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  1. Hello everybody This will be a build of a Revell issue of Matchbox's DH Venom kit - there are two of these kits in the GB, @bigbadbadge is also building one (link). Hopefully, this one will be an Australian example ... The box has seen better days: The plastic looks sound The instructions and decals have gone AWOL ... Fortunately, Scalemates have a scan of the instructions, so taking a look at those shouldn't be too hard. The decals ... just before New Year, I ordered some decals. They are shipping from Aus, but I hope they'll be here by the end of the month
  2. So, finished at last. A pleasant build, love this aircraft. The only thong i'm not really satisfied with is the mud splashes. Should have been smaller specks, but I might give it another go or two. Happy modelling! /Torbjörn
  3. Evening all, This has been a real labour of love, I bought this kit on the 16th Aug 2003 from OTW designs, as it would happen life got in the way and coupled with a slightly warped hull I popped the build to one side and forgot about it. I spied the hull 82.7 inches of it in the loft and decided to have ago again. After years of storage and a few moves thrown in she suffered some slight damage to the brass work. I've repaired most of the broken bits and cleaned up some of the decking as after 11 years its tarnished a bit ... Link to Bob Dimmacks company who make the semi kit. http://www.otwdesigns.com/ The conning tower is a fibreglass molding with a PE deck, all the fitting are either accurate armour or scratch built. More to follow when it's light outside, the hull is 7ft long so quite difficult to get a good picture of. Dan
  4. Hi everyone, it's Hornet Groupbuild time! I'm a big fan of the F-18 in its various guises, but an STGB calls for something special, right? This is a great scheme for the Super Bug, all the more for being really clean https://www.seaforces.org/usnair/VFA/VFA-154_DAT/VFA-154-Black-Knights-086.jpg (link to seaforces.org) The hi-viz, multi-coloured markings, glossy black spine and red cheatlines are really cool. Even better, this is the box art and main decal scheme in the Revell Super Bug kit. The 1/32 version is big, brash and a lot of hard work to be honest Lots in the very big box - the beautiful decal sheet which would set you back a good £15-20 if it was aftermarket. If it's anything like the previous issue, these decals will be superb. Very thick, well-produced A4 instruction booklet running to over 20 pages. The new Revell instruction style is a gigantic improvement over their previous efforts. The only aftermarket I'm using is the MasterCasters SJU-17 seats. Even these might be a bit of overkill as I plan to have pilots in the seats with the aircraft posed in flight. There's a nice selection of ordnance, which looks accurate and pretty well detailed. I might mix up the underwing load a bit with maybe goofy tanks and JSOWs, but who knows at this stage? Thanks to a spoilt canopy in the original kit issue, I ended up with three, courtesy of the retailer (Jumblies Models) and Revell's efficient spare parts dept. I'll be using the spoilt copy as a mask for painting. The original Revell 1/32 Superbug (F/A-18E) has a dire reputation which appears to be driven by an unfavourable early build review on Big'n'Tall Airplanes. In my opinion the reviewer have up far too easily and seems to have expected Lego-like fit for a Revell price. I built the last one in two weeks during the 2020 lockdown and although it certainly had its challenges, most of it fit well, especially the one-piece top section, which is a huge piece of plastic. As you can see from the paint pot, this is a BIG kit when finished! This time around will definitely take a lot longer to build due to my crazy work schedule this winter (we have five possible daily shifts now operating 24H 0600-0600!) All the best with your builds folks! Alan
  5. This is my Revell rebox of the Dragon 1/32 Messerschmitt Bf110. I started this last July and wanted to do the best I could with it as I really like this aircraft it's a very good looking plane. I spent almost seven months building it which includes possibly a month on its own just for painting. The model went together well with a few minor issues that were easily fixed around the wing root. The paints are Mr Colour and Tamiya I mixed various shades to get the desired colour for the camouflage. I the ccolours went over a black base which was then protected with klear floor polish and I then used flory models sand and black washes as I wanted the aircraft to have a dusty used ans battered appearance. Once that was sealed in I used AK pigments Sienna which helped add to the dusty conditions of North Africa. I also dusted the pigments over the canopy as the glass was far too clear and although absolutely brilliant was too clear and clean. I sealed the pigments in with more klear twice more to get more dust onto the surfaces and canopy. I did the same with the figures. I am yet to get accomplished at figure painting but I am satisfied with the clothing and highlighted details with washes etc. I used a drill to create the battle damage which enabled me to show off one engine. I added lead wire into the destroyed engine to add more detail as it'sa.really nice feature on the kit. The base was a £5 cork board from Tesco with cheap pollyfilla (filler for dry wall) and some foam underneath so that there was a bit of depth to the base I wanted the emergency landing to be a split second from catastrophe but they stopped just in time. I did add dents to the nose as well as I wanted it to appear as though stones etc had been kicked up by the crash landing and caused damage. Anyway I am so happy to call this finished and happy with the result. Enjoy the photos and all comments welcome. I couldn't do anything about the back ground as it's a small room but the sunlight lent itself very well for the scene I have here.
