georgeusa Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 Nylon meshing perhaps? Like what you get some vegetables wrapped in at the grocery store (oranges, lemons?). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heloman1 Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 Nice work on the intake mesh framewrk Hendie. Maybe for the mesh, make up a former and work a piece PE brass mess into shape. It should be self supporting. Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 Your perseverance is really bearing fruit - the rotor head realignment is excellent. I built the Heller 1/48 (-ish) Gazelle last year, and some of the issue you are encountering are strangely familiar - notably the fit of the canopy. I have to say your fix looks a good deal better than mine. The "some sort of gauge" in the nose is almost certainly an outside air temperature gauge, I'd say. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 Shape a piece of metal. Get nylon fine mesh (florist?) warm metal. crash mould mesh. It might even work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted July 28, 2014 Author Share Posted July 28, 2014 Thanks guys, all the comments are much appreciated. Ex-FAAWAFU, an air temperature gauge makes sense, though being in HK it was probably binary and just read either "damn hot" and "freaking hot" I am taking bits of advice for everyone's comments and have a plan regarding the mesh.... I found some Xmas wrapping ribbon which is essentially a very fine mesh. I'm not sure of the material but it's probably nylon or some other type of polymer. My plan is to make a male mold, then heat the ribbon up with a hot air gun and try and form the mesh over/around the mold. I even found white mesh and red mesh which are the two colors I need and will save me having to try and spray the mesh. The red has a slightly metallic sheen to it but I am hoping that on such a small component it won't really be visible, especially against a red background. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 Excellent update and thanks for the link. trouble is, having seen that cool French Navy scheme, I need one of these kits as well! Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 Excellent work hendie. As ever. After some fettling, filing, cursing, sacrificing and cat kicking, Please don't kick or sacrifice your cat. They don't like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted July 28, 2014 Author Share Posted July 28, 2014 A small but important update this evening. As you can see here I managed to finish off the support bars for the engine intakes. In retrospect, the framework is a bit, erhmnnn.... agricultural, shall we say. However, once the mesh in in place, these should look respectable. The Tamiya tape lining the sides of the cowling is to prevent glue seeping everywhere (I can be very messy at times). So, yes you guessed it - I finally glued the cowling in place - another milestone completed !!! The Dauphin is now starting to feel a lot more solid and not as flimsy and plasticky feeling as I have become accustomed to over the last few months. I'm still going to leave the masking on the canopy until I have finished the major gluing tasks as if I remove the masking now, I am guaranteed to leave grubby paw prints over the clear parts before I am finished. The view from the front. There will be a little amount of filling required but not too much at all. I am starting to feel quite pleased with the project now - things seem to be going well - oops, there I have gone and angered the plastic gods again! With the cowling in place, I have set the kit aside for the evening as I don't want to chance knocking it out of position while the glue cures. Next phase is to fit the fairing that goes between the engine cowling and the spine. It's all starting to take shape now! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted July 29, 2014 Author Share Posted July 29, 2014 ... and we follow last night's small update with.... tonight's small update! The first items on tonight's agenda were these ehrmmmnnn.... round things. I sliced off a couple of pieces of styrene tubing and glued them to a piece of styrene sheet. Once the glue had set, I trimmed around the tubes with snips then filed around the perimeter to try and get them reasonably circular and smooth. I then filed a flat on one side of the disc thingy and then punched out two small discs from the remainder of the styrene sheet. - What is all this for ? I hear you ask .... Well, to be honest I am not really sure. When I left the thread last night I mentioned that the next phase was to glue the fairing to the rear of the engine cowling. - and as I am prone to do.... just before I slapped the glue on the fairing, I remembered that there were a couple of "things" visible from the rear of the a/c just below the exhausts. Engine parts of some description but other than that who knows? - I'm not a sumpy - I were a rigger (once... a long, long time ago!). So I thought I had better fit them now or I would never get them in once the fairing was in place. They sit just about here...... And this is as much as you see once the fairing is in place... And then those extra little discs go on top of the canister thingy. Like so... Once the exhausts are in place, it's highly unlikely you'll ever be able to see anything, but I'll use the old "but I'll know it's there" excuse. - and it is better than just the flat empty space which would be there otherwise. The rear fairing is