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  1. Hi looking for book title not sure if this is the right area, but in the 70's i remember i read a book with an article on how to make decals, basically, paint the object then coat in varnish, old school way i can't remember the exact procedure, hence i am trying to remember which book had the info, as i want to do a one off small decal cheers jerry
  2. Has anyone used decals by the manufacturer Le Mans. Any idea if they are any good?
  3. There's an Italian seller on Ebay , prontomodel, that has a lot of Tauro Model decals. If I'm not mistaken the company is not operating and especially the camouflage decals are hard to find. There are still some sheet available. Eduard has now sheets for smoke rings, or amoebas like the Italians say, but Tauro has other types of amoebas, which would be extremely difficult to airbrush, as the 'tentacles' are very narrow. I have no previous experience of Tauro decals. Does someone know who printed them, there's nothing written on the sheets. Based on photos of built models they look quite good and no carrier film is visible. I tried to use Printscale's smoke rings, the experience was awful, every single one wants to fold, even sliding them off the backing paper was impossible, as they just slid on the underside of it. In hindsight I should have used a sponge. That's what Printscale's owner says, not to dip them in water. In any case the silvering was so bad that the model is in a box with other wrecks.
  4. Yep, you read that correctly, the Airfix 48th Tornado. Why? Because I have it around 80% complete and the Revell jobby will take me an age to throw together. Intentions are to have it in flight, low level over a blured desert backdrop with magnets for JP233, LGBs and wing tanks so they can be changed around. But I have few questions, if I may, that I think you lovely lot can help me with rather efficiently: 1: Decals. I see the Printscale 48040 set that is very comprehensive with white stencils included and the Kitsworld KW148126 set that is half the price but without white stencils. Any thoughts on these or any others with particular thought re the shark mouth fitting the Airfix kit properly and stencil requirements? 2a: Cockpit.... Is there any aftermarket or did noone see the point for this kit? 2b: Seats with crew. The best way of going about this? Kit seats and crew with tape belts? Is aftermarket really worth it here? 3: Fuel tanks. Am I right in thinking that in the early days of the conflict they flew with the smaller tanks with the JP233 and later with the LGBs they switched to the larger F3 tanks? 4: Magnets. 1x1mm will do the job? I was thinking 2 magnets per bomb and per tank, 4 for the 233s? Any links would be great. 5: Mounting the thing. Steady now... I was thinking predrilled perspex rod up the exhausts with some fairly heavy Tig welding wire down the centre, bent down to a predrilled picture frame base. Sensible? Or are there better/easier ways bearing in mind the kit is about 80% complete? This is for a 17th birthday, in 4 weeks time, so any help (or abuse) is welcome, as always
  5. A6M2-N Rufe SPACE Cockpit Set (3DL48114) 1:48 Eduard The Eduard SPACE sets use 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin on decal paper, creating highly realistic almost fully complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted PE is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. This set contains both a sheet of 3D printed decals and a small fret of nickel-plated Photo-Etch (PE) for the seatbelts, two straps to adapt the rudder pedals into a rudder bar, plus a ring sight that is installed at the front of the standard gunsight. The decal sheet includes fronts for the cockpit sidewall, the side consoles and equipment in the lower wall area, which extends to several boxes. The instrument panel and additional binnacles that surround it are also included on the sheet, and as with the rest of them, the raised details should be removed beforehand. It’s a couple of months since we’ve had a SPACE set in for review, and I’d quite forgotten how good they look. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  6. Begemot has released a new set of decals in 1/72 for the Ka-52 Alligator. They include helicopters of Russian units wearing the "Z" and V" markings used over Ukraine in the "Special Military Operation zone" 2022 and onwards as well as with Egyptian desert camo. http://www.begemotdecals.ru/showpos.php?&lang=2&pic=2&id=216 http://www.begemotdecals.ru/doc/72-069 Ka-52 ins1.pdf http://www.begemotdecals.ru/doc/72-069 Ka-52 ins2.pdf http://www.begemotdecals.ru/catalog/pic216b.jpg http://www.begemotdecals.ru/catalog/pic216b_1.jpg