  6. Hi all - I had this kit in my stash for some time but when I saw Simon Dyer's build in 79 Squadron markings I was inspired to get it built - I always wanted to finish it in the 79 Squadron scheme & had the same decal sheet for XG228 - I did some research on the internet and found some colour photos of these aircraft at RAF Brawdy & with a bit of fiddling with decaI sheets was able to turn it out as XG160 tail number 22 - a bit of a nostalgia trip as our family lived in nearby Solva when my dad was posted as a CPO to Brawdy in the late 1950's - it was in the Navy's hands as the FAA's base for Hawker Seahawk fighters back then & very interesting for young boys. The model is basically from the box apart from the True Details resin cockpit set which after some minor fettling fitted remarkably well. I borrowed David Mooney's idea of using 2mm x 1mm micro magnets to attach the outer pylon stores so I can alternate the fuel tanks or rocket pods if I ever get the urge - this is his F4D link https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235100540-132-f-4d-spook-on-a-spook/#comment-4225499 The Revell kit decals were showing their age and the yellow stencil were translucent when applied but I found an alternatIve set of 1/32 Hawker Hunter stencils made by DEKL'S in South Australia and these went on quite well. I tried but could not get a good result dry brushing the moulded on instrument dials so replaced them with AirScale decals The green hose on the Ejection Seat is a bit of guitar string I only did some light smearing on the belly with Tamiya weathering colour and highlighted some panel line with a sharp 2H pencil CJP
  7. Hello fellows, Here my P47-D Thunderbolt, "2 big and Too Heavy", finished. A wonderful kit from Trumpeter; the only drawaback was that the engine was impossible to fit in the cowling, as I explained in the WIP thread. I hope you like the fotos, as much I enjoyed building and painting this wonderful "jug". Your comments will be welcome... And here, the link to my WIP: Thanks for looking!
  8. This project has come about almost by default. When I completed the 1/32 de Haviland 1A scratch build : I put it in a purpose made perspex display box, only to find that I had made a measurement error and the box is only just big enough to hold the model! I bought a second larger box for the de Haviland and now have a spare box. What to put into it? The box restricts the size of the subject: I had thought of an RE 5 or RE 7 but both of these are too large to fit. Other smaller subjects either do not interest me, are available as kits or are going to be released in the future, so they were all crossed off the list. Then the idea came to me to build a Royal Aircraft Factory BE 2a, (the predecessor of the better known BE 2c), as this was my first "free-lance" conversion (ie. I did not use an article but built it myself using the Airfix DH 4 as a donor kit for the wings, wheels, prop and struts), and it is very unlikely that a kit manufacturer is going to issue one at any time soon. This is the model I built in 1978: When I made the above model I had originally wanted to build a BE 2c but detailed sources were limited and I could not find any drawings of the type. Therefore I built the BE 2a because I had a copy of Profile No 133: Building a model of an aeroplane in 1/32 scale means that a great deal more information is needed. Fortunately DataFile No 163 provides excellent 1/48 scale drawings and many photographs: There are also many photographs of replica machines at Point Cook in Australia and Montrose in Scotland, and there is a replica BE 2b in the RAF Museum at Hendon. Recently this fine volume has appeared on the type: This book is a mine of information on the type and a go-to source for information: there is a review in Cher Ami vol. 10 no 1. There was only one outstanding problem: I could not find enough information on the 70 hp Renault engine dimensions to be able to scratch build one, (there are no kits of this type available in this scale). In the meantime I continued with other True Scale projects until I had a breakthrough via RichieW of ww1aircraftmodels.com. He is scratch building a 1/32 BE 2c and has to make a 100 hp RAF 1A engine. He was discussing how to make the cylinders on that website when "Rookie" gave him the engine sprue of the WingnutWings RE 8 which had an RAF 4A engine. The RAF 4A engine was a 12 cylinder V which had been developed from the 8 cylinder RAF 1A. The latter was an upgraded version of the Renault 70 hp and as Richie only needed 8 cylinders for his model that left two spare cylinders which he kindly passed over to me. I now had a potential solution to my biggest problem - how to scratch the 70 hp Renault engine - because I could now calculate the critical dimensions and had sufficient information about specific details to make an attempt. If I can build the engine, I can build the remainder of the model. I intend to use as little aftermarket material as possible on this build, so I will only show it if I use any. Apart from the engine the other part that I was concerned about making was the 4 bladed propellor. I have made 2 bladed props in 1/32 scale, and 2 and 4 bladed props in the True Scale, but this would be my first 4 bladed prop in 1/32 so I started with this. I have a supply of hardwood strip, (I do not know what the wood is - I inherited it from my father many years ago), which I use to carve RFC and RNAS props. I cut two long strips and 4 shorter ones: The long strips were glued to make a cross and the 4 shorter pieces then glued to each of the 4 arms with Evostick wood glue to give me the correct thickness of wood to carve. This was pressed for 24 hours in my state-of-the-art press (a pile of books): The shape of the blades was drawn on to the surface of the