Jump to content

stevehed

Members
  • Posts

    1,015
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About stevehed

Recent Profile Visitors

2,804 profile views

stevehed's Achievements

Very Obsessed Member

Very Obsessed Member (5/9)

1.2k

Reputation

  1. Probably a bit late but I would probably do the same as Ian with the wings. I have one of these in the stash but it went back in the box when I built the Eastern Express kit instead. However, as an alternative I have cut the parts from the card and installed 10 thou card over the lower surfaces before filing the edges. In my case I then scored the ribs with a sharp craft knife. As Ian says sometimes you need a little thickness at the butt ends for guides.
  2. Lovely collective work. I've just used some Microscale Decal French roundels. Either late 70's or early 80's. A little bit flakey but they're on now. Used solutions but not the recommended own brand. The Airfix Spad roundels, similar vintage, were even better although they had yellowed a little. BTW are you sure that British Spads had blue trailing edges on the rudder? I think US did but weren't British and French red.
  3. Not sure if I'm going to finish in time as life and work have been getting in the way. Progress has been made as the wing has been cut from card and I've achieved a passable fuselage. Cowling came from a EE Strutter and the engine and prop are from a white metal Aeroclub rotary. Sadly one of a diminishing supply. Elevators were shaped from a spare from the Revell Sopwith Triplane and the Vickers from a Roden Nieuport 24. If I can get the cabane struts sorted there's a sporting bet I can make for tomorrow night. Fingers crossed.
  4. Have got the fuselage joined so now I can start working on it. I chopped 0.25 ins, 7mm, off the rear end. This was replaced with a cone shape cut from a modern drop tank. It was wider then the tail section so filler was added and then gently blended with a dremel sanding wheel. The cockpit is too far forward so I cut out a section 0.75ins, 20mm. This will allow me to add some basic cockpit detail. The cowling is part of the vac form Bristol fuselage so that has been removed too. The replacement cowling is 0.25ins deep. The open front allowed me to position a cockpit floor and some formers to support the upper decking, a remnant from a Strutter, and an upright to widen the forward fuselage. I have a fuel tank/seat combo from the Airfix BE2c spare which I'll use. Pierre le pilote will hide any indiscretions.
  5. https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/airfixtributeforum/viewtopic.php?p=796368#p796368 For anyone interested in the Starstrutter these builds may help to avoid some of the pitfalls. Unfortunately the demise of Picturetrail has caused the loss of some photos but I think there are enough combined with the text to get the idea. BTW, I think the Eastern Express issue will have better transfers than a Toko. HTH, Steve
  6. Thanks Gentlemen. Made a start by cutting out the fuselage halves. I had to reduce the width a bit and it can be seen that they weren't a good match. Combination of a little warpage and overenthusiastic filing I think. Shouldn't be a problem as a mix of filler and camouflage paint will hide my sins hopefully.
  7. Parts 18 and 21 are the cabanes. They sit on top of 19 and 20. If memory serves me right if you get the angle wrong they won't be in alignment with the location holes in the top wing. HTH, Steve
  8. Late on parade as the French Fancy GB co-incided with the High Wing. This one qualifies for either but I get an extra week here. I've got some vac forms that will never be built in the original form. This is the Airframe Bristol M1C, an advanced British WW1 monoplane. I noticed a similarity of fuselage structure with the Morane which is a plane I've had a fancy to try for years. A bit of plastic surgery will be required but if I can get a half decent fuselage I'll be happy to finish the rest. This will involve a scratch wing from card, wing struts, complete tail unit and undercarriage and wheels. A spare cowling from an Eduard Nieuport should fit and I've got some rotary engines in the spares.
  9. Finished and posted in the Gallery. I fitted a spare resin Hotchkiss mg with a short length of rod at right angles to represent the magazine. These were only 25 round I gather so not the best armament to be fitted. Those machines sent to No 60 RFC on the Somme seem to have been so fitted. Probably why some machines are quoted as having Lewis guns. I used the kit bracing pylons. They are slightly oversized but were too useful not to use. I simply sawed a cut into the top,bottom of the pylons so I could run the wires through. Not perfect but OK from a respectable distance. I had a tiny windscreen fitted but it fell off and disappeared.
  10. The Morane N Bullet served alongside the Nieuport fighters against the German airforce during the battles at Verdun in 1916. As the French lacked an operational synchronizing gear the Nieuports sported overwing Lewis' and the Morane N had metal deflector plates on the props. The Morane was of similar vintage to the Fokker Eindekkers and was phased out as more Nieuports became available.
  11. Looking forward to this one. If memory serves correctly the Academy, and probably the Esci, are XIII's but the dimensions are the smaller Spad VII. The Revell kit has oversize wings which I solved by modifying the wingtips, no doubt the wrong solution. I found these measurements when I researched my build. Pictures have gone I'm afraid. https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/airfixtributeforum/viewtopic.php?f=78&t=39602 Regards, Steve
  12. Looking good. I also prefer to create a centre section cut out for the lower wings when possible. Much better than butt ends I find. Vac form struts and undercarriages are best regarded as templates to scratch rod or strip replacements.
  13. I forgot about the Eduard DVII even though I recently got one. Mine is the German OAW version but there are MAG radiator parts and Schwarlose mgs with long muzzle tubes on the sprues. I used the latter when kit bashing a Fokker DVI which received Red Hungarian stars to go with the MAG Revell DVII.
  14. Hi Mark, I also have a soft spot for the Italian Front and Austro Hungarian aviation. According to my stash sheet I have 25 related kits. As usual the fighters predominate with excursions into vac-form territory necessary to search out reconnaissance types. The kits are all 1/72 and so far are Roden : Albatros DII.53 Albatros DIII.253 Albatros DIII.153 Revell : Albatros DIII.53 conversion Fokker DVII MAG conversion Eastern Express : Hansa Brandenburg DI Starstrutter Aviatik DI Aviatik DI side radiator conversion Aviatik DI To convert to late war 338 MAC : Phoenix DII Airframe : Phoenix DI vac form Joystick : Aviatik BII vac form Lloyd CII, conv to CIII Phoenix W18 flying boat fighter Special Hobby : Lloyd CV Classic Plane : Aviatik DI, converted to CI two seat recce Hansa Brandenburg CC flying boat fighter Vac Wings : Lohner LI flying boat Airfix kit bash : Oeffag CII Most of these have been built. I'm fairly easy to please and most went together ok. The exceptions are the HB DI which I think needed one of the struts extended. The Classic Plane Aviatik DI is pretty awful which is why I cut it up and converted it. Unbuilt I have the HR Phoenix CI which looks nice in the box. From Sierrascale USA vac forms I have the Hansa Brandenburg CI.169, the Ufag CI and the Phoenix CI. Last an HB CI.429, the late war version from a company called The Eagles Talon Inc from California. The American kits will be hard to find I guess. I got mine from a bulk buy of vac forms on e Bay which luckily no one seemed to want. As for the Italians I have yet to start on the army machines. My builds are limited to the Pegasus Macchi M5 single seat flying boat fighter that turns up from time to time on second hand sites and a scratch built Macchi L3 flying boat recce type. This series was initially based on a reversed engineered Lohner L. I used the Vac Wings as the template. Hope this helps. Regards, Steve
  15. The end is in sight. Once the bracing posts are secure I'll add some rigging. WW1 monoplanes are the perfect introduction to rigging I think. You can usually get the wings done with two long single lengths of invisible thread, that's one for the front wires and one for the rear.
×
×
  • Create New...