  7. Has anyone tried to spray Microscale Liquid Decal Film through an airbrush? I've used it often to save older or fragile decals and applied it with a soft brush, but would like to try spraying it. So a second question is - what did you thin it with, if at all? And a third question - what did you use to clean your airbrush? I have a good selection of cheap airbrushes that I wouldn't be too worried about ruining, so it's not critical! Thanks in advance S
  8. F4F-3 Early SPACE Interior Set (3DL48080 for Eduard) 1:48 Eduard The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted PE is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. This set includes a full set of 3D printed instrument panel sections, plus additional parts that are applied to the side consoles to replace many of the raised portions of the styrene parts, with some slight differences from the later set we reviewed a while ago. There is also a pair of printed document cases for the sidewalls, and while the PE sheet is almost totally made up of seatbelt parts, there is also a handle for the side consoles and a backing plate for the larger of the two document folders. Highly recommended. Currently out of stock at Eduard, but check back later Review sample courtesy of
  9. Hi All If anyone is thinking of getting this kit, there are a few parts misprint in the instructions. Also, in my kit anyway, there were no painting masks, even though they were shown in the instructions (I've contacted the supplier and ICM). So the wrongly numbered parts are in sections 31-33, the parts are supposed to be H8, H12, H3 & H2; and in Section 42 part D19 (attaches to D12) should be D17. Also, although the final paint versions show which decals are to be used, decals #1 and #2 are not shown where to be placed. As it turns out decal #1 is the instrument panel and goes on E27, but I cannot see where decal #2 is supposed to go. It's a bit late if it goes inside the cockpit as I've completed that. Finally, I would suggest that you place H8 and C3 on the front of fuselage (section 10) and before leaving it to dry, loosely place G12 in place so as to ensure proper fitting once Section 10 has completely cured. Finally, before placing G12, cement section 28 in place. I found it did not fit as shown in the instructions. Eventually got it more-or-less in position. There is no color call out for the internal parts, so assumed the cockpit and where the paratrooper sit, the floor is painted steel, and the controls painted steel with the handles in matt black and the base of parts E9 and E30 in khaki. Trust this is all as clear as mud and makes sense. Thank you.
  10. Hi all, Relative newbie, coming VERY slowly up to speed. Having discovered the delights of Micro Set and Micro Sol, I wondered if there's any consensus among experienced members as to how to use Micro Set, between: Adding a little Micro Set to the area the decal is going to be placed on vs Adding Micro Set to the water to be used for lifting the decal Every other article/posting I read seems to alternate between one technique or the other. Anyone got any thoughts or advice? Apologies if this has been asked before. Thanks, Smudger
  11. I'm using the Bandau decals on their Boba Fett figure, yes I know they are not great but I'm trying to make it a quick and easy build. Does anything soften them enough to conform to compound curves? The cheek panels on the helmet are particularly troublesome. I've tried Micro Sol/Set, Mr Decal Softener and Tamiya MarkFit without any effect. The latter two I bought specifically for Japanese kit decals though neither has ever seemed to have done much.
