magpie

I'm old enough to remember the old Airfix enamel paints in glass jars but I've been using acrylics for many years now. I brush paint using Vallejo, Lifecolor, Revell Aqua, Xtracrylics, and Games Workshop. No special primer. Any Humbrol acrylic spray can will do. Light grey or get a closer match to the final colour. A light coat, it etches into the plastic and won't scratch off. Dries in minutes and provides an excellent key for the top coats. I have several different colour cans I just use for primer/undercoats. For example if it's WW2 RAF I'll spray Beige green undersides and then dark earth uppers, no masking, just a quick squirt top and bottom. Then brush paint the camouflage colours. Never had any trouble.

Theses ones are very good https://www.pheondecals.com/48008-bristol-f2b-fighters-western-front-aces.html

Cheers John Am tempted to get another and convert it to a Hart. Any plans to produce a kit, or maybe just do the extra bits as a conversion set with new decals? And thanks to everyone for their kind comments. The photos were just quick snaps late last night after I had just finished the model. I must say what a pleasure the kit was to build. I had my doubts about the etched interplane struts but they are strong and work very well. Fixing the upper wing was so easy. Silver finish was Plastikote enamel 109S Silver bought from Wilkinsons. Front end polished up a bit and the back end varnished over to ger some contrast between the fabric and metal areas. Ed

Just finished this. Aeroclub 48th scale Hawker Demon and Pheon Decals. Pretty much out of the box. Lewis gun replaced with spare from a Roden kit. Oil cooler is scratchbuilt from plasticard because I lost the kit part. Panel lines and control surface breaks were scribed over to make them a bit deeper.

Hi JackFlash I agree with everything you have said. In my younger days I was building Revell and Airfix kits and following Ray Rimell's articles in Scale Models. I never dreamed, expected or predicted this golden age of WW1 modelling. I just hope it continues. Ed

Looks like a common problem with matt varnishes. Sometimes they dry with a white frosty finish. :shithappens: Don't panic! Try overcoating with Klear again, this generally restores the depth of colour. I don't know how well it will work with the canopy. The Airfix kit has early and late canopies if you feel like building another 109E. Then re-varnish it matt again. I like to use Humbrol acrylic matt varnish in a spray can. I have had problems with frosting if there is any moisture in the air. Spraying outside on a warm sunny day seems to work best for me.

Coming on nicely. What paints did you use? I spotted some Revel paint jars there.

Hi Trekker ed Keep at it. A lot of people read posts without making any comments. I built this kit when it first came out and it gave me a lot of problems. Typical Eduard well detailed but over-engineered and a tendency to use several parts where one would have done. The engine cowlings are a good example of unnecessary complication. By the way, none of the builds I've seen so far have mentioned the footstep and handhold is moulded on both sides of the fuselage. The pilot would have a hard time getting in from the starboard side! Ed

Here is a picture I took at Hendon a few years ago. Looking forward to seeing this model finished. Ed

Hi I used to like Halfords white primer but now undercoat with standard Humbrol acrylic in spraycans. I generally use matt white. Sometimes light grey or light green. These paints adhere to plastic and dry quickly and flat matt. I brush paint most of my stuff and I prefer to use Xtracylics, Lifecolor and Games Workshop paints. Personally not too keen on Revell Aqua. Ed

Yes I have spare sheet. PM sent. Ed

Agree Plastikote metallics are nice paints. Silver 109S is perfect for aluminium doped finishes. Ed

Hi and welcome to the forums. That's a very impressive cockpit. Ed

Just received decals in this morning's post. Quick delivery and they are very very good.

Great idea just ordered a set in both scales. Ed