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Army_Air_Force

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Army_Air_Force last won the day on February 15 2018

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  1. Attaching the tub to the chassis came next and that's where I spotted a problem. I suggested we glue the chassis rear cross member to the bottom of the tub first and once the glue took hold, then pull the front of the chassis in line with the front fenders. That's when I spotted the bumper at an odd angle. At first, I thought we may have glued a twist into the chassis when attaching the axles. However, closer inspection showed the cross member at the front of the fenders was parallel to the top of the fenders and the axle was also parallel to the chassis front cross member. The twist existed in the chassis moulding ahead of the grill position. I decided my daughter could glue the chassis on regardless, as the majority of the chassis was straight and true. Once the glue was set, I would warm the front chassis leg with a soldering iron to soften it and then straighten the twist. I did that today. Here's the tub and chassis as joined yesterday, prior to straightening the chassis today.
  2. We managed to do a little more yesterday. The wheels that were painted on the sprue some time ago were cut free, trimmed and glued to the trailer and field gun. A little later in the afternoon, when the glue had a little while to cure, the black on the tyres was touched up where the wheels had been cut from the sprue. Next was back to the Jeep, gluing in the rear body panel, which slotted in between the floor and rear body handles from below very neatly.
  3. The "My Little Pony" railroad is now due to make its first public appearance at the Tanfield Railway Steam Gala on June 15th, confirmed by email this morning. Princess Twilight and friends are rather excited about the outing.
  4. I cast another set of parts this morning, then made a couple of new small moulds before the last of the silicone started to go off. Next I masked up the dayglow areas and started spraying in lots of thin layers. The rest of the day was spent working on a pair of 1/35 scale Jeeps in crates.
  5. The second of the two commissioned models is now at the painting stage. It has had several coats of white on the wings, fuselage and wingtips, 'though the tips haven't been painted in this picture. The first model was delivered at the weekend. I should have got a photo of the model with the fullsize while I was there, but that stayed in the hangar all day, so it would have been a bit dark. I must remember to do that with the second model when I deliver that one. Casting the second batch of models is well under way. Once all the castings are done, I'll get all the small metal work cut and then I can print some instructions and box them up.
  6. The first side is attached..... .....and the second side. That was it for the day. Only a small step forwards, but at least it's some progress.
  7. A change in the time table at school is sometimes leaving my daughter tired on a Wednesday, so progress may slow down a bit. Wednesday is the only day we have free for modelling. Today we managed a little work. The trailer and field gun were given a second coat of paint, and put into the curing cabinet to bake. She then began to cut out the parts for the Jeep tub - sides and floor. She was quite tired already, so I knew we weren't going to get much done, so focussed on getting the tub glued so it could harden for next time. The sprue joiners need trimming and sanding here.
  8. I'm sure I read it was because of the fire risk. Wing and tailplane de-icer boots were also often removed because if damaged by flak, the torn rubber flapping in the wind caused lots of drag.
  9. I wouldn't worry too much about the bombs, but for a B-17G, the nose, bomb bay and radio room should be natural metal. The nose and cockpit were covered in green, quilted fabric insulation ( often removed ) with exposed metal areas in these locations being dull dark green ( similar to British Racing Green ). Don't look at any restorations as reference, as almost all are painted inside. There are some good colour wartime photos around the net that show the Dull Dark Green and natural metal. Cockpit interior showing the quilted insulation and dull dark green colour - https://media.defense.gov/2006/Oct/20/2000539497/780/780/0/061020-F-1234P-001.JPG Also, as you approach the finishing, don't paint four dirty streaks out of each vent in the wing upper surface. It's a very common mistake, but they are vents to exit air from the wing and carry oil and staining away from the wing at this location. Overflow from the engine oil breather, and other dirt and much from the engine and exhaust collector ring gets blown back along the nacelles and wing and remains in contact with the wing between the vents. Due to airflow, prop wash, prop rotation and airframe shape, these dirt marks tend to be straight on the port wing, but curve in towards the fuselage on the starboard wing, This page shows the staining on the wing upper surface very well. http://www.daveswarbirds.com/b-17/tail3.htm
  10. Cutting and trimming the very fragile chassis and transmission parts took her a little while and lots of concentration; as did working out which way to assemble them. The springs, axles, prop shafts and transmission support are all one moulding. The spring ends didn't all want to sit on their spring hangers, so I bent some thin sheet lead to add a little wieght to hold them in place so she could apply the glue with a fine brush and then leave the whole thing to dry. Later in the afternoon, after she'd gone out and the chassis had a while to dry, I took the weights off and compared the 1/72 chassis with the 1/35 version I'm working on.
  11. We had around an hour spare today so had a quick modelling session knowing we'd be having to leave bits to dry anyway. The field gun and trailer were painted first. She didn't want to tackle the wheel hubs in case she got the green on the tyres, so I did those. I showed her how to build up several layers of dilute paint, allowing capillary action to draw the paint around the hub. A quick force dry in front of the heater, then another coat until a reasonable density was reached.
  12. Another set of castings were poured this morning and the wing assembly jig finished. The wings were positioned and glued in place. I moved onto the landing gear next, tapering the brass strip, folding the bends and soldering the axles. It was jigged up and the gear glued in place, followed by the gear fillet being trimmed, fitted and the joints filled. I also spent some time on another couple of projects.
  13. The netting is balanced on two metal rods over the end of the diorama for these photographs. It will probably be fitted in this location, or this approximate location, supported on some poles and with cotton guy ropes to tension it. The kit radio operator will probably be under here, along with a few other odds and ends. I'm feeling quite pleased with this little experiment, something to keep in mind for future projects.
  14. Here's the last of the green drying. Once that had dried, the glue would be hard enough to stop the mesh from shrinking back to its pre-stretched size. This allowed me to peel all the tape except the corner pieces. I then glued more patterns around the edge of the mesh. After a further period of drying, the camo net was peeled away from the wood. I'm very pleased with the way this is looking.
  15. I raided the scrap fabric box and found some black tights ( hosiery for American readers ) which had a fairly fine weave. I piece was cut out, approximately the size of a 20 feet square camo net. This was stretched out a little to open the weave and then taped down to the board. This time, it was much closer to the board and it was much easier to get a smaller, more in scale spiral to stick to the mesh. I started with the brown again, painting on the spirals and square cornered snakes, leaving spaces for the green. It does take quite a long time, but appeared to be making a fairly good representation. After the brown was complete, I worked from the dry side, filling in the spaces in green. The brown didn't change colour much when drying, but the green was very light with the white glue mixed in, but darked quite a lot once cured.
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