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Urshimato

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  1. Hello Olivier It looks to me like the swing arm is not mounted correctly. I say this because I cannot see the top of the shock absorber where it should fit to the main frame. That also looks like the 15mm you need to gain. I hope this helps. Wayne
  2. Hello There is a YouTube channel called NIGHT ROT ROOM he has built a FW14b and it’s amazing, also, he has recently started a mp4/6 with the top studio kit. There is no narration, he’s Japanese I think. The videos are good and worth a look sometime. Wayne
  3. You are very welcome Olivier, pleased to be of some assistance to your terrific build. Wayne
  4. Hello Olivier I sent you an email recently about creating these decals and you said there were things you didn’t understand. See if this makes things more understandable for you. This describes the procedure for one decal, repeat theses steps for the number of decals you have to view (stepped up on the sheet). You will need white decal film. This will also require two passes through your printer. 1/ print on your decal sheet a circle that indicates where the gold will need to be. This is only an indication so needs to be just barely visible. 2/ airbrush your gold around this circumference directly onto the decal sheet, allow extra gold inside and outside of this line. 3/ when the gold has dried put the sheet back through your printer and print your black elements, you now have in this order, a gold outer ring, inside the gold a black ring with gold lettering. The black from the printer still creates a mask for the gold. This is why you made the gold bigger than was necessary, this also takes into account any miss register you may get between passes through your printer. Inside this black ring will be a white ring that will be the white part of the side wall, following this will be a solid black centre. Make sure you have an indication of where the the centre is. 4/ using a compass cutter you can cut your decal to the finished diameter. I would recommend this be done in one continuous motion with just enough force to cut through the decal film, there is no need to cut through the backing sheet. 5/ apply your decal and when dry remove the excess centre portion. Any questions you may have are welcome kind regards Wayne ps. I have sent an email
  5. Hi Olivier I have sent you an email with a coloured picture. It is an artistic impression and is the best I can find. Wayne
  6. Hi Olivier I did not see that picture before I sent my reply to you. Now that I have seen it, it appears to be possible to replicate. Could you please give me details of the colours involved. I can see the white circle that is now against the rim. The Firestone 500 lettering is that still gold? The other markings on the sidewall are they coloured or raised (higher} than the sidewall. The more details you can give me will make it easier for me to work out a plan. Please note, I am a printer for 36years and am combining this knowledge with modelling so if there are things you don’t understand tell me what they are and I will be able to explain them in more detail for you. NZ is in lockdown for another week or two now so I will devote a lot of my time to getting your tyres correct. I am finding this enjoyable and is giving me something to focus on. Wayne ps. my own projects can wait. Let’s get this right.
  7. I cannot take all the credit for this as it was Lvp that planted the seed in my brain with his decal suggestion. I just took it a bit further. So thanks to him also you have your desired result. Wayne
  8. Hello Olivier I have another solution for your consideration. Your home printer will be making a gold from CMYK which is not a true metallic, have a look under magnification and you will see your gold is made up of many dots. My suggestion is to create a decal with the Firestone lettering reversed out so that you are printing a black band with see through letters on clear decal paper. You then apply gold to the tyre and your decal becomes basically a mask, allowing the gold to show through the clear areas. I hope this makes sense. Wayne
  9. Hello. I would like to recommend a YouTube channel to you and whom ever else may be interested. He has done extensive testing of many paint brands. One of his videos is dedicated to chrome paint sprayed over a variety of base colours. He has done all the hard work for us, his channel name is Barbatos Rex and is well worth a look
  10. This rebuild will probably show all you are looking for https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/f40-lm-restoration.396915/page-5 Kind regards Wayne
  11. Blue helmet + red gloves = Jacky Ickx. Thats my guess anyway. Nice build too. Wayne
  12. Are you a surgeon? With cuts as clean and fine as those you should be.
  13. They're amazing, and look great side by side.
  14. Hello, this is my first post. My name is Wayne and I am from New Zealand. I have been quietly following the many terrific builds on this site gathering information on techniques and ways to overcome problems as they arrise. Thank you to all. There is no doubt that Gerald Wingrove is a master craftsman I too have his books, by his own admission there are details he omits, operating steering, wheels that turn for example. If you haven't already please take the time to look at the work of Roger Zimmerman. The detail is staggering for 1/12, working electric windows and the master he made for the tyre are two standout features to me as well as the grill, headlights, tail lights, just all of it. Wouldn't it be nice if he were to publish a book as it would sit nicely next to those of Gerald Wingrove. Judge for yourselves. http://forums.aaca.org/topic/145354-construction-of-a-continental-mark-ii-model-scale-112/page-1
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