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As a result of the close-down of the UK by the British Government last night, we have made all the Buy/Sell areas read-only until we open back up again, so please have a look at the announcement linked here.

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About denstore

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  • Birthday 01/14/1969

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    Lund, Sweden

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  1. No problem. We have all been there.
  2. That’s not a Paasche. It’s a Badger 200.
  3. I would say that most things that people defend with “good for the price” rate below what I would pick for myself. Buy a decent airbrush from Iwata, H&S, Tamiya or Gunze instead. and yes, I have owned a couple of Paasche airbrushes. The old ones, pre-90’s are usually good, but the newer ones are not worth the money.
  4. https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Mr-Procon-Boy-WA-PS-274.html#SID=3195 A very nice airbrush IMHO.
  5. Hopefully it will be an easier build than the AFV Club M-60 kits. The Dragon kit isn’t an alternative, since it isn’t especially good even if it is new. The Academy kit is old and mostly a copy of the Tamiya kit. The ESCI kit is probably the best of the older kits. This kit will probably compete with the Takom kit, which is a very nice and modern kit.
  6. Nice. I have the kit on route from Hong Kong. Now I think I have to order the resin parts as well.
  7. The old style HP airbrushes has rubber seals. I like the feel of the rubber seals better, but when using lacquer paint they can get damaged, even if it hasn’t happened to me yet. If you don’t bath it in hot thinner for long time, they won’t get damaged, at least not with moderate use, and the rubber seals are inexpensive. I would probably worry more about the shape of the cup. The older style cup is a lot harder to clean than the newer Plus model HP airbrushes. I had the 50 year anniversary model for a while, but I found it a bit lacking both compared to the old Iwata and Olympos C-models, since it wasn’t as nice in the finish as the older ones, and it didn’t have the benefits of the more modern design HP-C Plus either.
  8. I agree, it looks like a Takom sprue, with those square profile runner and the H on the sprue marking.
  9. It’s a nice kit, and for those that want more detail, Voyager have a couple of very good update sets. The original kit came with nice working link by link tracks. I don’t get why they changed those.
  10. Isn’t this the old Oroshi kit reboxed by Kinetic?
  11. Must say that I haven't encountered a counterfeit Iwata so far. Not one that was marked as Iwata. But there are lots of clones made in mainland china, that many would call copied from the original.
  12. When choosing between high quality airbrushes, the most important thing is how it feels in your hands. I like the Iwata HP-C+ , and their triggers better than H&S Infinity, but they are both capable airbrushes.
  13. It´s a shame if the quality on these are suffering, since what made Olympos their name was their excellent quality. I sold most of my Iwatas when I had experienced the original Olympus's, and their excellent finish and performance. I heard a rumor that the original owner didn't want to leave his company to his sons, because he feared that they would cut down on quality. Know that proficy seem to have true, even if not by his sons. The new owner seem to have bought all stock, and assembles the airbrushes from parts.
  14. I would recommend going with one of the HP-series airbrushes before buying a Custom Micron. And it's not that I'm not a fan of the Microns (I have three), but they are expensive, and a HP can do 95% (or more) of what we need as modellers.
  15. I would say that it comes down to what regulator you have today? Most compressors comes with decent regulators today, and if you really want to have one close to the airbrush, there´s always the hose-mounted alternatives. When I bought my first HP-CH I loved the MAC-valve, but after a while I stopped using it. I have an extra regulator mounted to my modeling desk, so it is always easy to reach anyway.
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