cross and arrows drawn to indicate which way the blades needed to be filed: The shape of the individual blades and boss were cut and filed first. This ensures that each blade is the correct shape and size when looked at head-on. The next step was to shape one of the blades: this was done with files only - it is too easy to slip when using a knife and the wood does not always cut smoothly, so an accident is possible and much time and effort can be wasted in a second if a mishap occurs. Filing may take longer but errors are much less likely. The arrows indicated the slope of the blade face - each one has to be identical to its neighbour and mistakes can be easily made here too. Final shaping and smoothing was done with glass paper: The quantity of dust that filing and sanding one blade is shown here: This is the finished propellor waiting to be varnished: I will use a resin boss from Proper Plane, (an aftermarket product), as this will be in a very prominent position on the model and for once I am taking the quickest route! I will post more on the engine later because at present it consists of a lump of laminated plastic waiting to be filed to shape. Thanks for looking. p
  9. I started this 1/32 Hornby kit earlier in the year as part of the Africa GB. Unfortunately I subsequently had to withdraw it, when I realised that I couldn't pull together the necessary Safari Rally decals (here's a link to my build thread). Currently the car looks like this, with just the body shell needing to be painted and decalled. I'll be using the kit's Swedish Rally decals and will be making a start just as soon as my French Fancy and High Wing builds are finished. Cheers
  10. Hallo WNW Information on this kit This is my second WW1 bomber in 1/32. The AEG was my first. Considering all my 1/32 builds from WNW I did, so this one caused me some more headache as I was used. The building process showed me, that there are some issues where I think the designer of the kit was absent. The cooling pipes running from the engine to the cooler at the front strut are wrong in transverse distance. You must cut them, otherwise the strut would crack. The other thing is many important details are not shown at all in the instructions. Instead of this the guns are shown multiple times. The pivot point of the rudder is such an item. On the other hand the outer struts. They have cables running vertically twice, in the front and rear. What for? There is no explanation in the instruction. For lighting or Bowden cables. If the latter, then for assembly or disassembly the wing. If you decide to make such a model, be sure that you are firm with all rigging techniques required. I did it, as you can find on my threats. Already posted couple of times. Well, the next time will be a modelling break for one month. Since I will be engaged with my digital model railway in H0, where most locomotives are upgraded with sound. Some programing is needed and some mapping of functions too. Happy modelling Happy New Year 2022
  11. I have to admit when I started this build in September I didn’t think I would have it finished by the end of the year. Not because the kit is a hard build but because I am normally a slow builder, this is my first 32nd scale kit and I was intending trying some new techniques. The kit is the Hasegawa Ju 87-G built as a G2 W.Nr. 494221 of 10/SG2 Using EagleCal decals. The cockpit was enhanced using Eduard PE, scratch built details, HG seatbelts and brass gun barrels. The 37mm canons also got some details and alu barrels. For painting I used a combination of Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics with the odd Humbrol enamel thrown in. The full build is detailed in the WIP section “Building a Kanonen Vogel” if anyone is interested with more pictures of the cockpit and other bits. Anyway here are the pictures, I hope you like it and thanks for looking. Thanks for looking and best wishes for 2022.
  12. Welcome to anyone interested in following this. After completing the first in the line, the 1/48 Special Hobby Ju 87-A, I have been itching to build the last of the line. Just for completeness, of course. But this time I thought I would do something a bit different and go for 1/32 scale instead of my normal 1/48. It will give me a chance to try out some detailing and challenge my painting skills to produce something that does not look like a toy! The base for this build will be the Hasegawa kit. This has been sitting in the stash for some time as it is the one with the figure of Rudel and his dog but I don't think I will be tackling them this time round. At the moment I can't decide if this will be a G1 or a G2 so I will start on the generic parts of the build while the gears turn and I make my mind up. The difference, for any not aware, was the G1 was based on converted D3 airframes and the G2 were factory remanufactured airframes based on the extended wing D5, about 174 airframes in total. The G1 may be a little more interesting as they retained many of the attributes of the dive bombers they were converted from but... Anyway here is the progress so far. Test fit looks good but the spinner looks a little odd. Will have to look into that. Control surfaces separated. 37mm cannon built and detailed. I used wire for the compressed air, and electrical connections. Replacement barrels are from Master in Poland and are absolutely beautiful! Cockpit will be next and I have a PE set from Eduard to help a bit with this. Oh, I also opened up the underwing radiators to add a bit more life. Replacement exit flaps were made from the foil from the top of a wine bottle and looks a lot more to scale. That's it for now before I bore anyone still reading this. Hopefully I can get a bit more work done this week and will post an update. Thanks for having a look.
