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  1. Here is my attempt. Where it will lead me, only my carpet monster knows Here are photos of my carpet monster with its future meals: I will be using those paints: Keeping it kitchen-like I started with the following recipe: 1.5g of Titanium White 1.5g of Carbon Black 1.5g of Yellow Ochre 4.5g of Super Matt Medium After mixing it well, adding "professional" label and test-spraying - I am now a happy owner of a new bottle of RLM66: I have couple of more bottles to go still.
  2. Here's my placeholder for Hasegawa's 1/32 FW190D-9... here's the kit: ... and the plasticky goodness therein: ... and the instructions: The kit contains a pilot figure who I may or may not use depending on how well done he is - I can't really see the parts for him in amongst the bagged sprues. If not, I have these: I also have the New Ware canopy mask set - inside and outside masks : The kit transfers look remarkably good for Hasegawa - I don't fancy the JV44 markings with the striped undersides (no offence @Retired Bob ) and the kit has two options for them, but there is another option provided: ... which I may use as it's a nice plain-looking one, but failing that I also have these: So I think I'm set. I've seen some different aftermarket gun-covers are available but I'm blissfully ignorant of the differences so I'll just hope the kit-supplied one is correct for whichever option I do go for See you when it all kicks off Cheers, Stew
  3. Good afternoon and welcome to my Christmas WIP. it’s a big un. Italeri’s Dassault Mirage iiiC in 1/32 scale. like most if not all of my builds I know nothing about this aeroplane apart from it looks great and has nothing whatsoever to do with John Carpenters classic siege movie that I have aped for the title. Here’s the frankly MASSIVE box. Look!!!!! theres a can of Tamiya paint and some TET for scale. I had a warm fuzzy feeling this morning when I saw the BM logo with snow on top. This encouraged me to tidy the bench off, get a coffee and dive right in to this big beastie. I’m planing on making the one on the front of the box so if you feel festive and fancy a nice fire side build. Pull up a log, grab an egg nog (other drinks are available) and come along for the sleigh ride. I can’t guarantee much but what I can say is that it’s going to be fun. Take care and see you in the next post. ️ Johnny.
  4. Hello people! This is my first post of the year, I will be building the infamous 1/32 Revell UH-1D Gunship with the Dominican republic air force paint scheme and configuration, I'll be building the UH-1H FAD 3032, I want to try to do the best I can to get this kit up to today's standards.
  5. As my first planned build is the Hall’s Bulldog Air Racer, I need something for it to race. So my second entry is another Williams Brothers 1/32 racer, the Laird Super Solution. From the Williams Brothers website “Designed by Matty Laird in 1931, it was designed to minimize all frontal area to reduce drag and obtain the maximum possible speed. Rolled our of the factory just 5 days before the Bendix cross country race- from Burbank,California to Cleveland, Ohio. The plane had some initial stability issues, but they were corrected overnight. Jimmy Doolittle took the plane and flew from Lansing, Illinois to Burbank for the Bendix race! Immediately, he was off for the race to Cleveland, which he won with an average speed of 223mph, but he immediately refueled and went on to Newark, New Jersey to set a new coast to coast record! And then, he refueled, and flew back to Cleveland to enter the Thompson Trophy Race-a total of 2882 miles! Alas, the trip was too much for the engine, and after an early lead, he had to drop out in lap 7.”
  6. Well, off we go. I've had a soft spot for the Sea Gladiator since my Dad told me the story of Faith, Hope and Charity, and the part taken by the aircraft in the defence of Malta. Some decades ago, I spent a memorable 10 days in Malta which included a visit to N5520 Faith resting in the bowels of Fort St Elmo. I'm afraid I must confess that I gave her a tender kiss on the cowling and shed a tear. Fortunately, there were no witnesses. The kit comes with decals for N5519, another of the Malta Sea Gladiators, but it didn't survive the war, being destroyed in an air raid on 4 February 1941. This was Hope, coincidentally the name of my favourite Aunt. Either N5519 or N5520 would be most satisfying to model due to these connections. I'd like to finish the aircraft in prewar silver dope. AIMS Models offers a decal set which includes markings for N5519 in this style, serving aboard the ill fated HMS Glorious as war clouds gathered in June 1939. I wonder if N5520 was similarly aboard HMS Glorious or another carrier? According to an article published on The Scarf & Goggles Social Club website (credible source?); " ... in March 1940 ... 18 Gloster Sea Gladiators, believed to have consecutive serial numbers N5518 – N5535, were unloaded on the Island (Malta) in packing cases, bound for the carrier HMS Glorious." As HMS Glorious was sunk on 8 June, these aircraft were assigned to other stations; HMS Eagle, Egypt and Malta. The crated airframes raise a question or two. According to Wikipedia; "Of the 98 aircraft built as, or converted to, Sea Gladiators, 54 were still in service by the outbreak of the Second World War." So none of the airframes in crates were fresh from the manufacturer. But were they sourced from storage? Were they repaired or refurbished airframes? Had some/all already served aboard aircraft carriers? And is it Sea Gladiator Mk.II or simply Sea Gladiator? All help, advice and constructive crits most welcome. May all our builds be 'on the top line'.
