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Jasper dog

Meng 1/35 Jagdpanther

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1 hour ago, Jasper dog said:

 

Thanks chaps, I sprayed the figures, after a black base,  then tried highlighting from above with a lightened shade followed by a dark brown wash (mig, for green vehicles but I wont tell them if you don't). The detail in acrylic is a pain, so thanks for the suggestion, next time I'm somewhere that might stock artists supplies I'll see what I can pick up and give it a go.

 

Cheers

Darryl 

Currently I use games workshop citadel colours I've got 4 which I blend into 8 shades in a stepped way ie 1 into 2 the raw 2 2 into 3 and so on. I seems to have worked so far on 35th. I can let you know the shades tomorrow if you want

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Thanks, I thought they closed down, apparently not, quick Google. If they have something like a skin tone that would be great. Tamiya flesh, or whatever it's called isn't great (imho).

 

But yes anything would be helpful, do you pick out the eye etc or leave dark, as in post face wash.

 

Cheers

Darryl 

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I see so many people painting figures with acrylics.  You should be able to do this as well. All our favourite paint brands have plenty of colours for this task. Just take a look. 

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9 hours ago, Jasper dog said:

Thanks, I thought they closed down, apparently not, quick Google. If they have something like a skin tone that would be great. Tamiya flesh, or whatever it's called isn't great (imho).

 

But yes anything would be helpful, do you pick out the eye etc or leave dark, as in post face wash.

 

Cheers

Darryl 

Remember I'M NOT AN ACCOMPLISHED FIGURE PAINTER HAHA. This is just how ive learned from very basic flesh and brown wash to get a little more detail. All the paints are Citadel Range but get whatever you want really these just suit me. Just water them down maybe 50/50

 

I use a couple of overall thin base coats of bugmans glow, none of these are thick coats as it hides the details. Then I paint the white of the eyes but just kind of roughly dont worry about making a mess, then the iris in a brown or blue then a smaller dot inside for pupil, then I tidy the eyes up with the bugmans glow and neaten them up. To get the eyes straight I often do the right eye with the figure the right way up then turn him upside down for the left. randomly helps me. Dont ask how.

 

Ill number the paints from here as follow

 

1. Bugmans glow

2. Cadian Fleshtone

3.Kislev Flesh

4 Flayed one flesh

 

(use any tones you like really)

 

Then I do a careful wash with a reikland flesh shade not too thick but into the cracks etc you can miss this out if you want. Then I treat them as maybe 4-8 different layers starting with largest areas leaving the deepest cracks etc in NO1  then gradually move a little further up in a 1/2 mix then 2 then 2/3 and so on until you end up with just the tiniest points of 4 as highlights. If that makes sense.

 

This vide shows it best TBH

 

 

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14 hours ago, Red Five said:

Remember I'M NOT AN ACCOMPLISHED FIGURE PAINTER HAHA. This is just how ive learned from very basic flesh and brown wash to get a little more detail. All the paints are Citadel Range but get whatever you want really these just suit me. Just water them down maybe 50/50

 

I use a couple of overall thin base coats of bugmans glow, none of these are thick coats as it hides the details. Then I paint the white of the eyes but just kind of roughly dont worry about making a mess, then the iris in a brown or blue then a smaller dot inside for pupil, then I tidy the eyes up with the bugmans glow and neaten them up. To get the eyes straight I often do the right eye with the figure the right way up then turn him upside down for the left. randomly helps me. Dont ask how.

 

Ill number the paints from here as follow

 

1. Bugmans glow

2. Cadian Fleshtone

3.Kislev Flesh

4 Flayed one flesh

 

(use any tones you like really)

 

Then I do a careful wash with a reikland flesh shade not too thick but into the cracks etc you can miss this out if you want. Then I treat them as maybe 4-8 different layers starting with largest areas leaving the deepest cracks etc in NO1  then gradually move a little further up in a 1/2 mix then 2 then 2/3 and so on until you end up with just the tiniest points of 4 as highlights. If that makes sense.

 

This vide shows it best TBH

 

Doing the pupil, I've been struggling to hit the eyeball, even with a pointy stick!

(No wonder the modelling is going downhill :winkgrin:)

That is an excellent suggestion / techniques, not just the eye stuff either, I'm going to have a proper study of this.

 

Thanks.