now glued on... no going back now! and another close up (out of focus) of those enginey tubey parts... The view from behind - everything just about lines up too !!! Bonus! Then slapped some filler on the join along the spine, which was in poor condition after all my messing about. And for the observant or eagle eyed among you - there are two small white triangles on the tail fin - I spotted some strengthening plates in my reference photo's so thought I may as well add them. So, that's where we are tonight. Now it's all filling, shaping and sanding for a while. There's also a few panels I need to scribe in, and some other fittings and widgets here and there. Most of it will be straight forward, albeit time consuming. The hardest part will be trying to make a couple of marker/ID lights which sit on the side above the fuel filler. I have a number of photo's of them - all out of focus and very fuzzy, and I am having a hard time figuring out what shape it actually is. From looking at all my photo's I think the front part has the port/stbd ID lights but there appears to be another clear light (strobe?) sticking out perpendicular from the side. This is about the best photo I have of it. It's quite prominent on the a/c side so somehow I have to replicate it, although in this scale it's going to be tiny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infofrog Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 What primer are you using ? Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted July 30, 2014 Author Share Posted July 30, 2014 up till now I have just been using Krylon primer straight from the rattle can. I have used it on a couple of builds and like it. Easy to use and no airbrush clean up afterwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infofrog Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Does it dry fast ? I been you tamiya gray spray can .. Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted July 30, 2014 Author Share Posted July 30, 2014 It's touch dry within 10 minutes, but I always leave it a lot longer as I find if you handle it too soon, it can feel just very slightly tacky so I always try to find something else to work on for a while 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infofrog Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Is this it ? Im do for new can Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted July 30, 2014 Author Share Posted July 30, 2014 yeah, that looks like it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infofrog Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 THANK YOU I tried rust oleum . i did not like it . Took for ever to dry . It was to hot .. Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Round things in the engines; the rear face of auxiliary drive train (i.e. wot drives the oil pumps etc)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted July 30, 2014 Author Share Posted July 30, 2014 aha - you are a fountain of knowledge sir. (Being a rigger, I always left the sumpy's to their own..... dirty oily bunch.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 things seem to be going well - oops, there I have gone and angered the plastic gods again! The plastic gods are fickle creatures, you never know how they are going to react. I think they are smiling down on your build right now. Long may it continue. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted July 30, 2014 Author Share Posted July 30, 2014 The last couple of days were great - I seemed to make great moves forward. Unfortunately now it's going to slow down a bit. I have some re-scribing to do so so I need to dig out my reference photo's and start trying to determine the panel positions etc. I'm also having trouble making those marker lights I mentioned in an earlier post - they are so prominent on the a/c that I feel I have to include them, but at that scale they are so small they are almost impossible to work with. Tonight's sanding session went well, but there's no point in posting any photo's of that. I'll just keep plugging away until I have something to show for my efforts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeusa Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 Hendie, On the strobe light or whatever it is, could the end of clear sprue be sanded or carved to shape for this, then cut off of the sprue and glued on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted July 31, 2014 Author Share Posted July 31, 2014 that's my plan George. The hardest part is that the entire light is probably half the size of a grain of rice - and my fingers are twice the size of a good bratwurst 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 I can hear it go PING! from here 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted July 31, 2014 Author Share Posted July 31, 2014 already started twice on the lights and so far discarded both versions. I reckon I should be good to go around versions 7 or 8 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infofrog Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 that's my plan George. The hardest part is that the entire light is probably half the size of a grain of rice - and my fingers are twice the size of a good bratwurst Thats so funny Same problem here with my Huey Build , The door handles so small . I lost two handles in the carpet .. Lucky me Revell sent me two new handles .. Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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