  7. Hi all Been working on this one as part of the PRRRS GB, I just about snuck this over the line before the extended deadline. A big thanks to @Col. @CorsairfoxfouruncleaCorsairfoxfouruncleand @Enzo the Magnificentfor hosting etc and those who offered support and encouragement along the way. Hope you don't mind me posting here. This is the 32nd scale Williams Brothers kit and I enjoyed this one. The cockpit had various scratch built additions and extras , the IP was smoothed off and airscale gauges were used along with Reheat bezels with some plasticard switches along with the foot boards, stbd switch panel and a spares box PE Throttle box. Seatbelts are wine bottle foil with fuse wire buckles and Reheat PE extenders. Lift off canopy section cut out and detailed on inside with plasticard strip and wire. Engine was modified with brass pushrod, leadwire ignition leads and balance pipes added. The model was brushpainted with Humbrol enamels and even though it has yellow plastic still took 5 or 6 coats. The wing scallops were painted with home made masking tape masks cut from a tracing of the wing pattern taken from the instructions. The scallops on the fuselage and wheel spats were painted free hand with the straight sections masked. The decals were a bit temperamental and broke up a bit and some I could not save, but hey ho. The rigging used is Prym Knitting in Elastic and the brake lines or cables and cowling cables were Invisible thread and made taught with a hot soldering iron. Weathered with oils and humbrol weathering powders. Weathered to look like it's just finished a race and after the press photographers and pilot have wandered off!!! I have a few more Williams Bothers racers in the stash and look forward to tackling those. Thanks for looking in Chris
  8. Hello everybody. I am taking time off from my ever-increasing collection of 1/32 Hawker single seat piston fighters to do the Great Wall Hobby P-40. It is staggeringly comprehensive, so far I have concluded that after-market is pretty much entirely redundant. It comes with a great deal of interior detail within the body of the fuselage, I am considering indulging in a bit of surgery to skeletonize parts of the body, this may come to naught if I chicken out! The plastic is a change from what I have working with most recently (Special Hobby and Fly) - it is distinctly harder and more brittle, something that can be seen on the sprues where a few of the injection moulded engine pipes have snapped. Probably a job for wire anyway when I get that far into it. The 'Curtiss Green' is an eye-balled mix based on taking some Tamiya IJN cockpit green, then adding blue and yellow in proportions suggested by GWH for Gunze paints. On with the pics: Those dials are individual decals. I punched them out. Very tedious. You might see traces of green, that's because the instructions were silent on the colour of the IP whilst saying everything else in the general area was green. So I painted it green, applied decals, discovered lots of references showing it to be black, and repainted with the decals in situ. Laugh? I nearly started. A couple of views of the built up cockpit tub: The moulding and fit is first rate - easily up there with Tamiya. The seat - OK I lied about aftermarket. I acquired a 3D-printed Sutton Harness, because I am going to be modelling this as a slightly inaccurate P-40 from the Desert Air Force, so I needed to replace the supplied American harness with a UK version. And that's where things rest ATM. I'm going to take a leisurely approach to this build - the kit is too good to get carried away and start slapping stuff together! Mike
  9. Hi folk's it's been a thing with me the last few years to start the year with a big scale build last year it was Trumpeter's Mig 3 but this year probably the kit I've been looking forward to for a couple of year's since it was first announced.I am an unashamed fan of the Hurricane and probably built more in various scales over the years than any other aircraft closely followed by the Bf109.so box art to set the scene. Now no doubt the die hard Hurricane enthusiast's will pick over the bones of this kit but so far no howler's have come to light on review's I've seen but time will tell.Now price,I'm tight as a drum with buying kits but if I wanted to build this I knew I'd have to shell out the £42 asking price at my LMS but with for example Airfix's 1/72 Buccaneer was sitting on the shelf at £36:99 That's not too bad and let me tell you the box is crammed with superb moldings very very ICM like in style and texture. Anyway that's about it for an introduction build begins soon.
