Notdoneyet

We made the trip up from Montreal to Gatineau Executive Airport (just outside Ottawa) for the Wings Over Gatineau show on Saturday. The show is hosted by Vintage Wings of Canada a non profit organisation dedicated to the preservation of vintage aircraft - the show is the Canadian equivalent of Duxford's Flying Legends I guess. This year this fabulous show took place in perfect weather. On entering the show there was a lovely array of aircraft in the colours of the British Commonwealth Air Training Plan - this wonderful Fleet Finch being one There were some interesting exhibits on (not so) static display including this Canadair CL-215 Water Bomber The Discovery Air "Golden Hawk" Sabre (more of her later .....) The flying display started with a couple of sedate participants, firstly the VWoC Lysander and then the VWoC Swordfish VWoc Hurricane VWoc P-40N Kittyhawk Rick Volker gave an impressive display in his Sukhoi Su-26 The "Golden Hawk" Sabre "Look no hands" Joined by the VWoc Spitfire LFXVI Spitfire LFXVI solo Yak 52T and Nanchang CJ-6 display VWoc P-51D Pitts S-2B Two thirds of the Canadian Harvard Display Team A-26 Invader The first of two T-28 Trojans and the second The VWoc F4U Corsair "Victory Flight" - Lancaster, Mustang, Kittyhawk, Spitfire LFXVI and Hurricane Lancaster solo To close the show ........... The Snowbirds Mirror pair Montreal drivers Now why is it at every airshow you get the "perfect shot" framed and just as you press the shutter some bozo comes along and gets in the shot After the show "officially" ended this CF-18 decided to gatecrash with a few missed approaches before landing My thanks to all at VWoC who worked to make this show possible and so very enjoyable. Thanks for looking and for any comments you wish to make. Ian

Greg, Very nice result for your second build after returning to the hobby. Well done!! One observation, if I may, you should remove the 4 aerials sticking down from the bottom of each wing tip. They were part of the night fighter radar installation (where the aerials were above and below the wing tips) and were not fitted on the bomber variant you have modelled. Once again congrats on a very nice build. Ian

Due a year in which non modelling related mishaps/disasters/crises have occurred on an alarmigly regular basis my modelling output for the year stands at a whopping 1 completed model. Without further ado I present the lovely 1/48th AlleyCat Jindivik 103b - my tribute to the 11 years I spent shooting missiles at them ....... Ian

Tony, That bit is incorrect - it was standard from 1941 see Edgar's post in this thread. HTH, Ian

I'm in with Vulcan XM597 in 4 Shrike, Black Buck 6 configuration for starters and maybe a Victor and/or Valiant too ....... Ian

Tim, That would be MJ255 (VZ@S) of 412sqn flown by F.O. H.G. Garwood. The photo that you recall is in the Watermark decals instructions - see my build of MJ255 here. HTH, Ian

Gmat, Nope, it is 1/72nd. HTH, Ian

Dan, Yes. HTH, Ian

Bill, The bands were 24" wide and did not cover the flaps. As for their position I hope these shots of my STILL unfinished T4 help. HTH, Ian

Tony, Ultracast do a superb set. HTH, Ian

Bill, You are indeed correct - got my port & stbd mixed up. As there is only one chin pod on the GR1/1A anyhoo I'm sure Supertom knew what I was on about ......... My original answer has now been corrected. Cheers, Ian

No, the linescan pod is the cigar shaped pod behind the nose wheel bay. The little chin pod on the starboard side is the LRMTS (Laser Rangefinder and Marked Target Seaker). HTH, Ian

Den, Yup, [Punch & Judy] That's the Way to Do it! [/Punch & Judy] Ian

Campbell, You're doomed!! It's a lovely little kit that build up nicely. Drop me a line if you need any help/references as I have loads from my build. Dave Collins (aka Mr DH Hornet) was immensely helpful with my build. BTW it's a Hornet F Mk.1 you are building, not a Sea Hornet. Yup, I only had a very minor amount of thinning to do on the front of the wing root recess (IIRC) to get the cockpit to fit. Cheers, Ian

dr-gn, Place a strip of masking tape on the wing and use it as an alighment guide, like this :- HTH, Ian

dr_gn, No! Apply a piece of transfer vinyl over the top of the entire cross mask on the backing sheet, then lift the whole mask off the sheet and position on the model. Once positioned remove the transfer vinyl from the top of the mask, burnish the mask down with a cotton bud then remove the white elements and proceed as I described in my first post. HTH, Ian

dr_gn, Ah I understand. Yup, "my" method will prevent the "sandwich effect" - I've never had undesirable outlines such as in Den's example in the years I've used the method I described. It has given perfect results every time. HTH, Ian

dr_gn, If I understand your method correctly, you will be trying to accurately place an L-shaped white mask element in place with only the outer mask outline as a positioning guide. This could lead to the white element being misaligned resulting in a skewed, lopsided cross. The method I outlined will prevent this by precicely locating the L-shaped element as placing the L-shaped element back in the position from which it came on the model eliminates the risk of misalignment. You can see and feel the raised edge if the element is not located properly. HTH, Ian

dr_gn, The mask elements in place on the model act as locators for the elements being replaced back on the model so they can be accurately and precisely repositioned back where they came from. This accurate repositioning avoids "shadows". I can post some pictures for you if my description isn't clear. HTH, Ian

dr_gn, Something else ............... Assuming you have already sprayed the camo colours :- Put the whole cross mask including outline on the model Carefully remove the white elements and return them to the backing sheet (they will be required later) Spray the white When the white is dry carefully reapply the white mask element and then remove the black mask element from the model Spray the black Remove masking when black is dry If you have not sprayed the camo colours:- Spray whole area for cross white Put the whole cross mask including outline on the model when the white is dry Carefully remove the black and return to the backing sheet (they will be required later) Spray the black When the black is dry carefully reapply the black mask element and then remove the outline mask element from the model leaving the black and white elements of the cross masked Spray the camo Remove masking when camo is dry to reveal the crosses HTH, Ian

As far as I Know AFAIK is As Far As I Know .......... HTH, Ian

Chris, How many spokes? (0, 3, 4 or 5) Ian

Andy, It's a RAIDS (Rangeless Airborne Instrumented Debriefing System) pod used in ACM training. Use of the RAIDS pod means that a dedicated instrumented range is no longer required to record air combat manoeuver training sorties. HTH, Ian

John, Thanks for the kind words, the Aeroclub Gnat is a gem of a kit and I also hope it is re-released soon. Another Dayglo tip - if you are applying decals (eg roundels) over the dayglo be sure to mask their position with a very slightly undersize mask over the white undercoat before the dayglo is sprayed. This will leave a white backing to the decal when the painting is complete and masking removed. If you don't do this the dayglo is such a stong colour it will show through the decal giving it a orange hue. HTH, Ian

John, Tamiya Fluorescent Orange (PS-24) decanted from the rattle can, thinned 50:50 with lacquer (cellulose) thinners and airbrushed over a white undercoat gives a superb Dayglo Orange IMHO. I used it on my Aeroclub Gnat - pics of which are here in RFI. HTH, Ian