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Everything posted by stever219

  1. Thanks John: my liberal application of liquid poly to keep mine on might be closer to reality than I'd thought then.
  2. I think the plates were introduced to counter acoustic fatigue of the rear fuselage: the additional material altered the natural resonance frequency of the rear fuselage, lowering the frequency below that, or a harmonic, of the engine exhaust noise. They were probably riveted on; the ability to weld aluminium wasn't as well developed in the 1950s as it is now (in our metalwork lessons in the early 1970s we were told that welding aluminium was difficult due to the rate at which the material oxidises during the process). The panels could have been bonded, like the de Haviland Comet skins, but riveting was easier, and cheaper. The riveting on the Canberra was pretty good (it was on the examples I've been lucky enough to get up close to) and it's not easy to spot the rivets on the rest of the airframe under a coat or several of paint. I wish I'd had access to John's AP scans when I did my panels.
  3. I still have one of these in 41 Squadron markings in my bit of the display cabinet. It's not the most accurate of models and my paintwork is less than immaculate but I still have a soft spot for it (and I don't mean Romney Marsh or the Goodwin Sands either).
  4. Neither. Both have errors and inaccuracies and the Airfix kit has poor detail and fit. Of the presently available kits the Italeri is probably the least worst. The forthcoming Revell kit promises much, but if it is based on the newer IDS/GR.1/GR.4 kit there are problems there too, but by then that might be the best available.
  5. But less authentic looking
  6. Quiche! Follow that pie!
  7. In a mushroom cloud
  8. Neither of the 1/72th Airfix Canberras has been in production for a while. They got such a panning from some quarters when they first appeared that they may not be back for some time, if at all. Your best bet presently if you want one is trawling the second hand market. Maybe Airfix might be persuaded to do a complete retool (of bomber, interdictor and PR variants) in time for the 70th anniversary of the first flight of VN799 in 2019.
  9. I used 5 thou plasticard for my rear fuselage stiffening panels in both 1/72th and 1/48th scales: I thnk even that is a tad thick for the smaller scale but looks a bit better on the larger. The front "weapons bay" tank drops out as a single component IIRC, rather than being enclosed by doors as on, for example, Victor SR and K conversions so, once again, filling and sanding practice appears in your future.
  10. Nice one Paul! I like the look of this kit and, as others have said, filling a few unwanted panel lines is a damn sight easier for many of us than scribing new ones. It'd be nice to see a scan of the instructions: I suspect there are quite a few separate bits for the cockpit that are moulded integrally in other manufacturers' kits. The parts breakdown has already attracted adverse criticism on other fora, for example the top cowling panel being separate and the same for the breather panels, but in this case Airfix have saved us some work and themselves the cost of tooling two separate sets of fuselage parts to cater for, in the latter case, a comparatively minor modification. Personally I can't wait for the RAF and Commonwealth air forces boxing(s), even if Dooleybird isn't included in the kit markings options. I once met a former 112 Squadron Mustang pilot (a really lovely man) and I'd love to replicate an aeroplane that he might have flown. Come on Airfix: please get on with it, pronto!
  11. You learn something new every day: I always thought that the Mk. VIs only had four-bladers.
  12. Strap colours matter! Blue straps attach pilot to seat and go over buff/brown straps which secure pilot to parachute. The release boxes are different sizes and colours too: IIRC the seat strap box is smaller and is generally a bright metal whereas the 'chute 'box is black, larger in diameter and had a flatter section than the seat strap box. The reasoning behind this is simple: the pilot needs to separate from seat before parachute in the event of a Martin Baker let down and, in the unlikely event of a sequencing failure on the seat, he has to be able to differentiate between release boxes by feel. Airfix have moulded two hatches: the lower one, adjacent to the nosewheel bay, is the battery access IIRC. The rectangular panel above is spurious; it is the electronics bay access but should be on top of the fuselage on bomber, early PR, T and TT Canberras behind the navigator's escape hatch. On the B(I)8 and PR. 9 this hatch is indeed on the starboard side of the fuselage. More filling, sanding and rescribing practice coming your way!
  13. Nope. My favourite purveyor of plastic in Bedford is having serious difficulty getting stock from Airfix: no 1/48th Meteors, Stuka B-1, 1/72th Whitley VII, JP. 3 to name but a few, and the local Hobbycraft is even worse.
  14. 'Fraid not, only ever paddle-bladed three blade units. Some Coastal Command or SOE-tasked Halifaxes had four-bladed props outboard, and I think I remember reading of some Lincolns having such a combination during early test flying in an attempt to cure excessive vibration arising from the use of three-bladed props.
  15. Bill, I think the black squares under the wings outboard of the engine are chaff or flare dispensers. Agreed it seems odd that Airfix didn't include them on the decal sheet, bearing n mind it's size. The dark rectangle between starboard nacelle and fuselage was an aerial panel and installed on both sides on all early Canberras. Not sure what the three growths on it are, but may be some form of decoy or ESM kit. I'm sure John will be along soon to put me right (I hope!). The pale rectangle between port nacelle and fuselage is a Doppler radar panel, so robbing one from the SHAR kit is entirely appropriate. XH171 sports a pair of circular exhausts ahead of the man wheel bays but, being bulled up for display purposes, she doesn't have the streaks. Sorry, no idea about the square inlet ahead of the gear doors. There is a raised rib along each side at the edge of the weapons bay opening. This only extends a few inches past each end of the doors, so on PR Canberras it's only present along the rear half, the front half of the bay generally, but not always, being occupies by additional fuel tankage. The three small strakes just aft of the rear of the weapons bay should be there, so more work for you. That rudder!! The resin part doesn't look up to it; it's undersized top to bottom and cutting down the fin and/or taking some material from the fin trailing edge won't help. The horn balance appears a bit short too: I know resin shrinks when it cures but this appears excessive. I'm sorry that you've incurred the additional expense to buy it, but possibly the least worst course of action may be filling the overdone surface detail on the kit part and rescrbing as appropriate. You've put so much into this kit already that you can't spoil the ship for a hap'orth of tar (or aftermarket rudder).