  10. My first entry is Williams Brothers 1/32 Hall’s Bulldog. An air racer from the 1930s. From the Williams Brothers website “The Bulldog racer was the brainchild of Bob Hall, previously known for his design efforts on the Gee Bee Z with the Granville Brothers. It was built under a contract from Marion Guggenheim, who named the plane in tribute to the Yale mascot. Best known as one of the most beautiful racers of the 1930’s, Hall strongly desired to prove his design prowess in the ’32 Thompson Trophy race flying against his former employer’s Gee Bee R1 and R2, as well as the Wedell Williams contenders. Without enough time to work with a newly introduced variable pitch prop, the engine did not develop performance horsepower and he placed a disappointing 6th place, yet still earned a his place in aviation history for the effort.” If you are interested further information can be found here http://www.airracinghistory.freeola.com/aircraft/Hall Bulldog Racer.htm
  11. Hi all This is my entry for the GB, appropriate initials as mine is the Gee Bee Z. Had this in the stash for quite a while, so what better way to get done, hot an R1 also but will not get greedy so will just do the one. I do love the Williams Brothers kit boxes artwork and the other kits on the back along with their instructions which are packed with details. Looking forward tobthe start line!!! Good luck everyone Chris
  12. Finally finished this not very good kit at last. It fought me all the way home. Finished in Saudi colours just for something different. Added the Aires cockpit (superb) - not exactly a drop fit, but nowhere near as much material to remove as the last Aires job I used. Also used Aires nozzles, much more of a struggle to fit (the kit is filed almost paper thin to accommodate them) - they look brilliant though. Also used Eduard exterior, though half the set is for detailing the kit engines, so not much used in the end. Saudi decals were part of a booklet set I got from Hannants and the quality of the decals was brilliant. The rest came from the TwoBobs stencils in their Perfect Storm set. I do intend to build more Typhoons but I will build from the Trumpeter kit next time... I have to offer some sort of a build review as it mystifies me that this kit is lauded as "the only option". This kit was lousy. It has "rush job" written all over it. Every single part (no exaggeration) required flash removal, filling of various sink marks and imperfections (especially the wings and leading edge flaps), sanding or filling of the intrusive injection gates and ejector pin marks, the fit was ambitious at best (apart from the wings, which thankfully were the best fitting parts) and the whole thing is probably more filler than plastic (ok, that is an exaggeration! ) Detail is soft and asymmetric (sharper on one half than the other, requiring a lot of rescribing) and the less said about the intakes the better. A good example of a crap model kit getting the nod over a superior one due to budget and "accuracy" rather than quality - that said, the shape of the rear fuselage is a lot more accurate than the competitor. And though it's much cheaper, you are looking at a resin replacement cockpit at least, probably the Aires engines, possibly a photoetch set and even wheelwells. That puts you way past the £100 mark and very much in the territory of the Trumpeter kit. You pays your money, etc etc! Alan
  13. This project has come about almost by default. When I completed the 1/32 de Haviland 1A scratch build : I put it in a purpose made perspex display box, only to find that I had made a measurement error and the box is only just big enough to hold the model! I bought a second larger box for the de Haviland and now have a spare box. What to put into it? The box restricts the size of the subject: I had thought of an RE 5 or RE 7 but both of these are too large to fit. Other smaller subjects either do not interest me, are available as kits or are going to be released in the future, so they were all crossed off the list. Then the idea came to me to build a Royal Aircraft Factory BE 2a, (the predecessor of the better known BE 2c), as this was my first "free-lance" conversion (ie. I did not use an article but built it myself using the Airfix DH 4 as a donor kit for the wings, wheels, prop and struts), and it is very unlikely that a kit manufacturer is going to issue one at any time soon. This is the model I built in 1978: When I made the above model I had originally wanted to build a BE 2c but detailed sources were limited and I could not find any drawings of the type. Therefore I built the BE 2a because I had a copy of Profile No 133: Building a model of an aeroplane in 1/32 scale means that a great deal more information is needed. Fortunately DataFile No 163 provides excellent 1/48 scale drawings and many photographs: There are also many photographs of replica machines at Point Cook in Australia and Montrose in Scotland, and there is a replica BE 2b in the RAF Museum at Hendon. Recently this fine volume has appeared on the type: This book is a mine of information on the type and a go-to source for information: there is a review in Cher Ami vol. 10 no 1. There was only one