Building the Pocher 1/8 Lotus 72D, Emerson Fittipaldi 1972

[Bosco]

Could use some help before I really mess up a small assembly. How have most of you attached the 3 lenses and bezels to the dashboard without the adhesive smearing all over the place? They really don't snap in place, so I'm guessing some kind of adhesive needs to be used.

Bosco

[cmatthewbacon]

Formula 560 Canopy Glue, which is my go-to clear parts adhesive. Strong, dries completely clear, cleans up with water, doesn’t affect clear parts or paint, and is very tough when it’s cured. Any white PVA glue that dries clear would probably work, though, but check it dries clear, not cloudy gray…

best,

M.

[Griph]

1 hour ago, Bosco said:

Could use some help before I really mess up a small assembly. How have most of you attached the 3 lenses and bezels to the dashboard without the adhesive smearing all over the place? They really don't snap in place, so I'm guessing some kind of adhesive needs to be used.

Bosco

I used Microscale Krystal Klear - it’s a PVA adhesive that dries clear. There are other similar products that work well! 

[Schummie]

On 07/05/2023 at 19:15, Bosco said:

Well, I got to the part of assembling the wheels and tires. We all know how hard the rubber tires are. So before I bring out the sledge hammer to pound the rims through the tires, I'm looking at information from some of you that have assembled them already. Is boiling the tires in water get them soft enough for the rims to go through?

Thanks,

Bosco

I tried both methods. The boiling water method is way faster. And the tires were softer with the water method. 
Also no risk in deformation. I put them in cold water and then brought the water to boiling with the tires is.

As soon as the water boiled, I took them out, one by one and placed them on the rims. I also used a bit of liquid dishwasher soap on the edges to grease it a bit. 
When the tires are on the rim, push on the tires on the sides where they contact the track. This way you push out the sides a bit, so they’re flush to the edges of the rim.

Works like a charm. Whole job completed in 15 minutes.

[Bosco]

So I'm getting to the part to install part DCA-4. I tighten everything down and you can see by the short video of the massive misalignment to the chassis. The only way I was able to get rid of most of the misalignment (but not all) was to completely remove the DC-51, DC-52 assembly. You don't see it anyway. I'll finish this model and probably not show it to anyone. I'm kinda embarrassed of it.

Bosco

 

[Griph]

2 hours ago, Bosco said:

So I'm getting to the part to install part DCA-4. I tighten everything down and you can see by the short video of the massive misalignment to the chassis. The only way I was able to get rid of most of the misalignment (but not all) was to completely remove the DC-51, DC-52 assembly. You don't see it anyway. I'll finish this model and probably not show it to anyone. I'm kinda embarrassed of it.

Bosco

 

Hi Bosco - I appreciate the difficulty. I am struggling to see what exactly is wrong. Could you do another slower and longer video and also show us what is under? Sorry you are having frustrations! Was it you who had problems with the front wheel frame alignment? 

[Bosco]

On 5/11/2023 at 3:47 PM, Griph said:

Hi Bosco - I appreciate the difficulty. I am struggling to see what exactly is wrong. Could you do another slower and longer video and also show us what is under? Sorry you are having frustrations! Was it you who had problems with the front wheel frame alignment? 

Yes, it was me who had the problem with the front wheel frame alignment. And I think that's where the problem might be. At this point, ordering a new frame and trying to take everything apart just to fix this is out of the question. Like I said, I'm going to finish this model and most likely place it behind all my other models on display. After removing the assembly (that you won't see anyway) at the front, the alignment is almost undetected. Only experienced modelers would notice this. I just want to finish the Lotus and get back to the IXO Porsche 917 I'm building. Thank God, the Porsche doesn't require the amount of gluing parts together like the Lotus. We have seen parts in the Lotus required to glue together, plastic to metal, metal to metal, etc. At this point I will never again buy a model from Pocher. I think I'll stick with IXO. After I finish the Porsche, I'm going for the Willys Jeep. I'm a WWII historian because of my Father's involvement during the war. He was a top turret gunner on a B-24 Bomber and was shot down over Germany and was a POW for 15 months.

Bosco

[Schummie]

Some pictures of my progress last week.

