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Found 145 results

  1. Part 1 So, a new WIP for me to start and then leave partially completed because I've still not got around to buying the materials I need for the display and for my R2 kit. Anyway I was eager to start this one because I've finally got my hands on a compressor and airbrush so I can paint the parts I want to a little easier, I guessed this would be a good kit to start with. I should add at this point that I have been chronicling this one for a while now, waiting until I actually had some real progress to how before posting, but as with all my projects I have precious little spare time so diving out to my 'Nest' in the garage does not happen as much as I would like. First things first let's flip over the build mat - can't build a Storm Trooper on the 'metric' side can we! Here are the obligatory spruce shots. And this is just the water slide transfer sheet, but the plan is to use as few of these as possible I decided to prime and top coat the black parts whilst they are still on the spruces. For this I'm using Vallejo Black Primer. I snipped off the obvious white parts and gave everything a coating of primer. Then I panicked as I realised I had just painted the translucent eye shields So I snipped these off the spire and quickly rubbed a cotton bud soaked in airbrush cleaner over it to remove the paint. Phew! Now there is lesson number 1 for me: Double check the sprue! I was struggling with a bit of paint spatter and clogging at first whilst I worked out the best air pressure. I can spray with a full size gun so I rather arrogantly decided I would be able to airbrush with no problems. So the spattering was lesson number 2: Learn some humility you big head! Got a better layer of primer down in the end that I was happy with.
  2. Hello All, First time in this section of the forum. Saw one of these a couple of weeks ago on another forum. Was impressed enough to try to track a couple down on online for a quick fun build. So I present Bandai's diminutive non scale Star destroyer. It's about as big as your palm. Superb snap fit engineering although I did use tamiya ultra thin cement to ensure a good fit. - a smidgen of filler was needed to fill a couple of smallish gaps but overall good fun to do. Paint is tamiya primer then gunze acrylic light aircraft gray H332 and some gunze very pale gray H331 and off white H2. Finish this off with some USN white H316 highlights on raised panels and some dappling. a pin wash of varying shades of artists acrylic eye mixed grey and MiG filters and oils from their winter camo set. Apologies for the iphone pics - doesn't really show up the tones very well. Happy Modelling All Ian
  3. Hi all, This box has been nagging at me for a while now: So I thought I'd get on and build it as a bit of light relief. I'm still umming and ah-ing a bit about the breakdown by colour - the masking looks quite hard, and the fit is good, but I'll end up with a weird panel line between the red and silver. So far I've put together some parts and filled gaps around the rear fuselage insert and between the nose and red fuselage section. I also attached the missile tubes to the wingtips, which was weird - I used thin CA and on both sides they cracked in half almost immediately along a jagged line. I think maybe it was a flow line? I put them back together with CA, sanded it all back, and one fitted OK while the other broke again. Third time lucky though. I wonder if this is another reason why the Bandai and Kotobukiya kits are so vulnerable to enamel thinner? If the flow lines are really hairline cracks they provide some good places for fluids to run into. The idea is to sculpt the head and shoulders of Atomic Monster Bemular (from Ultraman episode one) emerging from the water and have his deadly beam support the VTOL in flight, but let's just start with what we have Cheers, Will
  4. i've recently completed Bandai's R2-D2 as R2-KT, The only real change from the Vanilla R2 was the pink colour, for that i used Tamiya X-17, the weathering was a few washes of Mig Abteilung engine grease, and Mig Gulf War Sand,
  5. Hi folks, Finished off this quickie project this week - the elapsed time is quite long but the time I actually worked on it is pretty short as it was waiting for the Cosmo Zero. Another enjoyable little kit from Bandai with crisp details which belie the tiny size. (click for more/bigger) The base is another rubberwood coaster with a sheet of clear plastic on top. I painted the bottom with ocean colours in reverse, and then applied tinted gel on the top to get waves. The two layers give a nice impression of depth, albeit one that might be a bit unrealistic for the scale. The gel texture is a bit lumpy and messy in detail but if you look from normal viewing distance I think it does the job. The wave crests are just a bit of white paint, variously sponged, drybrushed and painted on and then wiped with a finger along the wave to break up the shape. I forgot to take a scale cue picture, but the model is just under 100mm long. No problems with cracking plastic on this one - I did give it a good coat of Klear before doing any weathering, maybe that did the trick? Thanks for looking! Will