  13. Morning all, This is another fugitive from the recent Phantom STGB, to go with the parade of Phantoms we've had this month! As everybody knows, you can't have too many Phantoms This is the (in)famous Tamiya 1/32 kit from 2001(?) It's okay but nowhere near modern day Tamiya in terms of fit or accuracy. Its weaknesses are well known and documented but I haven't corrected anything, so weird patches, wrong dihedral, misshapen rear fuselage and grossly undersized nozzles are all there. I used Eduard interior set to improve the cockpit, seats and canopies, which would be otherwise completely devoid of detail. The surface details are good, and the smaller components fit beautifully. Pretty much everything else needed filler and the top wing joint with the fuselage is actually held together with masking tape, as there's literally no contact with the fuselage Now the good bits... paint used was MRP Israeli FS colours and boy, are those good paints! Used AK Gauzy Intermediate as a gloss coat and Xtracrylix Flat to finish. Decals were a mix of Warbird stencils and Sky's Decal for the insignia and squadron markings/serial numbers. They all behaved beautifully despite numbering into the hundreds. The aircraft represented is Kurnass 116 of Squadron 201 'The One'. It is based on a documented mission flown on 12 October 1973 to strike Damascus Airport, codenamed RAM. The four-ship strike package (Panther flight) all carried mixed bombloads: three with five Mk117s and three Mk83s, and one with 5xMk117s and three CBU-54 cluster munitions. The resin bombs came from Videoaviation in Italy and they are very highly recommended! The aircraft also carries two Deker (AIM-9D Sidewinder) and two Lavid (AIM-7E Sparrow). 116 confirmed one MiG-21 kill with a Lavid during this mission after Panther flight was bounced by two flights of four MiG-21s egressing the target area. Overall this was not the easy build I was expecting. 2001 Tamiya (the original mould was mid-90s) is not 2021 Tamiya! I really pity anyone who paid the eye-watering £125 RRP for this kit as it's barely better than the Revell kit which retailed at about £45. But you pays your money, etc! It still builds up into this huge and impressive result. As you can see from the bits in the background, this is a very big model! Anyway... It's finished! If you like Phantoms, go and give the STGB some love, I don't think I've seen such a high standard in a group build, which is amazing considering it's time-limited. This build thread is here, in case you're interested in the triumphs and failings of both kit and modeller! Cheers Alan
  14. I wasn't going to buy this kit, as I had already built the perfectly serviceable Hasegawa 1/32 J2M3 early last year and had been very pleased with how it turned out. However earlier this year I bought the Zoukei Mura Kawasaki Ki-45 Toryu kit and was somewhere between very impressed and completely blown away by the contents of that kit, to the point that I decided I needed* to get the Raiden kit as well. The prices for these kits are pretty steep from the outset, about equivalent to a Wingnut Wings kit, but in fairness the quality of the mouldings, instruction manual and presentation/packaging is about equal to WNW's products. A further point regarding the prices - these do vary significantly between stockists, I got mine from Tiger Hobbies and it was over £40 cheaper than the most expensive Z-M J2M3 kit I found on the internet (I don't have any affiliation with Tiger Hobbies, nor any connection except as a customer). Anyway, here are the constituent parts: Box - very sturdy, lovely box-art: Instruction book - yes, book: This is very impressive, as well as very nicely drawn instructions it has lots of photographs of the parts and how they look when they go together. The drawings are in black and white, the photos in colour, as is the painting and decal guide. Paint callouts are all for Vallejo but if you don't know what colours from your own favourite range you should be using, Nick Millman's Aviation of Japan blog has a .pdf available of colour notes for the Raiden, advertised in the right-hand margin about halfway down - for £6.50 it is worth every penny even if you only intend to build one Raiden. Here is a page of the painting and markings guide: The decal sheet and masking set included in the kit: The masks seem to be made of a very thin vinyl, I'll see how I get on with them, though I might not need to, since as well as the usual clear parts: ... in a little side compartment of the box are these: ... an incredibly thin canopy frame set plus equally thin glazing for the frames. I will definitely give these a go, but they look so fragile I am glad to have the standard clear parts as a back-up if in case I break them. Now on to the other parts, Sprue A, mostly engine parts: Sprue B, propeller, exhausts, fuel tanks, tyres and guns: Sprue C, fuselage interior parts: Sprue D, wingspar, undercarriage parts and a few more engine bits: Sprue E, fuselage exterior, rudder and landing gear covers: Sprue F, fuselage underside, stabilisers and elevators, auxillary fuel tank, more engine parts: Sprue G, upper and lower wings: ... and finally, Sprue H, ailerons and gunbay covers: So, although comparisons are odious, in this case for me they are unavoidable, it is inferior to the Hasegawa kit in that it does not include a pilot figure (and the Hasegawa one is excellent, if you have any interest in using pilot figures in your builds) and apparently equal in respect of the markings, as both kits offer exactly the same choices, although the Z-M kit also gives a set of spare numbers so that in theory you could make any of the aircraft that flew with the 302 Naval Air Group if you have suitable references. That's a little annoying, a greater selection or at least a couple of different options would have been nice, as there is very little in the way of aftermarket decals for the Raiden, but onto every life a little rain must fall and I shall build the version flown by Lt (JG) Yoshihiro Aoki, the famous one with the lightning bolts. As for the kit parts, there are probably about twice as many as those provided for the Hasegawa kit and they are easily as beautifully moulded if not more so, if the buildability is about equal I shall be very happy indeed. The level of detail is phenomenal and perhaps ultimately pointless if you prefer the painting stage and don't actually enjoy the assembly of a kit that much - I think I do enjoy that part equally, this should prove it to me one way or the other. I'll sort out my paints and get cracking shortly... Cheers, Stew * ... and when I say 'needed' of course I mean 'wanted'
