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Hi Chaps, Well I have never managed 2 in a GB before but here I am going for number 3. I'm not sure if I'll finish as I'm on holiday for the start of July and I'm away for work 1 week as well so only really 2 weeks to get this done. Its been to the top of the pile a few times and gone under again but with 3 weeks left its about the only 1 I'm likely to get done before the deadline. This has been in my stash for many years as I thought it was the twin engined one when I bought it and was probably a bit disapointed when it arrived. The other ARBA kit I has was the Gloster Whittle which I built back in 2006 and was a great kit for its time. Special Hobby brought the Whittle out soon after so this will prompt some mainstream guys to produce it. The box, also seen with a picture on the lid. I built the Airfix Bedford MWD last week while deciding whether to start this or a Meteor. Fills the box or would do if it was a smaller box! 6 pieces of resin, 11 bits of pewter and 2 canopies. How hard can it be................! Will make a start this week end. Colin W

I'm considering trying to replicate wheels for an older HEMTT kit I have (the Tanker, which doesn't seem to exist anywhere anymore). I currently have a set of resin ones I'm using on another M977, but these are actually too small in diameter to be entirely correct. Since the DEF wheels I was looking at were both expensive and snapped up almost instantly, I've looked into the possibility of creating moulds of the tyres and hubs from the Italeri M1120, which I also have. I've never done casting before so I'm a little unsure as to the process. I don't really have the ability to buy all of those pressure components and stuff, but I've been looking at this product: http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/inicio/545-silicone-putty-300gr.html Been wondering what would be easy stuff to pour into it, and what the best way to cast these wheels would be. I've considered assembly of the tyres and hubs, then making three moulds for each of the types. Its how to position the wheels in the mould that I'm wondering about. A single piece mould would provide the best result but, trying to get the wheel out again (I considered adding a small stick to create a channel) is something I'm not sure about. A two piece mould could work but, I don't know how I could pour a liquid into both and get a good result ultimately. Any advice on this would be much appreciated Gaz

Hi Chaps Sorry this is a bit of a late start but I have been busy finishing a flying boat thats been on the go for a while. Half my stash will fit into this group build so I may try and do a few. Here is my starter model. I built the Attacker many years ago from Magna resin kit then when the CA kit came out I bought a few to do the various sub models of Attacker. My first was the Supermarine 521 better known as the HP88 which I did in 2007. This model had an interesting life but was eventually sold to Ian of Herritage Aviation and used as a master for his resin kit. I have one of these so might do it as part of the GB if I progress well enough. Here is the 510 in the Chobam Hall at Yeovilton in 2012 My plan is to use a standard Attacker for the main parts but I have found a vacform tail off a Contrial Tu95 in the spares bin which I will use for the wing. Wing sweep etc is about right so its a shame not to use it. I have made a start cutting out the wings and a printed the decals in advance when I made the serials for my last model. Here goes Colin