  6. Okay, next sci-fi build and I'm sticking with Space Battleship Yamato. Although, not canon. This build was inspired by this image taken from Lighthouse. Though I will stress, inspired and not exact. The idea behind the construction, is that after the Earth-Garmillas War, Earth was in desperate need of ships to outfit its depleted defenses. And with the rise of the Gatlantis threat and the defense pact signed between Earth and Garmillas, the idea was floated to buy old hulls from the Garmillas and outfit them with Terran technology. Namely, command and control, guns and engines. All Earth needed was the hulls. As a test of the feasibility of the idea, one hull was bought, that of a decommissioned Gaiderol class dreadnought, and it was towed from Garmillas to Earth. And so, construction began on the Haruna, named after the Kongo-class battleship BBS-552 that was lost at the First Battle of Mars. The first bit was removing some of the Garmillas tech that was remaining on the hull and make way for systems far more familiar to the human technicians and the crews who would use them. Some pieces of a Gundam kit, sourced from my deep spares bin. Part of the original superstructure was removed and new construction put in its place. The command deck from a damaged Murasame class cruisers was sourced to replace the old bridge. And since Earth leaders saw no need for the 'eyes,' these were removed and sensor bulges put in their places. A new wave motion engine was built to fill the stern. And with plumbing being vastly different a lot of unused space in the hull was cleared up for hangar space. Not much, but enough for some utility craft. The new hangar opening. Test fit of the new superstructure. The lower bow fin was removed and replaced. (This from an old Andromeda kit, though it has been reshaped.) And atop the bow. These are from some old jet fighter kit. With both, I wanted to give a more human look to the shape, such as with the Andromeda and the Borodino class ships. The strakes on the upper stern were removed and replaced with simple styrene strip, and the new engine received a cone. I prefer a simpler base than the kit provides, so I glued shut the opening and drilled for a brass rod. And since she was now using Terran guns - I needed some! And as timing would have it, the kits from HLJ have not come in yet and the only guns I had were on my already built Kirishima... I also took some guns from a Mursame and a torpedo destroyer. Though I have decided to not use those from the destroyer. The resin was applied and some copies came out! It's white resin and so is washed out a bit, but it looks good in real life! Of course, then I had to seal the original mounting holes and make smaller ones for the brass rod. With that done, a primer coat was laid. Painting is next. She's going to be a mix of 2199 and 2202 colors. Overall, she'll be red over white like the Kirishima but they'll also be a gray vertical stripe amidships and with the UNCN logo that will be sourced from one of the three Yuunagi kits that I ordered from HLJ. And yes, she's not alone there. Theship at the top of the pic is a Haizelard class dreadnought with two little destroyers in the box. Those, and a Destoria class heavy cruiser, will have their own thread. Back to work tomorrow, so painting will have to fit into my days off. More updates soon!
  7. Hi everyone I will try to share with you, the assembly of the speeder bike with scout trooper. I'm sorry, but my English is poor ... so I'll try to explain clearly I had already made the kit from AMT a few years ago, but the bandaï seems to me better proportioned, on the right scale. I pass quickly on the contents of the kit with a picture that summarizes all the parts of the box: The molding is very nice and the assembly could be done without glue, like the gundams It is on the scout trooper that there will be the hardest work. The only advantage (for me) of this mounting option is that you can mount and disassemble the miniature as you want ... easy for testing and mounting. The head will be disassembled to hide the mask before painting: Then I assembled the bust. The joints will make it possible to give a dynamic position to the figurine and which will be specific to each assembly The legs are then assembled on the bust, The knee protectors allow to hide the joints of the knees, but the ankles look like "toy". The arms are assembled, one hand on the handlebars and the other is in blaster shot position On the side of the speeder, I assembled the stabilizers, very well detailed, with a small line of joint that must disappear The speeder is fully assembled to give a definitive look to the figurine I will replace the plastic cover with a more realistic cover. For this I remove the fixing studs On the figurine side, the articulations are blocked with glue, then filled with milliput. They will be smoothed later with "Mister surfacer" The thrust flaps are modified to be in a semi-open position, and different from each side. See you soon, guys
  8. Bandai 1/72 scale RZ-1 A-wing with a Ralph McQuarrie-inspired paint job; finished in Tamiya & Vallejo acrylics, MIG enamels, and Tamiya pigments.
  9. Well, my wife and son have just bought me this as a present....... I have never built a Gundam before or even watched any of the animations so I'm a proper noob at this genre. However, my tastes are far reaching and I can't wait to get stuck into it some time soon along with doing some research. Any of you experts out there have any advice when it comes to building and more specifically, painting? All of the colour call outs in the instructions are in Japanese so I'm at a bit of a loss there for a start.........