 

All tube parts for the nose polished and ready to install.

 

 

The reservoirs installed and nicely in line. The lids also in place.

 

 

According the manual the bottom parts of the frame is to be glued. It looks that it was origianally intended to bolt in place. Ther is a hole in the tube part, and also a hole through the frame where the parts is to be glued on.

I treated the hole on the part.

 

 

By using these bolts, I can acces this from the side with a micro wrench.

 

 

 

Firmly in place. A much better connection than glued I think.

 

 

The rest of the frame in place and testfitted. Beware to install the top part under, and not on top of the brackets.

When you do this, it looks fine, but when you later place the nose, you will discover that the nose cone doesn't fit at all.

How I know......??

 

 

 

The final result.

 

 

 

I make the nose removable. To make this possible you have to clean the bottom part of the nose from all parts and make it smooth.

 

 

 

The upper part installed to the bottom part.

 

 

 

 

 

To prevent the window from breaking, I left it in the sprue when installing. After drying I will remove the sprue.

 

 

 

Boiled the tires and installed them on the rims. After coolin they are hard again and firmly on the rims. Used a long bolt to put the wheels in my electric drill to sand the tires and remove the seam in the middle.

 

 

 

On the real car, the air duct was connected after with a pair of springs.

 

 

 

Some left over FE sprue. Here during fabrication.

 

 

 

Finished and glued on the air duct.

 

 

 

After drilling some holes I put the rivits in. Not just optical. The top two ones are to prevent the bracket to break lose after the spring is connected under some tension.

The bottom, bigger one, is to connect the spring.

 

 

 

Untill next time. The end assembly is near I think.

 

[Griph]

On 13/05/2023 at 12:57, Bosco said:

Yes, it was me who had the problem with the front wheel frame alignment. And I think that's where the problem might be. At this point, ordering a new frame and trying to take everything apart just to fix this is out of the question. Like I said, I'm going to finish this model and most likely place it behind all my other models on display. After removing the assembly (that you won't see anyway) at the front, the alignment is almost undetected. Only experienced modelers would notice this. I just want to finish the Lotus and get back to the IXO Porsche 917 I'm building. Thank God, the Porsche doesn't require the amount of gluing parts together like the Lotus. We have seen parts in the Lotus required to glue together, plastic to metal, metal to metal, etc. At this point I will never again buy a model from Pocher. I think I'll stick with IXO. After I finish the Porsche, I'm going for the Willys Jeep. I'm a WWII historian because of my Father's involvement during the war. He was a top turret gunner on a B-24 Bomber and was shot down over Germany and was a POW for 15 months.

Bosco

Ah sorry Bosco, just seen your post.  Really sorry youve had problems, I am sure it has added a sour note to such an expensive model!  I can understand your dissatisfaction, and reticence to dismantling the front end! I too am doing the 917, and yes the reliance on glue for the 72D is not an issue for the 917 as all push fit or screwed!. 

[Griph]

On 13/05/2023 at 23:11, Schummie said:

Some pictures of my progress last week.

 

All tube parts for the nose polished and ready to install.

 

 

The reservoirs installed and nicely in line. The lids also in place.

 

 

According the manual the bottom parts of the frame is to be glued. It looks that it was origianally intended to bolt in place. Ther is a hole in the tube part, and also a hole through the frame where the parts is to be glued on.

I treated the hole on the part.

 

 

By using these bolts, I can acces this from the side with a micro wrench.

 

 

 

Firmly in place. A much better connection than glued I think.

 

 

The rest of the frame in place and testfitted. Beware to install the top part under, and not on top of the brackets.

When you do this, it looks fine, but when you later place the nose, you will discover that the nose cone doesn't fit at all.

How I know......??

 

 

 

The final result.

 

 

 

I make the nose removable. To make this possible you have to clean the bottom part of the nose from all parts and make it smooth.

 

 

 

The upper part installed to the bottom part.

 

 

 

 

 

To prevent the window from breaking, I left it in the sprue when installing. After drying I will remove the sprue.

 

 

 

Boiled the tires and installed them on the rims. After coolin they are hard again and firmly on the rims. Used a long bolt to put the wheels in my electric drill to sand the tires and remove the seam in the middle.