  15. Hallo Does anyone have experience with wire wheels ore spoked wheels such wheels of early WW1 aircraft? Like a bicycle. There are options, like in WNW kits. Until now I worked with covered wheels. As most of WW1 aircraft have. The etched parts, which should be formed to a cone, do not get easily bend conform. Any other method available? Thanks in forward Happy modelling
  16. Hallo This is my attempt of getting the paint scheme of the Halberstadt CL.II right done. The photos from the original in the museum in Krakow I use as a guideline. The proposal from WNW is spraying with reduced air pressure. So you create a circular pattern, instead of an irregular pattern. Since the cowling is missing, I think to do it in analogy to the Fokker E1 with aluminum coat and the pattern as shown. I am not sure, but in the web I found nothing to relay on. Archive photos and the original in Krakow are my only holdings. Anyway the model is complete with all the interior. The instruction is as usual in WNW. Some errors in numbering, corrected on their website. The steps of assembling sometimes impossible, but since I know the models and their mistakes I get along. Well so far, any suggestions? Happy modelling
  17. I recently finished a Tamiya F-4E Phantom for the STGB as an Israeli Kurnass from 1973. It's the only timeframe you can get away with using that kit. I enjoyed the experience and had lots of paint and decals left over for another one, but wanted to build a Kurnass 2000 as an update. For this you need the Revell kit as the Tamiya is very limited to Vietnam era. These are getting scarce and command silly prices on eBay et al. So I was very pleased to see Academy were reboxing it. Unfortunately it was advertised as a Vietnam boxing, and featured the same hard wing configuration on the box art Well I got one anyway, and very pleased to note it has both hard and slatted wing options, along with an excellent additional sprue containing strike cameras, TISEO, dorsal avionics bump and the datalink pod for early PGMs. This makes it suitable for pretty much any era and more than makes the price worth it for the Revell plastic, and a huge decal sheet with many options including US, Korean and Japanese subjects. I'll post some pics when I can organise all the photo hosting malarkey. Alan
  18. The most advanced fighter jet in the world - the Israeli Air Force F-35I Adir (which means Mighty One!) The F-35 is my favourite aircraft currently in existence - I bought this kit shortly after its appearance and have been waiting for an opportunity to crack into a decent build. The time has come! You don't see many of these so here's the full box tour: First of all - it's very big! that's an 18" wide mat the fuse halves are sitting on. There's some nice surface detail around the panels but the rest of the airframe is creamy smooth! Interior detail doesn't slouch either: Engine and full intake trunking with thinly cast guide vanes and engine detail - this will not be visible, of course There are two sprues of weapons, bay details and door hinges: The pylons are also included for Beast Mode, which I will of course be using! Again some nicely moulded details with a bit of flash clean up required. More interior: Weapons bays, doors and wheelwell interiors, no need for aftermarket here. While the details aren't superfine, they are interesting enough and should come up well under paint and washes. The stabilizers are much better engineered than the Kitty Hawk version (thank god!!) as are the tailfins below: Again the wings have some decent moulded details with a very smooth finish everywhere else. Clear parts are tinted and the canopy is seam free: Some PE parts are included along with some glossy masks for the RAM panel taping: Won't be needing those so much for painting but the taped areas are distinctly flatter in finish than the baked-on RAM coating. Instructions are clear and well-printed on an A4-sized landscape booklet: Decals are also nicely printed, include most stencils and knowing Italeri's recent releases, should go down very well. So that's what's in the box. Of course I had to get a few more bits to push the boat out a bit more...! Eduard Big Ed, not particularly expensive or overstuffed with details, but the cockpit looks very nice, if it was the right colour Also have a set of new resin wheels by Reskit and Eduard Brassin GBU-39 SDBs (new capability for the IAF's F-35s) Unfortunately I also spent a relative fortune (almost £30!) on these very disappointing decals - only stencils and serials for 140 Golden Eagles Sqn. I hoped it would have both squadrons included but astonishingly IsraDecal released the 116 Lions of the South Sqn set as a separate set for the same price. I was hoping to do the aircraft flown by 116 Sqn's deputy CO, 'Captain S.' (the only woman currently flying the F-35I): but they can get stuffed if they want another £30 out of me for the 4x lion decals alone Anyway...I'll be building this over a period of months, so it's a long-term project for me. While I know the aircraft isn't everyone's cup of tea, it certainly is mine and you're welcome to join in the fun! Cheers Alan
  19. Hi all. This I purchased this kit a couple of years ago at Telford when I had an idea of building a NI fit cab. As usual with my builds I build memories, having done 3 tours in Ulster starting in the 80’s these along with the Wessex are pinned in my memory. Moving on I wanted the boxing that had the PIP filters and the tiger meet boxing it was. The kit itself was obviously a design of the day so moaning is fruitless although the quality of the clear part is shocking and I feel I definitely got the Friday version. I wanted to add a bit of detail to the kit as I think for the pose I had in mind, too much would be on show. My original idea was a flyer with the 3 undercarriage legs lowered, a gun mounted and a Santa Clause in the other door. Alas I couldn’t find a suitable candidate so another option was chosen. Plan B was a 14 Int photographer hanging in the door way and I found a 3D printed figure on the bay in 1/32 scale. So the build pressed on and through research and advice from guys