  10. Bandai's new TIE/SK x1 Air Superiority Fighter, or Striker for short, from the Star Wars Story 'Rogue One'. I wasn't sure about the design when it was first revealed, but it's grown on me since seeing the film, and more so while building it. A great kit, easily up to the usual Bandai standards, and quite large for a TIE, coming in at over 9" long (about twice the length of a TIE Interceptor). The one criticism I can lay at it, and it's not the fault of Bandai, is that it's a swine to photograph as the wings always seem to be in the way, hence the majority of the shots being from below. The wip can be found here Thanks for looking Andy
  11. Hi all, Not been doing too much lately and my office was too much of a mess to paint in so what I have been doing has had to be sofa-compatible. To that end I cleaned up and partially assembled Bandai's Cosmo Falcon and Cosmo Zero from Space Battleship Yamato 2199. These are very nice kits with very accurate fit and the usual sharp details and deep panel lines. I've been reading the 2199 Mooks (I have a couple from the defunct Dengeki Hobby and one from Hobby Japan) which suggest a different approach to assembly - because all the parts interlock in 3D it's hard to build sub assemblies although the fit is usually good enough to allow it. That means doing seam work and painting on the whole model and not being able to take advantage of the parts broken down by colour. But if you look at which pins prevent movement on which axis, you can chop them down and build the model in a much more helpful way. E.g. the front end of my Cosmo Zero is separate to the back end now, so I can deal with all the metallics and not have to mask (along panel lines, which is harder than across them when they're deep) the edges. However I haven't taken any pictures of that yet, so here are the cockpits: instrument panels and pilots: This all seemed very fiddly to paint, I'm not sure if they're a bit underscale (because the sidewalls and fuselage etc. are quite thick) or it's just post-Christmas cack-handedness. I didn't use washes for the male pilot which I thought I liked better in person, but after varnishing and photographing I think the female pilot looks better so I might go back and add some lining or an overall black wash to him as well to tidy things up. I need to do some work on my black primer ready for metallics, and then I can hopefully show what I've done to the other bits and how they go together. Cheers, Will
  12. Hi folks, My first completion for 2017 - rather a slow start to the year - is this space fighter from Yamato 2199. It's a Bandai kit and has the usual excellent fit and sharp detail, as well as the usual tricky plastic that doesn't like CA or enamels I didn't have too many problems that weren't of my own making though - just need to be very careful with it all. (click for bigger/more) I modified the snap-fit areas to allow me to build the nose and fuselage separately, deal with the horizontal seams, and paint them before bringing them together at the end. This was inspired by pictures of Japanese magazines and seems like a good way to approach these kits. It also cuts down on the number of snapped-together joints which are where plastic can crack under the influence of solvents. It's quite a mean-looking thing, I think: I think the best bit was weathering the engine cone, which is almost entirely done with acrylics to avoid any risk. I enjoyed painting the pilot too, but I think she might be 1/100 rather than 1/72, as she looks rather low in the seat! Thanks to everyone who looked in on the WIP thread! Cheers, Will
  13. Finally finished with this model I took 3rd place in a local model competition
  14. After 3 plane model, i missed my gundam kits And started to this handsome I will try first time reverse wash process, i hope i can handle it.
  15. Good afternoon, My rendition of Bandai's First Order TIE Fighter in 1/72. On of the easiest kits I've ever built and painted. Weathering is almost non-existent as I assume that the First Order keep their TIEs in near pristine condition.