I did not plan to build this model, I got the kit accidentally and all of a sudden found myself building it The plane was conceived as a fast light bomber and reconnaissance plane. To obtain high speed and good aerodynamics, it was powered by two M-103 inline engines in tandem in a fuselage nose, driving two contra-rotating coaxial three-blade propellers. The design had quite unusual look, with long fuselage nose and a crew cab moved rearwards, towards double tailfin. Wings had a fighter-like form and their span was rather short. The VVIA under Bolkhovitinov was enlarged to tackle the expected problems in the design of the Bolkhovitnov S. The rear engine was geared to two high-speed shafts which passed either side of the forward engine to drive the rear propeller gearbox, whilst the forward engine and gearbox drove the forward propeller via shaft through the middle of the rear propeller gearbox. The structure of the S was predominantly light alloy stressed skin, the wing having two spars with heavy flush-rivetted upper and lower skins, and the fuselage built up from pre-formed upper, lower, and side panels attached to four longerons to give a strong but relatively simple structure to build. A total of 29 electrical actuators drove the Fowler Flaps, undercarriage, (rotating 90deg to lie flat in the wing), exit flap of the large common radiator duct, and many other services. The tail unit consisted of twin fins with rudders attached to the tips of the tailplane, variable geared elevators and separate servo and trim tabs on elevators, and rudders. Detail design of the aircraft began in 1937 and construction in July 1938. The first prototype S-1 was built in 1939, but it was made in order to evaluate an airframe only and therefore was powered by only one engine M-103. It was unarmed and fitted with a fixed skid landing gear. It first flew on January 29, 1940, with B.N. Kudrin at the controls.[1] A maximum speed was 400 km/h. The second prototype S-2 was powered by two engines and was armed with a single machinegun and bombs.[1] Four 100 kg bombs were carried vertically in a bay between pilot and a rear gunner-navigator, under a common canopy. Its state testing started from March 20, 1940, and lasted until July 1940.[1] A maximum speed reached was 570 km/h (354 mph). The plane had good handling, except for take-off and landing, which were difficult due to high wing loading.[1] Its range and speed were also lower than estimated. As a result, it was decided to improve the plane further. However, the plane was not developed in a favour of next Bolkhovitinov designs.[1] It was first planned to build also an attack plane with 2 Ultra-ShKAS machineguns with a high rate of fire, in a rear part of fuselge, firing downwards and manned by a second crew member. Also an interceptor aircraft was proposed, armed with 37 mm recoilless rifle, firing upwards at an angle and manned by two crewmen.[1] The plane had no official designation given. It was mostly known as S - sparka (otherwise explained as spartak, skorost (speed) or Stalin), also known as BBS - blizhniy bombardovshchik skorostnoi (close-range fast bomber), BB - bombardovshchik Bolkhovitinova, LB-S - legkiy bombardovshchik sparka (light bomber paired), SSS - svyerkhskorostnoi samolet (very fast aircraft).[1] More about the prototype,

Finished up the Balatan resin kit of the Lockheed Sirius "Tingmissartoq" for a group build elsewhere on the internet and thought I would share here. Well molded kit, only let down by canopy, misspelled decal and strange looking prop blades. Apologies for the dark photos! Geoff

Finished up the Balatan resin kit of the Lockheed Sirius "Tingmissartoq" for a group build elsewhere on the internet and thought I would share here. Well molded kit, only let down by canopy, misspelled decal and strange looking prop blades. Apologies for the dark photos! Geoff

This ship has caught my imagination,from the very first time,I ever notice it.I had plans always to buy it,only to find that I.H.P models had stopped producing that hull .Anyway,this year they did a small run of the resin hull.The rest,bridge,turrets,funnels ,now could be bought from a 3D company of shapeways,or use a Tamiya Rodney or Nelson instead,far cheaper.The Ships were given no names however,Invincible has come up a couple of times,so that's her name.As for her history, probably would have followed Rodney or Nelson life. Being researching and pictures are very scarce,however there a superb 1/96 model by Alex McFadyen, HMS Anson and this what my Invincible will be based on,Well as close as I can make it.I will put a photo of this model,its just incredible.Could not have done it within it. I have put HMS Nelson beside it to show how much bigger she would have been.These were not what-if ,the Royal Navy had order these ships,but after the Washington Treaty They were cancelled and Nelson and Rodney were built instead.more history on links below. Link on History on Nelson https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nelson-class_battleship Link on G3 battlecruiser https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G3_battlecruiser The Hull as it comes,sitting beside Nelson. Dry fitted bridge and turrets.Funnels came from a resin kit,I bought HMS Furious without the hull ,it was cheap and it came with 4 funnels ,knew they would come in handy one day.Will add plenty of detail,hatches,pipes,doors,ladders and anything else ,I can find.The date for my Invincible will late 1939 or very late war in Pacific colours ,probably had been through at least three refits and will more poms poms and 20 mm bofors fitted,away that will come to light once the other parts arrive and see how they fit.

This arrived from Muroc Models the other day and thought that if you was thinking of ordering you might like to see what you get. The parts are well formed and the intake lip is really sharp with no breakage and both conversion contain vacform front canopies and comprehensive instructions. The sets are for the Academy kit. Great service and reasonable priced. Robert

I understand that stuff like an ejection seat will have to be cut off the casting block using a saw or a Dremmel of sorts, but can thinner parts like headrest , control sticks etc be cut off using sprue cutters?? Then cleaned up with a file.