Darryl

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And remember unless you plan to show a 5mm face on format filling 32" screens, anything you can acomplish looks way better than not doing it at all. For me it is enough when I like me figures or models observed as close as 4", but mostly 1'ä foot distance is really OK for me in most cases. Nonetheless you can learn alot from those YouTube videos and how to improve.

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This is just a personal observation, but for me, I don't bother with going as far as putting a pupil into the eye. In 1/35th scale, it's just too small. After painting the whites of the eye, all I add is a dot for the iris. As can be seen in this photo, it doesn't notice that there is no pupil.

a0da4aca-3ef0-41b1-8d57-4c11a0ac5476.JPG

 

John.

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20 hours ago, Soeren said:

And remember unless you plan to show a 5mm face on format filling 32" screens, anything you can acomplish looks way better than not doing it at all. For me it is enough when I like me figures or models observed as close as 4", but mostly 1'ä foot distance is really OK for me in most cases. Nonetheless you can learn alot from those YouTube videos and how to improve.

 

19 hours ago, Bullbasket said:

This is just a personal observation, but for me, I don't bother with going as far as putting a pupil into the eye. In 1/35th scale, it's just too small. After painting the whites of the eye, all I add is a dot for the iris. As can be seen in this photo, it doesn't notice that there is no pupil.

John.

Thanks, I've just completed one figure to go with the long overdue RFI Otter, I had pretty much done him before I started the queries regarding figures so don't be too harsh. (At least he's looking down so his eyes aren't prominent).

 

However, will take onboard all these excellent suggestions and try to get some decent figures going.

 

Thanks again

Darryl 

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Very little progress to report save tyre painting and wheel fitting.

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Need to touch up paintwork on the tyres. However I can confirm the wheels once assembled with polycaps are a very tight fit over the stub axles on the swinging arms!     

I wouldn't normally resort to pliers, even pointed nose, for modelling!

What did help was a drop of oil on the axles if that's of help to anyone, likewise plan the order in which you fit the wheels as they overlap. I started at the front drive wheel and worked backwards.

 

Until next time.

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Loving this build, I've started the same kit about a week ago, and your build is really helping me. Any more progress on it?

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7 hours ago, Jasonb13 said:

Loving this build, I've started the same kit about a week ago, and your build is really helping me. Any more progress on it?

Hi, thanks for looking in, as for progress, shamefully no. 

 

It's sat next to the bench demanding attention, which it actually deserves, perhaps once I've finished the Grant I'll crack on with it....:hmmm:

 

Hope you're enjoying it, I did, and pretty vice free as I recall apart from the tracks that look a pain.

 

Any queries just shout!

 

Cheers

Darryl 

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Does that mean you haven't done the tracks yet? I've spent the last few evenings cleaning up the attachment points from 216 tracks and 432 guide horns! 

 

Next step on mine is the PE Camo tie downs. Two issues though. 1, It says to fold them, but I've no idea which way to fold them, it's not clear at all (some of the instructions leave too much to the imagination). 2. Another reason why I've no idea how to fold them is 'cos I can't see any Jagdpanthers that have them on the sides of the hull in the pictures I have, so I don't know what they're meant to look like. In fact, the lack of them in the pictures makes me wonder if I should be adding them at all?

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8 hours ago, Jasonb13 said:

Does that mean you haven't done the tracks yet? I've spent the last few evenings cleaning up the attachment points from 216 tracks and 432 guide horns! 

 

Next step on mine is the PE Camo tie downs. Two issues though. 1, It says to fold them, but I've no idea which way to fold them, it's not clear at all (some of the instructions leave too much to the imagination). 2. Another reason why I've no idea how to fold them is 'cos I can't see any Jagdpanthers in picture that have them on the sides of the hull, so I don't know what they're meant to look like. In fact, the lack of them in the pictures makes me wonder if I should be adding them at all?

I would guess that's why it's still looking at me, even contemplated after market tracks to avoid....must get back to it asap.:drunk:

 

As for the tie downs, I doubt all JPs had them fitted, and certainly not all builds have had them. However, if you've pre-drilled the holes, I folded them by eye with the lugs pointing downwards and used those as the guide when it came to inserting them into the holes.

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Atb

Darryl 

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Cool, thanks, that makes sense. Have actually decided not to do the tie downs on mine, the tracks are going to take up enough time! :)

 

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Nice work Darryl, especially the dark wash around the nuts on the road wheels.