  12. Mosquito B Mk.IV Updates (for Tamiya) 1:48 Eduard The Tamiya Mosquito is an iconic kit in 1:48, and although it was initially released in 1998 and this version was tooled the following year, it’s still a great build and accurate apart from the height of the tail fin if you believe the purists. It’s readily available again, and although the price has inevitably crept up, it’s still a fabulous kit of a superb aircraft. Eduard's new range of sets are here to improve on the kit detail in the usual modular manner, including some of the newer technologies they’ve taken to using. Get what you want for the areas you want to be more of a focal point. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. SPACE 3D Printed Cockpit Decals (3DL48097) The Eduard SPACE sets use new 3D printing techniques that lay down successive layers of different colour resin, creating highly realistic almost full complete panels that are supplied on a decal sheet. They can depict metallic shades, plus glossy, satin, and matt colours too, which really ups the detail on everything they print. In addition, a small sheet of nickel-plated and pre-painted PE is included for the aspects of the set that lend themselves better to this medium, such as seatbelts and rudder pedals. The instrument panel is completely replaced after removing the moulded-in details with a two-part decal plus a trio of levers, then the send/receive radio boxes have their fronts removed to be replaced by colourful new decals. The compass in front of the throttle quadrant is replaced by a new decal, then another six equipment boxes are replaced or added on both sidewalls. The rest of the PE parts are seatbelts for both crew members, requiring a small raised lump to be removed from the pilot’s headrest and a hole drilled in its location so that the shoulder belts can pass through. The navigator has an identical set of belts that drape over his smaller, more cramped seat slightly behind the pilot. Stencils (D48108 for Tamiya/Revell) Eduard’s stencil range has been growing steadily of late, providing sharp, detailed stencilling for numerous types, some of which are lacking from the originating manufacturer’s box. The latter can come in handy for your average modeller, as sometimes the kit doesn’t include a complete set of stencils for expediency or whatever reason. Some folks, myself included, think that the inclusion of a full suite of stencils adds extra realism to a model, although there is of course the time element and the extra carrier film edges to hide. Eduard have been busy of late and have released this comprehensive set we have to review. It arrives in a clear foil re-sealable envelope with a card stiffener, a cover page with instructions, plus the decals with wax paper protecting the delicate printed surface. This set arrives on one sheet, and is patterned for almost any 1:48 Mosquito kit due to the generic nature and placement of the stencils. Over the course of four profiles from overhead, underneath, and the sides, plus a diagram of the engine nacelles from the side, the locations of all the stencils are shown clearly on greyscale line drawings that use coloured arrows and numbers to differentiate from the background. Link to PDF of instructions. The decals are printed in-house by Eduard and have good register, sharpness and colour density, with a glossy carrier film printed close to the edges of the printed areas. Don’t forget that as of 2021, the carrier film from Eduard decals can be coaxed away from the printed part of the decal after they have been applied, effectively rendering them carrier-free, making the decals much thinner and more realistic, and obviating the need to apply successive coats of clear varnish to hide the edges of the film. It’s a great step further in realism from my point of view, and those large red boxes with crosses running over them will be substantially improved once the carrier film has been removed, with no chance of silvering. Masks (EX028) Supplied on a sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with a full set of masks for the canopy, with compound curved handled by using frame hugging masks, while the highly curved gaps are in-filled with either liquid mask or offcuts from the background tape. In addition, you get a set of hub/tyre masks for all the wheels (including the out-riggers), allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. Masks Tface (EX913) Supplied on a larger sheet of yellow kabuki tape, these pre-cut masks supply you with everything above, but also give you another set of canopy masks tailored to fit the interior of the glazing so that you can paint the interior and give your model that extra bit of realism. If you missed the review of the Löök set for this kit that we did a few weeks ago, you can find it here. Review sample courtesy of
  13. Hi all Print Scale do attractive decals for Mig-17 without mentioning the exact variant they are destined for. https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/PSL72008 Please any recommendations for a Mig-17 kit in 1/72 scale? In particular the Egyptian version? Are there any pics on the internet that will assist? Thanks in anticipation. M.M.
  14. I put a Tamiya gloss coat over my model before decals and all was fine. I then airbrushed Tamiya XF-86 over the model to give a matt finish but my decals in particular have faded significantly and the black decals for example appear more grey than black. I have overlayed the rest of the decal sheet to show how bad the fading is. This hasn't happened to me before and I'm not too happy with the finish and would even be happier with it back in gloss than its current state so I'm wondering would giving it a new clear coat undo this? Thanks in advance for any help!
  15. I have the old Airfix Canberra B.2 and their newer B(I)6 in the stash in 1/48, I would like to build one from Wyton circa 1987. Ideally the TT18 with black and yellow stripes would look good in such a large scale, but I can't find the target pods in aftermarket, nor, perhaps surprisingly any 100 sqn tailfin markings. Are there any available, or is it relatively easy to scratch build the Rushton pods? Which of the Airfix Canberra kits would be best to convert to a TT18? If the pods/conversion prove difficult perhaps I could just do a 100 Sqn B2 instead, I believe they operated some in the 80s, albeit grey underneath not yellow & black. Perhaps a question for @canberra kid?
