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stevehed

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About stevehed

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  1. Ultimate laziness?

    I know a lady who lived in a first floor flat and had a small Terrier. It was lowered by the collar and extended lead from a window to the grass below. Having performed it was then hauled back up. As far as I know it died of old age.
  2. Converting a DH4 to a DH9A, can it be done???

    Converting a DH4 to a DH9A is certainly the hard way. In 1/72 the Polikarpov R1 / DH9A is the route I went. The DH4 is a far better donor kit for a DH9 conversion. This recent thread in the WW1 section contains the method I used. Afraid PB have screwed the photos but I am in the process of rescuing them. Regards, Steve
  3. WW1 Fighters & Bombers help me expand my collection

    In addition to Steve's post 11. Eastern Express Sikorsky S16 12. " Sopwith Strutter recce 13. " Strutter single seat bomber 14. " Strutter trainer 15, " Strutter Comic HD fighter 16. Roden Sopwith Camel 17 " 2F1 Navy Camel 18. " Comic Camel 19. " Trainer 20. " Bristol Fighter 21. Airfix RE 8 22. " Bristol Fighter 23. " BE2C 24. " Airco DH4 25. " Avro 504K 26. Pegasus AW FK8 27. " Bristol Fighter 28. " DH4 - three versions 29. " Airco DH5 30. " Martinsyde Elephant 31. " BE2E 32. AZ Morane L 33. " Martinsyde Buzzard 34. A Model Spad A2/4 35. " Avro 504 These are all Entente aircraft. There are also the Airfix Handley Page 0/400 twin engined heavy bomber and the Roden series of twin engined Felixstowe/Curtiss flying boats. All of the above are obtainable, some more easily than the others. Not forgetting the Airfix Camel which is the least best but can with a bit of TLC be made into a passable Camel. Again all are injection kits and many can be used as conversion material. Can post list of Central Powers aircraft if desired. Regards, Steve
  4. What's the nicest Airco DH9 in 1/72?

    I know we are talking about kits but the DH9 is not a difficult conversion. There are two builds on ATF but unfortunately PB's atrocious behaviour has ruined the threads picture wise. The best kit to use is the Airfix DH4 which provides the wings, fuselage, tail unit, wheels, in fact the major parts. I used the Aeroclub white metal Puma and Scarff ring/Lewis set up which will be difficult to acquire nowadays but not impossible to scratch. The undercarriage has to be replaced as the kit is the original DH4 type and is too low. The original thread was on the old SMAKR site and the following is an updated construction section. Hope it is helpful and I think I have the original build photos on the HD which I may, stress may, be able to e-mail as attachments if desired. Construction There are two reasonably priced kits suitable for this conversion; the Airfix DH4 and the Marquette DH9A/ R1. Both require the building of a new nose with a different engine and the Marquette will need the wing span and chord reduced. The Airfix has the correct wings but with this kit the rear upper decking has to be raised. It was here that I started after joining the fuselage halves together. However, at first glue was only applied to the section from the rear cockpit. Then the moulded gun ring was filed flat. A piece of card was cemented across the upper decking close to the rear cockpit. Ten thou card was used to create the new decking which is now steeper and tapers from zero at the rudder to about 2mm higher at the rear of the observer’s cockpit. Plastic card, 80 thou(2mm), 0.45ins long(6-7mm) is glued over the rear cockpit and after filler is applied the new parts are filed to shape. A new hole has to be drilled to access the gunners compartment and I drilled a pilot hole and then reamed it out with a wood drill. The new cockpit is also about 0.2ins(5mm) farther back than the original. The next task is to reposition the pilot’s station to just in front of the rear cockpit. The forward cockpit section is cut out from the fuselage using both the vertical and horizontal panel lines as guides. I used a razor saw and cut down to the horizontal line. Gently using the line as a guide run the tip of the saw along this line gradually deepening it. It doesn’t take long to break through and then enlarge the cut. Repeat so that the section drops out. While the saw is handy you might as well continue along the panel lines and remove the upper engine panels too. To prevent any movement when cutting masking tape was used in varying positions to keep everything tight. Returning to the cockpit section we now join the halves together and then remove 2mm from in front of the pilot’s position. This is to reduce the gap between the cockpits as the whole section is now reversed to bring the front cockpit just in front of the rear. At this stage an instrument panel was added, the insides painted and seat and pilot located. Detail to your heart’s content and then file a slight inclination into the mating edges of the cockpit section. The upper decking falls from the front cockpit to the engine and this helps to achieve the inclination without filing away all the original plastic. A gap remains between the engine bay and decking and a couple of bulkheads were made from plastic card. Using the profile and photos as guides they were filed to a half oval on top and a tight fit within the fuselage and cemented into place. The upper decking was 10 thou card which was chosen for it’s flexibility and it’s rapid adhesion to glue. Next the DH4 bulkhead was cut out and the engine, a white metal Puma from Aeroclub, was installed upon a bed of bluetak. The remaining side panels were made from sprue that was filed to shape. The nose section requires modification and the lower part which contains cooling vents is sawn off via the panel lines. The resultant gap is filled with plastic card but first the DH9 nose has to be created. A section from a jet drop tank, nice one Carlos, and laminated card was filed to shape and a cut out made for the engine. Once glued into place the gap beneath was blanked off with card and all the gaps and joint lines were treated to filler. It was around this time that I started painting everything that would be awkward to reach when the top wing was installed. In reality that’s just about everything, something most of us discovered the hard way, just like me. The lower wing did not look right when placed into the slot. Photos and the plan indicated that it should be farther back so I enlarged the slot by 0.1ins(2mm). This looked better but meant fresh holes had to be drilled to accept the pins on the cabane struts. Before the top wing the pilot’s windscreen, Aldis sight and mg were added as well as two generators, left overs from a Vimy conversion. The struts were cemented to the lower wing and left to partially set. Regular checking using the top wing as a guide ensured they dried in place. At this stage I started the rigging using a method which suited the goal post like struts that are often supplied by Airfix and Revell. I won’t go into detail here but there is a link below that covers the method which was intended to eliminate the need to drill holes in the upper wing. In that respect it worked but it wasn’t any easier and equally as fiddily. Before adding the top wing a gravity tank was added to the underside centre-section. This time I remembered to drill a hole in it to make adding a fuel line later a bit easier. The wing went on quite well and was left to dry. In the meantime, the under nose radiator was constructed from plastic card. The grill was scored with a knife and thin card around the edges completed the design. Next the undercarriage. The DH9 stands taller than the Four and has longer legs. I tried to modify the kit undercarriage but it didn't look right. In the end I had to replace it with Contrail strut material. With the wing on and under carriage in place the stabilizers were added, the radiator installed and the water feed tank added behind the engine, the latter a bit of streamlined strut. Water pipes and fuel line completed the forward area and the observer with his Scarff ring and Lewis finished off the upper portions. All that remained were the handling loops under the wings and two 112 pounders, the standard load for the Nine. Regards, Steve
  5. Sopwith Pup - Airfix 1/72