on here and on PPrune I modelled this cab of 1563 Flt which was part of 33 Sqn from Oct 94 and just prior to the application of the 2 tone green. The MRB are actually straight as the look slightly drooped in these photos. The whole disc is removable but the kit is mounted on the pole. The nose antenna were replaced with 0.28mm rod and looks quite well in this scale. Anyway I’m rubbish at photography but I took advantage of today’s sunshine and here we go. Build log is here 869E6AB0-A3D5-4738-8816-7ECCFAA46188 F74CCD14-2E19-46C9-9B44-4C515994B3F0 BF416798-7E39-4113-A388-F43D837EC97C 51852B87-275F-4B27-AC04-ED865CCE3436 7BD2D1F6-4D07-4739-8190-DF9332194839 B8AB78AB-D2FA-445A-9EAE-428FF4C9E3FE 5ECB3F9C-CF20-484D-A09A-6DF948084B91 4578ABA0-39B6-4EEA-8EA2-0E5C01394CA8 B907009A-F66D-4C72-A1D4-A9E64DEED7E3 6FFBCCD2-2008-49ED-88D1-B3D33AF877F2 6586A696-8DB6-47DE-9D88-7C2307470AF5 45E17CA2-DDD1-44D8-8309-6000ABB4C7D5 23B776BC-29C3-4A6B-9818-750FEE686E79 AA6E6796-6082-41E1-B64D-546DD06AF658 8397A977-8C37-4E69-A794-4874792698B3 5ECB3F9C-CF20-484D-A09A-6DF948084B91 My thanks go to Pete in Lins, Jabba, Rickoshea52, Benbow, tarlucan, Sammy da fish. I’m sorry if I’ve missed you out but it’s been a great example of everyone chipping in. I’m calling this one done and I’ll have a break before starting the next project. Thanks for watching, Steve.
  20. Back in 1974 I attended an IPMS AGM at the RAF Museum in Hendon. There I bought the then new Revell 1/32 Beaufighter, made a desultory start and left it in its box...until now! This is the kit, laid out in all its glory... Notice the lack of decals... oh well, that means an after market set. As this kit has non dihedral tailplanes choice is limited, but I've ordered a sheet from Techmodel, and will do one from 307 Squadron RAF, Winter 1943 in the overall grey with dark green disruptive pattern on the upper surfaces. I couldn't face such a massive black model! There is a review of the kit from 2014 here: My initial impression is of a very simple kit, with limited detail and some major design simplifications, for example the wheel well liners are set so shallow that it would be impossible for the wheels to retract! There are some errors in the interior details, for example built from the box the radar operator would be unable to exit his position. As re-loading the 4 cannon was a part of his work on the early Beaus that represents a bit of a problem. More photos to follow: this will be mostly a "Build from the Box" with a few corrections and additions.
  21. So in my ItPsv 90 build thread I mumbled about possibly going for multiple entries in this group build, and as I hoped something did show up in the mail a little while ago. Now I do seem to be a pretty quick builder overall, but being my first 1/32 kit ever and clearly being a Project™ of the likes I haven't been involved with with since I built Revell's Vasa (including hand painting every nail head along the hull sides) I haven't really got a clue if it'll be done by Christmas or not. Oh well, if not I'll just have to do the jaunt of limited glory over to the regular WIP board (where we already have a build ongoing, saving me from being the first to walk into the potential minefield of this kit). Building basically only 1/72 and 1/700, this is one massive bird. Just over twice the size of a 1/72 one, imagine that... The box had clearly not been treated very gently in transport, but looking through things it seems the onyl damage suffered was possibly a bit to the tow bar (which I have no itnent of using anyway) and the apparently customary broken wingtip. A clean break luckily, and I found the missing piece in the box, so easy enough to just glue back on. As per my own habit I started out with the ordnance. The gas tank halves appeared to have flattened a bit from perfectly round, and unfortunately 90° out of phase with each other. Matched up on one side the called for a good bit of putty on the other. No retail nearby so puttying and sanding could be done with impunity. The 3D printed fins got a quick bit of sanding to remove the layering texture before being glued on. Next, missiles. These have resin bodies with printed bums and for the Rb74 also printed noses. As I was chopping away to separate the casting blocks I noticed a bit of an air bubble just under the skin on one, holding it up to the light... Oh dear. On removing the casting... flange this then turned into an actual hole, and attempts were made to fill it in with relatively runny filler, but as it turns out that softened up the thin edges around it and now it'll be a relatively involved job to fix it all. Add in the extra chunks of resin you can see on top of the main body over to the right, which are also present on the other three to various degrees, and I've simply gone and ordered some Eduard replacements (they're largely license built AIM-9L) and downgraded the kits ones to plan B. The clear nose parts on those also seem very cool, so that's a plus. A quick comparison of parts vs shipping cost had me toss in some AIM-7E as well in case they'd just happen to be better looking but otherwise interchangeable than the Rb71 (aka license built Skyflash) in the kit. Front fuselage's next. I decided to look into any major sanding/carving/filling jobs there first before getting started on the cockpit. Some initial scouting showed first some peculiar creases in places. Luckily they're all ridges extending out form the surface and with the 1/32 sized detailing means it's easy to sand off. (The same appears to hold largely true for most of the 3D-printing texture found here and there on the piece.( Let's just hope it isn't a sign of massive internal stress that'll rip everything apart in a few years. Looking inside the intake trunking has tabs that should slide into slots in the fuselage. Looking at those slots and the general intake area of the main fuselage part... This won't be a shake-n-bake. Also, I've noticed that the inner wall wee see there at the rear of the cockpit and kinda rear of the wheel well, well, I dunno if it's also where they had the master split in two or if it's just that the wall in question shrank a bit much after casting but around the lower half of the fuselage we have a bit of a general depression on the outside centred around a pretty clear line just outside of the wall. Good thing I got a new tube of filler recently. Time to start making dust.