 

 

 

On the real car, the air duct was connected after with a pair of springs.

 

 

 

Some left over FE sprue. Here during fabrication.

 

 

 

Finished and glued on the air duct.

 

 

 

After drilling some holes I put the rivits in. Not just optical. The top two ones are to prevent the bracket to break lose after the spring is connected under some tension.

The bottom, bigger one, is to connect the spring.

 

Untill next time. The end assembly is near I think.

 

All great work Schummie, love the fixings for the 'Anvil' air scoop!  You did the same as me regarding the nose cone and the glass on the sprue!  I have been thinking of going back and cutting off the triangular metal end to the front of DCA-3 as this is no longer required however, as it is rarely seen it will probably stay as it is. 

[Schummie]

3 hours ago, Griph said:

All great work Schummie, love the fixings for the 'Anvil' air scoop!  You did the same as me regarding the nose cone and the glass on the sprue!  I have been thinking of going back and cutting off the triangular metal end to the front of DCA-3 as this is no longer required however, as it is rarely seen it will probably stay as it is. 

Thank you. I also left the triangular metal end in place, because I think it presses on the bottom part of the nose cone to keep it in place.

The nose cone now fits flush to the body. However with the fire extuinguisher in place, there is a small seam.

I finished the kit today and installed it on the display bottom.  I’ll post pictures of the end result in a few days.

 

[Roberto]

Great progress!

 

[Schummie]

After a building sprint, I finished the model today.

 

First some of the last mods I added. The tank cap painted in the color according to the reference pictures.

 

 

The fire extuinguisher completed with an aluminim bracket and two hoses connected to be sure it doesn't empty in the nose when the car is on fire.

 

 

The springs connected to the air intake.

 

 

Constructing the rear wing. Complicated because it remains ajustable. It will probably never be ajusted though.

 

 

The top part added. All parts fit very good.

 

 

 

And the very last parts robbed of the paint and polished.

 

 

 

The sprue removed from the cockpit window. Worked like a charm.

 

 

 

And a lot of pictures of the end result.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And some pictures inside.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And the very last picture. The model in it's display on it's place.  The display also an idea from this forum. Very nice fit. No glue, just interlocking and at less then 1 thirth of the price of the original.

 

 

 

With the mods I did, it came as close to the original als possible for me.

I want to thank all the contributers on this forum, as they paved the way for in pointing out the best way to put this kit together.

I feel that this is a wonderful kit. But you have to be experienced to get the max out of this kit.

It has a lot of potential to make it even better than out of the box.

It remains a compromise. Lots of the reference pictures are actually from relative recent restored cars which stll appear in historic events.

The kit is based on chassis 5, a wreck which wasn't restored when the haynes workshop manual saw the light of day. Also on chassis 7, the actual car. Not of 10 as the sign says, but 9 as one of the cars was modified and renumbered.
I hope these pictures can supply some inspiration if you've encountered some problems when constructing and push on.

The kit does have some flaws, but with te help of this topic, they are relatively easy to overcome.

As it is now, I didn't have to use costly after market stuff. Some micro nuts and bolts and some FE parts for the seatbelt and hose clamps.

In my opinon it shows the level of detail of the kit.

I think that when Hornby would use some pictures from this forum to make the manual more clear it would be of great help.

A last tip. The plastic washers you use when you place the model on the display base have different lengths. Its easy to use the wrong one. Yes, in the manual is the right part number, but no indication that the two differ.

I'm looking forward to the next Pocher car. Does anyone of you already know a bit more?

[cmatthewbacon]

Great job, @Schummie looks excellent, and well done on seeing the paint removal process through to the end…. It’s a really interesting and unique look. Great details as well. As for the next one, I’ll eat my hat if it isn’t James Hunt’s 1976 World Championship winning McLaren M23. The DFV is already done, and for those of us Brits of a certain vintage (with an inclination to build Pocher models) it’s the next most iconic F1 car and probably the most iconic driver of them all…

best,

M.

