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Roy vd M.

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About Roy vd M.

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  1. @triumphfan The tackiness is what makes this glue unique for me. The only other glue that has this (as far as I know) is a certain type of wood glue. But I keep getting back to Gator Glue. These 'eyebrow' parts on the Dreadnought always moved a bit with other glues (no breathing allowed) so I really felt the need for a glue that could hold them in place. Then I found out I had 'the wrong' glue as other modelers told me that I really should have bought 'Gator's Grip Glue'. So I changed the winning team and got myself a bottle of that, using it to make a cannon; comparable to the carburetor seen above. The problem with Gator's Grip was that I felt it was too thick, it isn't tacky from the start, it doesn't stick that well and... the horror... it is elastic / flexible. The cannon's barrel was posable, for example. Great for those who look for that... but I didn't want that at all. That brings me to another advantage of Everbuild's Gator Glue: after setting the parts are stiff in place. Not as stiff as CA glue, but sufficient for most purposes. A description of my decision to go back from Gator's Grip Glue to Everbuild Gator Glue can be seen here (#191).
  2. @Codger It was not easy to find out some of the numbers as described above, especially the four key numbers after the arrows in the last drawing. The computer-drawn image didn't appear to perfectly 'work' in practice so I had to correct, set, correct... until I had screwed up the part. Once more... it was mainly a matter of trial and error rather than mathematics. I am probably the least worthy of the term 'mathematician' of all people on this forum. I dropped maths when I was 16 years old (that would not be possible under current school regulations) and decided I'd go for 6 languages and history class. But as is often the case, when you're having fun and when you're really interested in something you'll understand so much better what it's all about. That's what has often helped me in modeling: I cannot swim beautifully but I'll reach the other side if I really put everything to it. To come back on the Everbuild-Gator-Glue-explanation-and-tips-offer: I started a topic about that here.
  3. Introduction Of all the glue types used in scale modeling, brown Gator glue may be least known. The reason is probably that it isn't advertised as modeling glue in the first place and that there is an alternative modeling glue that has a name resembling this one: Gator's Grip glue. That's an acrylic white glue that I happen not to like too much. Whenever you see the term "Gator Glue" on this forum, odds are the author is talking about Gator's Grip glue. To make absolutely clear that I'm talking about the Everbuild product I always say "Everbuild Gator Glue" or "Brown Gator Glue" or a combination of both. What are the advantages? - Many, many kinds of materials can be glued together; for example, metal to plastic or wood to metal. I would be hesitant to use it on paper. On the bottle it says it cannot be used on polyethylene, polypropylene, teflon or nylon but personally I would try it on the first two anyway, as described below (=very thin). Gator Glue works great for glueing photo etched metals together or to plastic. - The bond is very strong. - The glue is tacky right from the bottle. That makes it ideal to glue the tiniest of part(icle)s. On my 1/350th Dreadnought build I needed a glue that could pick up the little 'eyebrow' parts, small bent pieces of 0,1mm. copper wire, to guide them to the ship's hull. Gator Glue acts as a magnet for these tiny parts. - The tiniest of glue is sufficient for a reasonably strong bond. - You have half an hour of handling time before the glue cures. That makes it a slow-setting alternative to CA glue, for example in glueing photo etched metal parts. What are the disadvantages? - If you use too much glue, it will expand slightly. The purpose of this is that the glue can fills minor gaps in wood etc. But in modeling you usually don't want that. So use only the tiniest of glue. - Drying time of half an hour is usually not ideal. Me being a patient modeler it's no problem but if you're impatient... Well, Everbuild says that you can speed up the drying process by dampening the parts to be glued. I never tried that as I never felt the need. But the fact is this glue reacts to moist. That being an advantage in drying time, it's also the reason for the next disadvantage. - As the glue reacts to moist, its shelf life is not ideal. Probably approximately half a year after opening, it starts cocooning itself inside its bottle. This is the biggest disadvantage of this glue: I have to buy a bottle every once a year (After 7 months or so I use pliers to cut through the 'cocoon' and get to the liquid...). - The glue isn't sold everywhere. If you live in the United Kingdom you're lucky because the stuff is manufactured there. But I always have to buy a bottle on Ebay. Conclusion I use this glue for the tiniest of parts, in the tiniest of amounts. After plastic cement (for plastic) it is my favorite hobby glue -I even prefer it to CA. The scratchbuilt part of a carburetor of a Volkswagen Beetle (1/24th scale) seen on the next image consists of 24 parts, all glued together with Everbuild Gator Glue. You cannot see any glue residue because so little of the stuff is needed to get a strong bond. I only used aluminium and brass for this part. This is what the bottle looks like.