  16. MS-06F ZAKU II Gundam Suit 1:100 Bandai Master Grade Gundam or as often referred to Gundam Series is a sci-fi franchise created by Sunrise in Japan that features giant robots or "mobile suits", that carry the name "Gundam." The franchise began in the late 1970s as an anime TV series called Mobile Suit Gundam, this featured the giant robots in a militaristic war setting. The popularity of this genre has spiralled from there, and they have since appeared in multiple television series, movies, manga, novels, and video games. The franchise has also led to the creation of one of the biggest toy and hobby franchises in the Japanese toy industry currently pulling in approximately £100 million a year in sales. The Principality of Zeon, also referred to as the Duchy of Zeon and Zeon Dukedom; is a nation featured in Mobile Suit Gundam. It was in control off the colonies of Side 3 and fought against the Earth Federation. The MS-06FS Zaku II is one of many variants of the standard MS-06F Zaku II created by the Principality of Zeon during the One Year War. The suit features head mounted 40mm Vulcan Guns. The suit features a shoulder mounted ballistic shield to block incoming ballistic and explosive projectiles, and can also be used in close quarters battle with enemy mobile suits. Other hand held weapons include A Heat Hawk axe-shaped close combat weapon, which uses a super-heated blade to cut through the enemy's armour, the thermal energy being generated by suit's thermonuclear reactor. The machine gun is the standard 120mm weapon for Zaku type mobile suits. This is a shell firing gun that does not require energy to be used, its effectiveness against heavy armour is very limited and it holds 100 rounds per drum, with spare drums that can be stored on waist armour racks. The other major hand held weapon is the 280mm Bazooka, and super bazooka. These fire explosive rounds that are quite effective against the armour of Earth Federation mobile suits and battleships. These can an be stored on the rear waist armour of the suit when not in use. The Kit The kit comes in a bigger box than I thought which gives some idea of how large the suit will be even in 1:100 scale. Inside there are six sprues of light grey plastic and four sprues of light green plastic. There is a clever spure which combines Dark grey, light grey, green and clear plastic all on the same sprue. Finally there are two sprues of a flexible plastic, one of these has a second colour plastic moulded around the primary colour. All of the parts are extremely well moulded with no imperfections that I can see. It should noted that the kit is designed to be put together without paint, or glue. In the instructions they suggest only the pilot be painted if you wish. As this kit will be the subject of a build review I will leave you with the sprue shots and combine the construction notes into the build review. Conclusion Gundam is a new genre of the hobby to me, and when researched it has a massive following in Japan which now seems to be taking off in the west. There are it seems a vast array of kits in different scales, as well as TV series, films, books etc. It would seem the sky is the limit. There are even an array of tools available for building the kits (See Japan Cool's Website) This looks to be a well engineered kit which should fit together with no problems (I hope! build review coming soon). Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  17. So Just after Christmas this landed on my desk at work, a colleague as said he had just bought the Chogokin version of this so he would never build it so I could have it. How very cool is that! So any way I have never build one of these before and have never built and transforming plastic kits so I was very interested it what it would be like. I know I must have at least 3 or 4 WIP on the go at the moment but I have put them all to one side for now and I started to snap fit the VF-31J together. All the parts go together great as you would expect from Bandai but i already have concerns about parts falling off. We will see how it feels when its completed, it might be a little more stable then. There are a few seam lines that will need filling on the nose but thats to be expected. There are some very nice details on the inner frame parts and the outer shell, lots of panel lines. I will be doing a custom paint job on this and at the moment I really like the idea of painting it in the same colours and pattern as a German WW2 BF109E. I wanted to uses blocked camno pattern from BF109 , like the first picture with the yellow nose but I just can not get it to look right on the shape of the VF-31, so I might go with the full mottled patern like second picture.
  18. Hello there and welcome to my little build log. Last week I received this small but beauty Bandai model kit of Darth Vader’s personal TIE Advanced x1. At first, let’s have a look into the box. The boxart is as usual a stunner. I like this very classic yet elegant style of the box. The typographic mix of japanese and the serif font make it pretty interesting. Yay! This looks great, several sprues well packed. I’m pretty sure this will be fun. Sprue A1 Mainly parts for the outer hull like the cockpit and the rear wings. Sprue A2 Parts for the cockpit, canopy, and machine. Sprue B The wings in so called “multicolor molded” technique. Bandai invented it to create parts with up to four different colors in one single sprue. Also there are some transparent parts of the canopy and window. Sprue C Vader himself in .72 scale. Good details and it’s cool that Bandai provides us with a seated and a standing dark lord of the sith. Sprue SWB2 The base with a deathstar looking surface. Compared to the newer kits, this surface looks a little bit simple. Sprue SWE1 To laser beams in a neon transparent look. Coold idea if you want to simulate a TIE fighter in full action. Decals Bandai provides us with two different kinds of decals. Classis water applied ones with pretty good details and for beginner there a stickers. I like the idea to satisfy both type of modellers. Skilled ones and those who are start building their first kits. Instructions Last but not least – the instruction. They’re completely in japanes but don’t worry the illustrations are pretty exactly so no words needed at all. It seems that Bandai remarked that the kits are more and more sold in Europe and the States so newer kits are in english and japanese. All in all everything looks great to me. Very fine molded parts, a well structured instructions booklet and a pair of very nice Darth Vader figures. Just to let you know: I ordered this kit through Tokyo Model Detective. It was the first time I ordered a kit over there. Darren is a very nice guy and provides a good service but as Andy already told in his TIE Striker build log (beautifully build by the way) you get two invoices. The first is about the model kit itself and a second one for the shipping costs. I have do pay approx. 13 Euro for the kit and 16 for shipping. I didn’t expect that shipping will cost that much. But to be honest, the delivery time was super fast. It took 8 days from order to delivery. Usual I buy the kits via amazon and it takes up to three weeks but in overall it is much cheaper. So I you want to receive you kit very fast and money is not that important for you I recommend you TMD otherwise if you are more patient you better go with amazon. I’m already building this little beauty and provide you with new pictures this weekend. May the force be with you!