outstanding problem: I could not find enough information on the 70 hp Renault engine dimensions to be able to scratch build one, (there are no kits of this type available in this scale). In the meantime I continued with other True Scale projects until I had a breakthrough via RichieW of ww1aircraftmodels.com. He is scratch building a 1/32 BE 2c and has to make a 100 hp RAF 1A engine. He was discussing how to make the cylinders on that website when "Rookie" gave him the engine sprue of the WingnutWings RE 8 which had an RAF 4A engine. The RAF 4A engine was a 12 cylinder V which had been developed from the 8 cylinder RAF 1A. The latter was an upgraded version of the Renault 70 hp and as Richie only needed 8 cylinders for his model that left two spare cylinders which he kindly passed over to me. I now had a potential solution to my biggest problem - how to scratch the 70 hp Renault engine - because I could now calculate the critical dimensions and had sufficient information about specific details to make an attempt. If I can build the engine, I can build the remainder of the model. I intend to use as little aftermarket material as possible on this build, so I will only show it if I use any. Apart from the engine the other part that I was concerned about making was the 4 bladed propellor. I have made 2 bladed props in 1/32 scale, and 2 and 4 bladed props in the True Scale, but this would be my first 4 bladed prop in 1/32 so I started with this. I have a supply of hardwood strip, (I do not know what the wood is - I inherited it from my father many years ago), which I use to carve RFC and RNAS props. I cut two long strips and 4 shorter ones: The long strips were glued to make a cross and the 4 shorter pieces then glued to each of the 4 arms with Evostick wood glue to give me the correct thickness of wood to carve. This was pressed for 24 hours in my state-of-the-art press (a pile of books): The shape of the blades was drawn on to the surface of the cross and arrows drawn to indicate which way the blades needed to be filed: The shape of the individual blades and boss were cut and filed first. This ensures that each blade is the correct shape and size when looked at head-on. The next step was to shape one of the blades: this was done with files only - it is too easy to slip when using a knife and the wood does not always cut smoothly, so an accident is possible and much time and effort can be wasted in a second if a mishap occurs. Filing may take longer but errors are much less likely. The arrows indicated the slope of the blade face - each one has to be identical to its neighbour and mistakes can be easily made here too. Final shaping and smoothing was done with glass paper: The quantity of dust that filing and sanding one blade is shown here: This is the finished propellor waiting to be varnished: I will use a resin boss from Proper Plane, (an aftermarket product), as this will be in a very prominent position on the model and for once I am taking the quickest route! I will post more on the engine later because at present it consists of a lump of laminated plastic waiting to be filed to shape. Thanks for looking. p
  14. Hi everyone, This build was planned for the Desert Group Build next year. However I am going to have to find something else for that because I'm just too excited about this project and I want to initiate it right away. My plan is to build RAF Tornado GR1B ZA465 which served with 16 Squadron. It flew 44 bombing missions in Gulf War I (the highest number by any Tornado.) Her Tail code was FK resulting in 'Foxy Killer' namesake and noseart. I have emersed myself in Gulf war videos and wow those crew were so brave flying those missions particularly those early JP233 missions. I have a great respect for them. Initial early missions lacked noseart so i will depict her later with 1000lb bombs and a little more weathered. The kit is Italeri's big 32 bird, it looks wonderful. (I currently have their 32 starfighter in mid-build and that's been pleasant so far.) I'll need to adjust a few things to make a GR.4 a GR.1 enroute. It's a big box, here's a tamiya paint pot for scale... I have purchased a couple of tonka books (the gulf one is still to arrive) to swat up further. Aftermarket consists of a resin loadout, metal pitot tube, window masks, raf rbf tags,... ....and a first for me: Tom Anyz's switches and knobs to detail up the cockpit a touch together with his belt buckles. the italeri tub here, albeit plastic covered There's loads of reference for gulf war tonkas and a substantial amount for ZA465. I intend to try to replicate the patchy paint and weathered feel and chipping of the temporary desert paint. I've been reading about the different shades of paint and how it was applied. Here's a whole bunch of Foxy Killer ref (and other airframes weathering reference where I can't find 465 at that angle; underside etc) This wonderful bomb under 465 graffiti I intend to reproduce. Note the sand on the bombs above I love the leaking (hydraulic fluid?) detail over the skyshdow pod. So enough waffle I need to start this thing. Any tips and advice along the way are warmly welcomed. I'm not an expert builder but will try my best with this.