  22. Now the Corsair is finished, it’s time to pull a kit out I’ve been excited to do and gathering parts for. This is the Zoukei Mura Do-335 A-0, but I will be modifying it to a B-2 heavy fighter-bomber version. This will be a Luft ‘46 build, with a heavy dose of inspiration from @Out2gtcha’s excellent Do-335 build. I have a wealth of aftermarket for this one, including (but not limited to); HGW seatbelts Sprues from the HK Do-335 B-2 CMK Bombs Zoukei Mura Photoetch upgrade sets Eduard Photoetch upgrade sets Master brass barrels MDC resin guns and oxygen hoses And much more! This will be a long and intricate build with much modification of the kit. I am going to rivet the whole plane with the MDC rivet tool, one rivet at a time. I am contemplating trying a stressed skin effect on it too (not decided on that one yet!). We shall see how this goes! Here are some shots of my build so far; For those interested here’s some ‘history’ of the Do-335 from an alternate history concept I am working on; ‘Following many discussions in the Luftwaffe High Command, a push was made in 1942 to accelerate the Me-262 program as a counter to the increasing bombing raids the Allies were raining down on Germany. Hitler wanted the jet to become a fast fighter-bomber, but he was talked out of this by pointing out the Do-335 would make a superior schnell bomber with its increased bomb load and excellent flight characteristics. This led to funds and resources being diverted from other wonder weapon programs to boost the Do-335 production capabilities. The decreasing effectiveness of Allied bombing as the jet interceptors came online and started to take down bombers in large numbers, combined with resources gained from various areas in the Middle East and the Caucasus region allowed the Luftwaffe numbers to swell to sizes only seen in 1939. During the lull in heavy bombing as the Allied air forces reassessed their strategies, German factories began relocation into underground facilities that had been under construction for several months at that point. Dornier was able to significantly increase their output with heavy focus put into Do-335 production and modification. By late autumn 1945 the plant was turning out 9 planes a shift, 3 shifts a day, and numbers were only to increase. The Do-335 underwent significant modifications over its lifetime, later to become a fantastic heavy night fighter, often competing with Heinkel’s 219 as the preferred aircraft for that role. It is largely remembered for its role as a fighter-bomber and the damage it inflicted in rapid bombing campaigns during several key moments in the late war. The almost continual bombing of the Normandy beach head delayed the Allies gaining their foothold on the continent by several days, enough to bring panzer forces up to slow the advance further. Bombing of Allied positions during the Ardennes Offensive allowed German forces to reach Antwerp, cutting British and American lines leading to chaos among Allied top brass and a strategic withdrawal, if temporarily, back past the French border. The most famous operation the Do-335 was involved in was the ‘sealing’ of the Suez Canal during the rapid push into Egypt by Rommel’s Afrika Korps in early 1944. 15 Do-335 B-1’s go 3/JG.55 were tasked with destroying any facilities and shipping in the canal to prevent British reinforcement and resupply of their beleaguered forces in Egypt. After several runs hitting port facilities and merchant ships they came across a Royal Navy force trying to exit the canal headed by HMS King George V. The ships were steaming at an excessive speed for the canal hoping to exit the canal before being spotted and were bunched too close together in the tight confines. Hauptmann Martin Huber spotted the ships and led his flight down to bomb such tempting targets. The flak coming up from the ships and land based guns was intense, but the Dornier’s speed held them in good stead as they came down. Huber had given targets to each plane but the focus was the battleship. Performing a dive bomb the Do-335 hadn’t been designed for Huber’s flight dropped their bombs as low as they felt the could and pulled up and away fast. Fearing flak and enemy fighters, the Do-335’s sped away rapidly. Little did Huber know his run had dealt a fatal blow. A 500Kg bomb from his plane had penetrated the King George V’s main forward magazine and detonated. The resulting explosion blew the bow end of the battleship clean off killing 800 of the crew outright. The explosion was so powerful, and the proximity of the other ships in the flotilla so close, the two destroyers (HMS Nubian & Māori) were destroyed outright. The HMS Suffolk unable to stop in time plowed straight into the wreck of the King George V and led to a naval pileup which blocked the canal. Damage from the explosion obliterated ground forces in the area tasked with defending the canal entrance. No more British traffic was able to make it through, and would have to travel the long way around and into a South Atlantic heavily populated with U-Boats. The Afrika Korps were able to seize on the chance and several days later take the canal and push on into the Sinai.’ The Longest War: The Air War Over Europe & The North African Theatre 1939-1948
