KeithAnthony

Best way! His e-mail is [email protected] Here are some more links https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ej8qmfcr1sa4ubi/AACs9x6fwFeoSySx1VNCx80la?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/sh/qs6mwz4v5phlbya/AAAAXxDQ5ahWNLWyrJJGDfUSa?dl=0 (I have no association with Paul other than as a very happy customer and user of two Ducati detailing sets).

Paul Koo has announced his super -detail kit and DVD. His DVD is available now, the kit soon. Here are some sample photos he sent me https://www.dropbox.com/sh/qs6mwz4v5phlbya/AAAAXxDQ5ahWNLWyrJJGDfUSa?dl=0

I think all the tolerances are for parts without paint. To get a tight fit you need to clean all mating faces back to bare metal..This was very true also for the Ducati model, so just need to get into the Pocher way!

Just be sure before you hit the ca glue! I got through it from the original manual so you will be fine. One thing I found is that if you look at a couple of diagrams forward it can be a helpful supplementary drawing to the one you are working from. You might find Splash Baker's weekly reports helpful

There are two hole sizes, to match the 1.5mm and 2mm kit screws.

https://international.optimas.com/technical-resources/tapping-sizes/ In practice, the Pocher holes work fine for both 1.6 and 2mm taps.

If I can do it so can you. Keep the tap clean (I use an old toothbrush) and never use dry - always a spot of thin oil. Use in drill press and try and keep straight. Gentle pressure and if it gets tight back off. The holes in the castings are perfect for a 1.6mm tap. Good luck - becomes more model engineering !

I used 1.6mm (for 1.5mm kit screws), with tapped holes. Mostly silver, some black. There are also a few 2.0mm holding major components together. Again with tapped holes can pull together very well.

For high quality engineering taps I use Tracy Tools https://www.tracytools.com/ The 1.6mm size is very expensive for reasons I know not, but cheap taps in the size will break easily. They always seem to break 'flush', which means loads of fun getting it out!

Just had e-mail from Pocher advicing the new four part instructions mentioned earlier in the thread. Guess they rushed the first low res version out so we had something!

Like all! This must be a logistics problem for them in the short term as you would not expect the number of spares held to equal the number of kits. At least the leg belts (which is what is missing) can be added later, and should not delay anyone's build.

Yes, wrap round and a spot of ca. You will need to hold till set because of 'spring' in belt material, either with tweezers or a small clip (care needed as ca can seep through material). The 2-3-4 are inches, the 10 -29 are cm's. I didn't find Pochers suggested lengths that accurate in either original or revised instructions, Best to work slowly and try yourself in car. The main belts are the only critical pair.

Post on 30th Jan on pg.3 is best help. You may need to ask for more of the widest belt. Yes, 'over stitching' is a transfer. The transfers do not want to lie well, so I used Micro Sol.The belt soon became saturated but it dries out ok.and transfer sticks well.

Well found - and looks good in blue! I struggled with that,too! A simple cross reference would save the frustration!

Yep - they are pre-painted gold in kit, but have a mould line that needs sanding out before repainting. It is finding the correct shade of gold I am stuck on.