Building the Pocher 1/8 Lotus 72D, Emerson Fittipaldi 1972

[KeithAnthony]

1 hour ago, rjfk2002 said:

you can purchase directly from him

Best way! His e-mail is  [email protected]

 

Here are some more links

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ej8qmfcr1sa4ubi/AACs9x6fwFeoSySx1VNCx80la?dl=0

 

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/qs6mwz4v5phlbya/AAAAXxDQ5ahWNLWyrJJGDfUSa?dl=0

 

(I have no association with Paul other than as a very happy customer and user of two Ducati detailing sets).

Edited July 20, 2023 by KeithAnthony

[DFC]

I won't call it my "bucket list" although it's something I've wanted to do for a long while.  Yesterday I did the Classic Team Lotus tour at Hethel where there were 5 examples of the Lotus 72E on display; I also had the opportunity to see up close an OOB build of the Pocher model.

 

[Delboy.nz]

New member.  Purchased the kit a few months ago, had to finish a few other projects before starting, but will shortly be getting right into it.  This thread has been fantastic for clarifying the build process.  Thanks to all for the contributions as will hopefully make my build go much smoother and will provide multiple reference points as I work through the kit .  Even the tip of attaching magnets to screwdriver was something I hadn't considered 🙂 

You are all legends!

[RR F1]

I am new to this forum although I have been reading it for years. I just got the Lotus 72D and the upgrade parts mentioned here. The last 1/8 metal model I did was 35 years ago, the Ferrari Testarossa and I believe it was also a Pocher.

Usually I just follow the builds here and enjoy the models on my screen, but this time I had to have the model. I still can remember as a kid watching those races and I should soon getting my box.

I have a question on those builders, that took the factory paint off the engines, if they think it is worth the effort.

Thanks.

 

[Schummie]

1 hour ago, RR F1 said:

I am new to this forum although I have been reading it for years. I just got the Lotus 72D and the upgrade parts mentioned here. The last 1/8 metal model I did was 35 years ago, the Ferrari Testarossa and I believe it was also a Pocher.

Usually I just follow the builds here and enjoy the models on my screen, but this time I had to have the model. I still can remember as a kid watching those races and I should soon getting my box.

I have a question on those builders, that took the factory paint off the engines, if they think it is worth the effort.

Thanks.

It’s definitly worth the effort. What looks more metal, metal or painted metal?  
In other words, the zamac when sanded and polished can shine from aluminium, through silver to chrome. Or real gun metal with the right acid.

I feel looks better than aluminium or silver paint.

[Bozothenutter]

On 2/12/2023 at 10:55 PM, cmatthewbacon said:

Hi, all... made some good progress on a complicated bit of plumbing today. Just to be clear, although this is my WIP thread, technically, I have no problem with anyone posting information or images that will help other people build this impressive kit successfully. It's better that the info is all in one place, rather than scattered over multiple threads.

 

 

Re my previous post, I think this is what the ?accumulator? (H-8 and J-3) is meant to look like.

 

 

Out if the box, this is what the distributor/fuel pump looks like. I wasn't happy, and neither were my references.

 

 

After a coat of Humbrol 56 Aluminium and a wash of the fuel pump end with  Citadel Agrax Earthshade, this is what it looks like now.

 

The fuel lines and ignition lead set-up is rather complex. This is how I decided to make a start.

 

 

All the lengths of tube TU-1 will be labelled. The original instructions have TU-1 for the fuel lines and TU-2 for the plug wires. This is WRONG. All the tubes in this section are TU-1.

 

 

The instructions aren't clear, but all these tubes thread UNDER the silver plates over the heads between the injectors and induction trumpets. If you label then as I have, they all need to go in from the outside, because you can't thread them with the tags in place. Give yourself more length than the instructions suggest on all the tubes, but especially 1 and 2 and 5 and 6. There's quite a lot of room for manoeuvre here, especially with a bit more "slack", so I'd fit the fuel pipes without gluing the pump in place, and then connect the plug wires to the distributor, lowest (deepest in the valley between cylinders) first and fix the unit as late as possible.

 

All the plug wires go through the rearmost gap under the plate to the distributor. The fuel lines to the forward cylinders go through the next gap at the rear. The fuel lines to the rear cylinders go through the third gap, nearer the front, and then come back to the rear pair of injectors on each side.

 

 

 

The fuel lines are reasonably tight. You can see above the gaps they thread through under the silver plate.

 

 

Each fuel line is shortened to be a reasonably tight fit, and glued in place with black rubber superglue.

 

 

Don't forget the control lever cross-brace (silver, M-6, connects to the lever on the front of the fuel-pump/distributor unit), the pipe connector on the front of the right cylinder head (M-28, black), and to connect the loose tube from the interior front of the right cylinder head to the nipple facing forward at the top front of the fuel pump unit.

 

 

 

 

With the the plug ends of the ignition wires attached, you can pull them back at the distributor to  set them close to the cylinder head.

 

 

 

 

 

 

So it will then look somewhat like the above...

