Torbjorn

Just joking, I’m too stingy to buy something else anyway. But it’s nice with a warning, so I know what to expect.

Why did you have to say that? I was just about to sign up with one of those

Oh, yes, what I nice surprise. As long as it has a propellor in 1/72 I’m in!

Small update. The forward upper plate depicted in the previous post was binned as it was slightly too narrow and another clothespin sacrificed to make a new mold. But first the black frontal grille sort of thing, shown on photo a few posts up, was prepared. It consists of four pairs bars which have an odd ski-slope shape if seen from the side. I decided to carve this out of a plate that was first plunge-moulded to attain the ski-slope. Pictures may be better at describing this: Mould material - birch stock. Ski slopes were carved/filed in each direction, here pre-marked by pencil: Plastic sheet of suitable thickness was heated and pressed onto it. An old drillbit was drilled through the centre to help keep it in place while cutting out the bars. The bars were marked and small holes drilled: These small holes represent the location of all curved cut-outs: they were subsequently drilled with appropriate diameter drills: The cut-outs were then made by straight cuts with a knife, tangentially between the holes and voilà: The sides are ugly but due to the moulding they had to be cut away and replaced by plastic sticks (20 thou square) anyway, before painted black fitted to the front: Here is also the new top cover. The forward holes are for filling fuel or oil - the tanks are right below. Through the smaller single hole a reclaimed oil vent will protrude. The anti-head-bang protection is milliput.

I do not remember having problems with the struts on the 1/72 (built two). Only modification I did was to open the cowling ring for ventilation holes. These varied widely (many field jobs I think) so Eduard molded them whole.

When I first read the title, I thought you meant to build a Nieuport 10 in one day! Clickbait I say! — It’s coming along nicely though, 10 days is still possible (if you deduct non-modelling days?)

I bought a jeweler’s metal scissor and nowadays cut my own horns as one-piece up-and-down affairs, using beer can or PE fret leftovers as material. Unless the horns have an intricate shape this works fine I think. But yes, when I’m paying for PE it would indeed be nice to be sparefd of this job. Splendid job by way, I’ve been silently following along.

And a last contribution from me, one of the invaders: an Me piloted by Heinz Bär. Bär had a modest background and joined the airforce to gain enough experience to become a Lufthansa pilot, having not enough means to take the easier route. He had bad timing and instead ended up flying combat missions from the beginning to the end of the war. He was shot or forced down multiple times, and while flying this particular plane he was shot down by Spitfires and ended up swimming in the Channel. ICM 1/72 Bf 109E-3, straightforward out of the box, build here:

And a Defiant, a childhood favourite. The model depicts L7021 of 264 squadron, flown by different crews. After inital succeses against bombers, it eventually succumbed while engaged by JG26 (thanks to AndyL for this and the following information). At the time it was flown by Squadron Leader George Garvin and Flight Lieutenant Robert Ash. The llane was set alight, and although both managed to bail, Ash was found dead in his parachute. This happened August 28, 1940. The kit used was the new Airfix 1/72, with a vac-form canopy and turret, plus QB barrels. Build here:

One more Hurricane, V6605 of No. 1 squadron RCAF. It was temporarily flown by 303 squadron pilot Zdzislaw Henneberg before returned and used by the Canadians for the rest of the Battle, surviving until a fatal training mission in september 1941, killing pilot Edward Locke. Henneberg, with 8 victoriea during the battle, was not destined to survive 1941 either: he disappeared over the Channel after being hit by AA over France in September that year. The kit is OOB from Arma’s popular 1/72 Hurricane Mk.I, build here:

She’s finished, finally got around to add the propellr and aerial. Pictures in the gallery shortly. Will see if I will bother to fix that nibbled top right corner on the ”N” - I like little defects. Finally: full marks to Arma hobby for this pearl. Fit, details, decals, all excellent.

Indeed very elegant, but unfortunately for the Pfalz many of the lot drawn to this era of aviation seem to share a love* for the quirky and ungainly, so it doesn’t help to make it popular That said, I have built one in 1/72 and have an unstarted WNW which I used as reference for the main build (the 1/72 build that is!). It is a great help to be able to look at the 1/32 parts while building a smaller version - if you have any queries about the look of some detail or another give a shout. *) guilty as charged

I do regret not buying a couple of those brown box DVs when I had the chance, but as you won’t pay exorbitant prices. And I receiced a 1/72 Triplane this week Neat little thing but I’ll probably use a spare Roden engine.

Interesting read. I almost hope you make some serious mistake so we can see that beached diorama or rolled-over diorama!

If you need three artscale.eu has it for a decent price.

Images work fine (I see 2). Interesting type, which I’m not familiar with. Will take a seat

Those are some very neat choices. And I had decided I didn’t need more Hurricanes!

Preparing the metal plates. Wondering whether they ought to be shiny and evenly coloured like modern replicas or show patterns from being worked, for example like the cowl of Fokker Eindeckers.

Happy to see one of these built, I remember when it was released. Didn’t realise they were still in use in the 40s. An alternative might to only lead the wires through the holes in the PE but instead of terminating there, attach the ends to the plastic the traditional way. I see the temptation of attaching only to the PE, that would make things considerably easier - if the PE/plastic bonds hold that is. I am happy to see someone else trying this first

I have become addicted to the Smallstuffmodels engines - I caught myself trying to find pushers or other early models with the engine in the open to scratchbuild, just so I can get justification for buying more. Here pushrods are being installed. After the glue has set the rods are cut with a trimmer. A last of many tests to see if it still fits, seen from above: The ignition wires (sprue, a bit overscale in thickness) and painting: The wires will be seen later from below, so no cheating possible. Next up is mounting this and finishing closing the fuselage.

Found this box while rummaging through the big box-o-boxes on the attic. It was awhile ago I built a Mustang, so it was about time. The kit has options for two USAAF and one RAF machine in desert livery. Since I was hoping to build a desert Kittyhawk I opted for an American plane here. Obligatory sprue shots: Quite some cleaning will be needed and detail is often a bit rough. The wheels are horrible (mouldibg gone bad or bad moulds?) but fortunately the box also contains a set of nice resin, including wheels: Unfortunately the resin cockpit is a tad doffocult to assemble, no obvious location marks and the instructions only have an exploded view. I assembled the plastic parts to get an idea of what goes where. The photo doesn’t gove enough credit to the details: especially the radios/ gear behind the seat are wonderful. I might have to find an open vac-form canopy to display this. I only have B/D canopies though. That is how far I’ve gotten. Also considering acquiring some aftermarket guns and exhausts (they are crude), but we’ll see how happy I am with the model at that point - that is, whether it deserves them or not.

The term robot was (and is) used becaused the weapons are guided, or even autonomous, in the same reason a robot called ”robot” in English, but English usage is encroaching, at least among civilians. The funding story sounds apocryphal

Me too! Now, where to find these corks. Looks like I must buy two-three large bottles of dispensable fluid. — For the punches steel would of course be better but at least some of us don’t have the tools for that. Sure, buying a lathe is probably cheaper than some of those punch sets

The easiest way I found, which produced good results, was to take evergreen rod (they’re quite soft) and squeeze it in a vice. A little practice and you can get reproducable results. That’ll give you an elliptic cross-section which can be tapered near the connections if needed. Works in 1/72, but in 1/32 I’d expect more afterwork to be necessaru.

Like the little round reflectors, definitely better than those I tried to shape. Wonder if I can sharpen an aluminium or brass tube to do the work.