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About vaoinas

  • Birthday 01/04/1984

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    1:35 WW2 armor

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  1. Thanks, mates! Here's a little update on track and tool holders. Cheers! Kristjan
  2. As I've had an experience with a few PE sets, it seems to me that they often use a etched line to allow sharp bend but where a more rounded bend is needed they sometimes have these holes. Usually one can fill the inner corner with solder once it's bent and then sand the outer corner nicely round.
  3. Very neat PE work. One thing I would suggest is to fill the perforated folding line either by soldering, or with filler.
  4. Thanks, Filippo I think very highly of Master Club Tracks. They tend to need some cleaning, but not so much as Friulmodel, and also they are more detailed. And I like the weight of metal tracks more, than Modelkasten Plastic ones which also need cleaning and are assembled with pins. The assembly is not as quick of course as with the plastic glueable tracks or, god forbid, the rubber tracks, but the result will be the best you could get.
  5. After finishing the interior I was able to turn to the exterior details. And of course I started with the details most satisfying. First the front mudguards. These are in two pieces on Panther and though I will not use the lower ones I still assembled these for fun. Also the two headlights are there now. I used some Dragon leftovers for these as they are a bit deeper in casing and seem to match more for the ones seen on the real thing. Then the rear storage boxes. The way they were attatched at the bottom on the early Panthers was a bit of mystery to me and the Aber set I use did not have the correct early detailss So I tried to figure it out myself using the plastic parts as a template. The bracket that holds the exhaust pipes was a huge disappointment in the Aber set though. It was way oversized and could hold at least a mil larger diameter exhausts. So I needed to make this whole thing scratch. The whole rear wall assembly: And that's how it looks for at the moment: Cheers! Kristjan
  6. Hey! Nice to see a finnish StuG here. And it's a very nice model indeed. All the finnish features are there and the three-tone camo has turned out spot on. As your track issue, I suggest you have too early 38cm tracks on it. Finnish StuG's were 43/44 production and used wider 40cm tracks. According to Andreaslarka.net PS.531-6 Liisa had 40cm closed horn track without chevrons - these would be MasterClub MTL35012. Wider tracks would probably fit your sprocket just fine. I myself have done a finnish StuG many years ago. I used a Dragon kit as well and also had Echelon decals, but opted for PS531-8 Aili. Kristjan
  7. Turns out there actually was a significant gap between the turret and the hull. Seems, the width of the gap varied somewhat, but here's an example: So instead of trying to lower the rear side of the turret I went to rise the front side. And doing so I simply used a 0.2mm strip of styrene Here's the fix: And that's how it sits after that. I admit it could be a hair lower but at least the gap is consistent now. Cheers! Kristjan
  8. Thank you, chaps All the details you saw in the last update, has been painted now. Here's a few photos of driver's and co-driver's hatch. I used a bare metal foil to cover the axles the hatches turn on. It sits quite nicely in the hull. The gun: Turret shell. I opted for a later ventilator with a hose. It looked better and I really wanted to use that hose. It's a bit later feature for Panthers, but I guess it could have been retrofitted as well. The hose itself is a rubbery thing and the paint doesn't stick on it too well, but when handling carefully it eventually sits in the turret quite well protected. The turret with a gun glued in its place: And after that I glued two halves of the turret together. When fitted to the hull, the gap underneath the turret isn't even - It's almost none at front and about half a mill at back. At first I thought it's the heavier aluminum barrel that's the culprit, but it seems that the basket inside the hull doesn't line up with the floor perfectly and thus pushes the turret a bit forward. But after giving it a thought I think I may have a quite simple fix for this problem that needs to be tried out. Here's the whole thing: Cheers! Kristjan
  9. What a great model with a lot of fine details. The fact that the rocket can be posed in both position adds a great deal to it. And also the weathering is exceptionally well done.
  10. Great job on the hooks, Filippo. I've used brass strips for this kind of things, gotta try your styrene bending trick out some time.
  11. I like it a lot. You've really brought it to a new level with all the details you've added and the paintwork ties it all nicely together.
  12. It's been pretty long, but after finishing my Panzer IV I can finally move on with this one. There's a plate with hatches over the drivers and radio-operators head that was considerably warped in my kit. I tried to straighten it using boiling water but after having no luck, contacted Takom about it. Luckily they were kind enough to send me another sprue and even though it was pretty poorly packed, the detail I needed was straight in it. So finally I could move on with it and the forward hatches with the plate has now been completed. I added a magnet under the plate and also replaced the plastic handles with the brass ones where needed. On the turret shell I tried to add most of the exterior details as I figured It would be easier to do it now while it's not glued on to the turret basket yet. Lifting eyes are replaced with a 0.8mm brass wire and the handle with 0.5mm wire. I also made a new commanders hatch cause the hinge on the original plastic one broke off and there really were no good way to replace it on such a thin detail.. Interior of the turret consists pretty many details. Some of them has been replaced with the ones in the Aber kit. Also much of the stuff is missing here - Details are cleaned and prepared but havent been glued on to allow them to be painted separately. Vision blocks in the commanders cupola needed replaced too as for some reason Takom had these opaque. I used transparent ones from some Dragon kit, that needed some work to make these fit. And that's all the stuff that needs to be painted this time. Cheers! Kristjan
  13. Hi, Nenad. I've painted resin pins after burnishing the tracks. I usually use some brownish-grayish shade for that and. As the paint doesn't stick very well with this resin I run the pinheads over with a fingertip stained with some metallic pigment as a final touch to hide the spots where the paint has worn off I'd really like if Master Club used some darker resin for the pins.
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