denstore

There are lots of good airbrushes out there, many of them are made or sold by companies not as well known as Iwata and H&S. It doesn’t mean that their products are inferior. I have had many airbrushes. More than a hundred last time I checked. I used to import and sell Grex here in Sweden for a couple of years. When they arrived on the airbrush scene, lots of people selling Iwata where wailing on about copy this and fake that. Today they are established.

When you say copy, do you mean that it says Iwata on it, or that it looks like an Iwata?

I can honestly say that I’ve never encountered a fake Iwata, that was branded as an Iwata in the 30+ years I have been around airbrushes. I’ve seen dealers and importers stating that “all Iwata sold on eBay ar clones or copies” and still never ever found one that worked in any way different than ones sold in Europe. Even met a sales rep that seriously thought that the Micron was a Iwata design, and because of that you should avoid buying copies like Olympos……🙄 Are there cheap airbrushes from China? Of course. Are they as good as Iwata? No they aren’t. But they are not fake Iwatas if they aren’t sold as Iwatas. They aren’t even Iwata clones, since most of them are copies of the Olympos airbrushes.

There must be something blocking the air in the part A. Air isnt passing through the nozzle, part B, so that one can be eliminated.

Backflushing is a normal part of cleaning your a brush. If you are covering the nozzle and backflushing, it won’t force paint into any odd places. it’s quite normal that you get paint in the needle channel. Use a dental brush to remove it. Be careful not to damage the packing.

Both the Iwata CM’s and the PS770-series are based on the Olympos MP-series. In the 80’s Iwata obtained a license for producing and selling them in the US (maybe worldwide, outside of Japan). I don’t know if that license is still in effect, but Olympos stopped producing Microns years ago. The reason you get the raggedness with the different nozzles is that each nozzle has different height compared to the nozzle cap. This is the reason Iwata states that the heads are “matched”. It’s all about finding a specific nozzle that has the correct height, which reduces turbulence around the spraying cone. It’s possible to make the adjustments yourself, but it’s a bit fiddly, and theres a risk of making the performance worse if not done properly. This is why I love the original Olympos Microns which came with two complete heads with matched sets. Always another set to work and compare with.

Both the PS-275 and the 290 are excellent airbrushes. The 275 is probably the best choice for the average modeller, but for modellers who want to paint large areas like large scale cars, the PS-290 probably is the better choice. It behaves like a larger nozzle airbrush/spraygun with its blunt needle. I've never had any tip dry problems with it, which is quite helpful laying down large area glossy paint.

Here’s a picture. This is the basic kit. I have tracks and a detail kit from ModelKasten as well. https://imgur.com/a/2fDXyUZ

Suddenly I got a lot of time on my hands, so I’m thinking of joining this GB. What’s the rules for partially started kits? I have a Tamiya StuG with not much damage done.

There are no trouble free airbrushes. That said, I can recommend the Iwata Eclipse. Its a great airbrush. It has a very solid feel, and few things that go wrong. Sure, the H&S airbrushes are good as well, but I like Iwata better.

Yes, but it not really worth it. IMHO it would be better to buy two dedicated airbrushes. Buy a good quality 0,3 from the start, and get a detail airbrush later.

No problem. We have all been there.

That’s not a Paasche. It’s a Badger 200.

I would say that most things that people defend with “good for the price” rate below what I would pick for myself. Buy a decent airbrush from Iwata, H&S, Tamiya or Gunze instead. and yes, I have owned a couple of Paasche airbrushes. The old ones, pre-90’s are usually good, but the newer ones are not worth the money.

https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Mr-Procon-Boy-WA-PS-274.html#SID=3195 A very nice airbrush IMHO.

Hopefully it will be an easier build than the AFV Club M-60 kits. The Dragon kit isn’t an alternative, since it isn’t especially good even if it is new. The Academy kit is old and mostly a copy of the Tamiya kit. The ESCI kit is probably the best of the older kits. This kit will probably compete with the Takom kit, which is a very nice and modern kit.

Nice. I have the kit on route from Hong Kong. Now I think I have to order the resin parts as well.

The old style HP airbrushes has rubber seals. I like the feel of the rubber seals better, but when using lacquer paint they can get damaged, even if it hasn’t happened to me yet. If you don’t bath it in hot thinner for long time, they won’t get damaged, at least not with moderate use, and the rubber seals are inexpensive. I would probably worry more about the shape of the cup. The older style cup is a lot harder to clean than the newer Plus model HP airbrushes. I had the 50 year anniversary model for a while, but I found it a bit lacking both compared to the old Iwata and Olympos C-models, since it wasn’t as nice in the finish as the older ones, and it didn’t have the benefits of the more modern design HP-C Plus either.

I agree, it looks like a Takom sprue, with those square profile runner and the H on the sprue marking.

It’s a nice kit, and for those that want more detail, Voyager have a couple of very good update sets. The original kit came with nice working link by link tracks. I don’t get why they changed those.

Isn’t this the old Oroshi kit reboxed by Kinetic?

Must say that I haven't encountered a counterfeit Iwata so far. Not one that was marked as Iwata. But there are lots of clones made in mainland china, that many would call copied from the original.

When choosing between high quality airbrushes, the most important thing is how it feels in your hands. I like the Iwata HP-C+ , and their triggers better than H&S Infinity, but they are both capable airbrushes.

It´s a shame if the quality on these are suffering, since what made Olympos their name was their excellent quality. I sold most of my Iwatas when I had experienced the original Olympus's, and their excellent finish and performance. I heard a rumor that the original owner didn't want to leave his company to his sons, because he feared that they would cut down on quality. Know that proficy seem to have true, even if not by his sons. The new owner seem to have bought all stock, and assembles the airbrushes from parts.

I would recommend going with one of the HP-series airbrushes before buying a Custom Micron. And it's not that I'm not a fan of the Microns (I have three), but they are expensive, and a HP can do 95% (or more) of what we need as modellers.