  15. This was posted in the WWI discussion thread by RichieW so I have to give him credit for the scoop but I thought it would be nice to get it on this thread. Copper State Model posted on their facebook page on April 2nd that they are to release a 1/32 Bristol Scout in 2021. Below is a link to their posting (should not need to be a FB member to see it). https://m.facebook.com/copperstatemodels/posts/2720441618244580
  16. Hi all I have been working on this one on and off since January as part of the Matchbox Group Build, I failed miserably at the GB but have finally finished. The model is quite basic and I have followed Johnny's (A.K.A @The Spadgent),wonderful build of this kit a couple of years ago. Thanks Johnny. I did not go as far as he did with opening the engine panels, detailing the engine and dropping the flaps, but have added lots to the cockpit such as AMS Ejector seats, gauges using Airscale decals, the gubbins behind the cockpit internals the rear canopy part , some extras to the UC bays, catapult hooks and windscreen wiper was made. The kitvwheels were Modified. The Pitot mount broke off so a new one was made from some scrap parts from the parts box. The model was brush painted using Humbrol Enamels , the decals were very kindly supplied by Dave A.K.A @Rabbit Leader, Thanks Dave very kind, as mine were not great. Weathering is light and limited to some staining underneath, oil panel line wash, faded panels and a dot filtering with oils in warm colours over the rear fuselage and cold colours over the wings etc. I would like to thank everyone who has assisted and offered kind support and encouragement during this long build, sorry it took do long, also @Rabbit Leader and @JOCKNEY for hosting the original GB and sorry I did not make the deadline I preferred the red Sharkmouth as was going to use the Matchbox 490 codes however they were unusable and I had already stuck on the red one so decided to stick with it. WIP here Rear undercarriage legs shortened to allow stance to be right , so it doesn't look like it's Twerking!!! Wing tip tank lights made by drilling out the tips and painting the clear green and red and the glass was Lazer glaze UV glue. Windscreen wiper made AMS resin seats Scratched additions behind the cabin Modified kit wheels, and extras added to uc doors , catapult points made and added Modified kit intakes Thanks for looking in Chris
  17. Morning all, Like 99% of those who enjoy building large scale Phantoms, I've been eagerly awaiting a 1/32nd scale RR Spey powered version for as long as I can remember. There is of course the Wild Hare conversion that usually sells for more than my car is worth (on the rare occasion one actually comes up for sale) and rumours are abound that HK were looking at doing one, but I thought life's too short to wait around any longer and it's time to start hacking about at the classic Tamiya F-4J kit. Before I go any further, it's important to say that this is not going to be wholly accurate and the majority of this is being done with the MkI eyeball and approximate measurements. I'm simply not interested in this (or any of my models for that matter!) being accurate to the nearest half-mill, and therefore what you'll see is something that (hopefully) will look like a British Phantom but won't necessarily be the definitive way to go about such a conversion - you'll need to check @Anthony in NZ's rather epic thread for that! I wasn't going to run a WIP for this as I was concerned about burn-out and failure, but I've actually come a lot further in a short space of time that I had initially anticipated, and I think broken the back of this conversion, so thought I'd share my efforts just in case there's someone else out there considering the same thing... I thought I'd begin somewhere nice and simple, so tackled the belly of the beast and the inlet doors on the underside. The UK Phantoms have these further forward than the US examples, so it was a case of cutting out the new doors in their forward position, and filling the old ones with plastic card blanks: These were then filled, re-scribed and given a quick squirt of primer: Step one complete! The next step was the far trickier intakes. The Speys demanded more air and thus the intakes were significantly wider than the US versions. There is much debate and head-scratching about how exactly the shapes differ, but I've done a bit of digging around and modified mine as I see fit. In 1/32nd scale, my calculations work out that the intakes are roughly 3mm wider at the front than the US examples. Therefore, I sourced some 3mm strip and carefully cut the kit intake sections in half, front to back, adjacent to the grills on the inner edges of the intakes (the pictures will explain this better). Here you can see how much wider the UK version intakes are than the US version - quite a significant gap emerges when test fitted to the unmodified rear sections: To remedy this, the fuselage will of course need widening too, and the shaded area in the picture below shows the section in need of modification: To do this, horizonal cuts are made along the top of the intake trunking, with vertical cuts made to allow the section to be opened up. There is a lower horizontal cut, too, made at the wing root to allow to original kit fixings to mate together for strength whilst allowing the wider intake to slot over the upper wing surface: A wedge of plastic card in then inserted, with the forward-most part being 3mm in width to match the modified intakes: Lots of reinforcement was given to the interior too: I'm going to use FOD guards on mine as life is too short to tackle the notorious intake interiors on this kit, but if you were to have them open a further 'wedge' would be needed to plug the gap seen above. Before I went any further, I wanted to check the modified fuselage would allow the wings to fit - which by luck more than careful calculation they did! The modified intakes were then test-fitted to the modified fuselage: Before they were glued firmly into place and allowed to set for 24 hours: The join wasn't perfect but considering the amount of butchery that went on I was pleasantly surprised. Some Milliput White soon made light work of the affected areas: And after some re-scribing and a shot of primer, things look good! You can see in the picture above I have started work on the back end and opened up the extra doors the Spey versions have on the rear fuselage. I'm going a later version with the pod on the top of the fin, so plans were consulted and a rough shape made for these from plastic card laminates: This still needs an awful lot of refining and surface detail added, but it's a good start. I'm now going to have to concentrate on getting the cockpit done and then I can begin hacking about at the rear end. The Spey exhausts are a fair bit bigger than the US ones, so the hacksaw and filler are at the ready! When done, I'll update this again... All the best, Tom