  16. I’m hoping to build a Normandy Demag Panther A early based on the “Biouze” vehicle of 2.PzD being restored by the Wheatcroft Collection (Fgst.Nr.158134). For reference, I’ve got the Research Squad books detailing the restoration, but I’m looking for some advice on decals. I need to depict the original turret number I02 (which I think is in black numbers and a white outline) overpainted with 231 (in tall white numbers). Does anyone know of any decal sets that might be suitable? I’ve looked at Archer and Star but can’t seem to find a match. I’ve resigned myself to having to hand paint the ink-pot and quill turret emblem. Thanks in advance Rog
  17. Afternoon folks Had a curiosity. Having watched the new Top Gun I went ahead and put in an order for a 1/48 F/A-18F from Meng. Now this two-seater variant comes with Maverick's well known instructor markings (black spine and fins with the blue stripes) much like the single seat kit, though it would be inaccurate to paint up this variant in those markings. My curiosity is, is anybody aware of any upcoming aftermarket decals for the F models used by the other pilots in the main action? I had a look around and most searches refer you to the instructor markings (which the kit already has). The in movie unit (based on a screenshot) seems to be VF-51, which appears to have been disbanded. I believe it was the unit from the original movie as well. Ultimately no real biggie, but if they were in the pipe, I'd like to get my hands on them. Tiny name decals for the pilot helmets would be a great addition as well, hah. Thanks for your time, guys Gaz
  18. Hi everyone, I'm not sure if I should be posting this topic here or in the Cold War section, so please indulge me a little if you feel I have posted it im the wrong place. I am looking for decals in 1/72, 1/32 and 1/24 for early Indian Air Force roundels, notably, the 'chakra' symbol of a blue spinning wheel on a white circle as seen in the centre of the Indian tricolour. Does anyone know of any decals out there that fit th bill? Cheers, and thank you all very much for any help and for taking the time to read this thread, Viv
  19. I hope this is in the right forum, sorry if not. I'm hoping someone can help me. I'm building the Novo 1/72 Gloster Javelin. All has gone well with the building, rescribing and painting of the kit. But then came the decals. They have perished, break up into tiny pieces and are unfortunately unusable. I've looked on eBay and the only ones on there are around £15 with P&P, the kit only cost me £8! Can anyone point me in the right direction for some replacements? The main items I need are the roundels and the tri coloured tail marking. The rest I can cobble together with leftover decals box.
  20. Hi all. I am looking for a solution for cutting my own shape decals for a custom 144 airliner livery. Essentially, ideal would be a decal sheet like you'd get with a kit, but containing just one flat colour (I'm specifically after red, white and silver). It seems like this should be available out there, but i'm struggling to find anything apart from plain inkjet decal paper for printing. Not sure if it's not something you can get or if im just using the right search terms. Help appreciated! Thanks in advance.
  21. Hi I wanted to ask if anybody knows how long I should hold my airfix decals under water and what temperature everyone classes as ‘warm’ water because I’m worrying I’m using too hot of water. thanks lummy 06
  22. Calcas del Sur has released two new sets for the Airfix 1:72 and Hasegawa/Hobbycraft 1:48 A-Bs. The company has decided to release individual sheets for the A-4B/Qs 3-A-302/5/6/7/14. The sheets don't need to be trimmed next to the decal, so they should work like the regular decals. You can contact Juan on the Calcas del Sur's Facebook page via Messenger. Here's the decal sheet's artwork. Set in 1:72 Set in 1:48.
