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About Starfighter

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    Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 04/28/1950

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  • Location
    N E Essex
  • Interests
    Century Series jets, Bundesluftwaffe, Battle of Britain, World War II aviation

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  1. Thanks for that, ronnie . . .i've decided to bite the bullet and use the kit tracks. I 'm doing the links and guide horns in stages of 20 a time, that way I won't get "Track fatigue " plus my fingers and thumbs can recover, ha ha ha ! Once they're assembled and painted they'll look good, plus I know they will fit.
  2. Hi Arid, As you guessed, I've already glued the top of the hull to the bottom, but luckily by leaving the top panels loose you will be able to see most of the interior anyway, and the engine bay and forward large panels are nice snug fits, so I've decided that that is the easiest option. One thing I have found is that the Taigen metal tracks I bought won't fit round the rear idler wheels , so I'm now embarking on using the kit tracks, with all 172 guide horns per track to assemble ! Hey ho, I'll just do them in batches of 20 or so, that way I can avoid " Track fatigue " . Thanks for your suggestion, though . . . seems like a good idea for the future. By the way, if you know of anyone who needs a set of metal tracks let me know !
  3. Hi ronnie42, I found some photos on the internet of Rye Field and Takom Panthers, where you can see most of the interior colours, which was a great help. I used Humbrol 123 satin extra dark sea grey for the gearbox, turret motor, handles and levers, etc. which looked about right for me.They say to paint the whole lower hull interior red oxide, but if you look at photos it only extends to a level with the main floor, with the upper part and turret interior light cream/grey, which is available from several paint producers, but I used Humbrol Cream, as it's easy to get hold of, and looks OK ( To me ) There are several books available, and I'd recommend the new Haynes manual on the Panther, which has lots of info, and detail pics. I've got the hull halves together now, and about to fit the tracks, which are the Taigen metal tracks, as I couldn't face fitting all those guide horns to every link ! I originally planned to leave the top loose to enable the interior to be viewed, but after I'd fitted all the shells I found it wouldn't sit properly . . . Possibly something I didn't get quite right, so it's now glued together. However, all the upper panels are a snug fit, so lifting them off enables one to see inside, so no major disaster !
  4. You've done an amazing job, Alan, and one you should br proud of. I've built this kit as an airplane from JaboG 32 of the Luftwaffe, and also the Hasegawa kit in the early overall light grey of the Netherlands AF . . . If I could work out how to post pictures here I would !
  5. I have the F40 series book on German F-84's, and all the cockpits in the photos are dark gull grey. as is the instrument panel ( With black dials, of course ) . HTH .
  6. Looking really good, Alan. I can almost hear that famous howl !
  7. I agree with Creepy Pete . . . The Videoaviation pod is an excellent buy, and comes complete with practice bombs. I've got one for my 1/32 F-100, which i shall build in the near future.
  8. Looking really good, Alan. you might be able to reduce the silvering on the decals by pricking them with a pin and re - applying decal solvent like microsol, which sometimes works. Also, a lot of the F-104's I've seen had a canvas type cover over the mechanism of the M61 cannon, which might interest you, but your gun looks excellent as it is.
  9. Hi guys, I'm progressing slowly with my build, but I have a question that maybe someone who has built this model can help me with ? My question is this . . . Where, oh where do all the stencils go, as the kit instructions show no details, apart from a couple of dials, turret numbers and shell markings. As for all the others . . . Nothing ! Although it's a lovely kit, Trumpeter have let themselves down badly with their almost total lack of decal info, so if anyone can help I'd be truly grateful.
  10. Perhaps I'm lucky, but I've managed to achieve a good fit with the top half of the hull, so only very small gaps appear. Mind you, fitting the engine was a pig, as the side " Springs" on the engine got in the way, and the oil ? tank prevented the engine sitting properly on it's bearers, so as it was invisible anyway it ended up in the bin ! The fit problems may be down to me, but the instruction diagrams are very confusing in some areas
  11. Not sure of the actual measurements, but the two seat F-105 F and G tail was taller than the single seat B and D aircraft. HTH
  12. I think my forward bulkhead is OK, but I might have another look at the one for the engine bay. Also, I've got to do some work on the back of the tank, as I've found it a VERY tight fit, so out with the files and wet & dry paper . . . we'll get there in the end !
  13. I checked my model, and the gaps on the side sponsons are not as pronounced as yours, but as I'm intending to have the top removable I sanded down the undersides of the sponsons and bevelled the edge slightly, so it's not very noticeable now. As you say, if I was fitting the skirts I wouldn't bother, but I prefer the look without them, plus you get a better view of the nice Taigen metal tracks that I've just bought !
  14. Quick Panther update : I've just received some Taigen metal tracks from Forgebear for my model, and I'm very impressed with the quality, and also the fast delivery from them . . . they arrived by return post, so very impressed ! I'm sure the weight won't be a problem, as mine is a static model.plus they're are pre - assembled, so no faffing around with guide horns !
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