    It's a nice enough kit but it has a couple of issues. The ribs don't bother me probably because I grew up with them but toning them down a bit wouldn't hurt. The pilot either needs modifying or replacing to prevent the extremely laid back look. The kit lacks the triangular cut out in the lower decking for excess oil behind the engine. As the cowling covers it I have never bothered but others have. There's plenty of plastic so it could be done with a decent file. The Belgian decals are from PJ Productions and lifted next day. I retrieved the top wing set with acrylic varnish but had to replace the lower wing set. Second time was better but not perfect. Usually use hot water only but may have to apply decal solution first next time. Belgium is a handy alternative for quite a few kits. HR and Eduard offer Belgium options for their Nieuports but Spad VII, Spad XIII, Sopwith Strutters, BE2c and Sopwith Camels could all sport Belgian roundels. Regards, Steve
  6. HR Nieuport 10 1/72

    Had to reopen my Picturetrail account. Cost me nearly $40 so hopefully that will be it for a short while. A lot less than PB's demands though. Regards, Steve
  7. Sopwith Pup - Airfix 1/72

    Just a quick update to prove I haven't fallen asleep. Lower wing is a good fit with the centre section requiring the barest stroke of a file. The joints are tiny and will succumb to paint. As there are only 26 parts I can't see there being a long WIP. Regards, Steve
  8. Gallery

    HR Nieuport 10 1/72, built as a 10 bis. Eastern Front, late 1916 - 17. Regards, Steve
  9. HR Nieuport 10 1/72

    Have finished today and will post the final photos in the Gallery. This has proved to be a very nice build with few fit issues. Judging by the left over parts I'm wondering if a Nieuport 12 will be offered later. As for the basic kit the ready fixed cabanes will appeal to many although I still think Matchbox had the right idea. It's fair to say that the instructions require a bit of thought, more so regarding the two seat version, but it is still a decent build. Regards Steve
  10. HR Nieuport 10 1/72

    Thanks Peter. Other wing went on same way and I added a windscreen before the top wing was fixed. However I forgot to locate the extra cabane struts that are between the pilot and observer. The kit supplies a U shaped part which looks like the later rear support. This replaced the earlier V struts and made it easier for the crew to enter the cockpit. There is no indication within the instructions to the additional cabanes which I gleaned from the WSDF. But judging from the photos in the DF it looks that Russian aircraft were all built with V struts and this is what I added. I decided to use the U part as the rear gun ring. When everything was set the undercarriage was next. I couldn't get the legs to lie correctly with the kit axle. I tried reshaping it a little but in the end I replaced it with a piece of plastic rod. Not as nice but it kept me sane. Remaining tasks relate to the wheels and armament. Regards, Steve
  11. Haven't built this one since the original came out. One of life's survivors as I've still got it. This one is for export and will get Belgian markings. Regards, Steve
  12. Absolute corker Steve. The rigging is amazing. Regards, Steve
  13. Con-sequence

    Excellent work to date. Wondering if the engine from the Airfix BE2c could substitute for a Renault. Regards, Steve
  14. HR Nieuport 10 1/72

    Been on hold for a while. Two reasons, the first while I concentrated on finishing my De Havilland entry but the second had the greatest effect. I had positioned the lower wings. These have a guide pin and the locating hole was widened a touch. All went well and the wings were a good fit. Until I dropped it and the wings both went separate ways. Not very thick I struggled to drill a hole to locate a new pin so I gave up before I melted the plastic. Now with the worktop clear I came up with this Heath Robinson set up. First add the top wing onto the fixed cabanes, let set and add the interplane. When almost set position the lower wing with glue on the butt end. The support is blue tak with plastic card on either end to prevent sticking. So far so good. Regards, Steve
  15. Gallery

    Airco DH9A, using the 1/72 Maquette Polikarpov P-1 kit. Sprues are identical to the earlier DH9A release by Maquette. Build is pretty much oob but I had to modify the rear gun set up to make it more Scarff like and the bombs are Airfix DH4 and the smaller ones are Coopers from an Eastern Express Strutter. Built as a generic bomber that was used on the Western Front and later in South Russia against the Bolsheviks, circa 1918-20. Regards, Steve
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