F-104 "Hunting Cat"

[colin]

What paint are you using, looks like you where spraying too heavy a coat in one go, spray a light coat and build up the layers. keep the airbrush moving all the time, I tend to move my hand in a small circles as I spray, even if I'm going from side to side over a large area(if you get what I mean) especially if you trying to get the paint into tight areas, keep moving and don't let it build up.

Gloss spraying is a black art I find also, I probably would have sprayed a matt white and then put a gloss varnish over all of it.

What are you thinning your paint with, Tamiya/Gunze I will use lacquer as it drys very quickly and reduces the chance of the paint running

Edit :your using Enamels, try the lacquer thinner

[georgeusa]

I am using Tamiya paint with Tamiya thinner as I am not quite confident enough to venture out with thinners not made by the paint manufacturer. I may have got heavy handed, but I was purposely trying to put on very light coats. I really think I did not wait long enough between coats and should have used some very fine grit sandpaper on the first coat before spraying the second coat. I did not think about spraying a matte finish and then using a clear gloss over it. The way hairy stick painters and air brush painters consider how to paint a kit are radically different. I really do appreciate all the advice and help I am getting concerning how to airbrush. It is a big help and hopefully will improve my learning curve. (You know from flat line to a hint of an upward curve.)

[Duncan B]

Enamel paints are usually quite easy to use but do take a lot more time to fully cure than acrylics. If you can still smell paint from the kit then it is still curing.

For your translucent orange you can still use the orange paint you have but just put very light coats on, not much more than dusting them on really. You will be able to build up very thin layers that will give you the colour but not so densely as a solid coat, give it a try on some scrap plastic or an old model.

Duncan B

[Bri48]

Hi georgeusa,

Don't lose heart with spraying or white paint problems....all will come right in the end.

I like you use enamels and always have, but make sure you spray or paint in a well ventilated area, face mask as appropriate or good extraction system.

Whites, nowadays I always use a spray can, Halfords "appliance white" or Poundsteacher White £1 a can. Always spray the white "First" after primer.

If i had been tackling your model, and this is just my opinion, I would first assemble as much of the model as possible, clean up as best i could, then overall spray with a black primer. The reason I would use a black primer is that with old kits most of the rivets panel lies etc are raised and therefore when you are fully finished painting the model you can, before finally coatiing with a suitable varnish, give the model a light rub which will expose the black underneath, highlighting panel lines rivets etc.

Anyway after priming, spray the entire model spray can white, spray in a well ventilated area of course, let it dry a couple of days and afterwards your enamels should cover ok.

Tips:

For masking use low tack tape.

For white spraying......use some distance from the model, little is best.

For enamel spraying.....try not to over-thin and little is best, allow a little time between coats.

Just my two pence worth.....all the best.

Link to current build @ Hasegawa 1/32 Skyhawk.

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234935291-32nd-124-builds-in-progress/?hl=%20124%20%20harrier

[Val]

Hi Georgeusa,

Don't lose heart, you're doing a fine job on this lovely aircraft, and I'm sure you'll be able to recover this model 100%. I've never sprayed enamels or solvent based paints, other than metalizers, so I'm not really much help. I use acrylics and stick mainly to wonderfully easy to use Tamiya range. However, I would say that I find white is by a distance the hardest colour to get right. It seems to take four or five coats to build up the colour, even over a light grey primer. The darker colours seem to spray so much easier. I do always prime, but I see lots of people don't. Basically what I'm saying is hang in there, you'll be fine and this model will be great!

Best of luck,

Val

[georgeusa]

Thanks to all for the encouragement. Life and work has slowed progress down and I will not be able to get much done this weekend as I have teenage herding chores. I will try to remedy the existing white surface to enable respraying and finishing that color. I will post with any new progress. Again, thanks for the encouraging words from everyone.

[georgeusa]

White update. Here is the update from this weekend. Most of the weekend, my tool was this:

The steers are big enough for conversion processes. (For more information, wait about 20 minutes and check out Nigel’s Antics II). Finally, late Sunday I could switch the above tools for these:

Spent some time sanding down the runs and paint problems with the white layer of the Hunting Cat. After progressive sanding grits, I ended up the below smooth surfaces.

I then gave an ever so careful light spray with the white and ended up, finally, with a very smooth white glossy surface.

There are a couple of places where the white bled through and need to be cleaned up. Overall, I am happy with the finish. The last picture showing the starboard side is the next paint project. The starboard side of the plane remains in the standard camo scheme of olive and grey. I haven’t decided on the colors to paint this yet and will do some research as to shades/tints. It also depends if I can rig a protective cover over the white side that covers it, but doesn’t touch it as the white paint needs to cure for the next week or so. After the white side cures, it will be masked, plus the starboard and bottom so I can paint the rear port portion of the plane orange. Comments always welcome.

[hendie]

Excellent job there George - you should be really proud of that end result. It was definitely worth the effort.

now, did you make a note of your settings so the next time you attempt to spray white, you can obtain the same result?

What masking tape did you use? I have been lucky so far in as much as everything I have painted has been a block color, and I have not had to mask areas off - but that will soon change.

[georgeusa]

It varies. For the fine stuff and canopies, I use Tamiya tape. I have been convinced by the conversations NIgel and Duncan had to try bare metal foil on the next canopy though. For general overall coverage of large areas, I just use Scotch Brand 3/4" blue low tack painter's tape.

[Duncan B]

That white paint has turned out very nicely, well worth the effort put in.

Duncan B

[Val]

Great save, looking sweet now

[Giorgio N]

Good job George !