 

John.

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On 22/05/2020 at 23:13, BlackMax12 said:

Looking good Darryl. Like the subtle weathering, just right.

 

Lloyd

 

On 23/05/2020 at 09:13, Bullbasket said:

Nice work Darryl, especially the dark wash around the nuts on the road wheels.

 

John.

Thanks, appreciate the positive feedback. 

Cheers 

Darryl 

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At last a little more progress, tracks done, just need painting,  weathering etc...

An afternoon in the sunshine.

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A first for me, Fruils, what a pleasure, I know some folk dislike making them but ...

I found it quite relaxing, perhaps lucky but all went together hitch free. Except for breaking a 0.5mm drill bit, and stabbing myself in a finger and thumb with the wire.

Took about 4hrs to make up both sides and set to length, way quicker and easier than Mengs offering and these sit more naturally. 

 

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Going to have a go at burnishing them prior to paint and weathering. 

 

I know they aren't cheap but modelling time is short and valuable and this could be sat on the shelf for months waiting for me to get around to the Meng ones.

 

Thanks for looking, hope to get this finished, eventually...

Darryl 

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They look great Darryl. I bought one set for a Panther way back when and they are much better than the Meng or Dragon offerings and 

magnitudes better than the dumb Tamiya rubber band junk. The sag is realistic and they add some heft to the model and it's easy to

have some worn bare metal on the tread faces and the guide horns.  The drawback is they are over Cdn$80 per set.

Run a lead pencil around the rims of the inside road wheels to show where they rubbed on the inside of the guide horns when you

get to the weathering. They were usually pretty bare metal.

 

Lloyd

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Thanks Lloyd, I agree, so much better than the kit offerings, bit expensive but I'm sure this won't be the last time I use some.

 

They are quite pleasingly weighty and yes, I'll need to work on the wheel rims, might be awkward as the wheels won't come off easily, those poly caps! (Remembering your Meng Panther episode was in mind when I fitted them...).

 

Must avoid being a modeller that gets Fruils or similar for every build or it'll get really expensive but multi part plastic tracks are a pain.

 

Take care

Darryl

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Tracks came out a treat Darryl......I know they're a cost, but worth it. I've gone for some Modelkasten recently.....they're Ok, but a trial to build, and don't have the weight for the sag, so will have to install and set in place.

 

Nice job mate overall......I like the subtle shipping. I've changed my chipping style on the last few projects.....less in your face as such as on this one.

 

 

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Coming together well now that the tracks are fitted. Not to far to the finish line now!

 

  Stay safe           Roger

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I'm thoroughly enjoying your build Darryl. As an aircraft modeller, I have puzzled over possible assembly sequences for Tanks, and your approach has been most informative. I've got a number of AFVs in the stash, but haven't had a go at any of them yet. This thread is very helpful. You mention earlier that you only tacked the roof in place before painting. Are you anticipating removing it or is it permanently fixed now?

 

Great work on the camouflage as well. Looking forward to seeing this finished!

 

:like:

 

SD

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57 minutes ago, Redcoat2966 said:

Tracks came out a treat Darryl......I know they're a cost, but worth it. I've gone for some Modelkasten recently.....they're Ok, but a trial to build, and don't have the weight for the sag, so will have to install and set in place.

 

Nice job mate overall......I like the subtle shipping. I've changed my chipping style on the last few projects.....less in your face as such as on this one.

 

 

Thanks Simon,  I remember asking you a while ago about different track options, however to be honest there wasn't much choice, availability wise, so Fruils it was. And quite happy with them I am too.

 

Picked some burnishing fluid up months ago, so will try a couple of spare links in it and see what happens. 

 

Even suggested to the wife I could make her a bracelet out of the spare links, offered to weather it or leave factory fresh, she didn't seem impressed...

 

Good luck with the change of style, tbh I tend to bang away at it till it looks ok....but dont tell anyone, it's supposed to be carefully planned. 

 

Cheers

Darryl 

 

 

6 minutes ago, Hamden said:

 

Coming together well now that the tracks are fitted. Not to far to the finish line now!

 

  Stay safe           Roger

Thanks Roger,  it does feel as if I'm literally pushing this thing along for real, however it'll get there.....sometime!

 

Atb

Cheers

Darryl 

 

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Considering the time between this and the previous post  you could  have taken the oob route as well. ;)

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