"Klear"

[rob challis]

Hi,

I see references to "Klear" which every one seems to apply to their models once painted.

What is "Klear" and where do I get some?

Is it different/ used additionally to say varnish?

Also, when does one apply it and should one polish the paintwork before or after application?

Can it be used with acrylics?

Thanks for your help.

Kind regards,

Rob

[gengriz]

Hi Rob,

Klear is simply Johnsons liquid floor polish - its a clear acrylic water-based self polishing liquid that is exceptionally easy to apply (by brush normally, but some spray it) and gives a smooth glossy finish. its so thin that it self levels - i.e you dont get brush marks (although runs and bubbles are possible if applied too thickly).

If you have been in the Brit military you may know it as ME7, and yes it can be used to "bull" boots, but dont get caught!.

I use it on most of my models nowadays as a coating before I apply the decals (stops silvering around the edges) - I have seen others use it to actually stick the decals on. I also use it as a top coat for glossy models - 3-4 coats gives a glossy sheen - 4-6 coats a deep gloss. It is also superb for making canopies/transparent parts look more transparent, glossier and (by some trick of the light/refraction) thinner. It is pretty mild as a chemical so can go on over enamels, lacquers and acrylics without problems. You can then coat/paint over the top of it as well (e.g. Matt varnish). No need to polish first, but allowing the paint to dry properly first, then cleaning and de-dusting are essential. I would, however, caution using it over white, as it can yellow very slightly with age.

I bought my last (1Ltr I think) bottle from Sainsburys; the one before that from Tesco. However I understand it is getting harder to find nowadays (less people have polished floors) and that some different formulas my be being sold in its place. Johnsons make it under a range of different brand names in other countries (Future, for example).

HTH

FredT

Edited February 25, 2009 by gengriz

[rob challis]

Hi Rob,

Klear is simply Johnsons liquid floor polish - its a clear acrylic water-based self polishing liquid that is exceptionally easy to apply (by brush normally, but some spray it) and gives a smooth glossy finish. its so thin that it self levels - i.e you dont get brush marks (although runs and bubbles are possible if applied too thickly).

If you have been in the Brit military you may know it as ME7.

I use it on most of my models nowadays as a coating before I apply the decals (stops silvering around the edges) - I have seen others use it to actually stick the decals on. I also use it as a top coat for glossy models - 3-4 coats gives a glossy sheen - 4-6 coats a deep gloss. It is also superb for making canopies/transparent parts look ore transparent, glossier and (by some trick of the light/refraction) thinner.

I bought my last (1Ltr I think) bottle from Sainsburys; the one before that from Tesco. However I understand it is getting harder to find nowadays (less people have polished floors) and that some different formulas my be being sold in its place. Johnsons make it under a range of different brand names in other countries (Future, for example).

HTH

FredT

That's great Fred thanks.

Does one polish the paitwork before or after application?

How long does it take to dry?

Kind regards,

Rob

[gengriz]

That's great Fred thanks.

Does one polish the paitwork before or after application?

How long does it take to dry?

Kind regards,

Rob

Sorry Rob, I missed the polish bit out of my reply - see my additions to the original post. Takes about 30 mins to dry if recoating. Leave it overnight before an enamel coat on top though. For canopies, dip them in it (I use my spring captive tweezers) then put on a bot of paper to dry. (Dont drop it in the bottle though!)

FredT

[zeke]

And don't buy the stuff in the white bottles, that's the 'new' Klear, you've got to get the clear bottles...down my way Sainsburys is the only ones who still have the good old stuff...but if you can't find it locally then scan the net for it as there's loads of on-line shops that still have stocks of the old style Klear.

[rob challis]

And don't buy the stuff in the white bottles, that's the 'new' Klear, you've got to get the clear bottles...down my way Sainsburys is the only ones who still have the good old stuff...but if you can't find it locally then scan the net for it as there's loads of on-line shops that still have stocks of the old style Klear.

That is very helpful Fred-Thank you.

Kind regards.

Rob

[Dave Fleming]

Just a note - it's NOT a polish or a wax. It's an acrylic coating - effectively a varnish for floors!

[Doug Rogers]

With regard to dropping the canopy in the bottle, I usually use the lid as a vessel and pour some in to that, so if you do drop the canopy in it's easily reachable.

I use it before, during and after decaling too. I couldn't believe how well it sucks them down onto the paintwork, looks like they're sprayed on.

[magpie]

Been using Klear for years and couldn't manage without it. I give the whole model a coat of Klear, brushed on. Wait a few minutes for this to dry then put more onto the area where the decal is going and then slide the decal into the pool of Klear. You don't get much time to move it about before it sticks. Brush more Klear over the top while still wet, have to work quickly and avoid runs and puddles. You get NO silvering and when its fully dry it's pulled right down into the surface detail and looks painted on.

[rob challis]

Just a note - it's NOT a polish or a wax. It's an acrylic coating - effectively a varnish for floors!

Thanks DAve.

Kind regards,

Rob

Been using Klear for years and couldn't manage without it. I give the whole model a coat of Klear, brushed on. Wait a few minutes for this to dry then put more onto the area where the decal is going and then slide the decal into the pool of Klear. You don't get much time to move it about before it sticks. Brush more Klear over the top while still wet, have to work quickly and avoid runs and puddles. You get NO silvering and when its fully dry it's pulled right down into the surface detail and looks painted on.

Thank you all-that is really helpful.

Kind regards,

Rob

[Notdoneyet]

Rob,

The Complete Future should be of some assistance to you.