 

 

 

Finally for p16, the box full of electronics sits on top of the distributor/fuel pump unit, and the tube connecting the accumulator fits on the outside front left. In the box, it's plain black, but references suggest a slightly more colourful version with metallic blue connectors and brass accents to the black tube.

 

EDIT: Too late for me, but if you're following through this thread while building, some new information from @PaulP posted in your future

 

"I can help you with the King lead question. The manual does actually show it connecting to the distributor on page 16 section 1 and then the end of the coil (M20) in section 2 on the same page. On the real car at rear of the electronic  box it is actually a fairly standard coil.

 

As Pocher show the fuel injection lines and ignition leads the engine would never run!

A Cosworth DFV has a 1 8 3 6 4 5 2 7 firing sequence and the distributor and injection pump rotate anti clockwise looking forward. 

The cylinders are  looking forward again:  5         1

                                                                      6         2

                                                                      7         3

                                                                      8         4

 

The exhaust pipes are actually embossed correctly with the cylinder numbers close to were they fix to the head. All this means that the numbering for the fuel lines and ignition leads is totally wrong! I have assumed that Pocher have got Number 1 position correct and worked from there. I can post a scan of the correct number sequences if anybody would like it."

 

If you have already wired the distributor as Pocher would have it, and it's still accessible (Mine isn't since it's thoroughly embedded in surrounding structure), then this is how you need to move the wires around:

 

 

 

The "king lead" is a short length of TU-1 from the centre of the distributor to the coil top on the back of the electronics box above.

 

best,

M.

This REALLY needs some RB motion details....

 

[RR F1]

Thanks Schummie for your answer.

I should have the box on Monday in my hands, and cannot wait to start.

I have been “practice” the build with the help of this website and believe I know all the problems and solutions.

I might need more help on the way.

[RR F1]

With all the help here, I started my Lotus 72D. Since I purchased Paul Koo's detailing set, I also follow his assembly instruction and started with the Part N-8. He also provided a huge amount of original pictures and inside thoughts to make the build easier.

N-8 part is my first try of really detailing a pieces, just to see, what is possible in 1/8. This part took me a very long time but I am not in a hurry since I don't have any other models on my shelf (paused for over 30 years to build model kits while focusing on other hobbies).

 

 

 

 

[cmatthewbacon]

Wow.... that's very impressive. I shall draw up a chair.... I may be here for some time!

best,

M.

[RR F1]

The first stage is finished. I am very impressed with this Kit since my last one was Tamiya 1/12 plastic kit years ago.

First I wanted to remove the paint of metal casting and leave the pieces unpainted, as shown here on this forum. But I noticed, that some pieces that also should have be metal were plastic. I don't think, I would have be able to find or mix a color for the plastic pieces to match the unpainted metal parts.

At the end I painted everything Tamiya Titanium Silver.

Since I have never build a such complicated kit, I study every single post on this Forum. I also using Paul Koo's step-by-step instruction and all his pictures he provides with the DVD. I think, even getting only his DVD is a great source for a smooth build, if you are not an expert with Pocher models.

 

 

[DFC]

I expect to begin my build of the Lotus 72 in January so I shall be following closely your build in Paul Koo's order.  There seem tp be quite a few parts requiring the stripping of silver paint and other requiring painting black but overall I'm impressed with the kit and upgrade.

[RR F1]

I decided to use a better looking color instead of removing the paint. It is along build without days of watching paint loosening up.

[Memphis44]

I have one of these ready to start next year - however I'm hoping someone who has completed one could confirm the dimensions?

 

The marketing material and Pocher website states: Length 523mm, Height 146mm, Width 235mm

 

Whereas on the side of the box is states: Length 583mm, Height 131mm, Width 254mm

 

I'm hoping the website is correct, as the dimensions stated on the box won't fit in my display case 😬

[RR F1]

I am on page 7 of the revised Pocher manual. Looking at the pieces DC-38, DC-4 and DC-2, DC-3 (intake plates?), I believe they are painted wrong. The top plates should be black and the lower ones should be in metal color. All the pictures I found on the internet would suggest that.

Maybe they used a different 72D that would support their choice of colors.

[Dinky]

On 12/5/2023 at 7:15 PM, Memphis44 said:

I have one of these ready to start next year - however I'm hoping someone who has completed one could confirm the dimensions?

 

The marketing material and Pocher website states: Length 523mm, Height 146mm, Width 235mm

 

Whereas on the side of the box is states: Length 583mm, Height 131mm, Width 254mm

 

I'm hoping the website is correct, as the dimensions stated on the box won't fit in my display case 😬

 

Its definitely the 583 one, it's my longest Pocher model and barely touches my 60cm display case inside. It is 5-6mm glass so the inside must be close to the 583 😉

[Dinky]

11 hours ago, RR F1 said:

I am on page 7 of the revised Pocher manual. Looking at the pieces DC-38, DC-4 and DC-2, DC-3 (intake plates?), I believe they are painted wrong. The top plates should be black and the lower ones should be in metal color. All the pictures I found on the internet would suggest that.

Maybe they used a different 72D that would support their choice of colors.

 

What has been mentioned different times before is that there were many different versions of this car in the past and that each version had its differences and colors.

