Building the Pocher 1/8 Lotus 72D, Emerson Fittipaldi 1972

[KeithAnthony]

1 hour ago, rjfk2002 said:

you can purchase directly from him

Best way! His e-mail is  [email protected]

 

Here are some more links

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ej8qmfcr1sa4ubi/AACs9x6fwFeoSySx1VNCx80la?dl=0

 

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/qs6mwz4v5phlbya/AAAAXxDQ5ahWNLWyrJJGDfUSa?dl=0

 

(I have no association with Paul other than as a very happy customer and user of two Ducati detailing sets).

Edited July 20 by KeithAnthony

[DFC]

I won't call it my "bucket list" although it's something I've wanted to do for a long while.  Yesterday I did the Classic Team Lotus tour at Hethel where there were 5 examples of the Lotus 72E on display; I also had the opportunity to see up close an OOB build of the Pocher model.

 

[Delboy.nz]

New member.  Purchased the kit a few months ago, had to finish a few other projects before starting, but will shortly be getting right into it.  This thread has been fantastic for clarifying the build process.  Thanks to all for the contributions as will hopefully make my build go much smoother and will provide multiple reference points as I work through the kit .  Even the tip of attaching magnets to screwdriver was something I hadn't considered 🙂 

You are all legends!

[RR F1]

I am new to this forum although I have been reading it for years. I just got the Lotus 72D and the upgrade parts mentioned here. The last 1/8 metal model I did was 35 years ago, the Ferrari Testarossa and I believe it was also a Pocher.

Usually I just follow the builds here and enjoy the models on my screen, but this time I had to have the model. I still can remember as a kid watching those races and I should soon getting my box.

I have a question on those builders, that took the factory paint off the engines, if they think it is worth the effort.

Thanks.

 

[Schummie]

1 hour ago, RR F1 said:

I am new to this forum although I have been reading it for years. I just got the Lotus 72D and the upgrade parts mentioned here. The last 1/8 metal model I did was 35 years ago, the Ferrari Testarossa and I believe it was also a Pocher.

Usually I just follow the builds here and enjoy the models on my screen, but this time I had to have the model. I still can remember as a kid watching those races and I should soon getting my box.

I have a question on those builders, that took the factory paint off the engines, if they think it is worth the effort.

Thanks.

It’s definitly worth the effort. What looks more metal, metal or painted metal?  
In other words, the zamac when sanded and polished can shine from aluminium, through silver to chrome. Or real gun metal with the right acid.

I feel looks better than aluminium or silver paint.

[Bozothenutter]

On 2/12/2023 at 10:55 PM, cmatthewbacon said:

Hi, all... made some good progress on a complicated bit of plumbing today. Just to be clear, although this is my WIP thread, technically, I have no problem with anyone posting information or images that will help other people build this impressive kit successfully. It's better that the info is all in one place, rather than scattered over multiple threads.

 

 

Re my previous post, I think this is what the ?accumulator? (H-8 and J-3) is meant to look like.

 

 

Out if the box, this is what the distributor/fuel pump looks like. I wasn't happy, and neither were my references.

 

 

After a coat of Humbrol 56 Aluminium and a wash of the fuel pump end with  Citadel Agrax Earthshade, this is what it looks like now.

 

The fuel lines and ignition lead set-up is rather complex. This is how I decided to make a start.

 

 

All the lengths of tube TU-1 will be labelled. The original instructions have TU-1 for the fuel lines and TU-2 for the plug wires. This is WRONG. All the tubes in this section are TU-1.

 

 

The instructions aren't clear, but all these tubes thread UNDER the silver plates over the heads between the injectors and induction trumpets. If you label then as I have, they all need to go in from the outside, because you can't thread them with the tags in place. Give yourself more length than the instructions suggest on all the tubes, but especially 1 and 2 and 5 and 6. There's quite a lot of room for manoeuvre here, especially with a bit more "slack", so I'd fit the fuel pipes without gluing the pump in place, and then connect the plug wires to the distributor, lowest (deepest in the valley between cylinders) first and fix the unit as late as possible.

 

All the plug wires go through the rearmost gap under the plate to the distributor. The fuel lines to the forward cylinders go through the next gap at the rear. The fuel lines to the rear cylinders go through the third gap, nearer the front, and then come back to the rear pair of injectors on each side.

 

 

 

The fuel lines are reasonably tight. You can see above the gaps they thread through under the silver plate.

 

 

Each fuel line is shortened to be a reasonably tight fit, and glued in place with black rubber superglue.

 

 

Don't forget the control lever cross-brace (silver, M-6, connects to the lever on the front of the fuel-pump/distributor unit), the pipe connector on the front of the right cylinder head (M-28, black), and to connect the loose tube from the interior front of the right cylinder head to the nipple facing forward at the top front of the fuel pump unit.

 

 

 

 

With the the plug ends of the ignition wires attached, you can pull them back at the distributor to  set them close to the cylinder head.

 

 

 

 

 

 

So it will then look somewhat like the above...

 

 

 

Finally for p16, the box full of electronics sits on top of the distributor/fuel pump unit, and the tube connecting the accumulator fits on the outside front left. In the box, it's plain black, but references suggest a slightly more colourful version with metallic blue connectors and brass accents to the black tube.

 

EDIT: Too late for me, but if you're following through this thread while building, some new information from @PaulP posted in your future

 

"I can help you with the King lead question. The manual does actually show it connecting to the distributor on page 16 section 1 and then the end of the coil (M20) in section 2 on the same page. On the real car at rear of the electronic  box it is actually a fairly standard coil.

 

As Pocher show the fuel injection lines and ignition leads the engine would never run!

A Cosworth DFV has a 1 8 3 6 4 5 2 7 firing sequence and the distributor and injection pump rotate anti clockwise looking forward. 

The cylinders are  looking forward again:  5         1

                                                                      6         2

                                                                      7         3

                                                                      8         4

 

The exhaust pipes are actually embossed correctly with the cylinder numbers close to were they fix to the head. All this means that the numbering for the fuel lines and ignition leads is totally wrong! I have assumed that Pocher have got Number 1 position correct and worked from there. I can post a scan of the correct number sequences if anybody would like it."

 

If you have already wired the distributor as Pocher would have it, and it's still accessible (Mine isn't since it's thoroughly embedded in surrounding structure), then this is how you need to move the wires around:

 

 

 

The "king lead" is a short length of TU-1 from the centre of the distributor to the coil top on the back of the electronics box above.

 

best,

M.

This REALLY needs some RB motion details....

 

[RR F1]

Thanks Schummie for your answer.

I should have the box on Monday in my hands, and cannot wait to start.

I have been “practice” the build with the help of this website and believe I know all the problems and solutions.

I might need more help on the way.

[RR F1]

With all the help here, I started my Lotus 72D. Since I purchased Paul Koo's detailing set, I also follow his assembly instruction and started with the Part N-8. He also provided a huge amount of original pictures and inside thoughts to make the build easier.

N-8 part is my first try of really detailing a pieces, just to see, what is possible in 1/8. This part took me a very long time but I am not in a hurry since I don't have any other models on my shelf (paused for over 30 years to build model kits while focusing on other hobbies).

 

 

 

 

[cmatthewbacon]

Wow.... that's very impressive. I shall draw up a chair.... I may be here for some time!

best,

M.