  23. Hmmm - "I know , i'll print my own decals! Not impressed with what's available on the aftermarket. How hard can it be?" I really don't know if it's the same with aircraft or military or any other 'subject', but automotive, especially sporting, where the vehicle is little more than a "moving billboard" and the true depiction of company logos is essential (isn't it?), I find it alarming that so many aftermarket producers seem to go for the "it's near enough". Perhaps it's my background in graphic design and specialism in typography for 50 years or more, or maybe the almost OCD attention to detail that I personally think my 'hobby' deserves. I know, I know; it's each to their own. I gain my own personal satisfaction from absolute truth to the subject and a determination to strive for perfection in depicting a subject as it was at a certain place and time, and nothing less will do. It's disappointing then to find on most aftermarket decal sheets the incorrect use of a typeface or the wrong colour for a company logo. I appreciate that comprehensive research is difficult and time consuming, identifying a typeface is sometimes impossible and colour is also problematic with historic photographs (manipulated for viewing on differently calibrated screens, etc) can send the researcher in completely the wrong direction, but it's not that hard to get nearer than some of the producers achieve. Take this for example: A period photograph showing the 'ESSO' company logo/aftermarket company attempt/my attempt - downloaded vector file from brandsoftheworld.com or seeklogo.com. NOTE the 's' and the 'o', just not correct on the aftermarket depiction. Anyway, that isn't the point of this article, merely some background and the spur which lead me to my 'adventure in decal land' and hopefully a guide to anyone who might consider following me down the same hole. Like every good story I'll deliver it in chapters so prepare yourself for a lengthy campaign. ChapterOne You can print your own decals at home or the office. I have an old Epson PHOTOSTYLUS PHOTO R1900, always used Epson genuine inks, prints up to A3 and can handle good thick card as well as the usual paper weights. I'm producing my artwork on a 16" MacBook Pro using Affinity Designer (a vector based programme - VERY similar to photoshop in it's tools if not it's layout, but not too difficult to master and costs £47.99 for ever - free trial, as opposed to Photoshop subscribe for £19.97/month, Try for Free), this programme will be more relevant a bit later on in this saga. I've found this mr decal paper (on ebay - £14.99 for 10 sheets Inkjet/clear, free delivery) to be excellent quality although the above pieces were actually printed on - As you can see - £3 per sheet (I've had it for a while) a quick internet search has it at Amazon £10.99 for 3 sheets A4(ish) (or !!£19.99 at 1001 Hobbies!!). I find, with my printer etc, that the mr decal paper is just a little sharper. In either case you do have to give the paper a couple of coats of varnish/decalcote (I use TESTORS decal bonder because i have some old stock of it) Mr decal paper recommend 'Keen Crystal Clear Spray' but I can't comment on that as yet. The inkjet prints main drawback is how 'thin' they are, the colour isn't strong, anything other than over white... You can get the same paper for both inkjet and Laser printers and also with white background which is great if the background of your decal item is a regular shape, square, rectangle etc but anything curved and especially circular becomes almost an impossibility for trimming, well it does for me, and I'm fairly adept with a scalpel. The prints also seem good at careful application of various setting solutions although I have found overworking with brush or sponge in to awkward overhangs or excessive rivets will rub away the inkjet print. I have also found with laser printing that there seems to be a very slight adjustment of sizing during printing and I have never got to the bottom of that - it may be MY software, both design and print. NOW, it's fairly obvious but I do need to point out that MY printer will not print WHITE which is of course a major obstacle. No domestic printers will print white, it just isn't possible as I'm sure most, if not all of you, are fully aware, and of course why we rely on the aftermarket producers printing in volume with the silkscreen process or specialist one offs with ALPS/OKI printers which are like colour photocopiers, but much more complex, and use specialist inks - including white. There is a very good article by Rob DeBie which can be found at https://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/models/decals.htm I hope this is useful to some of you, I'll be back with more, later with more about designing the artwork and my experiences with print providers. Tony
  24. Hurricane Mk.I Stencils (D72036) 1:72 Eduard This is a small set of decals from Eduard designed for any of the 1/72 Hurricane kits out there and brings you all the stencils you typically see on the aircraft. The decals are printed by Eduard and have good register, sharpness and colour density, with a glossy carrier film printed close to the edges of the printed areas. Conclusion A nice set of decals to bring something additional to your kit. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  25. Hi mates, I would ask if there is any after market decals set who included the St Michael Icon showed on various Russian Flankers in 1/72 or 1/48 scale. To my knowledge, obly the GWH SU-35 in 1/72 scale presents it would ask if there is any after market decals set who includes the St Michael Icon showed on various Russian Flankers in 1/72 or 1/48 scale. To my knowledge, only the GWH SU-35 in 1/72 scale presents it. St Michael icon on Russian SU-35
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