  4. @Codger and @Pouln I'm grateful for your compliments. Here the end result of the parts in place can be seen. 22. I forgot to explain why I decided to make three parts (left hand side) resp. four parts (right hand side) rather than simply one. The reasons: - More detailing is possible this way, for example the recesses of the 16 slots. - The parts can be finished in an easier way. Mainly sanding the center part (with the 12 'teeth') can be done way easier in a standalone part of course. - Separating the ring part enables a very smooth surface finish of that ring. It's possible to mill the 'teeth' while leaving the 'ring' but annoying sanding will have to be done. Also, the teeth will not have a sharp 'inside' angle because the mill bit is positioned differently. And a smaller mill bit would have to be used or else the 'inside' angle would not be sharp enough. - It is also a matter of risk management. Making one mistake (such as I did on one of the 16 slots) will not force me to start all over. Not a reason but an extra bonus is that the parts can be sanded to become thinner as Ron desired. For example the ring part I turned to a thickness as indicated by Pocher, but I hoped the model would allow that ring to be thinned slightly. Fortunately Ron told me it did. Aluminium can be glued using brown Gator Glue. If anyone plans to use it, send me a PM and I'll provide some tips on how I use this 'wonder glue'. 23. The most difficult parts to machine are of course the crown parts and the 'teeth' parts. Step plan for the crown parts: 1. Make bore of 9,8mm with drill and bore cutter, on lathe. 2. Turn outside diameter 13,25mm. 3. Face part and set hand wheels to 0. 4. Turn a groove of 0,40 wide, 0,40 deep (on drawing: 0,30). 5. Turn diameter to 12,05 except for a bit of 0,53mm. Keep checking until 0,53mm. remains. 6. Using the mill, cut 16 grooves of 1,0mm. wide and 1,6mm. deep. 7. Cut off at 2,1mm. 24. Step plan for the teeth part, using a drawing I had not yet shared: I have no idea what that all means, but what matters most is this: Here the step plan (see the previous pictures as a guide): 1) Pick a piece of aluminium rod of 6,11mm. in diameter. Mount it in a collet chuck (or regular chuck) and mount that on the dividing head of the mill. Dividing head should be vertical. 2) Fasten dividing head, fasten mill lever. 3) position the mill head all the way down and then search the zero point of the Y slide: where the mill bit would 'kiss' the part on its side. Set Y slide handwheel to zero. 4) position the mill head all the way up and search the vertical zero point: where the mill bit would 'kiss' the part on its top. Set Z handwheel to zero. 5) Move the X slide to the left so that there is clearance between part and drill bit. 6) Move Y slide 2,1mm. forwards. Move Z slide 6,1mm. downwards. Make the first cut, using the X handwheel. 7) Unfasten dividing head, rotate 1/12th (see manual of your dividing head how many rotations that is) and repeat 6). 8) After all 12 right hand cuts are made, it's time for the left hand cuts. I had to turn the dividing head 4,75 turns (40 turns=360 degrees). Fasten dividing head. 9) Set Y and Z back to zero. Then choose 5,7mm. for the X-slide and 2,06mm. for the Z-slide. Make the first cut, using the X handwheel. 10) Make the 11 other cuts and you're done on the mill. 11) Make bore and recess for the crown part, on the lathe. Not sure of the exact measurements here, they are somewhere on the drawing as seen above. Otherwise this should not be too hard to figure out. 12) Cut off the part. Good luck
  5. Ron I have to say I am happy with the way they look on the model. Hopefully not much sanding was required to get them as they are. The weathering is spot-on, just as it is on the rest of the model. The clips are a nice touch. For those interested, the thread is to be found here. Now that I know the parts fit nicely I will shortly add some more measurements to the thread so that anyone with a lathe, milling machine and dividing head will be able to machine these parts (with tender, love, care and time). I'll also explain why I decided to use three / four parts for this 'part', rather than simply one. Anyway I am very pleased that the results are liked
  6. Thanks Hendie. I enjoy working on this beetle which is great because it suppresses my anxiousness to get the Delage measurements. 234. Till now I kept myself busy with the petrol reservoir, a part that makes for about half the size of the carburetor. Unfortunately it isn't provided for by Revell. The other half is the cilinder in which air is mixed with the petrol. The tapered part was made in an alternative way. Along a height of 0,91 millimeter this part is tapered 0,355mm. (0,71 divided by two because the lathe cuts on two sides at the same time). Each 0,1mm. that's 0,04mm. What I did was rotate the right hand wheel (top slide) 0,1mm. and simultaneously the left hand wheel (cross slide), 0,04mm. With a bit of practice and hand-hand coordination this works well. 235. I use three drawings (left, front and right side) to indicate where holes need to be rilled and how large these holes need to be. For 'exact' locating I use reference photos. 236. Interim result in dryfit: Total number of hours spent: 99.
  7. @Codger That's extremely immature indeed... I never do these kinds of dryfits Honestly! * Seriously your reply makes all the sense I need to be reassured, if that were even realistically necessary**. * Only all the time. ** Quod non.
  8. I love it... as mentioned before by others the car (I have difficulty calling this a model) appears as if it was painted in one go; and the lines of the car as amended by yourself look beautiful. The paint coat itself is very convincing and looks as flawless from a distance as it did in your close-ups. Only one caveat; my eye is still caught by the not-yet-perfectly locking right hand door. I hope (and knowing you, also assume) this will eventually be in order.. (I know I mentioned that before somewhere, PM or in the thread, and seem to remember that this would be taken care of... but better be on the safe side and mention it again) Great progress again, in all. The project really looks like it's getting close to being finalized now. It will be a jewel on anyone's showcase of triumph.
