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Army_Air_Force last won the day on February 15 2018

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  1. Once the cabane struts were all soldered up, they were removed from the jigs and were cleaned up with a file. They are seen here upside down, with the 90 degree bends in the 0.5mm wire going into the fuselage and the straight wire extending into the wing. I knew that a certain amount of assembly would take place after painting and decalling. The top wing would certainly need to wait. Unlike simple plastic struts, I couldn't make a simple glue joint at the end. To resolve this, I cut the centre wing section top skin out of the upper wing top skin. The outer panel top skins were glued to the wing underside, but the centre section was left off for now. This allowed access to the brass wires from the cabane struts so that in the later stages of assembly, the wing could be fitted, the wires bent over and glued before fitting the top skin of the centre section. The paint on that could be touched in as one of the last jobs.
  2. The next stage was a jig for the cabane struts. I cleaned up the plastic parts and laid them on a piece off wood. Small wood strips were then glued either side of each strut and these would then hold the brass tubes in place for soldering. More brass tube was squashed into an elliptical section for these struts. 0.5mm brass wire was threaded through the struts and would form anchors to attach the brass structure to the styrene model. Two at the bottom are visible in this picture and would extend into the upper wing centre section. The other two are bent at 90 degrees and pass through the wooden jig. These would pass into the fuselage.
  3. I've used 0.1mm stainless steel wire for rigging beforebefore, but on this Jungmann, used 0.1mm nylon fishing line for the first time. It fitted, glued and trimmed well, but was a little transparent. I then used another new toy on it, one of those Molotow Chrome pens. I got a little of the chrome ink/paint on a small brush and ran it along each wire, leaving them a lovely shiny chrome/stainless appearance. Very fine and now metal looking!!
  4. I worked from photos, so the grey was a primer that seemed a reasonable match based on pictures in bright light and shadows. Since the model itself wasn't being judged, only the flying of the fullsize, absolute accuracy wasn't a requirement. I don't even know if the fullsize example I was modelling was restored and painted with the correct factory colours. With the brass wires embedded in the wings, I turned my attention to the wing struts, interplane struts first. Brass tube is round in section and of course the wing struts weren't, so I needed a jig to flatten the tube into an elliptical section. This was done with two bits of smooth steel, a vice and the 0.5mm brass wire. The strut was cut slightly over length and a piece of the 0.5mm brass wire threaded through the middle. This would stop the tube from being crushed completely. The tube was then masking taped onto one bit of steel to keep it still and then both pieces were placed in the vice. After a few turns, the tube would rush no more and it was all taken apart to reveal a nice elliptical strut. Having the brass wire in the tube during crushing meant that the hole was maintained to allow the new strut to slide onto the wire in the wing. These would be glued with epoxy during final assembly.
  5. Can you tell what it is yet!! Almost at the point of making aeroplane noises and flying it around the workshop!! Step one for trying to improve the durability of the model was to ditch the plastic wing struts. Instead I'd be using brass tube. To locate and anchor the brass tube to the wing, I used some 0.5mm brass wire. This was formed into a shape that would glue to the inside wing skin and leave around half an inch sticking up towards the strut position. The wing was drilled for the wire and it was glued to the inside skin after roughing up the surface.
  6. With the stainless rod nailed to the bending jig, the fuselage half was supported on scrap styrene, until the fuselage vertical centreline was half way up the stainless rod. The inside of the fuselage was roughed up and then some drops of cyano spotted in, then sprinkled with some milled fibreglass fibres. This would give the epoxy a good surface to key to, ensuring the handle was securely fastened. The epoxy was mixed with more milled fibres to create a thick goo which was pasted inside the fuselage. That was then weighted down over the stainless rod. Once completely dry, the nails were pulled out from around the stainless rod and the fuselage was lifted off the board. Further epoxy would be added around the joint before the fuselage was closed up.
  7. In order to key the handle and provide some torque resistance between the handle and model, the end of the stainless rod was bent. To achieve this at such a sharp angle, it needed heating with a gas torch and then reheating after bending to help to reduce any stresses. The underside of the fuselage then needed cutting open to allow the rod to pass inside the fuselage.
  8. So before the build began, I ordered up a few extra materials. An oak base, oak dowel, some 4mm stainless steel rod, and some brass tube and rod. Since the model was to be used for planning aerobatic manoeuvres, it would need a handle, preferrably along the centreline. A paper jig was made to show the bends needed to align the handle. Since I didn't want the rod to cut through the rudder, it was formed to drop out of the underside of the fuselage and back up to the centreline aft of the rudder.
  9. This is a project that was started in July and just completed a few days ago. It was ordered as a present for the pilot of the fullsize Jungmann and so I've kept details of the model off the net until he received the model over the weekend just gone. The picture below shows the fullsize example, not long after arriving in the UK from Germany. Over the winter, the owner is converting the aircraft to a fully aerobatic configuration, with an inverted fuel system and other changes. This is because he competes in international aerobatic competitions using the Aresti sequence of manoeuvres. The Aresti catalog is the Fédération Aéronautique Internationale (FAI) standards document containing the aerobatic manoeuvres permitted in aerobatic competition. It was upon arrival of the aircraft that I was brought into the equation. I was approached by friends of the pilot, to produce a model of his aircraft that he could use to plan and run through manoeuvres prior to taking to the air. The Revell boxing of the Jungmann was to be the basis of the aircraft, but there would be a number of changes along the way to try and make the model more durable.
  10. I did a Revell SE5a a couple of years ago and framed it along with some embroidered RFC wings and a map of the trenches. A fun build though the decals took quite a bit of Microsol
  11. Silver was sprayed on the tail section too. After that had a little time to dry, I filled around the tail glazing joints and also on the fairing at the inner end of the elevator which had a bit of a sink hole.
  12. The rudder leading edge also needed a little filler. It had previously had styrene added to the leading edge. I also gave the ragged sheared metal, where the aircraft was cut, a coat of silver paint. I'll probably use some form of masking fluid randomly along this joint before spraying the top coats.
  13. After a bit of a sanding here and there, I glued the tail gunner's glazing in place. It would require a bit of filling around the fairing joint, which was left until the glazing joint had hardened up. The next step was to add some styrene into the leading edge of the elevators. Both elevators were clamped between some scrap wood to hold everything straight. They also required a little filler. Once dry, the edge will be sanded flat and a new piece of styrene added which will be sanded into the leading edge radius.
  14. It was very cold out in the workshop this morning, but I did a little sanding of the filler applied late last night and got some primer on the tail and waist. The wooden floor in the waist still needs the ends snapping/tearing from the guillotine, but they won't go in until the fuselage is painted. I'm tempted to paint,decal and weather both of these sections before moving on to the rest of the airframe.
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