  19. I pre-ordered this strait away after seeing the film, and it's just turned up today. I wasn't sure about the design when it was first revealed, but it's really grown on me, especially after seeing it in the movie (despite the fact that it wasn't really featured that prominently). Before I get any plastic cut, I'll show a quick run through of the box contents. Sprue A1 One solar panel, half the main body, the hatches and the two laser bolts (and the triumphant return of Mr Flatty, this time in TIE pilot disguise) Sprue A2 The other solar panel and the other half of the body, together with the clear parts (hard to see here, I know) and the seated pilot Sprue B The lower frames for the panels and the wing pivots Sprue C Upper frames, cockpit details and the front and back of the fuselage Sprue SWB-15 The last sprue's for the stand. No textured base this time. Just a plain square like the ones that come with the figures. I don't know why they didn't include the sand base that came with the TFA X-Wing, as that would have worked for Scarif. Hope it's not a sign of cost cutting by Bandai Fuselage details. Essentially the same as the regular TIE fighters Albeit with an extended body Nice details on the panel frames Open canopy frame if you don't want to use the clear part And the clear parts themselves Very nice ribbed detail on the solar panels The pilot looks nice. Maybe not up to the standard of some of the earlier ones, but well detailed all the same. Shame there's only one as this is a two man ship, but you probably wouldn't see much of the guy in the back anyway And of course the star of the kit... Usual Bandai stickers and decals On top of that there's the regular style instruction manual, and that's the lot. Everything looks excellent and there shouldn't be any issues with assembly. The most important thing for me with this kit is that they got the scale right, as the Striker is a lot larger than a regular TIE. The real one's meant to be just over 17m long and this scales out pretty much exactly to that. To give you some idea of the size, this is the wing frame next to a TIE Interceptor. The Interceptor in this case is the Finemolds version, which is a little underscale, but it gives you a rough idea One last thing I'll point out, not really pertaining to the kit itself. I ordered this from Tokyo Model Detective, and it's the first time I've used that store. Anyone else that's ordered from there will know they don't have a shipping calculator on the webstore. You have to pay for the kit up front, then wait for a second invoice to be sent showing the shipping cost. It's only then that you know how much the kit will cost in total. I paid around £16 for the kit and, since these are going for about £25 inc. delivery on ebay, I was hoping the shipping would be no more than £7-8. I was somewhat surprised then, when the invoice came through, and it was £14, meaning I've had to pay around £30 in total. That's maybe not a big deal for some but, until the TMD site shows the full price inc. shipping, I'll be sticking with ebay and amazon. I'll get the build underway soon. Andy
  20. Evening all, Long time no speak! Here's my first completion in almost a year after something of a hiatus last year. It's another beauty from Bandai, their lovely TIE Interceptor, arguably the coolest looking ship of them all. I mixed up a concoction of blues and greys to achieve the blue/grey of the ships from Episode VI, although I'm not entirely sure I've got it quite right.... As usual I've cut and engraved my own base from acrylic to finish the model off. Bandai 1/72 TIE Interceptor by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Bandai 1/72 TIE Fighter by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Bandai 1/72 TIE Fighter by Shaun Schofield, on Flickr Thanks for looking, comments welcomed, Shaun
  21. Hello all, This is a recent completion for the UK Gunpla Modellers FB group 'scratch/mod' build off which ran from November 2016 until this week. With the aim of the GB being that all entries had to modified in some way, be that a custom paint job, scratch building, new panel lines etc. As per, despite having all that time I did the majority of the work in the last week or so in sessions snatched between completing assignments for my degree course and job hunting. Hence why it's a bit on the sloppy side. Still, I finished something for a GB and that shouldn't be taken likely, considering my previous form. The base kit is Bandai's aging HGUC Zaku II from 2002 I believe, which is pretty low on detail but would make an ideal first kit for a younger or more inexperienced modeller. Those with more experience are probably likely to find it pretty lacking. Though if you're good at that sort of thing (which I'm not) I'm sure it would make a great blank canvas for detailing up. Due to my aforementioned time