I have to apologise as in the end I never found the drawings for the ventral fins... I see that you've sorted brilliantly without these fortunately. Still, very sorry for not having sent you the info as promised !

Like the metal undersurfaces too, these were painted and not natural metal, so no variation in panel tonality is needed. Your model seems to capture well the finish of the real thing, at least on my screen

[georgeusa]

Giorgio, you still gave me the information I needed, so no worries!! Glad you like it so far. The next two paint stages are the ones most concerned about. One, is the camo scheme and at least approximating the correct colors. The second is my experiment with using clear orange for the effect on the lowere port side of the fuselage. Still thinking about how to do each as I am letting the white paint fully harden and set before I mask it.

[georgeusa]

While I was contemplating the next round of paint, I began to look at the nose cone. The Revell instructions would have the nose cone painted a different color than the body. But, looking at photos of the actual aircraft, it seems as if the one side special scheme, the other side regular scheme was carried over to include the entire length of the nose cone. So, I thought I could just mask one side of the nose cone, a very light spray of white over it and presto, job done. This airbrush thing is not so easy. This is what resulted:

Now, I think I have finally figured out why there is so many runs with the white paint. It is very glossy and very slick. If I have to respray a section, I think it is mandatory I lightly sand the prior coat before it is oversprayed or runs will occur. So, it is back to waiting for this to dry, sand it down again and then respray. White is going to kill me. I will see you after I sand.

[Starfighter]

I'm following this with interest, George. At the moment I'm at the painting stage of my Hasegawa 1/32 F-104, which will be a Dutch aircraft from the early '60's, so it's interesting to see how you get on with your painting.

Keep up the good work.

[georgeusa]

Another small pathetic update. I have resanded the white area of the fuselage again because of runs. What I changed from the last time is I resanded the entire section with very fine grit sanding blocks. After a wonderfully delightful sanding time, I then held my breath and applied a very light coat of white. Success I think. There are no runs and the surface looks all shiny and smooth as it should.

What I did notice when sanding is that the paint is still subject to finger prints after a week of drying. So, I will put this kit aside for at least another week before I even think of masking this finish to move on to the next coat of paint. That is it for now. Comments welcome.

[hendie]

Glad to see you beat the beast into submission George.

Are you using enamels? I saw a webpage where some guy had created a drying box - basically an upside down Sterilite box with a light bulb inside to slowly bake his models. Aha... found it again = http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/tools_techniques_and_reference_materials/f/18/t/146050.aspx

[georgeusa]

Hendie,

I am using enamels. And I am not quite sure who is beating who into submission. I still have 3 other major colors to put on, plus some fun stuff on the nose cone. The drying box looks pretty nice and I might try it. I don't think it would work for this kit, as it is longer than my standard computer keyboard. I wonder what would happen to it if I left it in the car tomorrow afternoon. It is supposed to get into the low 90s? I would just be afraid it might get too hot and warp the plastic.

[hendie]

yeah, I don't think I would try that. I think it needs a constant low heat for a while, ideally with some airflow.

[S5 modeller]

Glad to see you are getting over your white woes.

I hate white.

Can't you bung it in the oven on the lowest setting for 10 minutes or so?

Might work, just don't leave it too long.

Good to see progres, can't wait to see the finished article.

Matt.

[Duncan B]

It's looking good George but boy are you having to work to get that finish!

Enamels are too much work for me, long drying time, too easy to run, nasty cellulose thinners. You should try Gunze's Mr Color range of acrylics, they are very tough with a quick drying time (2 hours and you can mask up and go for the next colour), they don't clog up like other brands if you use their own thinners and most importantly they are easy to use to get a nice finish without sanding back.

Duncan B

[georgeusa]

Duncan,

I may try some as my stash of enamels runs out. I just hate to invest in another batch of paints and then just trash the enamels I have. I have experimented with Humbrol acrylics and I am not impressed. Same with Tamiya as they seem to lack coverage. I will try a few of the Mr. Color, but I am already having issues with the demon, black art of airbrushing and am not quite sure I want to add another unknown to it at this point in time. Also, I like to get my paints, supplies, knick knacks, etc. at the local hobby shop to support them. None of them carry Mr. Color. But, I am willing to try just about anything twice. Thanks.

[Giorgio N]

Giorgio, you still gave me the information I needed, so no worries!! Glad you like it so far. The next two paint stages are the ones most concerned about. One, is the camo scheme and at least approximating the correct colors. The second is my experiment with using clear orange for the effect on the lowere port side of the fuselage. Still thinking about how to do each as I am letting the white paint fully harden and set before I mask it.

George, regarding the camo scheme, can you get lifecolor paints where you live ? If so, they have the correct Italian Air Force camouflage colours.

If not, I'll go through a couple of references that have Humbrol equivalents.

[georgeusa]

Giorgio,

I will check and see.

[hendie]

Duncan,

I may try some as my stash of enamels runs out. I just hate to invest in another batch of paints and then just trash the enamels I have. I have experimented with Humbrol acrylics and I am not impressed. Same with Tamiya as they seem to lack coverage. I will try a few of the Mr. Color, but I am already having issues with the demon, black art of airbrushing and am not quite sure I want to add another unknown to it at this point in time. Also, I like to get my paints, supplies, knick knacks, etc. at the local hobby shop to support them. None of them carry Mr. Color. But, I am willing to try just about anything twice. Thanks.

George, I tried the mr Color and really liked them - they were reasonably priced too - the kicker was that it seemed I always had to order them from Taiwan which took up to two weeks to arrive.

I am using Model Masters acrylics now, mainly because of their availability, but they seem to do a decent job.