As the heading refers; I am trying to find out if all CA/superglues are the same and as good as each other, or if there are particular types to get or avoid. I like to do scratchbuilding and recently I have started to cast some parts in resin, which then need additional pieces of styrene sheet or rod being attached to continue the build. These pieces are quite small, the rod and sheets tend to be around 10 thou (0.25mm) thick and therefore can be too small for two-part epoxies and suchlike. The problem I am currently finding is that the gluing of the plastic to the resin can be hit and miss. Once day everything sticks instantly but another day the piece will separate after a few hours just by the slightest catch with the tweezers etc. I do clean both pieces and sometime abrade both the resin and the plastic pieces before adhering them. Mike

Aircraft in Miniature is currebtly designing a AEC Mandator, Blue Steel Transporter, 1/72nd 1/144th (and 1/48th?) resin kit for release in 2015. Source: http://www.aim72.co.uk/page130.html V.P.

In Archangelsky PS-35 (ANT-35) that first flew in September 1936 was a Soviet attempt of creating modern high speed airliner. Designed and built in Tupolev bureau it was, however, inferiour to Douglas DC-3 for which Soviet Union bought a license, therefore only a dozen was built. Production planes were used on Aeroflot international flights to Stockholm and Prague History and pics (in Russan) http://www.airwar.ru/enc/cw1/ps35.html http://www.tupolev.ru/ant-35-ps-35 "Flight", November 1936 https://www.flightglobal.com/pdfarchive/view/1936/1936 - 3203.html The box is opened:

Hi guys, I've been working for the last few months on and off with these resin kits. I thought I would get them finished off for the Halloween season. I hope to get them finished by this Saturday, they are my first attempt at painting figure models with flesh tones and also my first attempt at painting eyes. I used a cocktail stick to paint the eyes in and the details around them. I've just given the models a lacquer gloss coat to seal the work that I have already done and I shall be adding some fine details tomorrow and then giving the model a dull coat apart from the eyes and the lips which I will leave in a gloss finish. To be continued.

Source: http://www.britmodel...mp;#entry847702 Speak for itself. Thanks Ozh! V.P.

Greetings everyone I am almost done with my Lazarev build and I had a really hard choice of what to build next: 1/48 SU-33, 1/48 Viggen, 1/72 TU-22 Blinder, 1/72 TU-160 Blackjack or 1/144 AN-22. Instead, the 1/72 VC-10 won out because of my recent experience with the Anigrand C-5 Galaxy. I thoroughly enjoyed making that, so I pulled this one out ready to go Upon taking photos and an earlier exploration, I realised that this one is vastly different. It's no where near as good as the C-5 in terms of fit but the quality of the casting itself is brilliant. Very few bubbles and the ones that are there will never be seen Now, no one can ever say that I wasn't warned about the challenges of building an Anigrand kit! This one will certainly have it's own ......issues to fix, as you will see in the below photos. I've only shown some of them - not all as I am sure I haven't found them all yet. Good news is that they are all relatively minor and are fixable! So, what do you get for your $260AU kit? Quite a bit of resin that's for sure but disappointingly, you don't get any bonus smaller kits. Which is a shame but not the end of the world I will be using the 26 Decals for the 90th Anniversary scheme (VX-105) - the most attractive in my eyes. The only thing I am not happy about with the decals is that the black tail is literally a decal - I don't have the option to just paint the tail - which I find annoying. I just want the fancy logo and writing. I can paint black all on my lonesome thanks... However, no one else to my knowledge produces said decals in 72nd, so I shall make do. I have done a lot of internet searches for this kit and I have found only 3 of note - 2 of which allude to cutting the cockpit. Initially, I just thought that to be a bit...anal retentive, however, upon dry fitting the canopy - I can now see why said cuts are made - and it's not just to conform to a drawing. The fit of the canopy is f....well, let's just say it's never going to be a "perfect fit". In fact, it does it's very best to not fit at all. But again, it should be fixable. I am going to try and fix it without having to cut up the body. So, enough talking, here are some pre-build photos to see what you get: not the smoothest joint ever: Some slight warping presumably making a not quite all together mating of the rear body halves: the front end isn't much better: the canopy fitting - or not as the case maybe: the only air bubbles I found: With the wings joined up, there is a distinctive step left on the leading edges - I forsee some major sanding coming up.... And last but not least, a shot of Anigrand's incredibly comprehensive instructions: I will be making this one in-flight, so will not have to think up a way to display it on a stand of sorts. This should be fun! I will be back later once i make a solid start on this. If you have any ideas or experiences with this kit, I would love to hear it Till next time! Simon

