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Clear Prop Ninak


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On 6/17/2023 at 5:11 PM, Paul Thompson said:

As I said, mine just went when I picked it up. I thought it would be a dodgy repair because I couldn't drill a fine enough hole to pin it, but mine survived with some Revell Contacta and a smidgen of gel CA. Survived rigging, still in one piece.

 

Paul.

I only used (a liberal helping of) Tamiya glue this time: put enough to dissolve and fuse the halves together. Didn’t bother with a dovel since there is another even weaker section further inboard anyway. I’m putting my hope to the rigging: I make it structural, and there’s lots of it here to keep her together. 

Edited by Torbjorn
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A wee (<-hopefully) issue with the dihedral - I made it too small, should be equal to that of the too wing.

 

3uS3DLA.jpg

 

Will have to loosen the wingroot joint with some green stuff and see if I can correct it without snapping. Both sides have the same issue.

 

The cabane strut solution is excellent by the way: strong and gives you correct location, so they can easily carry the top wing by themselves.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Looks like a great kit and you're doing great things with it. I love the pe instrument panels. 

I have the resin one so won't be buying this, but the detail parts could be very useful for other projects!

 

Ian

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  • 1 month later...
On 6/25/2023 at 10:00 PM, AaCee26 said:

I have built Clear-Prop I-16. It was cast in quite soft but very brittle plastic. Looks like this one is similar 😢 Wishing they change the plastic type!

 

Cheers,

 

AaCee

It has turned out to cause issues, as it were. Back from summer absence, I’ve started with the rigging. The hard and brittle plastic does make great details, but is correspondingly unsuited for strut material. They snap if you apply some pressure, which I tend to do when tightening the wires. The good thing is that the fit is excellent, so not much forcing is necessary, but I’ve still managed to snap two strut. 

 

Did I say the outer struts are supposed go be narrower than the inner pairs? They kit struts aren’t, which is the only real inaccuracy ob the kit. I made them narrower, after measuring the WNW struts, but this didn’t help to cure the brittleness issue - two out of four broke right off. I’ve glued them together, better knowledge defeated by sheer laziness. I should’ve made new from a better materal. Oh well, here we are. 

 

There is one more issue with the plastic: all other kit plastic I’ve worked with has happily smelted when a blob of Tamiya green stuff has been pooled in the little placing holes for struts - the Clear prop plastic is annoyingly resistant. This makes it more difficult to fasten the damn things and I’ve resorted to CA (gasp!).

 

No pictures today, but by the weekend it’s either do or, well, not finish on time.

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On 8/26/2023 at 8:37 AM, CliffB said:

Good luck with the final push :popcorn:

I’ll need it, going to be tight.

 

Most rigging done, was a bit nervewrecking. Now lots of touchups, and finding missing/lost/mislaid pieces!

kTe97of.jpg

 

Edit: it *is* brown in real life. Looking at the photo makes me question my eyesight.

Edited by Torbjorn
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On 8/29/2023 at 4:59 PM, Paul Thompson said:

The same shade of PC10 can be brownish one day, greenish the next, if you've got it right. Depends on the lighting. According to various prophets and sages. And me.

 

Paul.

It is certainly schizophrenic, today it feels green; I shall take this as a proof of authenticity.

 

I might actually finish this on time. Started filking the holes and cutting excess rigging now that everything is in place. Apparently I knocked off the tailskid at some point, not being able to locate it I made a quick replacement, to be painted in situ.

tXHg0Tl.jpg

 

I’ve got two tips for today: the white in the roundels are borderline transparent, one may want to paint a base. Second, add the decals on the tyres *before* you attach the wheels. I failed at both these tasks.

 

The gun is on, there is some nice PE for the gun ring. Only the finish left now.

 

qqbhwvK.jpg

 

Edited by Torbjorn
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