  18. Alright, first of all, I will need to have a small rant: this Aircraft's nickname is a nightmare. I sent a solid hour or two looking for a proper 'official' spelling for use in the title, only to find that the closest there is (as it is used by the Videogame) is Sturmovik, which doesn't make sense considering the original Russian pronunciation, where 'ш' is pronounced as a "Sh" sound, but even more baffling is 'Stormovik' as there is no 'o' sound anywhere NEAR the first letters, and even though the theoretically correct 'Shturmovik' does indeed get used, it is primarily in more vintage works, where the more recently-printed copies of the same book have changed the spelling to that of the first variety! Due to this, I may as well use the original Cyrillic штурмовик, for at the very least it is undeniably accurate and true to the original with minimal fuss! …Okay, pet peeve rant over. I should probably now get to the subject itself: Hobbyboss's single-seat wheel-equipped Il-2. This is undeniably a great kit, as quite a few much more knowledgeable modelers have made clear, although that does not rectify a rather prominent issue: It cannot fit on my workbench! The solution, as obvious as it is, was to build everything separately, stashing the rest of the sprue back in the box where they would not bother me, and so I started with... The engine. Yes, I know that it is common courtesy to build the Cockpit first (at least so I think), however as I am studying resources and walkarounds to get the area as accurate as I can get in terms of colours, I elected to build the Mikulin AM-38 powerplant first, seeing as it should be relatively simple, right...? Well, the construction could be worse, however seeing as there are 4 different paints needed for the engine I had to assemble parts that shared certain colours and leave others on the sprue before priming them, a spit in the face to my traditional practice of smothering the engine in Tamiya Gunmetal and calling it complete! Here the parts were given their first coat of paint, chrome silver (the only shade I have at the moment) on the smaller pieces and a strange mixture of 'Dark Grey' and 'Neutral Grey' on the larger ones. Yes, I know I am supposed to use 'Dark Ghost Compass Grey' (which does not really match up with photographs of real AM-38s in any case), however seeing as I did not have the appropirate shade I just mixed' and matched'. It came out alright, but it was at this point I ran out of lacquer thinner (needed for one of the paints) and daylight, which meant I had to pause the painting, at least for now. And that is all the work I have for today. Don't worry about the relative lack of progress, as I will make an attempt to expand the build everyday, majorly if possible. I have tried to resize the photographs to be more compact (thank you very much @stevehnz) but if it has failed horribly please let me know. As an addition to this, if there is anything I could do to improve build or my methods I would be more than happy to see any tips or such, as this my first attempt at this sort of activity. In any case, that is all for now. Sincerely, Hurricaneflyer
  19. Hello gents Here's my latest (and probably last) completion for 2022, the ICM 1/32 Polikarpov I-153 Chaika, in the markings of No.102 of 71 IAP flown by Petr Biskup in the Summer of 1942: The kit was a nice easy build, as most of the ICM 1/32 kits seem to be. I didn't add much, just cobbled together a set of harness from HGW fabric seatbelt leftovers and added the rigging from 0.2mm nickel-silver rod (which didn't turn out as well as I'd hoped, to be frank). Paints used were Colourcoats ACS02 - AMT7 Blue, ACS08 - AMT-4 Olive-Green and ACS04 - AMT-6 Black (which I un-blacked a bit with some dark grey). Interior and undercarriage bays were, variously, ACS21 - A14 Steel Grey, ACS05 - WUP Grey Interior Primer and ACS03 - AII Green (based on various pictures of preserved or restored aircraft so may not be accurate but are at least effectively invisible on the finished model.) The kit transfers were used, as far as I know for the only markings option which carried the RS-82 rockets. This aicraft had the undercarriage covers removed to save weight. A couple of useful references if you are building a I-153: https://massimotessitori.altervista.org/sovietwarplanes/pages/i15/i-153/i-153painting/i-153painting.htm https://massimotessitori.altervista.org/sovietwarplanes/pages/i15/i-153/tapani/71iap-kbf/71iap-kbf.htm Thanks for your attention gents Cheers, Stew
  20. Hi all this is my latest build having finished it at the weekend. It’s the Trumpeter GR.7 kit and modified to a GR.5 with an adjusted instrument panel and a new nose from Miliput. The camera pod casings are made from the kit weapons by cutting and extending them to the correct length of CBLS2000 which were the base for the camera pods. The cameras and mounts were scratch built using plasticard and 0.2mm lead wire. The engine face has a clear disk which I roughed up to give the impression of engine running, including all the blow in doors open. The strobe light are backed with that sticky foil as their base. This particular colour scheme is one of the first 3 Development Batch which was then additionally painted blue and white for rough ground trials at Boscombe. This meant that it got plastered in earth. So for the first time I’ve done this and watched a few videos on YouTube from the Armour modellers on how to mud up your kit. I sprayed away with light coats and then with dried out garden earth added to the paint and dabbed it on with a flat brush. The black & white squares on the nose are one decal but the larger item on the fin is 2 black & 2 white positioned together. If you look at the fin one checker is over the formation strip and the other side has the strip going through the checker. This actually on the real thing. The pilot is a PJ item and cut to fit. The camera gun pods had the 3 windows cut out and the protrusion muzzles as such were modified rocket heads that were reshaped. The camera position markings on the pylons are cut in half squares from Fantasy I think. MDC was done with a white pen after micromeshing away the seem line right down the centre of the canopy. My thanks to Nick from the Harrier SiG for all his help on this unique project. As usual my photography is not the best and it looks way better in the plastic as such. Thanks for looking. Steve.