  16. You could do any of the last five Victors completed, XM714 to '718, in white but without Blue Steel or you could do a camouflaged SR. 2 with the weapons bay doors closed in Dark Green, Medium Sea Grey and White (I'm not sure if markings for 543 Squadron are on the forthcoming Xtradecal sheet: I'll check in a minute). Alternatively a Blue Steel aircraft with the fairing doors for the weapon closed (there's another thread dealing with this aspect in "Cold War" IIRC. sorry about the thread drift Alex.......
  17. If you can beg, borrow, steal, buy or by other means obtain one use the Blue Steel (and its decals) from the Airfix Victor: it's far better than the one in the Vulcan kit.
  18. I'm still envious of your scribing skills, especially having had a less-than-stellar experience with an Airfix Dakota earlier this week. You should get a better wing to fuselage joint if you take some material off the upper inner edges of the lower wing panels where they fit into the unde-fuselage recesses (the roughly triangular areas on the lower panels). Leave the upper part of the fairing (with the curved upper rear fairing) alone and you should be OK.
  19. It looks as though there's an exhaust duct on the aft face of the mast between the two radar(?) golf balls abaft the bridge. If that's the case I suspect that the black is to disguise the staining from the hot gases emitted from the duct. Some of the images show discolouration of the paint on the sides of the mast adjacent to the aft face.
  20. You're right about the gaps round the wheel wells not being there, so a good excuse for more filling and sanding practice. If you've been brave or barmy enough to open up the nose wheel well you can sheet in the sides of this too, but leave it 'til very late in construction: if you find out then that you've not got enough ballast in the nose it's a convenient hidey-hole for some additional ballast.
  21. Ocean Grey was immediately preceded by Mixed Grey, for use mainly on day fighters and Mosquito bombers camouflaged as fighters. It's use came about because, as with Sky in 1940, there weren't adequate stocks of the new colour when it was stipulated in an AMO. Mixed Grey required, IIRC, 7 parts of Medium Sea Grey to 1 of Night and, predictably, produced a wide variety of shades when mixed at unit level. Ocean Grey tended to have a slightly greenish hue which may have resulted in the colour being referred to as Olive Grey early in its life. Early Shackletons, and some maritime Lancasters, Sundelands and Hastings used Medium Sea Grey upper surfaces with White undersides. Later the colours were reversed, with White on fuselage tops (and upper wing panels on Shackletons in he Far East) and Dark Sea Grey sides and undersurfaces. Some of the Shackletons and Lancasters, including the AEW Shackletons, were Dark Sea Grey overall. As Graham and PhantomBigStu have said Ocean Grey was replaced post-war by Dark Sea Grey on RAF aircraft, but not before many had appeared n overall High Speed Silver, an aluminium pigmented colour not to be confused with untainted metal surfaces. Most fighters used it (Swift, Hunter, Meteor, Sabre, Vampire, Venom, Javelin, Phantom, Lightning) in conjunction with Dark Green. In their later years Lightnings appeared in a variety of greys in various combinations but a standard finish was never applied fleet-wide. Some helicopters (Whirlwind, Wessex, Belvedere, Sea Kings (Falkland Islands), Puma and Chinook) also used Dark Sea Grey, all but the Sea Kings used it in conjunction with Dark Green.
  22. Hi Dave, I remember Bagnalls in Hanley: I had a friend studying at Keele and occasionally stayed with him, but that was 30+ years ago. I've recently escaped from the Civil Service with what little's left of my sanity but the increased time available for kit mutilation modelling that I was hoping for hasn't materialised as I'm trying to arrange gainful employment at present. Being trapped in darkest Bedfordshire, and relant on lifts from friends and public transport, I can't comment on clubs and shows in your area but there's the Milton Keynes IPMS show on April 23rd which is generally well attended by clubs and traders alike from almost all over the country. Whatver you choose for your next project you'll get plenty of interest and encouragement around here, so please crack on. Bearing in mnd your thoughts around Airfix series 1 kits might I suggest either the Defiant or Typhoon? Both are massive improvements over their predecessors from when we were younger and with plenty of alternate (and alternative: see the "What if?" mob for details) colour schemes.
  23. I'd treat those drawings with a degree of caution: I was lucky enough to get up close n personal with TS798/"MW100" at Cosford on the 7th and the fuselage side skins are straight fore and aft (no curvature, rather than parallel to the aircraft centerline). Where the wing structure passes through the fuselage the radii between the top and sides of the fuselage reduce, effectively increasing the width (or height) of the flat areas at these points and producing a taper on the relevant panels.
  24. I could be in for half a dozen, and I might know a man with a similar requirement.
  25. 71Chally your scheme for improving the tail plane is very close to the one that I've come up with, but not yet implemented, on my 1/48th kits. Now all I need to do is relocate the parts and start cementing. Bill, if you can find a copy of the late Mike Keep's drawings from Aviation News they should suffice for panel lines, etc. their biggest failure, if you can call it that, is that they are now a bit long in the tooth and don't cover the final 15 years or more of the type's development and service, particularly the Mk. 9, so beware of the aerial fits etc.