Jo NZ

The family was Hillman Hunter, Singer Vogue, Sunbeam Rapier.

Brilliant damage. Now it's got a reason to be there. Next how about some engine blocks? The way that steel castings used to be de-stressed was to leave them outside to "weather". It was beneficial to the blocks to add nitrogen in a liquid form, usually by spraying them occasionally with a yellowish liquid. Something for the diorama, or am I being too obscure??🙂

It needs to be a bigger dent than just drilling out rivets and re-skinning - i.e. not worth rebuilding. Slightly banana shaped (catch fencing pole in the side?) would be good.

It's a bit like building flat pack furniture! Don't forget to check the fit on the chassis before you go any further.

In a scrap dump you would probably have a bent monocoque too - and a couple of broken suspension arms, etc.

Talbot/Lotus Sunbeam? You should be able to chop one from an Avenger. That's what Chrysler did....

I hope that youy will consider, as with other Pochers, offering the engine (and gearbox?) as a separate kit. The totally iconic Cosworth DFV/Hewland FG400...

Here it is at Leavesden. I think this is the real one. Shiny shiny

Drowned? possibly recessed. If it was in it's own little tube it would be "Frenched"😄

A couple of pointers (which I've mentioned before). As the body is cast as flat sections, it needs to be properly aligned. When I built this (I think I made two) I CA'd the body together on top of the completed chassis. It doesn't always go right first time, but you get the near instant assembly with CA. If you don't like the alignment, dunk it in hot water and it will fall apart. When you are happy with it, back up all the joins with epoxy, and use a reinforcing strip (e.g. fibreglass tissue) if you're really paranoid. The white metal is fairly soft, and the body is heavy. To avoid saggy suspension, fit a couple of supports under the chassis that will take the weight.

Sadly out of production. When it first appeared (1987 or thereabouts) the shape looked really good. There were two versions - a standard 427 and a 427 S/C.

And don't forget the SMTS 1/24 white metal 427

Endurance cars need to indicate when they’re going to pit...

As it's American, maybe the rear indicators are flashing brake lights?

I think that I would Loctite the door handles (Studlock will never break) rather than solder them....

I agree that the fit is really good - if you dry fit the bodywork it's nigh on perfect - until you paint it, and then nothing fits....

Don't forget to put a couple of supports under the chassis. The white metal axles are not very strong, and with all the weight on them tend to bend....

Dan, I spent ages trying to make 1/8 scale spark plugs. A tutorial, please....

A superdetailed Rolls chassis looks amazing. You can build it exactly as RR delivered it to the coachbuilders.

I'm very sad that this thread is coming to an end. It's always the first post that I turn to, and I have learned so much from your journey into the unknown. Congratulations on a superb piece of art. That said, looking at the almost finished display, I want to see some colourful pots of flowers at each end. Don't ask me why, it's just an aberrant thought, but it's haunting me.....

Curious. The AEW prototype was a 4C (ex BOAC) and doing the Avionic fit for both the Comet and the Nimrod, I don't remember the difference in length. Laying out the Nimrod fuselage we used Hawker Siddeley's Comet drawings - but of course they could have been Comet 4 drawings! The Nimrod definitely looks shorter than the 4C. I do remember the +/-6 inch tolerance on overall length 😮

Ford weren't too precious with what went into their vehicles. If you wanted brake parts for a MkI Escort, the first question was "Lockheed or Girling". They fitted both with no record of which chassis they were on. I also remember a 3 litre MkI Capri which no 3l clutch would fit. Why? Because although RHD and sold in the UK it had a 2.6l Ford Germany engine...

I found that the seal in the body had failed. Not something that's easy to fix. I gave in and bought a Harder-Steenbeck...

Not completely out of the realms of possibility that a replacement nose may look slightly different... I remember some 1975 March F3 noses that had a pronounced step. The March team put in a lot of effort to make sure that all noses fitted all cars (Nillson and Ribiero drove very very close to each other, resulting in several breakages). So a shade difference in an F1 team of the period is not a biggie. Martini Brabham-Alfa for instance said that the red was a specific mix, but used an Alfa colour rattle can spray for invisible touch ups... Go figure. Jo

The trumpeter is a pig to build, it doesn't have a distributor, and there is no room for the spare wheel in the front compartment - oh and the tyres are not really the right profile. That said, glue the body together and paint it and the shape is pretty good.