keeping issues I decided to go for the 'clean' look which I've not done before. I was wanting it to be more weathered (especially to hide where I'd failed at even the most elementary modelling techniques like removing seam lines....) but ran out of time. In Brief the mods I added to the kit were as follows: HGUC Zaku II (2002) RED 12 Mods: -new panel lines on the torso, front and back skirts and feet... -monoeye and bazooka range finder both replaced with polished perspex rod. -ribbing added to Zaku shield and right shoulder -builders parts hands added -backpack replaced with a modified version of the Gelgoog Jäger backpack -left shoulder modified to shorten spikes -stupid giraffe neck shortened -'Red 12' colour scheme. Paints used: -Stynylrez primer, Tamiya, AK Xtreme Metals, Vallejo Model Air, Microscale Industries gloss and matt varnishes and Ammo panel washes. Decals: -Revell, Academy, Bandai and some rather rubbish third party Chinese ones. I had a real struggle with the Bandai and knock off decals, the Bandai ones had yellowed pretty badly and were on pretty thick film and despite my best efforts silvered pretty badly in some places (though my being in a rush probably didn't help) the third party ones were on nice thin decal film but there was often too much of it meaning that there was a lot of careful trimming required, they also weren't that clearly printed and didn't respond at all to Microset/sol. Toodles, Paul
  22. Hi there, As i see that i am not the only Star Wars fan here (there is a good bunch of pretty Star Wars kits builds here), this is some pictures of my C3-PO and R2D2 WIP C3-Po was very easy to build R2D2's colors was not very nice in my humble opinion. The blue parts and the aluminium parts didn't pleased me so i decided to paint them. So I sprayed a coat of white on the white parts, and a coat of Tam X4 blue on the blue parts. Then i coated the grey parts with a layer of Alclaad black primer After a couple of days i started to spray some Alclaad aluminium layers on the black parts I've been very pleased by the alclaad render - it was the first time i used this product. The metalic render is very good. The only problem was that the R2D2's head is made from two half domes that don't fit very well... I used some Klir + talc powder to seal the gap between the two parts : The R2D2 main body is very great looking too (as the R5D4 provided with R2D2) The following steps of the build was very easy too This is the Two Droïds at this time : And here they are included in a Star Wars back ground I'm thinking to add some weathering on R2D2 (water+ liquid soap + pastel powders) but i'm affraid to try a weathering on C3-PO because don't know what to use on that shinny gold and chrome plastics to keep them shinny and also because i read that some plastics used by Bandai don't like certain solvents and i no longer remember which ones. Any advices please, some body ? Thanks by advance Have a nice day !
  23. Hi, everyone, I just want to share with you that I've got a pair of BALLS! Better late than never, these balls were completed almost one year ago, around the time I finished my Macross VF-11B. Enjoy my Balls! Primary colors are RLM78 Light Blue and RLM23 Red by Gunze Although not shown, Bandai provide two sets of 180mm long-range cannons and 120mm dual rapid-firing cannons, so both Balls can use same sets of weapons The base is not to scale; the Balls are 1/144 but the scale is 1/72, which I used with my previous VF-11B Cheers!
  24. So this fella' arrived last night and I can't wait to get started on it soon! I haven't build a Bandai kit before but have followed and been inspired by the many great builds I've seen here. I had a couple of newbie questions that I was hoping fellow BM'ers could help me with... Should I glue the parts or is the push-fit process strong enough to keep it all together? Do I need to seal the factory paint-finish with Klear before I start weathering? Or is it ok to weather right on top of it? I've read about the plastic being fragile with/attacked by certain products - I mostly use acrylics and water-based so would I be ok with those? Any advice on a final finish for this guy - Matt, Satin or Gloss? Sorry for all the queries, thanks in advance! Cheers, Dermot
  25. Speeder Bike and Biker Scout Bandai 1/12 Star Wars build no. 4 for the year, and this one went together as well as all the others from Bandai, although the size and shape of it make it somewhat unwieldy when it's all together. The trooper had to be pinned to the saddle to stop him from sliding around and the whole thing's surprisingly heavy, there's quite a lot of plastic in this. The wip thread is here I'll definitely get another at some point, when Disney sort out the mess they've created, as I'd like to do a Hoth one in white, but for now here's the Endor version. Thanks for looking Andy