Good morning! The postman dropped off the photo-etch pieces this morning so I thought I might as well start So, the base kit will be the old Airfix 1:72 Avro Vulcan, with aftermarket bits including: -Freightdog Resin 201 Series Tailpipes -White Ensign Models (WEM) Vulcan Interior -WEM Vulcan Exterior -WEM Vulcan Bomb Bay This build will be significant for two reasons; first of all, with AS exams starting in two weeks and proceeding over the next couple of months, it will be something to keep me sane! Secondly, it will be the first build where I've already had a go at doing some build-enhancing techniques before and needless to say I shall attempt to use these on this build, these include: using filler to get rid of those nasty gaps, using a scribing tool (Tamiya) to replace the notorious raised panel lines, working with resin aftermarket pieces and finally working with photoetch (I might have thrown myself into the deep end with this one!) XL360 is my second nearest Vulcan, the closest being Cosford, I have chosen this one because it's preserved (and has served) as a 617 "Dambusters" aircraft, I have also had the pleasure of sitting in the rear cockpit of the aircraft- I therefore have quite a bit of reference material to hand and finally because, unlike the shiny Cosford example, the Coventry Vulcan allows me to have a shot at weathering. Pre-build photos: Well, more updates shall follow in due course, don't expect them to be too frequent, unfortunately revision must take precedence over the next few weeks. Kind regards, Sam

I will not talk too much,just to say brilliant kits,I will put a link for the review.I have been at this kit since Sept,came with me on Holiday,were all the hatches and extra detail has been added.

Good afternoon. This is my first ever WIP post! And it will be about this thing!: The Renault AM 1914 armoured car of which its history can be found here. The kit is a resin kit from danmodels and comes in a sturdy cardboard box containing some 106 (or there abouts) well-cast resin parts, 16 PE parts and some brass rods of 2 different diameters. There are a few issues with the casting but as this is (I believe to be) the first kit from danmodels, I can safely say that the kit looks great. The parts: The photo was taken before I declared war on the excess resin, a long and hard fought war in which I emerged victorious! Wish me luck!

Scratcharonautics (https://www.facebook.com/Scratchaeronautics/?fref=nf) has just released a 1/144th Boeing P-8 Poseidon resin kit Available here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BOEING-P-8-POSEIDON-1-144-SCALE-POLYURETHANE-RESIN-KIT-/252498106728?#ht_566wt_1271 V.P.

Hi all, I'm am searching for resin replacement jet nozzles for my F-100s. I want the F-102 but can't see them available anywhere. Maybe they aren't? Does anyone out there know? Thanks. Martin

IMA have got a load of British "goodies" on their website including the A30 Challenger and Avenger along with several armoured cars and light tanks. They also have the 15.5" tracks and drive sprockets as a separate item. http://www.imaco.com.hk/kits/ John.

Can I join in with this? Even if it is going to be in RN colours, probably a 771 Squadron bird, based at Culdrose in the early 1980's, It's an absolute challenge for me. Everything I would rather avoid: resin, vac formed transparencies, limited run (and boy oh boy does it look limited run), the need to use cyanoacrylate (lots of glued fingers but parts falling off) and masking windows and the cheat line. Apart from that a straightforward build.

The new product presents full-open nozzles, as we can see on real aircraft shut down engines. The nozzles have correct scale size and fit 1/48 Hobby Boss Su-27 family. There are molded parts as is. The same parts painted to accent details. Nozzle on 1/48 Hobby Boss Su-27. The set will be available in a week.

Flight engineering has designed an impressive 1/48th engine nacelles upgrade set for the old Revellogram Boeing B-29 Superfortress kit. Source: http://www.flightlineengineering.com/b29-kit.html V.P.

I have some massive plans for this GB so let's get started with RusAir Tu-104B offering This seems to be an easy way to put a replica of iconic soviet airliner on your shelf comparing to AModel Indeed - put together 6 parts and the plane is almost ready