If you take 10 pictures from the internet you see different things on each, I think it's very difficult to say what is the exact correct. Personally, I just did what I liked the best.  

[Jean B.]

14 hours ago, RR F1 said:

I am on page 7 of the revised Pocher manual. Looking at the pieces DC-38, DC-4 and DC-2, DC-3 (intake plates?), I believe they are painted wrong. The top plates should be black and the lower ones should be in metal color. All the pictures I found on the internet would suggest that.

Maybe they used a different 72D that would support their choice of colors.

You are right, they mixed up the colours of these parts. If you start digging into this model you will find many errors and inconsistenties.
Pocher used different models and reference material to base their car on. Both historic and also on the cars as they are in their current state after 50 years of modifications. I have been to Lotus in May this year when they had all the still existing JPS 72's on display, and they are all different. Pocher claims to habe made the 72D in the GP of England winner version. This is car with chassis # 7, but Pocher used many details from the restored chassis #5.
There are some pictures to be foud (on https://www.conceptcarz.com/gallery/23482/Lotus-72 ) where the colours look like the ones from Pocher, but almost all other reference shows that the top should be black. While we are on the sliders, the covers of the sliders (which Pocher has attached to the cooling tubes) are also a more recent upgrade which was not present at the 1972 72D.
If you don't have it yet, I would advise you to buy the Paul Koo DVD where you will find a lot of reference material (including the pictures I made at Lotus). Aside from that it is a great help in building the Lotus and to add many modifications to make the model more accurate.

[DFC]

I've been working through Paul Koo's CD in preparation for the start of my build in January.  He points out several areas where paint colours are inconsistent with the main references and it seems that Pocher were unwilling to finish any part of the kit in two colours altho' current technology would enable this.

 

It's a good kit, however, in my view and Paul's CD makes the build much easier.

[RR F1]

Thanks for the responds. I have Paul’s CD and have been studying the picture for more hours than I spend on the build. 

[BJAY]

Finished my Lotus 72d returning to modelling after many years.  Previously built Tamiya 1'12 but now with arthritic fingers 1/8 scale easier to handle.

Would not have managed the build without the guidance and photos from Matt Baker, thank you Matt and to the many other contributors.

 

I am now considering another 1/8th  build and wondering about Pocher Lamborghini, or perhaps the Le Grand Mercedes scheduled for January 2024 release although might be too expensive!  Any thoughts re the  new Lamborghini??

 

Thanks 

[Griph]

50 minutes ago, BJAY said:

Finished my Lotus 72d returning to modelling after many years.  Previously built Tamiya 1'12 but now with arthritic fingers 1/8 scale easier to handle.

Would not have managed the build without the guidance and photos from Matt Baker, thank you Matt and to the many other contributors.

 

I am now considering another 1/8th  build and wondering about Pocher Lamborghini, or perhaps the Le Grand Mercedes scheduled for January 2024 release although might be too expensive!  Any thoughts re the  new Lamborghini??

 

Thanks 

I’ve built IXO Collections Porsche 917KH, 1/8th scale, now available as a complete kit for €990 (£860) plus duty if outside of the EU. It’s a great build! IXO (based in France)  have great customer service. Their display case by the way is only €99. Much cheaper than the Pocher one! All free delivery! 

[Longueville Jacques]

20 hours ago, Griph said:

I’ve built IXO Collections Porsche 917KH, 1/8th scale, now available as a complete kit for €990 (£860) plus duty if outside of the EU. It’s a great build! IXO (based in France)  have great customer service. Their display case by the way is only €99. Much cheaper than the Pocher one! All free delivery! 

Hallo, I could not agree more! So far I have built the IXO Volvo, the  W 196 Mercedes, the 300 SL, the Agora Cobra and the Zero, and the Pocher Lotus, but the most impressive by far is the IXO Porsche 917 KH!

My IXO Bugatti Atlantic is still in its box, waiting to be built, maybe that will be an even more outstanding model?

In my opinion IXO is superb quality, Agora let me down, Pocher has bad instructions (the old 1970 ones were good) and I hope the LeGrand Mercedes 300SLR will top them all.

 

Jacques

[BJAY]

Sorry Matt Bacon not Matt Baker unless he built one on Blue Peter haha!

 

Thanks for helpful replies I have thought about 917K Porsche, looks good.

[RR F1]

The Ford Cosworth engine is now finished and I started with the transmission. I have to say, without the help here, it would have been a very frustrating build. It also helped, I had the CD from Paul Koo. I also used this website as well https://www.motorsportimages.com

I checked a lot of pictures and some of the changes or add ons that I did, might not have been on Fittipaldi's car in 1972. I saw the yellow cable on Peterson's car and that would have been 1973 but I liked the color touch. Same with the ignition box. I found that shape on an undated picture and it just looked cool.

 

 

Edited December 31, 2023 by RR F1

[RR F1]

Transmission and oil tank are finished. Next step would be to combine those pieces but since it is not necessary for the following steps, I leave them separated. It is easier for me to store them since they are quite heavy as two pieces already.