KeithAnthony

Best way! His e-mail is [email protected] Here are some more links https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ej8qmfcr1sa4ubi/AACs9x6fwFeoSySx1VNCx80la?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/sh/qs6mwz4v5phlbya/AAAAXxDQ5ahWNLWyrJJGDfUSa?dl=0 (I have no association with Paul other than as a very happy customer and user of two Ducati detailing sets).

Paul Koo has announced his super -detail kit and DVD. His DVD is available now, the kit soon. Here are some sample photos he sent me https://www.dropbox.com/sh/qs6mwz4v5phlbya/AAAAXxDQ5ahWNLWyrJJGDfUSa?dl=0

I think all the tolerances are for parts without paint. To get a tight fit you need to clean all mating faces back to bare metal..This was very true also for the Ducati model, so just need to get into the Pocher way!

Just be sure before you hit the ca glue! I got through it from the original manual so you will be fine. One thing I found is that if you look at a couple of diagrams forward it can be a helpful supplementary drawing to the one you are working from. You might find Splash Baker's weekly reports helpful

There are two hole sizes, to match the 1.5mm and 2mm kit screws.

https://international.optimas.com/technical-resources/tapping-sizes/ In practice, the Pocher holes work fine for both 1.6 and 2mm taps.

If I can do it so can you. Keep the tap clean (I use an old toothbrush) and never use dry - always a spot of thin oil. Use in drill press and try and keep straight. Gentle pressure and if it gets tight back off. The holes in the castings are perfect for a 1.6mm tap. Good luck - becomes more model engineering !

I used 1.6mm (for 1.5mm kit screws), with tapped holes. Mostly silver, some black. There are also a few 2.0mm holding major components together. Again with tapped holes can pull together very well.

For high quality engineering taps I use Tracy Tools https://www.tracytools.com/ The 1.6mm size is very expensive for reasons I know not, but cheap taps in the size will break easily. They always seem to break 'flush', which means loads of fun getting it out!

Just had e-mail from Pocher advicing the new four part instructions mentioned earlier in the thread. Guess they rushed the first low res version out so we had something!

Like all! This must be a logistics problem for them in the short term as you would not expect the number of spares held to equal the number of kits. At least the leg belts (which is what is missing) can be added later, and should not delay anyone's build.

Yes, wrap round and a spot of ca. You will need to hold till set because of 'spring' in belt material, either with tweezers or a small clip (care needed as ca can seep through material). The 2-3-4 are inches, the 10 -29 are cm's. I didn't find Pochers suggested lengths that accurate in either original or revised instructions, Best to work slowly and try yourself in car. The main belts are the only critical pair.

Post on 30th Jan on pg.3 is best help. You may need to ask for more of the widest belt. Yes, 'over stitching' is a transfer. The transfers do not want to lie well, so I used Micro Sol.The belt soon became saturated but it dries out ok.and transfer sticks well.

Well found - and looks good in blue! I struggled with that,too! A simple cross reference would save the frustration!

Yep - they are pre-painted gold in kit, but have a mould line that needs sanding out before repainting. It is finding the correct shade of gold I am stuck on.

Finished for now. Have not fitted mirrors yet as I do not like seem line and have yet to be convinced what colour to paint them. That said, OOB colour of mirrors doesn't match anything. Have enjoyed the build and hopefully they will do a version in Gold Leaf colours (red,white and gold). (Just noticed cockpit cowl seems to have popped up at front - I have not glued as it holds quite well when clipped in.)

It is interesting how we interpret things different,y. You have done a great job, but I was happy with standard finish on cam covers. However, I did spend some time getting rid of join lines on cylindrical oil filter housing, by assembling off engine and fitting as a complete unit.

I used a car polish (Autoglym Resin Polish) which has a light cleaning action, but not that satisfactory. Forever fighting finger marks. The side pods have some shading which doesn't come off but also doesn't show to badly. Would have to rate paint finish on side pods as poor - all other panels are fine, both metal and plastic.. IPA might be ok as cleaner.

I fitted 'mine' on inside of hub casting. with fixing head inside also. and it lines up ok.

Great - how embarrassing! I did look at that, as the 'thin' (inner) tube seems shorter than in the Instructions and some pics, and I tried gently but nothing happened. Many thanks!

Could someone do me a favour please, and measure the struts BR-2 hole centre to hole centre. Trying to fit rear wing and it is turning out to be impossible, and can't see that I have done anything incorrectly. With the wing set at an angle with "Firestone' on the end plate horizontal the struts are short. Mine measure 48.5mm, and they need to be around 65mm. Attach pic. Thanks..

Ooop's! Autocorrect - should be Airbox, sorry. There is a plate that snaps on and will eventually be cemented to Airbox.

None at all. The injectors are vulnerable and the trumpets do make them more robust. I didn't, but you could try clipping the base of the airbag which would help. Good job on exhaust collectors!

Absolutely stunning work. A real privilege to see it. Well done, Tomasz!

The cam covers stay very visible, as do the exhausts, but the block itself is a bit hidden. A very visible part I spent time on is the collector for the four exhaust pipes, as it has some visible seams to fill. It is very difficult on colours. A lot of the original detail engine pics are b&w. Studying three books specific to the 72, it is clear, as you say, things changed from build to build and race to race.