business.

Indeed! That's just superb! How did you do the rust? That would look good on a BR 21T wagon.

[Buzby061]

Top job Math.

Might try the salt technique on my Panther A (if I ever get round to finishing the Zimmerit!)

Pete

[math-x]

Thank you for your kind comments! I was not expecting such entusiastic response, especially when I am a freshman in this area. I really appreciate.

OK. I will try to answer your questions:

Don't blacken the end of gun barrels too much as the propellant in the shells was cordite,not gunpowder. The effect is suitable for Napoleonic cannons but not armour.

Andy, I agree with you entirely. The smoky effect on the barel is exaggerated. Should be a satle.

How did you get the ends of the plates right above the tracks (8th picture down, don't know the name) to look so bent out of shape?

Basosz, do you mean a front fenders? If yes, I was bending them slowly, basically using my fingers, and then edges were filed down gently to get somehow irregular shape.

How did you do the rust? That would look good on a BR 21T wagon.

The coarse rust on the side skirts/Schurzen I did by applying a ground dry pastels gently on the surface coated with matt coat (a bit dilluted but still sticky). or this I used flat hadred brush (sometimes soft round one). I have done it in stepwise manner. First I have applied a brown pastel (or mixture of brown/grey colours). When it dried I coated it again matt coat (thin layer airbushed) and then I applied more rusty colour. It gives some colour variation as well as some layered texture. Cheap and quite effective . Othe only drawback is that mattvarnish and athe thinner could react with pigment/pastel and change its colour , so I would always recommend to to do a "dumm test" on some scrap piece of plastic.

Edited January 18, 2011 by math-x

[Siggi]

That is very very nice!

[Davec_24]

Ooh, very nice indeed! I particularly like how you got that rusty look on the tracks, with pieces that look like they're flaking off. If you don't mind sharing your secret, how did you get that effect?

[math-x]

Ooh, very nice indeed! I particularly like how you got that rusty look on the tracks, with pieces that look like they're flaking off. If you don't mind sharing your secret, how did you get that effect?

There is no secret or anything magic....as you said - the piecies of paint are flaking off....that's it. Because Tamiya's original tracks are made form elastic rubber which surface do not want to cooperate with paint (especially when is too thick - layers of acryl, and some pastels and matt coat ). I kept it as it is from the same reason you noticed ...looks interesting.

Edited January 23, 2011 by math-x

[Badder]

Just found this whilst researching for my Dragon StuG III ausf G in 1/35th.

Fantastic weathering sir. Superb. I shall definitely be using yours as a guide to weathering.

You may not think the old Tamiya a particularly good kit, but I can assure you it's a LOT better than the Dragon one which I bought not realising it was a kit that's been on a model-shop shelf for 21 YEARS!

Rearguards

Badder

Edited September 16, 2016 by Badder
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