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silver911

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  1. Great to see my favourite scratchbuilder back in action with another 'beast' of a subject 😮 Lot's to learn from a master. Happy 2024 mate. Ron
  2. As the old saying goes....."A thing of beauty is a joy to behold" "Poetry in motion" would also be apt for an engine maybe 😃 One word works for me...stunning. Respect Ron
  3. Great to see you return to this mate...look forward to more. Ron
  4. Hi Dale, whist not McClaren specific, you may find some useful ideas from two of my threads, although the BT44b does use the DFV...... If you need specific help with fixturees and fittings etc., feel free to message me. Cheers, Ron
  5. Definitely 'Museum' quality in every way Poul. Respect Ron
  6. One word...'sublime'...Mr C will have a big smile on his face at this masterclass of results. R
  7. If I may...regards lubricants for tapping/drilling etc. ...oil (3in1/engine/gearbox/sewing machine etc.)...grease...washing up liquid...airbrush lube (although both of those are more suited to plastics) are all suitable candidates for hand drilling/tapping...and I have used all of them on my Proxxon Mill as well as by hand over the years with excellent results. Candle wax/beeswax will also work with plastics...and any of the mentioned can be washed away with white spirit/meths/IPA to avoid issues with glues to avoid the previously mentioned problem with plastic disintegrating...although I have never encountered that one. Ron
  8. Regards breaking 'taps'...the golden rule...especially for white metal...is never use them dry! White metal is a 'composite'...meaning it contains particles of harder metal...the softer particles clog the tap...whilst the harder ones are what cause it to break. One tip I can offer...do not use WD40 as a lubricant!...it was never designed to be such...mearly a rust inhibitor to keep water at bay...and to break down resitance to binding of joined metals. Ron
  9. In the main I used the 1.4mm...however...I rarely used the kit screws for any of my builds (unless they were totally hidden)...preferring to replace them with correct scale and type bolts/nuts etc. Hope this helps. Ron
  10. This might help.....https://www.amazon.co.uk/Metric-Model-Making-Watchmaker-mm-2-5/dp/B01M4P13FE Used this set for all my builds 😎 Ron
  11. Bravo Dan...yet another 'masterclass' from the maestro. Respect Ron
  12. That's modelling at the highest level. Very much enjoyed every update, and was very honoured to play a small part. Incredible work mate. R
  13. A good supplier of small bolts in the UK....search their shop for more sizes....... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/362894347603?hash=item547e304d53:g:pkIAAOSw3FZjde9u&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4PPa9F5wTETrMku%2FeTYpqyLs6EerYU9Hd3lICk130IgvivhEKf4MUxc1xU1f0yAH%2BKJyWK9II4th7gEDx5eZ%2FT3IVxdEBSWZKa9rx6fcFMuMJ5etVqSWMAwGNmCrjkxkaxPPxh1aVC2tZvTlRIUYRbNzqwxFXe96AoIPCv2G%2FqU0VPFM6bI4M6Dktut%2Fas2U5WkzOKcLpn1Hpboj%2BUM9VjZCCSrM6wIIWtYHA%2FQQFUo5uB3S%2Fj5AWK7027xfQwsdkKIf8W12v2qbRv0LA6e350qxA5nM%2BRXJxgNGPVhc4ADg|tkp%3ABk9SR6TM6dG6YQ Ron
  14. Every modern Pocher kit suffers from incorrect screw lengths. Looking at the pictures of the finished DFV/Rear Suspension...it appears to suffer from another aspect of modern Pocher's also...the dismal lack of detail !!! My Ducati thread may help you with references to replacement bolts and fittings etc...... Ron
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