  9. @Robin Lous Thanks for that assessment with which I would have to agree, and thanks for following this thread 231. Part #8, the petrol reservoir, is milled from its 'sprue'. After that the residue is sanded flat until it is very thin so that its particles can be snapped off. 232. Part #9, the brass hexagon, is machined on the mill and then cut off with the lathe. A new part #70 is easily made by punching a small disk from a can of beer. Beware, the fluid within the can has to be consumed first. 233. Parts #1 and #69 are punched bits of aluminium, part #68 was turned on the lathe. On the photo they are seen glued onto the petrol reservoir. Jointly they are the connection point of the fuel line. The front- and sides of the petrol reservoir of the carburetor are now finished. In total this subassembly consists of 22 parts. Everything was glued together with Everbuild (brown) Gator Glue. Total spent hours: 96.
  10. I can imagine not everything on Drawing 5 is as the artist saw them. These race posters were meant to impress the public and lure them to the races. On Drawing 5 I see an bright metal aluminium-like exhaust pipe, which does not correspond with the photos; just to name an example. There are also apparent mistakes in Drawing 5, such as the position of the brake linkage versus the brake lever. On the real car, these were positioned the other way around. This could indicate that the artist made a quick sketch of the car when it was on the track and that he detailed it from memory when he was in his office. The same applies with colours... did he have his complete colour palette with him on that day at the races in Monza? Did he mix the colours there (in the rain perhaps)? Or did he wait for that in his designers office? That would make more sense to me. In that case, it is only natural to not have mentally noted every colour tint of every part on the car. Hence the (probably wrong) exhaust pipe colour and the (probably wrong) brake drum colour. I can see no reason to believe Fiat would have really painted those drums red. Another problem with the drawing is... why does it not feature the number '15' on the bonnets? Is it really the car he saw at the race? Then it would have included the number 15 I am sure. Add to that the question why this poster would have been made after the race. Principally these posters are meant as advertisment before the race? In that case the poster would have been designed and printed, let's say, at least a week before the race. The designer would not have seen the car in its red body colour, as the car was painted red on the day of the race (this seems to be communis opinio in this thread, although I have never been convinced of it). So to conclude: the way I see it, this poster was made at least a week before the race, as an advertisement for the race to be held. The race colours were probably as the artist was informed by Fiat. Idem the racing number. It was a rainy day. Photo 9 clearly shows the amount of dirt the car has gathered during the race.
  11. I have to agree with Robin here. For photographing my practice work on aluminium parts it is often impossible to use the standard iPhone settings. I will have to adjust the iPhone camera settings or else all you see is a blob of shiny metal that looks like chrome or shiny silver. Even blocking the natural or artificial light won't help. I also think (although we can never know for sure) that there would have been little use for Fiat to chrome these parts. It would have only have added to the weight and would have also cost extra. Even on the Delage 15-S-8, a car that was intended to not only be fast but also look exquisite (and developed by a race team who had a much larger budget than Fiat), there was very little chrome. On that car you can see proof of weight reduction everywhere, even in the tiniest of details.
  12. @SlowQ A bit ashamed to admit, but this beautiful kit and its superb aftermarket detail part have become the victim of my new love for lathe and mill. As a side project I became interested in researching the history, looks and dimensions of the Fiat 806. I wasn't even going to build that. Then, I was going to build it. Then, I gave up on building it, to start work on another legendary Grand Prix car, the Delage 806. As soon as I have the dimensions of that care (hopefully this week) I will resume working on the Delage. The MP4/6, beautiful as it is in real life and as a kit, will remain a future project... Regarding the Thunder Valley aftermarket parts, I only have: - the 'Calsonic' photo etched sheets which, on second thought, I was not going to use because as it turns out the text wasn't featured on the car during the race season; as well as: - the cast metal parts. Quality seems to be nice but not perfect. Here are some of the parts:
  13. @Schwarz-Brot I might do so with the Delage, but not with this side project. Beside, I'm not sure the quality of the etched metal product would be much improved, among other things because the parts would also have to be sanded afterwards to get the curves. It's not possible to achieve that in photo etching. Beside, I'm having a lot of fun working on this carburetor An advantage of photo etching with these matters is that it costs less time if several parts are processed simultaneously.
  14. Using the step plan as set out in my last post, this is what's in the photos we have (excluding Photo 9 HR which also gives a good view).
  15. @Olivier de St Raph That is the full-screen version of Photo 3 as featured in the opening post. This is a larger part of it: What you need to do to get this on your computer is: - In t he opening post, right-click on Photo 3 and choose "Open in new tab". - In the new tab, click on the photo to get a full size view. - Then, right-click on the picture and choose save. Most pictures we collected have larger versions. Whenever I found a better picture I replaced the original one. I had no idea you did not know this (I mentioned these instructions in the opening post but maybe you forgot or read over it). I'd recommend you to grab a bag of popcorn and enjoy all the high resolution material we have!