Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Army_Air_Force last won the day on February 15 2018

Army_Air_Force had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

2,705 Excellent

About Army_Air_Force

  • Rank
    Very Obsessed Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Washington, UK

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. The decals arrived this morning. They look excellent. I ordered them from http://www.precisionlabels.com after preparing my own artwork. I'd tried a number of different companies and didn't get anywhere with the others. I refined my artwork after several emails between myself and John who runs the company. I was very impressed with the assistance and service and his printing system can print white and metallics onto waterslide decal paper. Well worth contacting if you are looking for custom decals. If you aren't up to doing the artwork yourself, they can do that too. Some of the details are tiny and yet the serial on the tail, which is only a millimetre or so tall, is still readable. Here's the set of nine, followed by a close up of one set. The tiny shields under the roundels is only about 4 x 3mm in size. The aircraft serial number is the bottom set of black numbers on the rudder and "No 255" is still clear, even at such a small size. I'll start assembling the first aircraft after the weekend as I'm down at Breighton airfield tomorrow.
  2. I didn't want a vac form to support the wing, especially as the commissioned builds may be posted and need to be sturdy to survive the post.
  3. Just spotted this thread and by coincidence, just shared this picture of the grave of Flt Lt Lord VC with a friend in Arnhem. I was reminding him that it was 12 years since we Jeeped and Dodged around the sites of conflict around Arnhem Watching the thread with interest.
  4. I mixed up some red/brown for the tiles and she painted the strips. Once dry, they can be cut into single tiles and will only need a slight touch up on the edges. I also painted the left over, wider strip after she was done, to give us a bit of spare tile material. While she had been doing those, I painted the sandbags and other walls on the vac-formed base in a base colour. Rubble and other debris will probably be the next job to attach in the next build session. Another two and a half hours had gone and that was the end of this week's build session.
  5. Once the wood had completely dried, it was given a light sand with some 400 grit sandpaper. Some areas were sanded more than others to create variation in the distress of the timbers. The two at the back of the image aren't sanded at all, while the two closer pieces have both hadvarying degrees of sanding. As well as roof timbers, we needed some more roof tiles scattered about. I found an offcut of styrene around the same thickness as the kit roof tiles, and set my daughter loose, marking out and cutting some parallel, 4mm wide styrene strips. It took a few goes to get it right, but she got there in the end.
  6. Once the timbers had been sanded, we got some Humbrol acrylic matt earth and diluted it with some screen wash. After a good stir, the thinned paint made a nice wash/stain to soak the new roof timbers of the house. As it dried, it soaked into the wood, allowing the grain and texture to show through.
  7. While she was busy with all that, I masked up the road to paint the paved areas on the base. With the tape removed, the streen suddenly looked very clean and fresh! Lots of work would be needed to weather the scene, but it was slowly coming together.
  8. My daughter had a smashing time after school on Wednesday - with a large hammer! To create some more realistic rubble around the diorama, I sent my daughter into the garden to look for some small stones. A few at a time, they were wrapped up in an old T-shirt to stop flying splinters and beaten to death! It created a nice range of colours, shapes and sizes. After that, I found a piece of Ramin wood, and sliced it into thin strips on the bandsaw. These would be additional roof timbers from the house, scattered by the blast or cleared by the troops using it. Straight from the saw, the edges had lots of splinters, so I set her off with a sanding block to clean up the strips.
  9. A few of the paper decals cut to size and placed on the master patterns. The 5-ML fuselage code is printed in black on the model, as the white ( with black outline ) of the colour test print was too faint to see to cut out. The destructions are pretty much complete, bar any tweeks as a result of the build. With the decals sorted, and that took some effort to find someone who could print them, they way is clear to get on with building the first two commissioned models. I'll get at least one airframe glued together before releasing the others for sale. After all, I'm still cockpit moulding as fast as the resin will let me!
  10. The postman brought a package with brass strip and aluminium tube. The brass is for the landing gear. I need to experiment with the round section aluminium tube as I want it an elliptical section. I may need to anneal it, but the plan is to squeeze it in a vice with a piece of 1.2mm material also in the vice to limit the travel. This should crush the tube to the required section and thickness, without going too far and squashing it flat. Each strut is only about 43mm long. The final draft of the decal graphics was finished and test printed onto paper today, before emailing the files to the printers. I was told I should have the finished decals back tomorrow!
  11. Casting continues with the kit count at eight now, but the cockpits are a few behind. There's two moulds for wheels for an N scale GMC 2.5 ton truck in this shot. Mixing the correct quantity for the moulds is getting better, but still difficult to estimate, so I have a few other moulds so any excess resin doesn't go to waste. Here's number seven out of the moulds first thing this morning.
  12. Army_Air_Force

    Steam train restoration yard

    That's a lovely atmospheric photo.
  13. Each different line drawing could then be transferred to a step by step instruction sheet. Of course, instructions are just a suggested order of assembly and we all know that some stages get moved around depending on paint colours, schemes and order of painting. I'm waiting for clear casting numbers to catch up to the cream castings, but this as already mentioned is slow going. I'm also waiting for the postman to bring some brass strip and aluminium tube for the kits. Half an hour ago, I popped out to the rather cold workshop and set up the six kits cast so far. Two of these are the pair I was originally commissioned to build which started this whole project off.
  14. While casting the main airframe parts is a moderately quick process, casting the clear pieces is much slower. Too much catalyst in the clear resin to try and speed up the cure, causes heat build up, distorsion and discolouration. There's no quick way. Also, once the resin is cured enough to be removed from the mould, it still isn't fully cured, and takes several more days in the airing cupboard to fully harden. I need the canopy core completely hard so that it can be fine wet sanded and polished before going into the cockpit detail mould. The three moulds below show the final cockpit mould on the left, the clear core cockpit infill in the centre and landing light glazing on the right. Between working on the castings, I've also been working on instructions. This has involved setting up the model in various positions, with different sections of airframe positioned together. The different poses are then photographed and a line drawing produced from the photo on a new transparent layer.