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About Moa

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    Civil planes of the Early aviation and Golden Age
  1. Caproni Ca.310 Civil

    The nose is blended with the fuselage front, masks are applied: The landing gear is installed in place, since the area where the legs go (nacelles and bellow tail) is painted in metallic colors too in this civil version. There is no diagram in the kit's box or instructions showing a front view to get the LG legs front position. They don't drop vertically nor are they perpendicular to the dihedral plane (on factory drawings). They splay out apart just a smidgen from the vertical. The kit doesn't have or shows provision for the installation of the tailwheel fork. I added a couple pieces of plastic to provide support. It puzzles me that some details are so well engineered and others are not. The tailwheel is a fork with pips for the wheels hub, but the tailwheel doesn't have dimples, so I drilled the wheel axle through, for the pips to lock in:
  2. Caproni Ca.310 Civil

    After a brief hiatus -that most likely will repeat due to house remodeling- I was able to squeeze some little work on the model. The clear nose surface is sanded smooth -since this civil version I am representing had a metal nose, not a glassed one- and then glued to the fuselage. The nose is sightly smaller than the fuselage, so you may add a former there or sand the fuselage down a bit. The canopy is glued in place. Its fit is near perfect, but needs to be squeezed laterally just a bit. Aftermarket masks have been purchased:
  3. Thanks, Norman. One of the window masks lifted, so I had to make a new one with Tamiya tape: White is airbrushed, and the props are masked to paint the yellow tips: The spinners are glued in place:
  4. Hi all Thanks for your kind words. Martian: the undercarriage is still holding, the glued mudguard providing an extra itsy-bitsy of rigidity, but the model is bulky and relatively heavy. The concerning part is the oleo strut, really to scale, may be just replacing it with a broken drill bit wrapped in coiled fine wire or tube sleeve to represent the accordion/spring. In spite of all the lead I glued in the nose, I still got a tail sitter, by far. My advice: do not add lead, but fashion a loading ramp the will hold the back of the cabin if you are posing (as I will) the tailcone open. If you are gluing that tailcone, still you have a recourse: a couple photos show a prop strut / leg, running from the area behind the cone's locking mechanism to the ground while being serviced.
  5. Ancillary parts like props, exhausts, spinners, door, are painted on their respective colors:
  6. A touch-up with more primer in the areas that have been re-worked, and hopefully when dry it will be ready for the base paint (white in this case) and then -after masking- the second color, blue. The masks kept misbehaving a bit, partially lifting an some edges during airbrushing. I recalled I had the same problem with this type of masks when building another Mikro-Mir kit, the NIAI Fanera. May it's time for Mikro-Mir to look for a an alternate source of masks or try other materials. As the masks come now in the kit, they are somewhat rigid and the adhesive is not great:
  7. Since I plan to pose the door open, an inner window "counter-mask" is fashioned and attached, allowing for the painting of the interior color. After painting, the handle detail will be hand-picked:
  8. The provided masks proved to be a bit of a disappointment. They are not really precise nor accurately follow the surfaces. They are too rigid for the compound curves, therefore they will lift front the surface at stress areas. There are no instructions for them, where they go, or numbers. But it's not hard to figure that out -after some head-scratching, though. You may need to carefully slit them to make them fit properly. Still, bad masks is better than no masks at all, and they provide a starting point. I had to supplement with Tamiya masking tape to render accurate edges and to "patch" the areas where the kit masks overlap, since they kept lifting too there. They are kind of sneaky, and may remain attached for a while, but then they will eventually unstuck in places (the surface was clean, by the way, and my fingers were not oily, so we are clear on that) so give them a thorough inspection before airbrushing.
  9. James, Martian: ;-) Some other details: The area where the oleo strut goes is too flat and the relief is not enough to hold the part securely; and the hole for the landing gear leg is too shallow: The oleo strut area is modified so a good contact can be achieved. The hole for the leg is deepened: Legs in place They are to scale, therefore they look a little feeble to me, we'll see how they fare. The locations for the flap actuators are also drilled, again for a more positive contact. The two parts that constitute the aft cone lock are glued, properly aligned by temporarily placing the aft cone in position: New navigation lights (not all the Aerovans had them) are fashioned from clear sprue and tinted. Their locations are drilled on the leading edge:
  10. Thanks Martian and Ed I am so into this little cute stubby model, but we are remodeling (for those who have been through that, no need to elaborate on contractors), and also of course there is work, so not much time for the moment for modeling. The completion shouldn't be far away, though.
  11. Managed to squeeze-in another half hour. The Pitot, flap rails and elevator balances are in place: The kit mudguards are a tad thick, you can either sand them down on a round form, or make new ones from bent styrene sheet cut to size:
  12. Thanks Graham. I think the Oxford Miniatures release is in 1/76th scale, and it is indeed one of the other models of the TB tanker.
  13. Thanks, Darby and Pete: Information to some degree to satisfy curiosity is provided in the Flight Magazine contemporary ads: https://www.flightglobal.com/pdfarchive/search.aspx?ArchiveSearchForm%24search=thompson+bros.&ArchiveSearchForm%24fromYear=1935&ArchiveSearchForm%24toYear=1940&x=22&y=11
  14. Thanks, Frankie and Replicant. The original was a not uncommon sight at flying fields, ad its peculiar shape and color makes it a good photo companion. Surely it is a somewhat odd piece of equipment, and that's why I liked the original.