Decal silvering

[Filbert]

I am nearly there with my Revell 1/32 Hurricane and need some advice please. What method is most successful for eliminating the silvering effect on the decals when viewed at certain angles to light.

 

I have used Vallejo 70.510 acrylic  gloss varnish prior to affixing the decals, then Tamiya XF86 matt over the whole model. I haven't applied the matt heavily but the silvering is still evident, though a bit reduced.

Is it not possible to eliminate the silvering or is there a better method?

Tia.

[rgb40]

I use Gunze or Tamiya gloss over the paint trying to get a high gloss. I find the higher the gloss the better. Apply decals using either Gunze, Tamiya or Micro scale systems to seat decals. Another coat of gloss over decals and finally a flat coat. I still have Testors dull coat which is my favorite but any flat should do. I hope this helps.

George

[Troy Smith]

17 minutes ago, Filbert said:

Is it not possible to eliminate the silvering or is there a better method?

 

This works.   it may work with the Vallejo gloss.   You'd have to experiment.   Also worth trying warm or hot hot water, as this will soften decals and help them conform better.

 

HTH

[cpoud117]

Could you post a picture of the issue?

[vaoinas]

Decal softening solutions like Mikro Sol soften the decals and eliminate the thin air layer

underneath the decal film, that is the cause of silvering. 
Unfortunately, If you have already had a coat of varnish over the silvering decal

the softening solution wouldn't work anymore.

 

Edited March 20, 2023 by vaoinas

[cpoud117]

Vaoinas is very right about softeners not working if the decals have been coated with varnish.
The only caveat would be that if the silvering is cause by the decal bridging above a panel line instead of contouring to it, you may be able to make small incision following the panel line and add some softener.

It's not easy but it may be an alternative to more radical options.

[FatFlyHalf]

Decals applied to a gloss paint / varnish surface are less likely to silver.

I agree with others, the Microscale products (MicroSol or MicroSet) work well in making the decals adhere and conform.

However, once you have gone over the decals with a varnish I'd suggest it's possibly a complete paint job removal and start again.

 

Hindsight is a wonderful thing.

 

[Mike]

I've moved this to the Decals section of tools and tips, as it's not a WWII aircraft thing, it's a decal thing.

 

As to your issue, it's possible that you didn't get the gloss smooth enough, as silvering is caused by tiny air bubbles trapped in the uneven surface behind the decals.  Gloss varnishes help with this, but they have to be pretty smooth.  You can fix this to a greater or lesser extent by taking a very sharp needle or blade, and making micro-holes in the offending decal, then flooding it with decal solution, taking care not to let it pool, as it can soften paint.  Give it a while to soak into the perforations, and maybe dab it gently with the tip of a cotton bud to try to "pump" it into the tiny voids between the decal and surface.  Do this a couple of times, and you should, and I emphasise should see some improvement

[Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies]

I had a bit of a demon with this for a while. What's important about the surface to receive a decal is that it is smooth, not that it is glossy. I applied gloss clear coats and still had silvering. Now I can fairly consistently apply decals to matt finishes without silvering. I use Infini Model 2500 grit sanding sponges and sometimes 4000 grit (but not always) to ensure there are no high spots before applying a decal.

 

One key thing I was doing wrong was using water which was too warm to wet the decals out, which has the undesired effect of dissolving the decal's glue. I do now like a dab of setting solution on the surface before applying a decal. I don't wet out too many at once and leave them sitting wet (again this disperses the glue). I do apply my decals with tweezers, cocktail stick or a brush as required and will press them down with a tea towel using a rolling action which will displace any liquid underneath progressively rather than trap it under. I'll coat the decal with setting solution again, then usually apply some softening solution.

 

I can however get fairly repeatable results now by adhering to this, even on matt (but smooth) finishes. A gloss finish is IMHO by the by. The surface needs to be flat. Reflective can be a by product of being flat, but a textured gloss coat is no better for avoiding decal silvering than having not bothered with it.

 

 

 

[dromia]

I never gloss or smooth my paint for applying water slide transfers and haven't had any problems over forty odd years.

 

I use ordinary tap water not warmed or heated to apply the transfers, then I use transfer setting solutions  to tighten the transfer into any detail if needed.

 

The thinking on silvering is that it is an adhesive failure, perhaps the glue fills any indentations in the paint if trapped air is the cause of silvering.

 

So good quality transfers are the first step, next don't leave the transfers too long in the water, if they are floating off then they are in for too long and you will be loosing any adhesive also don't use hot water as it can help remove the adhesive.

 

For older transfers or ones that my initial testing shows to be fragile or prone to silvering I have success with applying the transfers to a coat of Tamiya "decal" fix which contains transfer adhesive.

 

If your transfers are already down then 'tis a bit too late to sort as you are only trying to treat a symptom and not the cause.

 

Always test any particular transfers afore applying so that you can get a feel for how they are going to behave and give you a chance to stop the causes of silvering.

 

 

Edited March 20, 2023 by dromia

[Filbert]

5 hours ago, cpoud117 said:

Could you post a picture of the issue?

I will try tomorrow in daylight.

[Casey]

Decals silvering is happening because there is some air trapped underneath the decal. It is literally same effect as why air bubble is visible in water - caused by different refraction index of air than the surrounding media.

 

It is more likely to happen if surface over which decal is places is uneven, which sometimes happens with paints made with rough matt agents. I have matt paints that are perfectly smooth and don't need gloss layer to put the decals on, What I personally do is I just make sure there is some water under decal while I am placing it to replace all potential air. If there is any air bubble, I pull decal up and try again, but then I might need some decal solution to replace missing glue. Only when I am sure, I press the decal in from inside out.

 

Once silvering is there and you fixed it with extra matt layer, it is really hard to do anything since silvering comes from under the decal, not from anything on the top of it.

 

The suggested solution of bedding decal in Klear is interesting one because it adds physical sticky glue layer with similar index of refraction to water that will replace any potential air under the decal - Humbrol decalfix works similar way. You need to do matt layer to equalize the finish later of course. This solution replaces the original decal glue too.

[Deano353]

I have been there with decals silvering myself. You can fix this issue after applying a matt varnish as I have done it myself but you have to be very careful. Get a new scalpel blade a number 11 is usually the best which is the most common one. gently slice along where the silvering has occurred and then if you have a decal softening solution apply it over the area you just cut this will get the decal to settle down into the area where the air was trapped. It doesn't always work but it will certainly help a lot. I used it to fix silvering I had on a 1/48 F-111 I made on here years ago. If you smooth every layer of paint with fine grit sandpaper then when it comes to applying a gloss coat for decals you're going to have an ideal surface to apply decals. It is time consuming but ever since I was given this tip myself I have had no problems with any silvering at all. Plus this also stops the orange peel effect if you want a gloss finish.