Jump to content

As a result of the close-down of the UK by the British Government last night, we have made all the Buy/Sell areas read-only until we open back up again, so please have a look at the announcement linked here.

This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

Sancho Panzer

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

252 Excellent

1 Follower

About Sancho Panzer

  • Rank
    New Member
  • Birthday 01/17/1965

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Canterbury, Kent
  • Interests
    WW2 AFVs and figures, Fantasy figures. Cycling.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks for the suggestions @PlaStix and @Silenoz One thing I was also considering is to splice in one of the spare styrene track links that are included in the kit. As the ‘magic tracks’ can be glued with styrene cement this should be possible. I’ll weigh up the various options and decide which seems the best to me, Cheers, Andrew
  2. Hi Toby, @Planebuilder62 that sounds like a great solution although in this case the vehicle I’m depicting has lost most of the skirts. I was thinking that I could thread a loop of fine wire or cotton through the track and around the first or second road wheel and use this to pull the track down to give the appearance of sagging. It probably won’t be visible if the loop is pulled tightly enough. Cheers, Andrew
  3. Hi Toby @Planebuilder62 Thanks for your kind comment - ‘magic tracks’ is the name Dragon gives to its one piece ‘rubber band’ tracks. They’re not bad although the only thing that seems to be ‘magic’ about them is that they can be glued together at the joint with normal plastic cement. I was naively hoping that the ‘magic’ part was that once fitted they grew to the correct length for the kit as they are stretched tightly over the wheels and don’t sit correctly at allI’m assuming that they are the correct length for a 1/72 Dragon King Tiger, whereas I believe the Jagdtiger chassis was slightly longer. If that’s the case, it’s a shame that Dragon overlooked that detail with this kit, cheers, Andrew
  4. Hi All, A bit more progress on the JT this week; I have painted the wheels in dunkelgelb, given them a wash with GW sepia and highlighted them by drybrushing with an very pale dunkelgelb shade. i have painted most of the tools and accessories although a few more parts still need tidying up. I also started adding a pin wash around the details with very thin burnt umber oil paint. I have also begun adding a few more shades and variations to the camo colours using oils. I’ll add the decals before I do any more so that the markings don’t look too fresh. Once all of this is fully dry I’ll overspray with a tan filter to soften everything up before adding a few chips and pigments. In the images sPzJgAbt 512 x7 looks in fairly good condition - I’m not sure if it saw much action before it was knocked out by Volksgrenadiers who appeared to have mistaken it for an American tank. I guess they hadn’t seen a Jagdtiger before! The tracks are ‘magic tracks, and I’ll need to add some sag as they are much too tight. They were airbrushed with a mix of rotbraun and dark brown and then painted with Humbrol metal cote on the areas where the road wheels run. I also dry brushed metal cote on the treads. Quite a bit more to do, although I’m looking forward to making it look a little more ‘lived in’. Thanks for looking, Andrew
  5. Hi All, more progress on the camo, which is based on colour profiles of JT X7 and others from sPzJgAbt 512. I brush painted the basic camo pattern and then airbrushed each patch using three shades of brown and green to get shading and modulation. I was initially using Vallejo liquid mask although I felt that this gave too hard an edge. I airbrushed each patch without masking as this gave a softer edge which I preferred. I used Vallejo and AK Paints thinned with 20% Air Thinners + 20% Vallejo Flow Improver with a 0.2mm airbrush set to around 10psi. I will now prime and paint the wheels, paint the tools etc before sealing with acrylic varnish and applying the decals prior to weathering. thanks for looking, Andrew
  6. Hi All, I’ve primed and started painting; Mr Surfacer 1500 white followed by airbrushed dunkelgelb in several shades from the AK modulation set. I aimed to get a light overall appearance due to the scale effect and because I expect the weathering will darken it a tone or two. I started to brush paint the camo scheme in olive green and medium brown although my new cunning plan is to block in the camo shapes using a mid-tone of each colour by brush. I am then using Vallejo liquid mask to mask off each area for shading by airbrush to get ‘modulation’ and shading. Quite a bit of work, although I think the end result will be better than I could achieve with a brush alone. Medium brown blocked-in, light coat of satin varnish to seal the paint ready for masking. Early progress - some overspray on both colours before I decided that trying to airbrush without masking at 1/72 scale was perhaps a bit too ambitious More updates to follow; thanks for looking, Andrew
  7. I'm planning to airbrush the dunkelgelb and brush paint the camo pattern. I think that masking for airbrush using either tape or 'WhiteTack' on this scale would be a nightmare with all the tools and other parts already attached as they are so easily broken off again, so brush is probably the best option. Cheers, Andrew
  8. Hi All, thanks for all the positive and kind words; this is really appreciated and helps to keep the motivation high Cheers, Andrew
  9. Hi All, I think I’ve now finished the JT build! Quite a bit more PE added, and I’m happy with the end results. The only slight disappointment is that the kit came only with an MG34 rather than an MG42 as in the photos of the 512 X7. This build was a challenge, and I think that my PE soldering and supergluing skills have improved as a result. I’ll wait for a day or so to make sure everything is fully dried before a coat of Mr Surfacer 1500 primer. Thanks for looking, Andrew
  10. This is brilliant - the only problem is that if I saw one of these coming over the bridge at Arnhem I'm not sure whether I'd stand there in amazement or if I'd run away?! Andrew
  11. Hi All, the poor JP has been negleted somewhat as I've been working on my 1/72 Jagdtiger for the Group Build; here's a few shots of the camo scheme. As mentioned previously I went for one of these 'interesting' late-war stripey schemes instead of the 'winter' theme that I had origianlly planned - I wasn't too sure whether I liked it but it has kind of grown on me. I did some modulation with the airbrush although I'll probably reinforce this with some oil paints. Once I've applied a filter and weathered it the scheme should mellow down a little. I'll brush paint the tools etc, the wheels are all assembled and ready for paint. I've still got to tackle the Bronco tracks which looks like it will be a chore. And then paint the crew - a couple of Alpine figures which look very nice in the box. This will all have to wait until after the Tiger GB. Thanks for looking, Cheers, Andrew
  12. Very nice Panther - I like the ambush camo and the weathering effects
  13. Hi All, more Dragon JT detailing according to the images I have of the sPzJgAbt 512 vehicle 'X7'. The vehicle has only two of its schurtzen remaining, and also has brackets for 6 spare track links each side of the turret. On 'X7' the middle two pairs of track brackets are lower and not centered, so I'm guessing that they were a field modification on this vehicle. Although X7 is missing its cleaning rods and two cable in the photos, these may have been removed following it's capture by the allies, and the Flyhawk parts are so nice it would be a shame not to add them. Unfortunately the JT took a dive from the bench onto a tiled floor; the front tow cable shackle eye and the aiming periscope were damaged; I will need to make repairs using styrene sheet and rod. More detailing on the rear and other side, and then it's ready for primer Thanks for looking, Andrew
  14. Hi All, more detailing on on the front of the Dragon JT. Very fiddly but fun. The brass is from ET Models, the resin hammer is from a Flyhawk German tools set and the hatch handles were formed from 0.3mm copper wire using a ‘Hold and Fold’. The MG is Aber. A before and after shot close up shot - the shovel is a combination of a Flyhawk handle with brass parts from the ETModel set. Must progress the Trumpeter JT too..... thanks for looking, Andrew
  • Create New...