[Schummie]

11 hours ago, cmatthewbacon said:

Great job, @Schummie looks excellent, and well done on seeing the paint removal process through to the end…. It’s a really interesting and unique look. Great details as well. As for the next one, I’ll eat my hat if it isn’t James Hunt’s 1976 World Championship winning McLaren M23. The DFV is already done, and for those of us Brits of a certain vintage (with an inclination to build Pocher models) it’s the next most iconic F1 car and probably the most iconic driver of them all…

best,

M.

Thanks Matt,

I think you could be right. However, the 1976 runner-up, Niki Lauda in his Ferrari would also be a very nice option.

But looking at the development time of this Lotus 72 between the first indications and the actual appearance of the kit, I’m afraid we have to wait a few years.

Specially your pictures of your build helped me a lot avoiding problems and pointing out the best building sequence. Also your dash and wiring was very inspiring for me. 
From your number of posts I take it that you’re a very experienced builder.  Much less in my case. I do however have some experience in working with metal models, and how to make use of the real metal parts. 
And maybe that can give some idea to other builders to give this a try. Especially with this model you can archieve amazing results, with none to very little extra costs. 

 

[cmatthewbacon]

Thank you kindly @Schummie. Part of my reasoning behind the 1976 James Hunt car is that Hornby (which owns Pocher) clearly has a good relationship with McLaren. There’s a Scalextric MP4-12C and P1… and an M23; Airfix has a Quickbuild P1 and Speedtail, with a 765LT in 1/43 coming this year. Both of those are also Hornby brands… And Ferrari is notoriously difficult about licensing.

best,

M.

[BJAY]

On 1/20/2023 at 6:50 PM, KeithAnthony said:

Screws from Bolt Base https://boltbase.com/socket-screws-c2

 

Parts B1 & 2 were in a pack with air box in my kit. Were there two empty spaces?

Hi again I'm trying to work out which bolts to order from bolt base to use with the kit??  They seem to start at 1.6?? Can anyone help please?  many Thanks

 

[BJAY]

I also wondered the best place to buy tap and die set for use on this kit??  For background I have modelled Tamiya F1 1/12 scale in the past but finding this build a challenge  Thanks

[rjfk2002]

Paul Koo sells a tap set for the other modern Pocher kits (both Lambos and the Ducati bikes). You can see if those sizes work for this kit. I think he has a 1.6, 2.3 and 2.6. He sells through eBay. Marvin at Model Motorcars also sells taps. 

[JohnPlayerSpecial]

I have just started building mine, but seem to have parts missing, I have done the engine block went to start on the rear end axle and gearbox, but can't find any "K" parts in the box, I had K4 and K8 in little bags but can't find the rest. Any one know how to obtain missing parts... Thank you

 

It okay, panic over I have found them at the bottom of the box, and I searched there three times.

Edited May 23, 2023 by JohnPlayerSpecial
update

[cmatthewbacon]

I can’t remember exactly, but… I don’t think there are many K parts. You might be looking for a “sub-sprue” that’s moulded with one of the other black ones…

 

I went through all mine putting masking tape labels with letters written on them on all the moulded letter tags, which helps sort them out…

best,

M.

[JohnPlayerSpecial]

2 hours ago, cmatthewbacon said:

I can’t remember exactly, but… I don’t think there are many K parts. You might be looking for a “sub-sprue” that’s moulded with one of the other black ones…

 

I went through all mine putting masking tape labels with letters written on them on all the moulded letter tags, which helps sort them out…

best,

M.

Yes you are right, it's only a small sprue, but at least found it in the end, it was right at the bottom of the box and I looked through the box a few times, silly me!!! I put it down to my mature age.

I like your idea of labelling them. thanks. 

[JohnPlayerSpecial]

On 22/05/2023 at 15:19, BJAY said:

I also wondered the best place to buy tap and die set for use on this kit??  For background I have modelled Tamiya F1 1/12 scale in the past but finding this build a challenge  Thanks

I am using this set from Amazon Small Thread Taps，10Pcs Mini M1 to M3.5 Hand Tap Male Thread Metric Spine Taps Set Spiral Point Straight Flute : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

 

[Roberto]

Stunning work, beautiful result. Bravo!

[JohnPlayerSpecial]

Does anyone know the size of the green wire used for the electrics and where I can buy some? tank you.