  21. Hi I started this kit way back in 2018 but Mojo loss helped stall this build for a long time but I have been finishing some stalled builds this year and got the Mojo back for this one. The Kit needed to be modified due to the fuselage spine being too rounded and a wanted add for some canopy bits and some kind gestures by @Nick Belbin and @fightersweepre canopy parts and a generous trade with @trickydicky210 netted a Revell MkII for donor parts. Thank you guys. I also need to thank you guys on the questions about Spitfires thread especially @303sqn who provided some cracking photos. Thanks also must go to @Dunny and @Biggles87without who'm this build would have stopped completely so thanks guys. If I have forgotten anyone then sorry , I am getting old !!! The fuselage was modified with square section plastic rid and the Revell rear canopy fitted perfectly. The cockpit interior is part scratch and part revell donor and cross kitting with the HB kit as they have squashed their cockpit internals and it looks weird. Quickboost details and seat and Eduard belts were also used along with various sized lead wire and fuse wire were used for wiring and plumbing. U/C bays were modified with some plastic rid and the legs and doors were spruced up with some home made extras. The Revell tail wheel was also used as the kit one was just wrong. Aluminium cannon muzzles and fairings were used and a grey matters prop and spinner purchased. The spinner was squewed and attempts to correct broke it and another set was just tge same so Spinner taken from a Hasegawa kit that I am converting into a Prototype model was used instead. Painted by brush using Humbrol enamels and weathered with oil washes and silver pencils . The mirror on this one us very unique and the mount was scratchbuilt using the kit mirror. Anyway enough waffle here are some pics. Thanks to those who have offered support and encouragement along this long long journey. I hope you like it. Merry Christmas Chris
  22. Hello all, i hope everyone is well This is titled as a belated birthday wish as it was the P-51's 82nd birthday on the 26th October. This is my 1/32 Tamiya P-51D done as 'Glengary Guy' and this kit is just dream to build and after the tornado build....it was a great mojo rebuilder. This aircraft was piloted by Capt. Glenn Martin Webb. Glenn Martin Webb flew P-51D Mustang with the MC-Z lettering and was named 'Glengary Guy' using his name (Glenn), Gary (son), and Guy (son). The right side cowling read Jackie (Wife) This is the info I have found so far as I thought maybe he was born in Gleengary or something haha! (This is the info i found, but not 100% and would be very interested if others have some info) Paints were Tamiya and i was very impressed with the new lacquer paints in their range, the LP-11 (Silver) is tough as old boots and was a great base for the main colour and the chipping, the standard Tamiya paints were durable but could easily be chipped over the tougher lacquer paint. Red Fox Studios cockpit set was also added to the kit. Anyway, over to you :-)
  23. This is my latest completion, the Trumpeter MiG-17F in 1/32 scale. The model represents an Egyptian Air Force aircraft No.2115 from the October War/Yom Kippur War in 1973: I did build the kit OOB as far as possible, but the bomb-racks really did need to be added and one damn thing led to another and in the end I probably spent triple the cost of the kit - which, in fairness, I got delivered for a shade over £20 - but i regret nothing Changes or additions I made: Replaced the kit's pilot figure with a PJ Productions NATO pilot 1960's Light on intake splitter filled and painted over, landing light relocated to lower port wing Nose-mounted pitot, ventral fin and tailfin flare dispenser from ProModeller set Afterburner nozzle from Eduard set (not sure it should poke out that much, but it didn't want to go any further and as I'd spent a fairly traumatic half-hour trying to bend it into shape did not push the point, for fear of it collapsing on itself) Wheels from the Armory set Gun barrels and pitot tubes from the Master set Bombs from Trumpeter Russian weapons set, bomb racks made from laminated and shaped plastic card, sway braces from spares box Drop tanks moved inboard (a considerable amount) There may have been more, it's just a hazy memory now... The model is wearing (an approximation of) the Nile Valley camouflage scheme – I say an approximation as the colour bands on the original uppersurface generally seem to sweep more smoothly than mine which meander a little too much but I'm still happy with how it turned out. The colours used were Colourcoats ACRA01 - Giallo Mimetico 1, an unlabelled grey-green similar to RAF Interior Grey-green, ACRA09 - Verde Oliva Scuro 2 and an unlabelled tin of pale blue grey for the undersides. Were these the correct colours to use? Almost certainly not The pattern was painted freehand with my Badger Renegade. The Egyptian Airforce roundels and fin-stripes as well as the Arabic numbers on the nose were painted with masks done on a Silhouette Cutter by @Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies with the 'Saladin Eagles' on the tail marking provided as a decal – both worked much better than I had dared hope... thanks very much for doing that for me mate Ed Okun's build from 2014 provided a lot of useful pictures and information including a photo of 2115 which appears not to be carrying the outboard racks for the Sakr air-to-ground rockets and thereby gave me the excuse not to have to try making and fitting them which would have probably been enough to put me off completely Cheers, Stew