  23. Hello fellows, Let me show you my new project. The Trumpeter P-47 Thunderbolt, bubbletop, "2 Big and too Heavy", in 1/32 scale. As you know, this Tumpeter's model has a lot of interior details, which I'll try to made visible...(at least some of them). And here some pics...; this is the real bird, and the Trumpeter art box. As usual, I've started with the cockpit: As aftermarket, I only bought the Yahu Instrument panel. In my opinion It's worthy, and improves a lot. Most of the ducting and piping, wont be visible after the model is assembled... I'd like this part be visible, so I've added some hoses and wires... As also I did, behind the instrument panel: Prior cutting the fuselage, I did a fit test... My idea is gluing the two cut parts of fuselage, so they be easily to put and remove, in order to show the interior (the water tank, fuses added, etc..) And this is the way I hope the model will be seen (removing the parts): Note: the rear part of fuselage, won't be removable. Alhough I think is interesting, also.... So now, after putting AK putty for filling the gaps, the two halfs are drying... And finally, a last pic of the model.... I hope you enjoy it, and I would appreciate your comments! Thanks for watching.
  24. Hey everyone With my 1/48 Tempest build coming to an end and my Harrier coming along nicely, I’ve decided that to keep my interest (in the Harrier) from waining I’ll build another Tempest Mk.V as the one from Eduard has really wetted my appetite for this rugged but rather handsome airplane. This one will be the 1/32 Hi-Tech offering from Special Hobby. As I seem to have more money than sense I’ll be adding some after market in the way of… And.. And.. And.. And.. And for some reason.. Plus all the resin and etch that you get in the standard kit. As ever I’ll be creating and spraying all codes and markings (not sure which yet), hopefully once completed I should have a fine replica of the real thing. Cheers all Iain
  25. I was going to post this when I finished it last month, but I didn't want to clash with (or get unfavourably compared to !) HL-10's one. It's the ancient Revell 1/32 kit, (the original UK boxing) with its original price tag of 14s.9d! I bought it from eBay for a fair price from a poor chap whose eyesight is failing - he had already started the kit and was unable to continue. I hope I've done right by him Not many original parts left - replacements detailed as follows: Cobra Company: cockpit, 20mm cannon and turret (truly excellent pieces!) Fireball Modelworks: engine cowl and exhaust, rocket pods, decals (also very high quality) Werner's Wings: Extremely good vacform canopy, a must-have for this kit. CMK: crew figures Academy: Crew heads (from the 1/32 Hornet); turret miniguns (from 1/35 BlackHawk kit) Verlinden: helmets in the cockpit (from their detail set for the AH-64, wrong helmets for that kit, so very useful here!) Lots of aftermarket added on this! The excellent Cobra Company cockpit, which transforms the interior. The finished article in a simple diorama setting entitled, "Real Men Drink Kool-Aid"! (All pictures courtesy of IPMS Farnborough website, taken by Chris Bradley) The build was inspired by the book "Snake Pilot" by Randy Zahn, who flew 68-15068 "Cyndy Ann" as Aircraft Commander, callsign Cavalier 24. (The name was painted by crew chief Marshall "Bones" Maring, and was spelt differently from the real Cyndy who the aircraft was named after). This book is an absolute must-read if you like Vietnam-era aviation. Although a very simple diorama, Zahn mentions often that all they had to drink at the forward operating base at Phuoc Vinh was Kool-Aid, a fruit squash drink. I played on this for the diorama, and it meant I got to avoid the Vietnam diorama cliche of Coke cans! The XM-35 mod added a sawn-off 20mm Vulcan cannon to the underwing hardpoint on the left side. It was designed to enable stand-off engagements with the NVA .51 AA guns. The fitting of the cannon required extra wiring looms inside protective panels. The ammunition was carried in two sponsons on either side and fed through a crossfeed under the nose. All these additions are provided in the Cobra Company aftermarket set. Contrary to most online and book references (and even the decal instructions), 15068 had a left-mounted tail rotor. The diorama (if you could call it that) was a simple plywood base. It's based on a photo which shows C/1/9 Cav helicopters in the open on dirt parking without revetments. Suits the kind of simplicity I like! I added various vents, tail "stinger", and beacon mount/light from scratch, and extra details in the cockpit, rotors etc. I think for such an old kit, it's very well served with very high quality aftermarket items, and scrubs up very nicely! I am happy to answer questions and offer any tips on the build process if anyone else is making one of these. All the best, Alan
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