-
Posts
1,204 -
Joined
-
Last visited
About denstore
- Birthday 14/01/1969
Contact Methods
-
Website URL
http://
-
ICQ
0
Profile Information
-
Gender
Male
-
Location
Lund, Sweden
Recent Profile Visitors
7,617 profile views
denstore's Achievements
Very Obsessed Member (5/9)
41
Reputation
-
Nah, it’s not incorrect, but not that important. The threaded nozzle in the 0.35mm version has the nozzle threaded to a bronze cone works in the same way as the 0.5mm single piece bronze nozzle. There’s no need to separate the 0.35 nozzle from the cone when cleaning it. Usually they can be cleaned as a piece, and without buildup of paint. The red Iwata wrench is nice, but if you can find an old Olympos one, they are even better. https://olympos-airbrush.ocnk.net/phone/product/57 One of these can be good to have around as well: https://olympos-airbrush.ocnk.net/phone/product/56
-
denstore started following Airbrush Indecision , Bubbling inside the paint holder , Any Iwata HP-TH owners here? and 5 others
-
It can be a cracked nozzle. Sometimes the crack is close to invisible, but if you put a bit of pressure on it with the needle, it will open up.
-
PSI and cfm are quite different creatures. PSI is pressure, and cfm is airflow. You can have a compressor with high psi that won't deliver enough air.
-
Use original parts only. You can find them here: https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Mr-Procon-Boy-LWA-Trigger-PS-290-Spares.html
-
I used to have one, but didn’t find any benefits compared to the Mr Hobby PS-290. That said, they are great for painting larger models. The fan cap aren’t that useful. It works, but I didn’t find that coverage was that much better than the standard round cap. i use a Aero-Pro HTC 30A.
-
There are lots of good airbrushes out there, many of them are made or sold by companies not as well known as Iwata and H&S. It doesn’t mean that their products are inferior. I have had many airbrushes. More than a hundred last time I checked. I used to import and sell Grex here in Sweden for a couple of years. When they arrived on the airbrush scene, lots of people selling Iwata where wailing on about copy this and fake that. Today they are established.
-
When you say copy, do you mean that it says Iwata on it, or that it looks like an Iwata?
-
I can honestly say that I’ve never encountered a fake Iwata, that was branded as an Iwata in the 30+ years I have been around airbrushes. I’ve seen dealers and importers stating that “all Iwata sold on eBay ar clones or copies” and still never ever found one that worked in any way different than ones sold in Europe. Even met a sales rep that seriously thought that the Micron was a Iwata design, and because of that you should avoid buying copies like Olympos……🙄 Are there cheap airbrushes from China? Of course. Are they as good as Iwata? No they aren’t. But they are not fake Iwatas if they aren’t sold as Iwatas. They aren’t even Iwata clones, since most of them are copies of the Olympos airbrushes.
-
There must be something blocking the air in the part A. Air isnt passing through the nozzle, part B, so that one can be eliminated.
-
Backflushing is a normal part of cleaning your a brush. If you are covering the nozzle and backflushing, it won’t force paint into any odd places. it’s quite normal that you get paint in the needle channel. Use a dental brush to remove it. Be careful not to damage the packing.
- 1 reply
-
- 3
-
-
Both the Iwata CM’s and the PS770-series are based on the Olympos MP-series. In the 80’s Iwata obtained a license for producing and selling them in the US (maybe worldwide, outside of Japan). I don’t know if that license is still in effect, but Olympos stopped producing Microns years ago. The reason you get the raggedness with the different nozzles is that each nozzle has different height compared to the nozzle cap. This is the reason Iwata states that the heads are “matched”. It’s all about finding a specific nozzle that has the correct height, which reduces turbulence around the spraying cone. It’s possible to make the adjustments yourself, but it’s a bit fiddly, and theres a risk of making the performance worse if not done properly. This is why I love the original Olympos Microns which came with two complete heads with matched sets. Always another set to work and compare with.
-
Both the PS-275 and the 290 are excellent airbrushes. The 275 is probably the best choice for the average modeller, but for modellers who want to paint large areas like large scale cars, the PS-290 probably is the better choice. It behaves like a larger nozzle airbrush/spraygun with its blunt needle. I've never had any tip dry problems with it, which is quite helpful laying down large area glossy paint.
-
Here’s a picture. This is the basic kit. I have tracks and a detail kit from ModelKasten as well. https://imgur.com/a/2fDXyUZ
-
Suddenly I got a lot of time on my hands, so I’m thinking of joining this GB. What’s the rules for partially started kits? I have a Tamiya StuG with not much damage done.
-
There are no trouble free airbrushes. That said, I can recommend the Iwata Eclipse. Its a great airbrush. It has a very solid feel, and few things that go wrong. Sure, the H&S airbrushes are good as well, but I like Iwata better.