  24. The Jaguar Mark X (Mark ten) was made from 1961 and succeeded the Mark IX as the British manufacturer Jaguar's top-of-the-range saloon car and was primarily aimed at the United States market. re succeeded the Mark IX as the company's top saloon model and was primarily aimed at the United States market. Renamed the Jaguar 420G, it was introduced at the London Motor Show in 1966 and produced until 1970. It was fitted out with a luxurious leather interior and walnut dashboard.
  25. Hi gents Here's my latest completion, the Trumpeter MiG-15bis in 1/32 - my birthday present from my Dad: Thanks Dad, if you manage to work the link when I send it to you It's not accurately painted for reasons I'll try to explain after the pictures: The kit itself has some innaccuracies, I read that they existed but did not seek any further information about what they are beyond that the cockpit canopy is not right (the reviewer mentioned this as being amongst or in addition to seven other faults with the kit so I couldn't help but see that one) but if you want a 1/32 MiG-15 bis you aren't exactly spoiled for choice anyway and if you are comparatively ignorant of the finer points of the design, as I am, it will be more than adequate for your needs. It did require a fair bit of filling and sanding - even then the seam of the fuselage join came back to haunt me when I could have sworn I obliterated it. That said it was a fun build, and took me about a month doing at most a couple of hours work most days. I built pretty much OOB but I did drill out the cannon barrels and the muzzle brake for the big gun, added a disc of Aluminium tape for the nose-mounted landling light (on the intake splitter, you can't see it and the landing light may have been moved to under the right wing by this time) and I used the Eduard mask set on the transparencies. The paint scheme is innaccurate - I can state that with certainty, as from what little research I did it seems that standard colours were not used on the Russian MiGs that flew with the North Korean forces, they were sent basic colours like black, white, red, yellow, blue and grey and advised to mix colours that suited the local terrain. I did not do this I used Colourcoats paints, an unlabelled tin of pale blue grey for the undersides (similar to RLM76 but a little darker and slightly less blue) AR101 Israeli Sand Grey, ARUS10 VVS Earth Red and ACF01 French Vert for the top surfaces. Given that a healthy human eye can allegedly distinguish one million different colours the chances I picked the right one for any of mine are literally one million to one, and for all four colours to be correct I think the odds should be about sixteen million to one (I'm not great at maths,it must be said). So with odds like that it's probably more likely that I would win the Lottery and in view of that I really hope I did not waste my luck on getting a camouflage scheme - that no-one else can verify - correct. The IFF and RT aerials were painted a light blue, and the Radio Altimeters under the wings a darker blue, I have seen these on preserved aircraft and I have no idea if they are appropriate for the aircraft I was representing but at that point... well you know, what the heck. I rubbed the paintwork down with 6000-grit Micromesh to give a worn, slightly patchy look, like a poor, frozen, bored ground crewman had been told to get the whole squadron painted by morning. The markings came from the HAD Models set 32064 and I used the markings for '263' apparently flown by Capt. N M Zameskin of the 878 IAP based at Tatung-Kao in February 1953. The aircraft carries five victory stars just aft of the cockpit on the left-hand side - I have to say that the HAD transfers were superb, really lovely to use and very thin, but I did crumple the victory stars when applying them so one of them is a bit wonky - don't judge I left the upperwing stars off as I read that the Russian aircraft, in line with Soviet camouflage doctrine of the time, did not carry them. HAD also provides star/roundel national markings without the white background, I used the ones with the white just because I liked the look of them better. I used some Citadel spray varnish and it worked well. I may be the only person still reading at this point, but if not, apologies for the rambling and thanks for your patient attention Cheers, Stew
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