HTH,

Ian

[zeke]

What an excellent article!...great stuff, thanks for linking us to that one, Ian...

my only reservation in it is this line:

"Recently there has been speculation on the various forums that the formula for Future Floor Finish had been changed. This is false, the formula has not been changed since 1992 when S. C. Johnson added fragrance to the formula."

this was written in 2007 I guess from the dates in the article, so I'm afraid that Klear in the UK has definitely been changed and it's now that damned Pledge Multi-Surface Wax...POX!

[entlim]

As Andy Mullen recently found out and observed...........

[timbo33]

I've just bought 6 bottles from Asda.....

[Filler]

Now that the original Johnsons Klear is as rare as rocking horse droppings (I started modelling just in time!) can anyone tell me what the alternatives are? I almost get the impression that once people’s stockpiles have been used up (or have spoiled in storage), that aircraft modelling is finished!

I take it that a model sprayed with Tamiya or Gunze acrylic paints and decaled but not coated with Klear or similar is going to look rubbish.

[Gajman]

Now that the original Johnsons Klear is as rare as rocking horse droppings (I started modelling just in time!) can anyone tell me what the alternatives are? I almost get the impression that once people’s stockpiles have been used up (or have spoiled in storage), that aircraft modelling is finished!

I take it that a model sprayed with Tamiya or Gunze acrylic paints and decaled but not coated with Klear or similar is going to look rubbish.

I stopped using klear a while ago and have been using the Revell Acrylic varnishes. The gloss varnish is just as good as klear and I've had no problems with it.

You need to experiment with the matt varnish though as it is not as forgiving to things like wrong air pressure, or sparying too much on, as the gloss varnish.

[Stonar]

I'm still using Klear and have a couple of bottles stashed in the loft,enough to keep me going for a long time! I've always figured that when it runs out or spoils I would simply use a gloss acrylic varnish as above. Is there any reason why that wouldn't serve the same purpose as Klear as far as a smooth surface for decals goes?

Not sure what I'll do with my canopies. Does the acrylic varnish work on them? We all know how good a dip in Klear makes them look. I've even used it as an adhesive for joining clear parts (like the armoured glass to a windshield)

Steve

[Gajman]

Is there any reason why that wouldn't serve the same purpose as Klear as far as a smooth surface for decals goes?

Not that I can see. Of course klear is a lot cheaper than acrylic varnish, but that's the only advantage that I can see

Not sure what I'll do with my canopies. Does the acrylic varnish work on them? We all know how good a dip in Klear makes them look.

I have sprayed my test kit canopy with the gloss varnish and it looked okay. But admittedly it was just a 'I wonder what will happen if ...' moment. So I haven't actually compared the results of a gloss varnished canopy against a klear dipped canopy.

[Filler]

Can the Revell Acrylic varnish be applied by brush in the way Klear could. Being new to this I find all this quite stressful(ish). The brush application of Klear sounded like about the only foolproof procedure in the whole modelling process - and it's gone - not fair!!

[Doug Rogers]

I'm sure you could brush it, you might want to thin it a bit, probably best to experiment on something first to check the results.

[Gajman]

Can the Revell Acrylic varnish be applied by brush in the way Klear could. Being new to this I find all this quite stressful(ish). The brush application of Klear sounded like about the only foolproof procedure in the whole modelling process - and it's gone - not fair!!

I had no problems with brushing the gloss varnish on. I thinned it considerably and after two coats I was happy with the result. Again, I haven't done the comparing one coat of gloss varnish against one coat of klear type tests.

I did get streaks when brushing the matt varnish on which was one of the main reasons I decided to force myself to start using my airbrush more. Of course it could just be that the streaks I experienced with the matt varnish are due to my lack of brushing skills.

I have no reservations in recommending the gloss varnish, but the matt varnish is trickier (but in my experience that has always been the case with matt varnishes).

Bottom line, please do your own tests before taking my word for it

[Filler]

'scuse my ignorance but what would you thin it with? I really am out my depth. As mentioned somewhere else, I just used to prise the top off a tin of humbrol and brush it on neat. Once dried, that was it; finished.

[keefr22]

'scuse my ignorance but what would you thin it with? I really am out my depth. As mentioned somewhere else, I just used to prise the top off a tin of humbrol and brush it on neat. Once dried, that was it; finished.

Thin what with, the Klear or the 'alternative' gloss varnish? If you're talking about Klear it doesn't need thinning for brushing, for airbrushing a small amount of isopropyl alcohol (available fron chemists) helps breaks down the surface tension, but it's already as thin as water, so very little thinning is needed. All manufacturers of model acrylics that I'm aware of produce their own gloss varnish, all of which can be used to provide the gloss coat needed for decalling. And they will all produce their own thinners for the varnish, but if they are water based like Lifecolor, Vallejo, revell etc, you can usually use tapwater, or if you live in a 'hard' water area, distilled water from somewhere like Halfords. Speaking of Halfords, they also produce a clear laquer that while it's a bit fierce used from the spray can, can give excellent results if you mist it on in a few fine coats. Tamiya & Gunze also produce very good clear gloss varnishes in spray cans, but beware of spraying the Tamiya one on a decalled model as it can eat the decals if sprayed too heavily. All the gloss coats in spray cans can also be decanted into a small glass jar to be used through an airbrush. Tamiya acrylic gloss varnish from the small glass bottles is also excellent if airbrushed, thinned with their own thinner or isoprop alcohol.

I think the announcement of the death of modelling if Klear disappears is a little bit of an exageration!!!

Keef

[Catbird]

My local Sainsburys has the old formula KLEAR in stock, so has my local ASDA. So theres still some knocking around.

[Jazzy Jase]

Still loads in my local Morrisons, despite me buying up 10 bottles.

My main concern over the disappearance of Klear is for canopies and other clear parts as it makes them so shiny and immune to superglue fumes. I'm not sure that gloss varnishes would work as well.